Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:31 AM - Re: Rotax carb heaters (G-IANI)
2. 01:20 AM - Re: Rotax carb heaters (Peter Jeffers)
3. 01:52 AM - monowheel centre console bulkhead (Rowland Carson)
4. 01:52 AM - mono brake mounting (Rowland Carson)
5. 03:51 AM - For European/U K members .....attention. (Robert C Harrison)
6. 10:57 AM - Fuel pipes (Frank Mycroft)
7. 12:07 PM - Re: Fuel pipes (Jerry Rehn)
8. 12:11 PM - Re: Rotax carb heaters (ploucandco)
9. 01:18 PM - Re: Fuel pipes (Carl Pattinson)
10. 07:02 PM - Re: mono brake mounting (JohnDHeykoop@aol.com)
11. 07:20 PM - Re: monowheel centre console bulkhead (JohnDHeykoop@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Rotax carb heaters |
Ron
In 250 hour flown in the UK never any sign of carb ice and we have flown all
winter. So, as I have read elsewhere, no need for carb heaters. Same
experience with G-IRON.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 914, 250 hours
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 2
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Subject: | Rotax carb heaters |
Hi all,
Running a 912 (Classic Europa) for 1250 hrs in the often cold moist air of
the UK with no carb heater has resulted in a reasonably regular indication
of carb icing.
The thing to be aware of is that with the Rotax 900 series engines carb
icing manifests itself rather differently from your Continentals and
Lycomings.
In the case of Rotax it shows itself as the occasional cough or what seems
like misfire as each carb in turn ingests bits of ice shed from the throat.
When it happens (and nowadays I have become quite good at predicting it)the
solution is to warm the core temp of the engine by making it work hard for
two or three minutes. IE open the throttle to climb power. Depending on the
severity of the icing will determine how long it is before getting a
recurrence. I have found that even in moderate icing conditions a period of
at least 20 mins elapses before a need to re warm the engine.
Now to the Rotax carb heater which uses coolant water to warm the carb
throat. Inevitably this will only work effectively if the coolant temp is
kept high enough.
Quite often I have flown Rotax engined A/C where the coolant temp in cruise
drops to 55 or 60 degrees C. In icing conditions, even with a carb heater
installed and low coolant temps I have still encountered carb icing on a
number of occasions.
So to sum up avoidance of carb icing, with or without a heater, it is
essential to keep your coolant (and Oil) temps minimums up around the 90
degree area.
Pete Jeffers
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of G-IANI
Sent: 28 June 2008 08:27
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Rotax carb heaters
Ron
In 250 hour flown in the UK never any sign of carb ice and we have flown all
winter. So, as I have read elsewhere, no need for carb heaters. Same
experience with G-IRON.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 914, 250 hours
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
Checked by AVG.
11:20 AM
Message 3
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Subject: | monowheel centre console bulkhead |
I've just cut out the monowheel centre console bulkhead shape from 3mm ply.
[Incidentally I wish I'd left the flap lever cutout intact until
later - the flange layup would be much easier with that present.]
{And another thing - I wanted to print a spare copy of the template
so as to leave my build manual intact, but I can't find that page
(11-7) in any of the PDF copies. Eventually I scanned it and printed
a sacrificial copy from that - but does anyone know where the
template might be found in the PDF manuals?}
Anyway (before this gets too much like a Ronnie Corbet big chair
joke), what I really wanted to ask is about the installation of the
bulkhead, which acts as a "mudguard". I am looking at the
installation instructions and I can't see any reference to coating
the ply with resin, nor putting a layer of BID on the "outside" of it
(as is done with the inboard thigh support ribs which also face the
outside world).
Anyone see any reason why I shouldn't put a layer of BID on the
"weather" side of that bulkhead? I certainly don't want to leave a
raw piece of ply open to everything the wheel will throw up.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson@googlemail.com> http://home.clara.net/rowil/
Message 4
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Subject: | mono brake mounting |
The manual shows a measurement for positioning the monowheel brake
master cylinder which looks as though it might be made parallel to
the top corenr of the tunnel moulding. However, that would put one of
the mounting holes in a brown foam area which would obviously crush
when the mounting fastener was tightened. However, measuring
horizontally with the fuselage lying on the ground (instead of
slantwise along the top corner of the tunnel) puts both holes in a
plain resin area, which I feel confident is the correct location.
However, (since I can't rely on the picture on the manual) I'm
wondering about the angle at which the master cylinder is mounted.
Should it be parallel to the tunnel top, or should it be as near to
horizontal as possible (with the fuselage level), or should it be
horizontal in the tail-down attitude (to make bleeding easier)?
Any suggestions?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson@googlemail.com> http://home.clara.net/rowil/
Message 5
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Subject: | For European/U K members .....attention. |
Hi! ALL
It is Wickenby (EGNW) WINGS and WHEELS Event and Fly In this weekend ...
Saturday 28th and Sunday 29th June.
If you can please help a worthy cause and swell the numbers with a Fly In .
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
Message 6
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G-BWYD has fuel pipes which are rubber with a cotton and then a
stainless braid covering. They look great, as though they would last
for ever - but they don't! One of mine sprung a leak after I moved it a
bit and when I removed the stainless and then the cotton braids I found
that it was perished and split circumferentially in the place where it
was leaking. The pipes are obviously resistant to outside abrasion, but
you can't see what's happening inside and they plainly have a limited
life, at least inside the engine compartment. Mine had been in place
for 11 years.
What pipes do people recommend? Alloy pipes are great if installed
during the build, but not so easy for a retrofit. I have Aeroquip 303
from the tank to the electric pump, but the stuff with the stainless
braid from then on when the chances of outside abrasion are greater.
LAS don't seem to supply the stainless braid stuff. How do people
protect the Aeroquip pipe where it could suffer from outside abrasion.
Frank
Message 7
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Frank
Many of us are using auto grade fuel injection hose. It's tough and heavier
and designed for auto gas and deals with alcohol unlike milspec airplane
hose. They are very resistant to abrasion. It's a good practice to replace
all the rubber at least every 6 years. I think Europa has even a shorter
time frame.
Nice part is you can purchase it at most auto supply houses.
Jerry
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frank Mycroft
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 10:54 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel pipes
G-BWYD has fuel pipes which are rubber with a cotton and then a stainless
braid covering. They look great, as though they would last for ever - but
they don't! One of mine sprung a leak after I moved it a bit and when I
removed the stainless and then the cotton braids I found that it was
perished and split circumferentially in the place where it was leaking. The
pipes are obviously resistant to outside abrasion, but you can't see what's
happening inside and they plainly have a limited life, at least inside the
engine compartment. Mine had been in place for 11 years.
What pipes do people recommend? Alloy pipes are great if installed during
the build, but not so easy for a retrofit. I have Aeroquip 303 from the
tank to the electric pump, but the stuff with the stainless braid from then
on when the chances of outside abrasion are greater. LAS don't seem to
supply the stainless braid stuff. How do people protect the Aeroquip pipe
where it could suffer from outside abrasion.
Frank
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Rotax carb heaters |
Hi Ron, Ian,
Concerning the 914, the following documents section 18 is interesting:
http://www.rotax-owner.com/support/UNDERSTANDING%20THE%20914%20ROTAX.pdf
All depends if you have an intercooler or not.
Jacques.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190261#190261
Message 9
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Funny you should say that.
I have today replaced all my braided hose for the newer stuff from the
factory Which dosent have the protective sheath), because my inspector
pretty much said the same about the old style Europa hose as you have -
ie: looks great but not fit for purpose.
Cant say I noticed anything wrong with the old stuff (5yrs old), but
clearly it dosent age well.
Dont really see the need for metal braided covering if the hoses are
secured properly. Even braid will wear if not secured properly.
I think its fair to say that aircraft quality hose probably wont do the
job if you are usiing mogas as it appears to be more aggressive towards
unsuitable hose. Probably best to use racing spec stuff as racing fuels
can contain a lot of alcohol/ethanol - presumably the hose can cope with
that.
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Mycroft
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 6:54 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel pipes
G-BWYD has fuel pipes which are rubber with a cotton and then a
stainless braid covering. They look great, as though they would last
for ever - but they don't! One of mine sprung a leak after I moved it a
bit and when I removed the stainless and then the cotton braids I found
that it was perished and split circumferentially in the place where it
was leaking. The pipes are obviously resistant to outside abrasion, but
you can't see what's happening inside and they plainly have a limited
life, at least inside the engine compartment. Mine had been in place
for 11 years.
What pipes do people recommend? Alloy pipes are great if installed
during the build, but not so easy for a retrofit. I have Aeroquip 303
from the tank to the electric pump, but the stuff with the stainless
braid from then on when the chances of outside abrasion are greater.
LAS don't seem to supply the stainless braid stuff. How do people
protect the Aeroquip pipe where it could suffer from outside abrasion.
Frank
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: mono brake mounting |
Rowland
There is a metal insert in the tunnel wall (the area you call the "plain
resin area"). The mounting holes need to go in this area, parallel to the top
of
the tunnel as shown in the illustration.
John Heykoop
XS mono G-JHKP
In a message dated 28/06/2008 09:52:40 GMT Standard Time,
rowlandcarson@googlemail.com writes:
The manual shows a measurement for positioning the monowheel brake
master cylinder which looks as though it might be made parallel to
the top corenr of the tunnel moulding. However, that would put one of
the mounting holes in a brown foam area which would obviously crush
when the mounting fastener was tightened. However, measuring
horizontally with the fuselage lying on the ground (instead of
slantwise along the top corner of the tunnel) puts both holes in a
plain resin area, which I feel confident is the correct location.
However, (since I can't rely on the picture on the manual) I'm
wondering about the angle at which the master cylinder is mounted.
Should it be parallel to the tunnel top, or should it be as near to
horizontal as possible (with the fuselage level), or should it be
horizontal in the tail-down attitude (to make bleeding easier)?
Any suggestions?
regards
Rowland
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: monowheel centre console bulkhead |
Rowland
As you work your way through the manual you will find that it gets less and
less detailed, because it is assumed that having been told once, we can now
work out for ourselves what would be good practice.
The "mudguard" will have to cope not just with mud, but also with stones and
other debris thrown up by the main wheel. Adding a ply of "bid" will protect
it.
John Heykoop
XS mono G-JHKP
In a message dated 28/06/2008 09:52:42 GMT Standard Time,
rowlandcarson@googlemail.com writes:
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson
<rowlandcarson@googlemail.com>
I've just cut out the monowheel centre console bulkhead shape from 3mm ply.
[Incidentally I wish I'd left the flap lever cutout intact until
later - the flange layup would be much easier with that present.]
{And another thing - I wanted to print a spare copy of the template
so as to leave my build manual intact, but I can't find that page
(11-7) in any of the PDF copies. Eventually I scanned it and printed
a sacrificial copy from that - but does anyone know where the
template might be found in the PDF manuals?}
Anyway (before this gets too much like a Ronnie Corbet big chair
joke), what I really wanted to ask is about the installation of the
bulkhead, which acts as a "mudguard". I am looking at the
installation instructions and I can't see any reference to coating
the ply with resin, nor putting a layer of BID on the "outside" of it
(as is done with the inboard thigh support ribs which also face the
outside world).
Anyone see any reason why I shouldn't put a layer of BID on the
"weather" side of that bulkhead? I certainly don't want to leave a
raw piece of ply open to everything the wheel will throw up.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson@googlemail.com> http://home.clara.net/rowil/
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