Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:24 AM - Re: Coolant Temps. (G-IANI)
2. 01:35 AM - mod 59 (Herve)
3. 05:08 AM - Re: mod 59 (craig bastin)
4. 05:43 AM - Re: Coolant Temps. (Karl Heindl)
5. 06:56 AM - Re: Coolant Temps. (ALAN YERLY)
6. 09:35 AM - Thanks for all the replies Re:- Mod 66 Reposition of door Gas struts. (Robert C Harrison)
7. 12:47 PM - Re: Coolant Temps. (Karl Heindl)
8. 02:13 PM - Re: Coolant Temps. (ALAN YERLY)
9. 02:35 PM - Re: Coolant Temps. (Gilles Thesee)
10. 03:19 PM - Re: Coolant Temps. (Karl Heindl)
11. 04:40 PM - Re: Coolant Temps. (Graham Singleton)
12. 05:41 PM - A question on composits (Rman)
13. 06:26 PM - Re: A question on composits (Paul McAllister)
14. 06:46 PM - Re: Coolant Temps. (Karl Heindl)
15. 07:17 PM - Re: Coolant Temps. (Michael Grass)
Message 1
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Are you sure that this behaviour is new? I would normally expect the ground
temp to be higher due to the limited airflow but the oil has not had time to
warm up fully. Climbing temps would be higher due to the engine working
hard and thus raising the head temperatures and so the coolant.
Although not relevant to you problem are you going to change to the 1.2 bar
cap.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 200 hours
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
Sent: 01 July 2008 22:07
Subject: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
After changing all coolant hoses and coolant 50/50 I am now getting much
higher coolant temperatures while taxiing and climbing, typically 25 C above
the oil temperature. In the cruise the temperatures are all within 2 degrees
of each other. I don't think I had this problem before. The radiator sits in
front of the oil cooler. What could be the problem ? The pressure cap is .9
bar.
Any suggestions ?
Karl
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Hello
I am trying to do mod 59 (nose wheel shimmy damper) and I am a little
confuse as to what is what and goes where.Has anyone got some
pictures to explain?
G.CHET europa xs turbo
Herve
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Yes i have done it. It is quite simple
undo the nut from the top of the shaft that holds the nose wheel fork
remove the fork and all the washers, spacers etc, THE PIN, and in the kit
you will find the small steel ring about 1.5mm thick that will slide
onto the shaft of the nose wheel fork, slide the whole thing
back into gear leg without anything else on there, just the small ring from
the kit
then put the big ring from the kit on top of the gear leg and a couple of
washers on top of the ring
then a half inch nut, there SHOULD be a gap under the washers. tighten up
the nut until the
flat plates on the top of the nose wheel and the bottom of the gear leg
touch. This should have the
small steel ring inside the bottom of the gear leg. Then remove the nut and
washers, remove the
nose wheel and the two steel rings (which you no longer need), At this point
the inner sleve
may be sticking up out the top of the gear leg, if so, cut/file it off till
it's nice and flush.
put the whole thing back together but this time put the rubber o-ring on top
of the shimmy plate, so
when you slide the nose wheel back into the leg it will be inside the bottom
of the gear leg (where the small steel ring was)
then put the washers (new bigger ones from the kit) plus 4 of the old ones
on the top with your Castelated Nut (the one with the slots cut in it)
on and re-set the tension as per the manual
Just so you know, My gear leg already had space for the o-ring in the
bottom, so maybe you can just fit the o-ring.
hope this helps you, sorry i dont have any pictures, I did it as part of the
build and it took about 30 seconds
regards
craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Herve
Sent: Wednesday, 2 July 2008 6:32 PM
Subject: Europa-List: mod 59
Hello
I am trying to do mod 59 (nose wheel shimmy damper) and I am a little
confuse as to what is what and goes where.Has anyone got some
pictures to explain?
G.CHET europa xs turbo
Herve
Checked by AVG.
7:23 PM
Checked by AVG.
7:23 PM
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Ian=2C
I am not 100% sure as I hadn't flown for a long time. But on a hot day in t
he climb my warning light used to come
on because of hot OIL. The coolant radiator gets most of the incoming air
=2C and the oil cooler gets pre-heated air.
What was the reason again for changing to the 1.2 bar cap ?
What temperature differentials for coolant/oil are you getting ?
Karl <html><div></div>
From: g-iani@ntlworld.comTo: europa-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: Europa-L
ist: Coolant Temps.Date: Wed=2C 2 Jul 2008 09:20:48 +0100
Are you sure that this behaviour is new? I would normally expect the groun
d temp to be higher due to the limited airflow but the oil has not had time
to warm up fully. Climbing temps would be higher due to the engine workin
g hard and thus raising the head temperatures and so the coolant.
Although not relevant to you problem are you going to change to the 1.2 bar
cap.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear=2C 200 hoursEuropa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)e-m
ail mods@europaclub.org.uk or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl HeindlSent: 01 July 2008 22:07To: europ
a-list@matronics.comSubject: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
After changing all coolant hoses and coolant 50/50 I am now getting much h
igher coolant temperatures while taxiing and climbing=2C typically 25 C abo
ve the oil temperature. In the cruise the temperatures are all within 2 deg
rees of each other. I don't think I had this problem before. The radiator s
its in front of the oil cooler. What could be the problem ? The pressure ca
p is .9 bar.Any suggestions ?Karl <html><div></div>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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Subject: | Re: Coolant Temps. |
Karl,
Sounds to me like the duct sealing may have been compromised.
Another culprit can be the hose running from the top expansion tank to
the radiator. Sometimes that bend gets pinched a little.
I don't know what engine you have, but my experience here in Florida
with the XS cowl and Rotax engines follows:
1. Lower the oil cooler as far down as you can get it. Typically 1.5
inches is easily attained. That lowers oil temps nearly 15 degrees.
2. Make sure the cowl seal rubber is doing its job to include around
the top front of the duct. Any high pressure air getting from the lower
duct into the cowl cuts cooling. The engine is partially air cooled
also.
3. Seal the gaps on the side and below the oil cooler. The duct works
best when entering air stacks up and slows down in front of the coolers
so as to get efficient heat transfer. I bend a piece of stainless which
I attach to the oil cooler bottom and bend it to make a nice tight seal
underneath also. When taxiing, that really makes a difference. I also
continue the seal back to the cowl exit.
Other techniques:
4. For info only, I run 70/30 Dexcool which doesn't boil until 276F vs.
265F for 50/50.
5. Taxi with coarse pitch to get more air in the duct.
If you have a mono, I do a number of other mods too numerous to email
about.
Bud
Custom Flight Creations
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl<mailto:kheindl@msn.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 5:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
After changing all coolant hoses and coolant 50/50 I am now getting
much higher coolant temperatures while taxiing and climbing, typically
25 C above the oil temperature. In the cruise the temperatures are all
within 2 degrees of each other. I don't think I had this problem before.
The radiator sits in front of the oil cooler. What could be the problem
? The pressure cap is .9 bar.
Any suggestions ?
Karl
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Subject: | Thanks for all the replies re:- Mod 66 Reposition of door |
Gas struts.
Hi! What a great forum we have.
Thanks to all associated with the many replies to my request for
guidance as
to what now appears to be Mod. 66.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
Do not archive.
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Hi Bud=2C
Thanks for your recommendations. I am only concerned because I don't recall
a coolant problem from previous years.
I did make anumber of changes to the way the air flows over the engine (Iha
ve a trigear 912S)=2C but they should all
help with the cooling and reduction of drag:
1) I cut back the aluminum duct tail end to the radiator and this is the ma
in air outlet to the bottom of the fuselage.
2) I sealed the gills.
3) I taped over the main stbd Naca duct.
4) I closed the outboard 60% of the two round inlets. I don't see the point
of cooling the exhaust pipes.
5) I closed the gap between the round baffle inlet and the baffle.
6) I reduced the height of the main inlet by about 30mm=2C streamlined the
interior of the duct=2C and made sure that
there are no more gaps either at the front or around the radiators.
7) The radiators are mounted just as you described.
8) The hoses all have a smooth run=2C and the two main ones to the radiato
r are silicone and preshaped.
In essence=2C I have reduced the cowl openings by 50% and doubled the exit
openings.
The performance improvement in the cruise is considerable. The temperature
under the top cowling is around
15 degrees C above oat.
I see your note about coolant mixture=2C and that concurs with a note in
the Rotax handbook. I think I will try that
and maybe change the pressure cap to 1.2 bar.
Karl<html><div></div>
From: budyerly@msn.comTo: europa-list@matronics.comSubject: Re: Europa-List
: Coolant Temps.Date: Wed=2C 2 Jul 2008 09:53:38 -0400
Karl=2C
Sounds to me like the duct sealing may have been compromised.
Another culprit can be the hose running from the top expansion tank to the
radiator. Sometimes that bend gets pinched a little.
I don't know what engine you have=2C but my experience here in Florida with
the XS cowl and Rotax engines follows:
1. Lower the oil cooler as far down as you can get it. Typically 1.5 inch
es is easily attained. That lowers oil temps nearly 15 degrees.
2. Make sure the cowl seal rubber is doing its job to include around the t
op front of the duct. Any high pressure air getting from the lower duct in
to the cowl cuts cooling. The engine is partially air cooled also.
3. Seal the gaps on the side and below the oil cooler. The duct works bes
t when entering air stacks up and slows down in front of the coolers so as
to get efficient heat transfer. I bend a piece of stainless which I attach
to the oil cooler bottom and bend it to make a nice tight seal underneath
also. When taxiing=2C that really makes a difference. I also continue the
seal back to the cowl exit.
Other techniques:
4. For info only=2C I run 70/30 Dexcool which doesn't boil until 276F vs.
265F for 50/50.
5. Taxi with coarse pitch to get more air in the duct.
If you have a mono=2C I do a number of other mods too numerous to email abo
ut.
Bud
Custom Flight Creations
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl
Sent: Tuesday=2C July 01=2C 2008 5:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
After changing all coolant hoses and coolant 50/50 I am now getting much h
igher coolant temperatures while taxiing and climbing=2C typically 25 C abo
ve the oil temperature. In the cruise the temperatures are all within 2 deg
rees of each other. I don't think I had this problem before. The radiator s
its in front of the oil cooler. What could be the problem ? The pressure ca
p is .9 bar.Any suggestions ?Karl <html><div></div>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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Subject: | Re: Coolant Temps. |
Careful on the 1.2 bar cap. The reduction in boiling over with the
extra pressure is not worth the potential for leaking hoses. Unless you
replaced all the spring clamps with worm clamps, I would not do that.
As for the inlets, I leave mine the size they are due to ground cooling.
It's a trade off.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl<mailto:kheindl@msn.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 3:43 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
Hi Bud,
Thanks for your recommendations. I am only concerned because I don't
recall a coolant problem from previous years.
I did make anumber of changes to the way the air flows over the engine
(Ihave a trigear 912S), but they should all
help with the cooling and reduction of drag:
1) I cut back the aluminum duct tail end to the radiator and this is
the main air outlet to the bottom of the fuselage.
2) I sealed the gills.
3) I taped over the main stbd Naca duct.
4) I closed the outboard 60% of the two round inlets. I don't see the
point of cooling the exhaust pipes.
5) I closed the gap between the round baffle inlet and the baffle.
6) I reduced the height of the main inlet by about 30mm, streamlined
the interior of the duct, and made sure that
there are no more gaps either at the front or around the
radiators.
7) The radiators are mounted just as you described.
8) The hoses all have a smooth run, and the two main ones to the
radiator are silicone and preshaped.
In essence, I have reduced the cowl openings by 50% and doubled the
exit openings.
The performance improvement in the cruise is considerable. The
temperature under the top cowling is around
15 degrees C above oat.
I see your note about coolant mixture, and that concurs with a note
in the Rotax handbook. I think I will try that
and maybe change the pressure cap to 1.2 bar.
Karl
<html><div></div>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: budyerly@msn.com
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 09:53:38 -0400
Karl,
Sounds to me like the duct sealing may have been compromised.
Another culprit can be the hose running from the top expansion tank to
the radiator. Sometimes that bend gets pinched a little.
I don't know what engine you have, but my experience here in Florida
with the XS cowl and Rotax engines follows:
1. Lower the oil cooler as far down as you can get it. Typically 1.5
inches is easily attained. That lowers oil temps nearly 15 degrees.
2. Make sure the cowl seal rubber is doing its job to include around
the top front of the duct. Any high pressure air getting from the lower
duct into the cowl cuts cooling. The engine is partially air cooled
also.
3. Seal the gaps on the side and below the oil cooler. The duct
works best when entering air stacks up and slows down in front of the
coolers so as to get efficient heat transfer. I bend a piece of
stainless which I attach to the oil cooler bottom and bend it to make a
nice tight seal underneath also. When taxiing, that really makes a
difference. I also continue the seal back to the cowl exit.
Other techniques:
4. For info only, I run 70/30 Dexcool which doesn't boil until 276F
vs. 265F for 50/50.
5. Taxi with coarse pitch to get more air in the duct.
If you have a mono, I do a number of other mods too numerous to email
about.
Bud
Custom Flight Creations
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl<mailto:kheindl@msn.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 5:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
After changing all coolant hoses and coolant 50/50 I am now getting
much higher coolant temperatures while taxiing and climbing, typically
25 C above the oil temperature. In the cruise the temperatures are all
within 2 degrees of each other. I don't think I had this problem before.
The radiator sits in front of the oil cooler. What could be the problem
? The pressure cap is .9 bar.
Any suggestions ?
Karl
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Subject: | Re: Coolant Temps. |
ALAN YERLY a crit :
> Careful on the 1.2 bar cap. The reduction in boiling over with the
> extra pressure is not worth the potential for leaking hoses. Unless
> you replaced all the spring clamps with worm clamps, I would not do that.
Alan,
No problem whatsoever with the hose spring clamps and 1.2 bar cap.
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
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Thank you. I'll go easy on that. But changing the cap back is easy. I am ch
anging all clamps again to narrow stainless worm clamps=2C and I am also ch
anging the hoses to the cylinders to a smaller i.d. silicone for a tight fi
t (next week).
I see on the glycol container that the 50/50 mix boils at 129 C=2C and the
70/30 at 135. So that is a guide for setting my limit on my EIS warning lig
ht.
Karl<html><div></div>
From: budyerly@msn.comTo: europa-list@matronics.comSubject: Re: Europa-List
: Coolant Temps.Date: Wed=2C 2 Jul 2008 17:09:48 -0400
Careful on the 1.2 bar cap. The reduction in boiling over with the extra p
ressure is not worth the potential for leaking hoses. Unless you replaced
all the spring clamps with worm clamps=2C I would not do that.
As for the inlets=2C I leave mine the size they are due to ground cooling.
It's a trade off.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl
Sent: Wednesday=2C July 02=2C 2008 3:43 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
Hi Bud=2C Thanks for your recommendations. I am only concerned because I do
n't recall a coolant problem from previous years.I did make anumber of chan
ges to the way the air flows over the engine (Ihave a trigear 912S)=2C but
they should all help with the cooling and reduction of drag:1) I cut back t
he aluminum duct tail end to the radiator and this is the main air outlet t
o the bottom of the fuselage.2) I sealed the gills.3) I taped over the main
stbd Naca duct.4) I closed the outboard 60% of the two round inlets. I don
't see the point of cooling the exhaust pipes.5) I closed the gap between t
he round baffle inlet and the baffle.6) I reduced the height of the main in
let by about 30mm=2C streamlined the interior of the duct=2C and made sure
that there are no more gaps either at the front or around the radiator
s.7) The radiators are mounted just as you described.8) The hoses all hav
e a smooth run=2C and the two main ones to the radiator are silicone and pr
eshaped. In essence=2C I have reduced the cowl openings by 50% and doubled
the exit openings.The performance improvement in the cruise is considerable
. The temperature under the top cowling is around15 degrees C above oat.I s
ee your note about coolant mixture=2C and that concurs with a note in the
Rotax handbook. I think I will try thatand maybe change the pressure cap
to 1.2 bar. Karl<html><div></div>
From: budyerly@msn.comTo: europa-list@matronics.comSubject: Re: Europa-List
: Coolant Temps.Date: Wed=2C 2 Jul 2008 09:53:38 -0400
Karl=2C
Sounds to me like the duct sealing may have been compromised.
Another culprit can be the hose running from the top expansion tank to the
radiator. Sometimes that bend gets pinched a little.
I don't know what engine you have=2C but my experience here in Florida with
the XS cowl and Rotax engines follows:
1. Lower the oil cooler as far down as you can get it. Typically 1.5 inch
es is easily attained. That lowers oil temps nearly 15 degrees.
2. Make sure the cowl seal rubber is doing its job to include around the t
op front of the duct. Any high pressure air getting from the lower duct in
to the cowl cuts cooling. The engine is partially air cooled also.
3. Seal the gaps on the side and below the oil cooler. The duct works bes
t when entering air stacks up and slows down in front of the coolers so as
to get efficient heat transfer. I bend a piece of stainless which I attach
to the oil cooler bottom and bend it to make a nice tight seal underneath
also. When taxiing=2C that really makes a difference. I also continue the
seal back to the cowl exit.
Other techniques:
4. For info only=2C I run 70/30 Dexcool which doesn't boil until 276F vs.
265F for 50/50.
5. Taxi with coarse pitch to get more air in the duct.
If you have a mono=2C I do a number of other mods too numerous to email abo
ut.
Bud
Custom Flight Creations
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl
Sent: Tuesday=2C July 01=2C 2008 5:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
After changing all coolant hoses and coolant 50/50 I am now getting much h
igher coolant temperatures while taxiing and climbing=2C typically 25 C abo
ve the oil temperature. In the cruise the temperatures are all within 2 deg
rees of each other. I don't think I had this problem before. The radiator s
its in front of the oil cooler. What could be the problem ? The pressure ca
p is .9 bar.Any suggestions ?Karl <html><div></div>
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Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Coolant Temps. |
Problem with worm clamps is that when the hose gets hot, around 150C,
which it can do with radiant heat, the hose softens and under pressure
will pull out from under a worm clip. I suspect that is why Rotax
changed to spring clamps after my accident.
The accident was caused by a hose pulling out and filling the cowling
with vapour. Unfortunately the engine didn't stop and make the correct
decision for me, (accept a controlled crash)
Graham
ALAN YERLY wrote:
> Careful on the 1.2 bar cap. The reduction in boiling over with the
> extra pressure is not worth the potential for leaking hoses. Unless
> you replaced all the spring clamps with worm clamps, I would not do
> that.
>
> As for the inlets, I leave mine the size they are due to ground
> cooling. It's a trade off.
>
> Bud
>
Message 12
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Subject: | A question on composits |
Fellow Europaphiles,
As some of you know, after seeing a modified Europa cowl at Sun'n'fun, I
decided to take on the job of redesigning my cowl, to see what I could
gain. I've successfully made a mold from my current cowl, and want to
make a new cowl. One that I can cut up and modify. My question is,
what is the best cloth and resin to use to build the cowl? Any ideas on
what is used in the stock Europa cowl and how many layers of cloth are
used? I considering having a new exhaust system designed and built to
save space and weight. I will probably be moving the coolers to
accommodate the new exhaust. I've just got this nagging idea, in my
head that a well designed cowl will improve cooling, air speed, weight
and appearance. Am I wrong?: :)
Jeff - Baby Blue - Looking at getting a nose job... ;)
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: A question on composits |
Hi Jeff,
Would you happen to have any photographs of the cowl design that your
trying to build ?
Thanks, Paul
Message 14
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Graham=2C
You have a point there=2C but don't all Europa Rotaxes have worm clamps for
the thick hoses from the radiator=2C plus a few more when the Skydrive kit
is installed ?
Karl<html><div></div>> Date: Thu=2C 3 Jul 2008 00:38:23 +0100> From:
grahamsingleton@btinternet.com> To: europa-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re
Singleton <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>> > Problem with worm clamps is t
hat when the hose gets hot=2C around 150C=2C > which it can do with radiant
heat=2C the hose softens and under pressure > will pull out from under a w
orm clip. I suspect that is why Rotax > changed to spring clamps after my a
ccident.> The accident was caused by a hose pulling out and filling the cow
ling > with vapour. Unfortunately the engine didn't stop and make the corre
ct > decision for me=2C (accept a controlled crash)> Graham> > > ALAN YERLY
wrote:> > Careful on the 1.2 bar cap. The reduction in boiling over with t
he > > extra pressure is not worth the potential for leaking hoses. Unless
> > you replaced all the spring clamps with worm clamps=2C I would not do >
> that. > > > > As for the inlets=2C I leave mine the size they are due to
> > >
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Coolant Temps. |
Karl,
Have a look at this link.
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1020
It explains very much why a worm clamp is the worst choice for hoses
which experience big temperature changes.
Spring clamps are in my opinion the best readily available choice but
must be carefully selected for the right clamping size. The polymeric
type mentioned in this article might be a great system but I am not sure
if easily available and if we could easily apply them in our application
so the spring type will get my first vote.
Michael Grass
A266 TriGear
Detroit
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: 2008-07-02 18:16
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
Thank you. I'll go easy on that. But changing the cap back is easy. I
am changing all clamps again to narrow stainless worm clamps, and I am
also changing the hoses to the cylinders to a smaller i.d. silicone for
a tight fit (next week).
I see on the glycol container that the 50/50 mix boils at 129 C, and
the 70/30 at 135. So that is a guide for setting my limit on my EIS
warning light.
Karl
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From: budyerly@msn.com
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 17:09:48 -0400
Careful on the 1.2 bar cap. The reduction in boiling over with the
extra pressure is not worth the potential for leaking hoses. Unless you
replaced all the spring clamps with worm clamps, I would not do that.
As for the inlets, I leave mine the size they are due to ground
cooling. It's a trade off.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 3:43 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
Hi Bud,
Thanks for your recommendations. I am only concerned because I don't
recall a coolant problem from previous years.
I did make anumber of changes to the way the air flows over the
engine (Ihave a trigear 912S), but they should all
help with the cooling and reduction of drag:
1) I cut back the aluminum duct tail end to the radiator and this is
the main air outlet to the bottom of the fuselage.
2) I sealed the gills.
3) I taped over the main stbd Naca duct.
4) I closed the outboard 60% of the two round inlets. I don't see
the point of cooling the exhaust pipes.
5) I closed the gap between the round baffle inlet and the baffle.
6) I reduced the height of the main inlet by about 30mm, streamlined
the interior of the duct, and made sure that
there are no more gaps either at the front or around the
radiators.
7) The radiators are mounted just as you described.
8) The hoses all have a smooth run, and the two main ones to the
radiator are silicone and preshaped.
In essence, I have reduced the cowl openings by 50% and doubled the
exit openings.
The performance improvement in the cruise is considerable. The
temperature under the top cowling is around
15 degrees C above oat.
I see your note about coolant mixture, and that concurs with a
note in the Rotax handbook. I think I will try that
and maybe change the pressure cap to 1.2 bar.
Karl
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From: budyerly@msn.com
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 09:53:38 -0400
Karl,
Sounds to me like the duct sealing may have been compromised.
Another culprit can be the hose running from the top expansion tank
to the radiator. Sometimes that bend gets pinched a little.
I don't know what engine you have, but my experience here in Florida
with the XS cowl and Rotax engines follows:
1. Lower the oil cooler as far down as you can get it. Typically
1.5 inches is easily attained. That lowers oil temps nearly 15 degrees.
2. Make sure the cowl seal rubber is doing its job to include
around the top front of the duct. Any high pressure air getting from
the lower duct into the cowl cuts cooling. The engine is partially air
cooled also.
3. Seal the gaps on the side and below the oil cooler. The duct
works best when entering air stacks up and slows down in front of the
coolers so as to get efficient heat transfer. I bend a piece of
stainless which I attach to the oil cooler bottom and bend it to make a
nice tight seal underneath also. When taxiing, that really makes a
difference. I also continue the seal back to the cowl exit.
Other techniques:
4. For info only, I run 70/30 Dexcool which doesn't boil until 276F
vs. 265F for 50/50.
5. Taxi with coarse pitch to get more air in the duct.
If you have a mono, I do a number of other mods too numerous to
email about.
Bud
Custom Flight Creations
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 5:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Coolant Temps.
After changing all coolant hoses and coolant 50/50 I am now
getting much higher coolant temperatures while taxiing and climbing,
typically 25 C above the oil temperature. In the cruise the temperatures
are all within 2 degrees of each other. I don't think I had this problem
before. The radiator sits in front of the oil cooler. What could be the
problem ? The pressure cap is .9 bar.
Any suggestions ?
Karl
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