Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:27 AM - Re: Coolant Temps. (Graham Singleton)
2. 03:13 AM - Fw: Re: mod 59 (Herve)
3. 03:24 AM - Fw: Re: mod 59 (Herve)
4. 03:32 AM - Fw: Re: mod 59 (Herve)
5. 04:16 AM - Re: Coolant Temps. (Karl Heindl)
6. 04:45 AM - Rotax fly in & factory tour (conrad)
7. 06:54 AM - Re: Coolant Temps. (Graham Singleton)
8. 07:17 AM - Re: mono brake mounting (Rowland Carson)
9. 07:40 AM - Re: A question on composits (Jeff B)
10. 08:18 AM - Re: mono brake mounting (Robert Borger)
11. 11:51 AM - cowlings (david miller)
12. 01:37 PM - Cooling & Cowling (JEFF ROBERTS)
13. 01:52 PM - Re: Cooling & Cowling (Jeff B)
14. 02:37 PM - Re: A question on composits (karelvranken)
15. 02:37 PM - Re: mono brake mounting (karelvranken)
16. 02:37 PM - Re: Gas Strut door location lug. (karelvranken)
17. 02:53 PM - Re: Cooling & Cowling (Brian Davies)
18. 03:14 PM - Re: Cooling & Cowling (Graham Singleton)
19. 03:36 PM - Re: Cooling & Cowling (karelvranken)
20. 03:47 PM - Re: A question on composits (Paul McAllister)
21. 03:51 PM - Where to get the Rotax 914 TLR Software? (darinh)
22. 04:03 PM - Fw: Carb Heat on Rotax engines: LAA Policy (William Harrison)
23. 04:13 PM - Re: A question on composits (Jeff B)
24. 04:27 PM - Re: Where to get the Rotax 914 TLR Software? (conrad)
25. 04:36 PM - Re: A question on composits (karelvranken)
26. 04:37 PM - Re: Where to get the Rotax 914 TLR Software? (darinh)
27. 05:07 PM - Re: Cooling & Cowling (JEFF ROBERTS)
28. 10:16 PM - Re: A question on composits (Fred Klein)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant Temps. |
Karl Heindl wrote:
> Graham,
>
> You have a point there, but don't all Europa Rotaxes have worm clamps
> for the thick hoses from the radiator, plus a few more when the
> Skydrive kit is installed ?
>
> Karl
Karl
you are right but all the hoses Rotax fit on the engine now have clips.
It was a Europa factory molded hose that let go on me. Those hoses are
fiber reinforced elastomer whereas the Rotax ones are cloth reinforced.
Graham
Message 2
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>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>Subject: Fwd: RE: Europa-List: mod 59
>
>Hi Craig
>Thank you very much for your advise.Will have a go this week end.You
>wouldn't be close to leicester?
>Regards
>Herve
>
>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>>Subject: Fwd: RE: Europa-List: mod 59
>>
>>
>>>From: "craig bastin" <craigb@onthenet.com.au>
>>>To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: RE: Europa-List: mod 59
>>>Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 22:09:56 +1000
>>>Sender: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
>>>X-Antivirus: AVG for E-mail 7.5.524 [270.4.3/1529]
>>>
>>>
>>>Yes i have done it. It is quite simple
>>>undo the nut from the top of the shaft that holds the nose wheel fork
>>>remove the fork and all the washers, spacers etc, THE PIN, and in the kit
>>>you will find the small steel ring about 1.5mm thick that will slide
>>>onto the shaft of the nose wheel fork, slide the whole thing
>>>back into gear leg without anything else on there, just the small ring from
>>>the kit
>>>then put the big ring from the kit on top of the gear leg and a couple of
>>>washers on top of the ring
>>>then a half inch nut, there SHOULD be a gap under the washers. tighten up
>>>the nut until the
>>>flat plates on the top of the nose wheel and the bottom of the gear leg
>>>touch. This should have the
>>>small steel ring inside the bottom of the gear leg. Then remove the nut and
>>>washers, remove the
>>>nose wheel and the two steel rings (which you no longer need), At this point
>>>the inner sleve
>>>may be sticking up out the top of the gear leg, if so, cut/file it off till
>>>it's nice and flush.
>>>put the whole thing back together but this time put the rubber o-ring on top
>>>of the shimmy plate, so
>>>when you slide the nose wheel back into the leg it will be inside the bottom
>>>of the gear leg (where the small steel ring was)
>>>then put the washers (new bigger ones from the kit) plus 4 of the old ones
>>>on the top with your Castelated Nut (the one with the slots cut in it)
>>>on and re-set the tension as per the manual
>>>
>>>Just so you know, My gear leg already had space for the o-ring in the
>>>bottom, so maybe you can just fit the o-ring.
>>>
>>>hope this helps you, sorry i dont have any pictures, I did it as part of the
>>>build and it took about 30 seconds
>>>
>>>regards
>>>
>>>craig
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Herve
>>>Sent: Wednesday, 2 July 2008 6:32 PM
>>>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Europa-List: mod 59
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Hello
>>>I am trying to do mod 59 (nose wheel shimmy damper) and I am a little
>>>confuse as to what is what and goes where.Has anyone got some
>>>pictures to explain?
>>>G.CHET europa xs turbo
>>>Herve
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Checked by AVG.
>>>7:23 PM
>>>
>>>Checked by AVG.
>>>7:23 PM
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>--
>>>Checked by AVG.
>>>7/1/2008 7:23 PM
Message 3
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>Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2008 09:00:10 +0100
>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>Subject: Fwd: RE: Europa-List: mod 59
>
>
>>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>>Subject: Fwd: RE: Europa-List: mod 59
>>
>>Hi Craig
>>Thank you very much for your advise.Will have a go this week
>>end.You wouldn't be close to leicester?
>>Regards
>>Herve
>>
>>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>>>Subject: Fwd: RE: Europa-List: mod 59
>>>
>>>
>>>>From: "craig bastin" <craigb@onthenet.com.au>
>>>>To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>>>>Subject: RE: Europa-List: mod 59
>>>>Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 22:09:56 +1000
>>>>Sender: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>X-Antivirus: AVG for E-mail 7.5.524 [270.4.3/1529]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Yes i have done it. It is quite simple
>>>>undo the nut from the top of the shaft that holds the nose wheel fork
>>>>remove the fork and all the washers, spacers etc, THE PIN, and in the kit
>>>>you will find the small steel ring about 1.5mm thick that will slide
>>>>onto the shaft of the nose wheel fork, slide the whole thing
>>>>back into gear leg without anything else on there, just the small ring from
>>>>the kit
>>>>then put the big ring from the kit on top of the gear leg and a couple of
>>>>washers on top of the ring
>>>>then a half inch nut, there SHOULD be a gap under the washers. tighten up
>>>>the nut until the
>>>>flat plates on the top of the nose wheel and the bottom of the gear leg
>>>>touch. This should have the
>>>>small steel ring inside the bottom of the gear leg. Then remove the nut and
>>>>washers, remove the
>>>>nose wheel and the two steel rings (which you no longer need), At
>>>>this point
>>>>the inner sleve
>>>>may be sticking up out the top of the gear leg, if so, cut/file it off till
>>>>it's nice and flush.
>>>>put the whole thing back together but this time put the rubber
>>>>o-ring on top
>>>>of the shimmy plate, so
>>>>when you slide the nose wheel back into the leg it will be inside
>>>>the bottom
>>>>of the gear leg (where the small steel ring was)
>>>>then put the washers (new bigger ones from the kit) plus 4 of the old ones
>>>>on the top with your Castelated Nut (the one with the slots cut in it)
>>>>on and re-set the tension as per the manual
>>>>
>>>>Just so you know, My gear leg already had space for the o-ring in the
>>>>bottom, so maybe you can just fit the o-ring.
>>>>
>>>>hope this helps you, sorry i dont have any pictures, I did it as
>>>>part of the
>>>>build and it took about 30 seconds
>>>>
>>>>regards
>>>>
>>>>craig
>>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Herve
>>>>Sent: Wednesday, 2 July 2008 6:32 PM
>>>>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>>>>Subject: Europa-List: mod 59
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Hello
>>>>I am trying to do mod 59 (nose wheel shimmy damper) and I am a little
>>>>confuse as to what is what and goes where.Has anyone got some
>>>>pictures to explain?
>>>>G.CHET europa xs turbo
>>>>Herve
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Checked by AVG.
>>>>7:23 PM
>>>>
>>>>Checked by AVG.
>>>>7:23 PM
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>--
>>>>Checked by AVG.
>>>>7/1/2008 7:23 PM
Message 4
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Hi Craig
Thank you very much for your advise.Will have a go this week end.You
wouldn't be close to leicester?
Regards
Herve
From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>Subject: Fwd: RE: Europa-List: mod 59
>
>
>>From: "craig bastin" <craigb@onthenet.com.au>
>>To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RE: Europa-List: mod 59
>>Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 22:09:56 +1000
>>Sender: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
>>X-Antivirus: AVG for E-mail 7.5.524 [270.4.3/1529]
>>
>>
>>Yes i have done it. It is quite simple
>>undo the nut from the top of the shaft that holds the nose wheel fork
>>remove the fork and all the washers, spacers etc, THE PIN, and in the kit
>>you will find the small steel ring about 1.5mm thick that will slide
>>onto the shaft of the nose wheel fork, slide the whole thing
>>back into gear leg without anything else on there, just the small ring from
>>the kit
>>then put the big ring from the kit on top of the gear leg and a couple of
>>washers on top of the ring
>>then a half inch nut, there SHOULD be a gap under the washers. tighten up
>>the nut until the
>>flat plates on the top of the nose wheel and the bottom of the gear leg
>>touch. This should have the
>>small steel ring inside the bottom of the gear leg. Then remove the nut and
>>washers, remove the
>>nose wheel and the two steel rings (which you no longer need), At this point
>>the inner sleve
>>may be sticking up out the top of the gear leg, if so, cut/file it off till
>>it's nice and flush.
>>put the whole thing back together but this time put the rubber o-ring on top
>>of the shimmy plate, so
>>when you slide the nose wheel back into the leg it will be inside the bottom
>>of the gear leg (where the small steel ring was)
>>then put the washers (new bigger ones from the kit) plus 4 of the old ones
>>on the top with your Castelated Nut (the one with the slots cut in it)
>>on and re-set the tension as per the manual
>>
>>Just so you know, My gear leg already had space for the o-ring in the
>>bottom, so maybe you can just fit the o-ring.
>>
>>hope this helps you, sorry i dont have any pictures, I did it as part of the
>>build and it took about 30 seconds
>>
>>regards
>>
>>craig
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Herve
>>Sent: Wednesday, 2 July 2008 6:32 PM
>>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Europa-List: mod 59
>>
>>
>>
>>Hello
>>I am trying to do mod 59 (nose wheel shimmy damper) and I am a little
>>confuse as to what is what and goes where.Has anyone got some
>>pictures to explain?
>>G.CHET europa xs turbo
>>Herve
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Checked by AVG.
>>7:23 PM
>>
>>Checked by AVG.
>>7:23 PM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>Checked by AVG.
>>7/1/2008 7:23 PM
Message 5
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Graham=2C
What is the implication of using silicone hoses which I and others have ins
talled ? I had a couple of small leaks where I refitted Rotax spring clamps
(in ground tests). And should there not be a mandatory mod from Europa to
change all worm clamps ? The Skydrive kit is installed on many Europas and
it has about 8 clamps. Then there are another two clamps for the temperatur
e sensor.
What type of clamps are used on automobiles ?
I am going to investigate the new clamps pointed out by Michael.
Karl<html><div></div>> Date: Thu=2C 3 Jul 2008 10:24:03 +0100> From:
grahamsingleton@btinternet.com> To: europa-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re
Singleton <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>> > Karl Heindl wrote:> > Graham
=2C> > > > You have a point there=2C but don't all Europa Rotaxes have worm
clamps > > for the thick hoses from the radiator=2C plus a few more when t
he > > Skydrive kit is installed ?> > > > Karl> Karl> you are right but all
the hoses Rotax fit on the engine now have clips. > It was a Europa factor
y molded hose that let go on me. Those hoses are > fiber reinforced elastom
> > >
Message 6
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| Subject: | Rotax fly in & factory tour |
Just received a notice about a Rotax fly in and factory tour.
Any one wishing to take the opportunity to see where their engines are made need
to register on the official web site.
The airfield at Wels is about a 20min drive from the Rotax factory
www.rotaxflyin.at
Conrad
www.conairsports.co.uk
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191038#191038
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant Temps. |
Karl
could be that the clip is the wrong size for the hose. You maybe should
ask the hose supplier what size to use? Similarly if you want to use
spring clips you need to find out what size the hose needs.
There probably should be a mod but don't hold your breath ;-)
Graham
Karl Heindl wrote:
> Graham,
>
> What is the implication of using silicone hoses which I and others
> have installed ? I had a couple of small leaks where I refitted Rotax
> spring clamps (in ground tests). And should there not be a mandatory
> mod from Europa to change all worm clamps ? The Skydrive kit is
> installed on many Europas and it has about 8 clamps. Then there are
> another two clamps for the temperature sensor.
> What type of clamps are used on automobiles ?
> I am going to investigate the new clamps pointed out by Michael.
> Karl
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: mono brake mounting |
At 2008-06-28 21:58 -0400 JohnDHeykoop@aol.com wrote:
>There is a metal insert in the tunnel wall (the area you call the
>"plain resin area"). The mounting holes need to go in this area,
>parallel to the top of the tunnel as shown in the illustration
John - thanks for your reply.
The metal insert in my cockpit module must be a quite exotic alloy as
I can see through it! That's why I said it was a "plain resin" area -
obviously it has glass weave too.
But now I'm wondering - is my cockpit module faulty? Can anyone else
confirm that the brake master cylinder mounting area contains a metal
insert as John found on his?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson@googlemail.com> http://home.clara.net/rowil/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: A question on composits |
Paul,
Nothing, yet, but I'm leaning toward something along the lines of the
Lanceair 235. There's a cover shot of one in the July '08 Kitplanes.
The new cowl would, of course, be minus the carb intake underneath.
This is probably going to be a lengthy project, as I want to fly several
variations to compare the results. When it's finished, the design will
certainly be offered to the list.
Jeff - Baby Blue
Paul McAllister wrote:
>
> Hi Jeff,
>
> Would you happen to have any photographs of the cowl design that your
> trying to build ?
>
> Thanks, Paul
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: mono brake mounting |
Rowland,
I can confirm that my cockpit module had an aluminum plate for the brake master cylinder mount molded into the cockpit module. If you will go to my build web site ( http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL/ ), album Year #2, Q3 2004. Go down the page to the pic "Brake master cylinder bolted in place." The view is from the bottom of the cockpit module. You can plainly see the aluminum plate bonded into the cockpit module.
You should contact the factory to see if your CM is correct or defective. If your
CM has been bonded in place already, it may be that you just need to bond
the appropriate chunk of aluminum to the back side with Araldite and cover with
a couple plys of BID. Or, perhaps take the appropriate chunk of aluminum, use
it as a template to mark the area on the inside of the CM where it will reside.
Cut out the inner layer of BID and remove the layer of foam. Bond the chunk
of aluminum in place with Araldite, using Araldite/FLOX to fill any cracks.
If necessary, make a FLOX fillet around to provide a transition to the inner
skin, and lay up at least two layers of BID on the back side, maybe more.
Other folks suggestions as to the number of layups would be welcome. Probably
need to overlap the inner skin by at least 1 inch (2.5 cm). I might go 2 inches
(5 cm). Of course, be sure to scuff sand every bonding surface, aluminum
and fiberglass.
Hope this helps.
Good building and great flying,
Bob Borger
Cell: 817-992-1117 (U.S.A access codes)
On Thursday, July 03, 2008, at 09:30AM, "Rowland Carson" <rowlandcarson@googlemail.com>
wrote:
>
>At 2008-06-28 21:58 -0400 JohnDHeykoop@aol.com wrote:
>
>>There is a metal insert in the tunnel wall (the area you call the
>>"plain resin area"). The mounting holes need to go in this area,
>>parallel to the top of the tunnel as shown in the illustration
>
>John - thanks for your reply.
>
>The metal insert in my cockpit module must be a quite exotic alloy as
>I can see through it! That's why I said it was a "plain resin" area -
>obviously it has glass weave too.
>
>But now I'm wondering - is my cockpit module faulty? Can anyone else
>confirm that the brake master cylinder mounting area contains a metal
>insert as John found on his?
>
>regards
>
>Rowland
>--
>| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
>| <rowlandcarson@googlemail.com> http://home.clara.net/rowil/
>
>
Message 11
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|
Chris Staines made a fairly easy amendment to his lower cowling, by
cutting a slit at the bottom and folding it up.
Then cutting out a wedge and re-glassing, also moved the inlet back
to just in front of the rad.
He indicated it may have added a knot or two to the cruise, did not
affect cooling.
Photo attached ( I hope).
Dave C-FBZI, finally about to re-fit my Woodcomp after repair
IMG_0211.JPG
Message 12
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| Subject: | Cooling & Cowling |
Since I struggled with the cooling on my 912-S Tri gear for so very
long I thought I'd throw my thoughts into this subject. I have found
the air cooling of the fins to be inadequate. If you look at the round
inlets in relation to where the top of the engine sits you will find
they are too low and too outside. After trying everything to get mine
to cool on the ground and in the climb I finally got mad and took a
drummel tool to the inlets and opened them up a bit to the top and in
towards the spinner. For now... she looks a little sad but my CHT's
instantly dropped about 10 to 15 degrees. I'm going to work on the
inside of these holes next to provide an expanding 1" wall to eliminate
any turbulence of the incoming air flow.
Believe me I'v tried everything everyone has mentioned here from
closing up all the gaps around the rad to closing the gills. Nothing
did more for taxi and climb cooling than raising these holes. If you
look at all the LSA's with rotax engines the intakes are higher so the
air can get to the top of the engine before it's pulled or pushed down
through the fins. The real solution would be for rotax to start selling
plenums like the Jab's then route the hoses to fit over them.
Regards,
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 130 hours and enjoying every flight more.
PS. Jeff of Baby blue... If your making a mold that turns out
successfully try and saving it. I would love a better designed cowl.
;0)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Cooling & Cowling |
Jeff,
Should I end up with a cowl that pleases me, esthetically and does the
job on cooling and air speed, I will use it as a plug and build a mold
for it. I'm sure you could twist my arm for use of the mold... :)
Jeff - Baby Blue
JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
> Since I struggled with the cooling on my 912-S Tri gear for so very long
> I thought I'd throw my thoughts into this subject. I have found the air
> cooling of the fins to be inadequate. If you look at the round inlets in
> relation to where the top of the engine sits you will find they are too
> low and too outside. After trying everything to get mine to cool on the
> ground and in the climb I finally got mad and took a drummel tool to the
> inlets and opened them up a bit to the top and in towards the spinner.
> For now... she looks a little sad but my CHT's instantly dropped about
> 10 to 15 degrees. I'm going to work on the inside of these holes next to
> provide an expanding 1" wall to eliminate any turbulence of the incoming
> air flow.
> Believe me I'v tried everything everyone has mentioned here from closing
> up all the gaps around the rad to closing the gills. Nothing did more
> for taxi and climb cooling than raising these holes. If you look at all
> the LSA's with rotax engines the intakes are higher so the air can get
> to the top of the engine before it's pulled or pushed down through the
> fins. The real solution would be for rotax to start selling plenums like
> the Jab's then route the hoses to fit over them.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff R.
> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 130 hours and enjoying every flight more.
>
>
> PS. Jeff of Baby blue... If your making a mold that turns out
> successfully try and saving it. I would love a better designed cowl. ;0)
> size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: A question on composits |
Jeff,
In attachment my concept of cowling and inner radiator duct.
Best regards,
Karel Vranken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff B" <topglock@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2000 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: A question on composits
>
> Paul,
>
> Nothing, yet, but I'm leaning toward something along the lines of the
> Lanceair 235. There's a cover shot of one in the July '08 Kitplanes. The
> new cowl would, of course, be minus the carb intake underneath. This is
> probably going to be a lengthy project, as I want to fly several
> variations to compare the results. When it's finished, the design will
> certainly be offered to the list.
>
> Jeff - Baby Blue
>
> Paul McAllister wrote:
>> <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
>>
>> Hi Jeff,
>>
>> Would you happen to have any photographs of the cowl design that your
>> trying to build ?
>>
>> Thanks, Paul
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Checked by AVG.
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: mono brake mounting |
Rowland,
As you remember perhaps we were in Kirbymoorside the same day to pick up the
first stage of our millenium deal. So I think we had similar parts. Also for
the cockpit module we have about the same construction. Indeed the
reinforced place for the attachment of the brake cylinder is clear glassed
as you can see in the pictures attached. The first one is looking as if
there is metal inside. But when you put the light underneath then it becomes
clear. Note the different position of my brake cylinder and different
throttle.
Best regards
Karel Vranken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rowland Carson" <rowlandcarson@googlemail.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: mono brake mounting
> <rowlandcarson@googlemail.com>
>
> At 2008-06-28 21:58 -0400 JohnDHeykoop@aol.com wrote:
>
>>There is a metal insert in the tunnel wall (the area you call the "plain
>>resin area"). The mounting holes need to go in this area, parallel to the
>>top of the tunnel as shown in the illustration
>
> John - thanks for your reply.
>
> The metal insert in my cockpit module must be a quite exotic alloy as I
> can see through it! That's why I said it was a "plain resin" area -
> obviously it has glass weave too.
>
> But now I'm wondering - is my cockpit module faulty? Can anyone else
> confirm that the brake master cylinder mounting area contains a metal
> insert as John found on his?
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
> --
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Gas Strut door location lug. |
Bob,
In attachment two pics of a modified Ted Gladstone concept. I reinforced the
fuselage to accept the harness belts.
Best regards,
Karel Vranken.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 7:31 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Gas Strut door location lug.
> Hi! All
> A very inconsiderate flyer at the Stauning Rally and blipped his throttle
> spinning round to park whilst in front of G-PTAG with the doors open and
> pulled the starboard side gas strut lug off/out of the door.
> I recall some different location positions for the lugs on more recent
> "ships" can anyone point me in that direction please?
> It seems somewhat silly to not use a more up dated position at this point.
> Regards
> Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Cooling & Cowling |
Jeff,
Do you have the Rotax fibre glass cooling cowl fitted to your engine? This
picks up the air from the Stbd front inlet and forces it down through the
fins.
Brian Davies
G-DDBD 912S Trigear
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JEFF ROBERTS
Sent: 03 July 2008 21:34
Subject: Europa-List: Cooling & Cowling
Since I struggled with the cooling on my 912-S Tri gear for so very long I
thought I'd throw my thoughts into this subject. I have found the air
cooling of the fins to be inadequate. If you look at the round inlets in
relation to where the top of the engine sits you will find they are too low
and too outside. After trying everything to get mine to cool on the ground
and in the climb I finally got mad and took a drummel tool to the inlets and
opened them up a bit to the top and in towards the spinner. For now... she
looks a little sad but my CHT's instantly dropped about 10 to 15 degrees.
I'm going to work on the inside of these holes next to provide an expanding
1" wall to eliminate any turbulence of the incoming air flow.
Believe me I'v tried everything everyone has mentioned here from closing up
all the gaps around the rad to closing the gills. Nothing did more for taxi
and climb cooling than raising these holes. If you look at all the LSA's
with rotax engines the intakes are higher so the air can get to the top of
the engine before it's pulled or pushed down through the fins. The real
solution would be for rotax to start selling plenums like the Jab's then
route the hoses to fit over them.
Regards,
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 130 hours and enjoying every flight more.
PS. Jeff of Baby blue... If your making a mold that turns out successfully
try and saving it. I would love a better designed cowl. ;0)
Checked by AVG.
19:02
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Cooling & Cowling |
Jeff
I fiddled with Jab 6 baffles and plenums for weeks. Finally Tony Higgins
told us to put a box below the air filter plenum to give non curving
airflow into the mouth of the carburetter. That cured the very uneven
CHTs instantly. It seems all the cooling problems were caused by uneven
mixture distribution from the single carb on the Jab. Tony never says
anything on here unfortunately.
Graham
JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
> Since I struggled with the cooling on my 912-S Tri gear for so very
> long I thought I'd throw my thoughts into this subject. I have found
> the air cooling of the fins to be inadequate. If you look at the round
> inlets in relation to where the top of the engine sits you will find
> they are too low and too outside. After trying everything to get mine
> to cool on the ground and in the climb I finally got mad and took a
> drummel tool to the inlets and opened them up a bit to the top and in
> towards the spinner. For now... she looks a little sad but my CHT's
> instantly dropped about 10 to 15 degrees. I'm going to work on the
> inside of these holes next to provide an expanding 1" wall to
> eliminate any turbulence of the incoming air flow.
> Believe me I'v tried everything everyone has mentioned here from
> closing up all the gaps around the rad to closing the gills. Nothing
> did more for taxi and climb cooling than raising these holes. If you
> look at all the LSA's with rotax engines the intakes are higher so the
> air can get to the top of the engine before it's pulled or pushed down
> through the fins. The real solution would be for rotax to start
> selling plenums like the Jab's then route the hoses to fit over them.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff R.
> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 130 hours and enjoying every flight more.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Cooling & Cowling |
Jeff,
If you are a good eater you need a good bowel movement. You may create
openings in the cowling for air entree, if you don't create an excit the
air will stay immobile under the cowling. For instance: if you enlarge
the forward round inlets as I did then the surface for air intake
enlarges by the square diameter. Second thing to do like I did: In the
original cowling concept I felt some warm air entering trough the wheel
well and the landing gear arm sleeve. After my modification I can put
the Jeppensen airfield leaves on the sleeve and they stay fixed because
there is a suction outwards now. I also measured under cowling
temperatures and after my mods they are the same as outside temperatures
+ - 5=B0C. Terry Seaver experimented also in this matter and finaly cut
down the end of the inner aluminium duct. I wish you courage and fun
during your experiment.
Best regards,
Karel Vranken, F-PKRL actually 160 hours. 912 ULS Airmaster CSU
----- Original Message -----
From: JEFF ROBERTS
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 10:34 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Cooling & Cowling
Since I struggled with the cooling on my 912-S Tri gear for so very
long I thought I'd throw my thoughts into this subject. I have found the
air cooling of the fins to be inadequate. If you look at the round
inlets in relation to where the top of the engine sits you will find
they are too low and too outside. After trying everything to get mine to
cool on the ground and in the climb I finally got mad and took a drummel
tool to the inlets and opened them up a bit to the top and in towards
the spinner. For now... she looks a little sad but my CHT's instantly
dropped about 10 to 15 degrees. I'm going to work on the inside of these
holes next to provide an expanding 1" wall to eliminate any turbulence
of the incoming air flow.
Believe me I'v tried everything everyone has mentioned here from
closing up all the gaps around the rad to closing the gills. Nothing did
more for taxi and climb cooling than raising these holes. If you look at
all the LSA's with rotax engines the intakes are higher so the air can
get to the top of the engine before it's pulled or pushed down through
the fins. The real solution would be for rotax to start selling plenums
like the Jab's then route the hoses to fit over them.
Regards,
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 130 hours and enjoying every flight more.
PS. Jeff of Baby blue... If your making a mold that turns out
successfully try and saving it. I would love a better designed cowl. ;0)
http://forums.matronics.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: A question on composits |
Hi Karel,
Nice looking modification. Do you have the radiators directly behind
each other or to you have the rear one dropped down by 40 mm ?
Paul
On Thu, Jul 3, 2008 at 4:28 PM, karelvranken <karelvranken@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Jeff,
> In attachment my concept of cowling and inner radiator duct.
> Best regards,
> Karel Vranken
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff B" <topglock@cox.net>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 03, 2000 4:37 PM
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: A question on composits
>
>
>>
>> Paul,
>>
>> Nothing, yet, but I'm leaning toward something along the lines of the
>> Lanceair 235. There's a cover shot of one in the July '08 Kitplanes. The
>> new cowl would, of course, be minus the carb intake underneath. This is
>> probably going to be a lengthy project, as I want to fly several variations
>> to compare the results. When it's finished, the design will certainly be
>> offered to the list.
>>
>> Jeff - Baby Blue
>>
>> Paul McAllister wrote:
>>>
>>> <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> Hi Jeff,
>>>
>>> Would you happen to have any photographs of the cowl design that your
>>> trying to build ?
>>>
>>> Thanks, Paul
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>> Checked by AVG.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Where to get the Rotax 914 TLR Software? |
Does anyone know if there is a downloadable version of the Turbo and TCU monitoring
software? If not, where can I buy it or get a copy? The manual states it
comes on a 3.5" floppy...um, anyone remember what floppy is! [Wink] It has
got to be a download somewhere.
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7 (Final Assembly)
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191160#191160
Message 22
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| Subject: | Fwd: Carb Heat on Rotax engines: LAA Policy |
See below. So now we know...
Begin forwarded message:
> From: "engineering" <engineering@laa.uk.com>
> Date: 3 July 2008 17:07:32 BDT
> To: <willie.harrison@tinyonline.co.uk>
> Cc: "Gretta Medley" <gretta.medley@laa.uk.com>
> Subject: RE: Carb Heat on Rotax engines: Mod application 10427; FAO
> Andy Draper/Francis Donaldson
>
> Dear Willie,
>
> The Skydrive carb heat kit may be fitted to a Rotax 900 series engine
> without reference to LAA Engineering. The installation must be
> checked
> and approved by an LAA inspector though.
>
> With Ian Rickard's valued assistance, I am in the throes of getting
> this
> mod on the list of Standard Mods list that is shown on the web site.
>
> Best regards
> Andy Draper
> Design Engineer
> Light Aircraft Association
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: A question on composits |
Karel,
Great stuff! Thanks...
Jeff - Baby Blue
karelvranken wrote:
> Jeff,
> In attachment my concept of cowling and inner radiator duct.
> Best regards,
> Karel Vranken
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff B" <topglock@cox.net>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 03, 2000 4:37 PM
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: A question on composits
>
>
>>
>> Paul,
>>
>> Nothing, yet, but I'm leaning toward something along the lines of the
>> Lanceair 235. There's a cover shot of one in the July '08 Kitplanes.
>> The new cowl would, of course, be minus the carb intake underneath.
>> This is probably going to be a lengthy project, as I want to fly
>> several variations to compare the results. When it's finished, the
>> design will certainly be offered to the list.
>>
>> Jeff - Baby Blue
>>
>> Paul McAllister wrote:
>>> <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> Hi Jeff,
>>>
>>> Would you happen to have any photographs of the cowl design that your
>>> trying to build ?
>>>
>>> Thanks, Paul
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>> Checked by AVG.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Where to get the Rotax 914 TLR Software? |
The software is down loadable from the Rotax aircraft engines web site.
www.rotax-aircraft-engines.com
Go to the download section, in the drop down table select engine type "914".
Look for a file called TLR***.
You will need to know which TCU you have to get the correct software.
If you can give me the TCU part number I should be able to tell you which version
of software you need.
Conrad
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191168#191168
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: A question on composits |
Paul,
I didn't use the original cubic radiator for the coolant. The surface is
greater and only 1,5" thick with the same contents. I didn't need to lower
the oil radiator. Using the Evans coolant I notice normally in cruise 100C
for oil and 110C for coolant. In hot summer like last year in Italy by 41C
on the tarmac the temperatures rose with 10C. Oil is changed every 50 hours
and I use actually Shell Advance 4. Next I will change to the Aeroshell
Sport plus. I always use Mogas 98 without alcohol.
Best regards,
Karel Vranken, F-PKRL 912 ULS Airmaster CSU.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 12:44 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: A question on composits
> <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
>
> Hi Karel,
>
> Nice looking modification. Do you have the radiators directly behind
> each other or to you have the rear one dropped down by 40 mm ?
>
> Paul
>
> On Thu, Jul 3, 2008 at 4:28 PM, karelvranken <karelvranken@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>> Jeff,
>> In attachment my concept of cowling and inner radiator duct.
>> Best regards,
>> Karel Vranken
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff B" <topglock@cox.net>
>> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Monday, July 03, 2000 4:37 PM
>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: A question on composits
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Paul,
>>>
>>> Nothing, yet, but I'm leaning toward something along the lines of the
>>> Lanceair 235. There's a cover shot of one in the July '08 Kitplanes.
>>> The
>>> new cowl would, of course, be minus the carb intake underneath. This is
>>> probably going to be a lengthy project, as I want to fly several
>>> variations
>>> to compare the results. When it's finished, the design will certainly
>>> be
>>> offered to the list.
>>>
>>> Jeff - Baby Blue
>>>
>>> Paul McAllister wrote:
>>>>
>>>> <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Jeff,
>>>>
>>>> Would you happen to have any photographs of the cowl design that your
>>>> trying to build ?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, Paul
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Checked by AVG.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Where to get the Rotax 914 TLR Software? |
Conrad,
Thanks, I found what I need.
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7 (Final Assembly)
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191171#191171
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Cooling & Cowling |
Brian,
When I bought my kit from Florida in 2002 I was told I didn't need it.
Most people then didn't do the third opening. If I had to do it over I
would have not listened to them but hind sight?
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 125 hours and climbing slowly.
On Jul 3, 2008, at 4:50 PM, Brian Davies wrote:
> Jeff,
>
> Do you have the Rotax fibre glass cooling cowl fitted to your engine?
> This picks up the air from the Stbd front inlet and forces it down
> through the fins.
>
> Brian Davies
> G-DDBD 912S Trigear
>
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JEFF
> ROBERTS
> Sent: 03 July 2008 21:34
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Cooling & Cowling
>
> Since I struggled with the cooling on my 912-S Tri gear for so very
> long I thought I'd throw my thoughts into this subject. I have found
> the air cooling of the fins to be inadequate. If you look at the round
> inlets in relation to where the top of the engine sits you will find
> they are too low and too outside. After trying everything to get mine
> to cool on the ground and in the climb I finally got mad and took a
> drummel tool to the inlets and opened them up a bit to the top and in
> towards the spinner. For now... she looks a little sad but my CHT's
> instantly dropped about 10 to 15 degrees. I'm going to work on the
> inside of these holes next to provide an expanding 1" wall to
> eliminate any turbulence of the incoming air flow.
> Believe me I'v tried everything everyone has mentioned here from
> closing up all the gaps around the rad to closing the gills. Nothing
> did more for taxi and climb cooling than raising these holes. If you
> look at all the LSA's with rotax engines the intakes are higher so the
> air can get to the top of the engine before it's pulled or pushed down
> through the fins. The real solution would be for rotax to start
> selling plenums like the Jab's then route the hoses to fit over them.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff R.
> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 130 hours and enjoying every flight more.
>
>
> PS. Jeff of Baby blue... If your making a mold that turns out
> successfully try and saving it. I would love a better designed cowl.
> ;0)
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: A question on composits |
On Wednesday, Jul 2, 2008, at 17:38 US/Pacific, Rman wrote:
> I've successfully made a mold from my current cowl, and want to make
> a new cowl. One that I can cut up and modify. My question is, what
> is the best cloth and resin to use to build the cowl? Any ideas on
> what is used in the stock Europa cowl and how many layers of cloth are
> used?
Jeff...great idea...
If memory serves, I seem to recall reading that the stock cowl is made
of FG and vinyl-ester resin; heat resistance and cure time may be the
reasons, but by all means get more info from an authoritative source. I
do know that Alex Bowman used vinyl-ester resin on his custom cowl, but
I'm not sure of the reasoning behind the decision to use it.
If you do make up a production mold, my local composite guru recommends
"molding cloth" which is a fairly heavy tight weave; for my special
wingroot fairing/fillet molds, I've used four layers of Acft Spruce P/N
7781-50...it's a bitch to wet out w/ Aeropoxy and I've had to really
work at getting out the air bubbles, but the surface is pretty smooth
when cured. Since the mold is long and has no tight radii, I've had to
add an armature of triangulated tongue depressor sticks to maintain the
exact desired shape, but hey, with no real experience behind me, I'm
learning as I go.
> I've just got this nagging idea, in my head that a well designed cowl
> will improve cooling, air speed, weight and appearance. Am I wrong?:
> :)
Though I'm not sure it's fair to say that Baby Blue needs a nose job, I
also seem to recall comments on this forum to the effect that the stock
XS cowl was designed under some time/deadline pressure and that the
results were less than optimum. IMHO...and it's just opinion...cooling
drag may be higher than need be...and the aesthetics of the radiator
inlet can be much improved. I've always admired the Suncoast/Jab
cowling on John Lawton's ship with its Mooney/Lancair-style inlets, and
I like Karel's modifications as well.
Go for it Jeff,
Fred
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