Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:25 AM - Re: mono brake mounting (Rowland Carson)
2. 08:06 AM - Re: Mono Master brake Cylinder ()
3. 08:36 AM - Re: Sanding ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: mono brake mounting |
At 2008-07-04 18:22 -0500 Robert Borger wrote:
>I finally had to opportunity to get under my aircraft and pull the
>masking from the wheel well area so I could get in to see what is
>going on. There is no aluminum plate in there. It is some sort of
>reinforced area and I have no idea what is actually acting as
>reinforcement.
Bob - I had a word with the factory today on the phone.
Roger went down to the shop where they have just completed a new
cockpit module and the technician there said they make a rectangular
cutout there in the brown foam and put in 12 layers of glass to make
it up to the same thickness as the foam before the top layer of
pre-preg goes on.
Maybe once upon a time they did use a metal insert and that is what
some people have got. The Classic CM had no prepared area and
required the builder to cut away one side of the glass and the foam
and replace it with plywood before re-glassing.
Thanks for your confidence-building response.
regards
Rowland
--
| Wilma & Rowland Carson http://home.clara.net/rowil/
| <rowil@clara.net> ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Mono Master brake Cylinder |
Hi Mike
I have a Monowheel, would not mind having a spare master cylinder.
Ron Parigoris
44 Carriage Drive
Kings Park, NY 11754
Hm 631-979-7675
Wk 631-752-0184 leave voice mail
Is there anything you may need for your bird?
Evans coolant?
Rotax brand tachometer?
I will pay for shipping, ground UPS or post office, not in a rush.
How does 50$ sound??
Ron Parigoris
On Sun, Jul 6, 2008, DuaneFamly@aol.com said:
> Good morning All,
>
> In going through my storage bins I have come across what appears to be a
> manually operated single piston brake actuator manufactured by Kart Components.
> The kit contained a 90' elbow and about a 3 ft hose with connectors on both
> ends. I believe this to be a master cylinder for a mono.(?)
>
> If anyone can use this, make me an offer including shipping from California.
>
>
> Mike Duane A207A
> Redding, California
> XS Conventional Gear
> Jabiru 3300
> Sensenich R64Z N
> Ground Adjustable Prop
>
>
>
>
> **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
> fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
>
--
Message 3
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Hi Fred
> I'm finding that the word, "easy", as applied to sanding dry micro, is
> indeed a relative term.
We had pretty good success sanding dry micro (Expancel). The key is that
it is "DRY". If there is a hint of sheen it is too wet. Are you using the
plastic micro balloons (expancel) or the white glass micro balloons
(q-cel)?
We found the secret was to wet out the surface to be expancelled, squeegee
it very thin and wait 45 or more minutes till it is good and aggressive
tacky, then apply very think expancel. We mixed up 5 oz of aeropoxy with
60 minute hardener, and put 1 oz in 5 12 oz ACS mixing cups so it would
not exotherm, then keep mixing in expancel. Amazing just how much you can
add, only need enough to just about stick itself together. Then we liked a
2" spackle knife. If you don't wait for skim coat to get very tacky, you
will need to have too much resin in expancel mix to stick, hence much
harder to sand.
Another trick we used was after thick expancel layer is added. When it
gets very tacky, if there is any voids or low areas, instead of trying to
mix another batch of expancel and probably make more of a mess than is
worth it, we use Aeropoxy Lite from ACS! It is just fine to apply Lite to
wet Aeropoxy/expancel! Just make sure you store Aeropoxy Light upside down
as it settles out and needs mixing after a few days. The white mixes OK
with a 12" steel rule from your adjustable square (you need the rigidity).
Unless subsequent addition of filler is a lot, where we would use
Aeropoxy/expancel, we used Aeropoxy Light. Problem with subsequent
Aeropoxy/expancel is the area you must wet out first is much harder than
dry expancel and when sanding it gives water lines around that hard area.
The Aeropoxy light sands just about same as Dry expancel and not much in
the way of water lines. If you do need to do smaller areas of dry expancel
you can use 30 minute hardener for the expancel, but best use 60 minute
hardener for the skim coat as its very sticky state can be too short for
your liking.
For pinholes, we like to use super keen razor blades from www.mcmaster.com
and JB Weld KWIK. The JB KWIK is in tan and blue tubes and is 4 minute
cure and much thicker compared to the JB Weld red and black tubes that is
I think 8 hours. A lot of hardware stores sell JB KWIK as does
www.mcmaster.com . You only want to fill pinholes and small imperfections
as it too is harder to sand compared to dry expancel. Have pretty much
stopped using 5 minute epoxy on build and use JB KWIK, stronger and harder
than the 5 rapid epoxy that was supplied with kit.
Ron Parigoris
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