Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:34 AM - Re: Removing PVA release agent ()
2. 01:04 PM - Re: Unlatched outrigger (nigel charles)
3. 02:54 PM - Re: Unlatched outrigger (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
4. 03:44 PM - Re: Unlatched outrigger (Fred Klein)
5. 04:36 PM - Re: Serious bonding problem (rparigoris)
6. 04:57 PM - Re: Unlatched outrigger (JR Gowing)
7. 05:10 PM - Re: Unlatched outrigger (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Removing PVA release agent |
Hi Andrew
"Here is a link to some photos. It is in corners and crevices, so I
> doubt it is packing tape."
OK I see what you are talking about. My plane had areas too like yours. I
think it is probably left over remnants of vacuum bag. Razor blade and a
few different tipped Exactos should rid you plane of most of it. Any areas
to be bonded you could take your time and razor out most and sand off the
rest. If it isn't going to be bonded to, don't kill yourself.
Ron P.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Unlatched outrigger |
>But as I read of the operational issues (airspeed at deployment, wear
and tear, lubrication, effects of temperature, etc.), I've had an
increasing appreciation for the value of the microswitch-warning lights
which some builders have installed.
I gotta admit that I am challenged by all things electrical, so I would
humbly ask that someone...someone who can handle wiring diagrams,
warning lights, microswitches, and a digital camera (while skipping rope
and chewing gum at the same time)...please, put together an illustrated
tutorial (in crayon) showing just how this is done.<
The wiring for the outrigger warning lights is very simple. Each light
is connected using a microswitch attached to the outrigger leg. The
placement of the microswitch was decided on such that its lever arm
would be fully depressed once the latch was engaged.
Nigel Charles
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Unlatched outrigger |
Simple wire run....wire from main buss to 1 amp circuit breaker or fuse,
then wire from CB/fuse to microswitch at the outrigger, wire from the
microswitch to green light inside cockpit, wire from green light to ground. Duplicate
using same CB/fuse, run out to microswitch on the other wing and then run back
to a second green light.
In a message dated 7/20/2008 1:05:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
nwcmc@tiscali.co.uk writes:
>But as I read of the operational issues (airspeed at deployment, wear and
tear, lubrication, effects of temperature, etc.), I've had an increasing
appreciation for the value of the microswitch-warning lights which some builders
have installed.
I gotta admit that I am challenged by all things electrical, so I would
humbly ask that someone...someone who can handle wiring diagrams, warning lights,
microswitches, and a digital camera (while skipping rope and chewing gum at
the same time)...please, put together an illustrated tutorial (in crayon)
showing just how this is done.<
The wiring for the outrigger warning lights is very simple. Each light is
connected using a microswitch attached to the outrigger leg. The placement of
the microswitch was decided on such that its lever arm would be fully
depressed once the latch was engaged.
Nigel Charles
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Unlatched outrigger |
On Sunday, Jul 20, 2008, at 13:01 US/Pacific, nigel charles wrote:
> The wiring for the outrigger warning lights is very simple. Each light
> is connected using a microswitch attached to the outrigger leg. The
> placement of the microswitch was decided on such that its lever arm
> would be fully depressed once the latch was engaged.
Nigel,
Y'know, in my field (architecture), I tend to undervalue the things
I've learned thru formal education and practical experience over time,
such that in conversation w/ a lay person, I sometimes make
unreasonable assumptions about the knowledge base of the person with
whom I'm talking.
Similarly, in the case at hand, I'm not sure I've ever seen or handled
a "microswitch". Looking in the Acft. Spruce catalog, I find no
listings, though I do see an "ultra-miniature toggle switch"...somehow,
I don't think this is what would serve, nor does it suggest any clues
as to what I need.
Some of the questions (perhaps "stupid" ones) going thru my mind are:
- Is there a size or rating for the type of microswitch referred to?
- Is there a specific microswitch which would be especially suitable
for this application, or are we simply talking about a generic,
universal type?
- What size wiring would be suitable?
- Would "outrigger warning lights" imply that there would be a red
light and a green light, or just the absence of a green light (when the
outrigger is not down and locked? Are we talking about LEDs, or some
kind of bulb?
- Any chance of a photo of an installed system?
Like I said in my original post, my being electrically-challenged, I
plead for information spelled out in crayon,
Cheers,
Fred
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Serious bonding problem |
Hi Frans
"The W18 themselves were bonded so well with the epoxy that I destroyed the W18's
during the attempts to clean them. The problem is just that the underlying
rib doesn't want to bond, whatever I try.
What is going on here? Any suggestions?"
Not very nice thing to happen on a plastic aeroplane indeed.
Did by chance any silicone get near your Europa?
I don't know where you are building, but did any of the following get near your
aeroplane:
Furniture aerosol waxes (door opened from home to garage when spraying)
Automobile silicone spray on like Armor All (did someone clean their car tires
with it near europa?)
Dot 5 brake fluid
Rain X silicone coating for automobile windshields
SiliKroil rust buster
Silicone is hard to get rid of.
Before you do anything, wipe some water on suspect bonding area, if it beads up
something is on there. You need water to lay matt flat. There are some wax/silicone
removers for preparing surfaces to be painted, you can try perhaps with
scotchbright?? Also acetone with scotchbright. Test sample to make sure it will
not damage your wing.
Something by chance is not on your sandpaper that you did your final sand with?
Same question about mixing containers or brushes?
OK another thought, did you use plastic sheeting to lay up glass onto? All the
Visqueen or other sheeting i have gotten a hold of for some time now has "slip"
on it and can go from just a little to an aweful lot. Slip is a powered compound
to prevent sheeting from sticking to itself, or in other words a release
agent. I am not absolute sure if all Mfgs use the same compound but I for one
wipe down all plastic sheeting with Isopropyl alcohol before I lay up onto.
Let us know what you find.
Ron Parigoris
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Unlatched outrigger |
Dear Nigel Charles
I am in Fred Klein's class and never knowingly looked carefully at a micro
-switch - if someone could post a photo of the switch in its location on th
e leg we, and I guess, a number of others would now have the full tutorial!
JR (Bob) Gowing in Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: DuaneFamly@aol.com
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Unlatched outrigger
Simple wire run....wire from main buss to 1 amp circuit breaker or fuse,
then wire from CB/fuse to microswitch at the outrigger, wire from the micro
switch to green light inside cockpit, wire from green light to ground. Dupl
icate using same CB/fuse, run out to microswitch on the other wing and then
run back to a second green light.
In a message dated 7/20/2008 1:05:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, nwcmc@ti
scali.co.uk writes:
>But as I read of the operational issues (airspeed at deployment, wear
and tear, lubrication, effects of temperature, etc.), I've had an increasin
g appreciation for the value of the microswitch-warning lights which some b
uilders have installed.
I gotta admit that I am challenged by all things electrical, so I would
humbly ask that someone...someone who can handle wiring diagrams, warning
lights, microswitches, and a digital camera (while skipping rope and chewin
g gum at the same time)...please, put together an illustrated tutorial (in
crayon) showing just how this is done.<
The wiring for the outrigger warning lights is very simple. Each light
is connected using a microswitch attached to the outrigger leg. The placeme
nt of the microswitch was decided on such that its lever arm would be fully
depressed once the latch was engaged.
Nigel Charles
f==22http://www.matronics.com/Navigator=3FEuropa-List=22>http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator=3FEuropa-List
.matronics.com/=22>http://forums.matronics.com
://www.matronics.com/contribution=22>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Unlatched outrigger |
Hi Fred,
I hope this helps a bit.
Mike
In a message dated 7/20/2008 3:44:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
fklein@orcasonline.com writes:
Similarly, in the case at hand, I'm not sure I've ever seen or handled
a "microswitch". Looking in the Acft. Spruce catalog, I find no
listings, though I do see an "ultra-miniature toggle switch"...somehow,
I don't think this is what would serve, nor does it suggest any clues
as to what I need.
_http://www.mouser.com/catalog/634/1508.pdf_
(http://www.mouser.com/catalog/634/1508.pdf) Middle of the page on right. Letters I,J,& K. Also look at
the previous page for A,B,C, & D. The connection for the wire should be this
type. You can use either small pushon connectors or solder a wire and cover
with heat shrink tubing. When the outrigger drops down, it should press the
lever that actuates the switch. These have two mounting holes in the body of the
switch. These current ratings are far above what you might need.....usually
less than a amp is used to make the circuit work.
Some of the questions (perhaps "stupid" ones) going thru my mind are:
- Is there a size or rating for the type of microswitch referred to?
- Is there a specific microswitch which would be especially suitable
for this application, or are we simply talking about a generic,
universal type?
- What size wiring would be suitable?
- Would "outrigger warning lights" imply that there would be a red
light and a green light, or just the absence of a green light (when the
outrigger is not down and locked? Are we talking about LEDs, or some
kind of bulb?
I would go with only the green, otherwise you are using electrical power to
have a red light constantly on. This could be annoying, especially when
flying at night.
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