Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:36 AM - Re: Starboard spar pin bush (craig bastin)
2. 02:18 AM - Fw: rubber pipe (Herve)
3. 02:31 AM - Re: Fw: rubber pipe (David Joyce)
4. 02:38 AM - Fw: rubber pipe (Herve)
5. 03:02 AM - Re: Fw: rubber pipe (craig bastin)
6. 03:04 AM - rubber pipe (Herve)
7. 03:08 AM - Re: Fw: rubber pipe (Herve)
8. 03:27 AM - Re: Fw: rubber pipe (Gilles Thesee)
9. 04:48 PM - Filling - Control surfaces (Fred Klein)
10. 07:41 PM - Re: Filling - Control surfaces (JEFF ROBERTS)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Starboard spar pin bush |
Yes I have them in and it's all fine, I was just thinking a "postive"
retention of the spar/pins
etc would be safer, and give me more piece of mind, I am probably worrying
about nothing.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of JR Gowing
Sent: Sunday, 14 September 2008 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Starboard spar pin bush
Craig
when you put in the front and reary lift pins you should be able to have
them locate the spar snugly in its place against the cockpit module.
JR Bob Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "raggi6771" <craigb@onthenet.com.au>
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Starboard spar pin bush
>
> My thought was to leave the front 80% (or so) of the original bushing
> in the wing spar and then the nut or threaded plate on the back of the
> spar and a tapered thread on the new pin from the 12mm down just enough to
> allow a nice lock up of the spar into the seat back. and then set
> the clearance with washers in the same way as the port side pip pin.
> Looking at the clearance I believe this would be do-able with a small
> relief in the starboard quick connect plate to allow the nut/ plate to
> slide past.
>
>
> Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG.
> 12/09/2008 2:18 PM
>
>
--
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
7:16 AM
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fwd: rubber pipe |
>Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 10:16:13 +0100
>To: sales@matronics.com
>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>Subject: rubber pipe
>
>Does any one know where I could get a rubber pipe ,2 inches in
>diameter,and 2 inches in length to fit in my rotax 914.it is the
>rubber which fit in between the carburetor and the air box to the turbo.
>G.CHET 914
>Herve
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: rubber pipe |
Herve, Have you tried Europa? Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herve" <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 10:17 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Fwd: rubber pipe
>
>
>>Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 10:16:13 +0100
>>To: sales@matronics.com
>>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>>Subject: rubber pipe
>>
>>Does any one know where I could get a rubber pipe ,2 inches in
>>diameter,and 2 inches in length to fit in my rotax 914.it is the
>>rubber which fit in between the carburetor and the air box to the turbo.
>>G.CHET 914
>>Herve
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fwd: rubber pipe |
>Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 10:17:54 +0100
>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>Subject: Fwd: rubber pipe
>
>
>>Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 10:16:13 +0100
>>To: sales@matronics.com
>>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>>Subject: rubber pipe
>>
>>Does any one know where I could get a rubber pipe ,2 inches in
>>diameter,and 2 inches in length to fit in my rotax 914.it is the
>>rubber which fit in between the carburetor and the air box to the turbo.
>>G.CHET 914
>>Herve
Message 5
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| Subject: | Fwd: rubber pipe |
Just a thought, but if you really get stuck, you could cut down a radiator
hose from a large
car or small truck. Could well be cheaper too
craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Herve
Sent: Monday, 15 September 2008 7:37 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Fwd: rubber pipe
>Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 10:17:54 +0100
>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>Subject: Fwd: rubber pipe
>
>
>>Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 10:16:13 +0100
>>To: sales@matronics.com
>>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>>Subject: rubber pipe
>>
>>Does any one know where I could get a rubber pipe ,2 inches in
>>diameter,and 2 inches in length to fit in my rotax 914.it is the
>>rubber which fit in between the carburetor and the air box to the turbo.
>>G.CHET 914
>>Herve
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
7:16 AM
Message 6
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Does any know where I could get a rubber pipe,2 inches in diameter by
2 inches long.It is to fit in my rotax 914 turbo in between the
carburetor and the air box to the turbo .
G.CHET 914 tri
Herve
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: rubber pipe |
Hi David
I got the last one from europa,but it only lasted 4 hours.I need a stronger one
Regards
HerveAt 10:30 15/09/2008, you wrote:
>
>Herve, Have you tried Europa? Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Herve" <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 10:17 AM
>Subject: Europa-List: Fwd: rubber pipe
>
>
>>
>>>Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 10:16:13 +0100
>>>To: sales@matronics.com
>>>From: Herve <hervechaussures@tiscali.co.uk>
>>>Subject: rubber pipe
>>>
>>>Does any one know where I could get a rubber pipe ,2 inches in
>>>diameter,and 2 inches in length to fit in my rotax 914.it is the
>>>rubber which fit in between the carburetor and the air box to the turbo.
>>>G.CHET 914
>>>Herve
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>Release Date: 9/12/2008 2:18 PM
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: rubber pipe |
Herve a crit :
>
> I got the last one from europa,but it only lasted 4 hours.I need a
> stronger one
Herve,
It is a part related to the engine manufacturer rather than the airframe
manufacturer. Have tried your Rotax importer/dealer ? IIRC the p/n
should appear in the parts catalog.
Also, for those installing an aftercooler, the exchanger core weight
must be adequately supported lest the exchanger or turbo bear the
additional weight.
Those rubber hoses are very similar to radiator hoses, so in a pinch I
would try a radiator/truck store.
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 9
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| Subject: | Filling - Control surfaces |
Say guys...if you can take a walk down memory lane with me for a few
moments, I'd appreciate some feedback.
The other day, while looking for trouble (i.e., a reasonable next step
in my build) I set myself up to skim some dry micro to fill the
trailing edge depressions where the top and bottom skins are bonded
together, thinking that it would be just an afternoon's job which,
after cure, would be followed by some block sanding to knock down the
high spots, and followed by the application of filler over the entire
panels (flaps, ailerons, and trim tabs) to cover the weave. (For this,
I'm planning on using Poly-Fiber's SuperFil rather than Expancel.)
What I've found however, is that filling those depressions is a bit
more of a job than I'd anticipated. Notwithstanding using what I
thought was the stiffest possible mix of micro, I find myself with
numerous low spots thus requiring 2nd and in some cases 3rd
applications of the micro in order to bring those trailing edge
depressions up to the plane of the airfoils. Between coats, I've used
small bits of 150 grit sandpaper around a forefinger so that the
subsequent coat of micro would have a better bond than to simply apply
it over the (glossy) low areas. I've been working under the assumption
that these trailing edges must be dealt with completely before
squeegying on the filler to fill the glass weave over the foam.
I've also been careful when knocking down the high spots to not abrade
the glass fibers on adjacent areas.
Given that each surface has two sides and I've found that the micro
must be applied separately to each side (in multiple coats w/
intervening cure cycles), at this point I'm sitting here wondering:
- Have I made this more complicated than it need be?
- Am I missing something here?
Lookin for either reassurance or a cautionary "heads up",
Fred
A194
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Filling - Control surfaces |
Hi Fred,
I'm sure others will chime in but my two cents are this. Yes you may be
over complicating it. I tried the dry micro in some areas and found it
to be too much epoxy or too hard to sand compared to the structure or
the expancel. After several attempts such as you are doing I just
resigned to roughing everything and applying the expancel thick. Then
blocking it all back down with a large block. In the long run it was
easier. I can't speak for the Super Fill but others I know love the
stuff. For me it was just economics and I had plenty of the expancel
so I used it.
Put it on thick so only one application is needed. Block it down till
you just start to see the weave in spots. If you have any low areas hit
them again with a light sand and more fill. Mixing micro with other
fill material will only cause more work as they sand at different
rates. I hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 150 hours and climbing slowly.
On Sep 15, 2008, at 6:47 PM, Fred Klein wrote:
>
> Say guys...if you can take a walk down memory lane with me for a few
> moments, I'd appreciate some feedback.
>
> The other day, while looking for trouble (i.e., a reasonable next step
> in my build) I set myself up to skim some dry micro to fill the
> trailing edge depressions where the top and bottom skins are bonded
> together, thinking that it would be just an afternoon's job which,
> after cure, would be followed by some block sanding to knock down the
> high spots, and followed by the application of filler over the entire
> panels (flaps, ailerons, and trim tabs) to cover the weave. (For this,
> I'm planning on using Poly-Fiber's SuperFil rather than Expancel.)
>
> What I've found however, is that filling those depressions is a bit
> more of a job than I'd anticipated. Notwithstanding using what I
> thought was the stiffest possible mix of micro, I find myself with
> numerous low spots thus requiring 2nd and in some cases 3rd
> applications of the micro in order to bring those trailing edge
> depressions up to the plane of the airfoils. Between coats, I've used
> small bits of 150 grit sandpaper around a forefinger so that the
> subsequent coat of micro would have a better bond than to simply apply
> it over the (glossy) low areas. I've been working under the assumption
> that these trailing edges must be dealt with completely before
> squeegying on the filler to fill the glass weave over the foam.
>
> I've also been careful when knocking down the high spots to not abrade
> the glass fibers on adjacent areas.
>
> Given that each surface has two sides and I've found that the micro
> must be applied separately to each side (in multiple coats w/
> intervening cure cycles), at this point I'm sitting here wondering:
>
> - Have I made this more complicated than it need be?
>
> - Am I missing something here?
>
> Lookin for either reassurance or a cautionary "heads up",
>
> Fred
> A194
>
>
> --
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
> believed to be clean.
>
>
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