Today's Message Index:
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0. 11:22 PM - Reminder (Matt Dralle)
1. 02:39 AM - Re: W26 lift pin blocks (craig bastin)
2. 04:34 AM - Re: W26 lift pin blocks (Flying Farmer)
3. 05:36 AM - Re: Time to Paint? ()
4. 07:04 AM - Re: Time to Paint? (ALAN YERLY)
5. 10:00 AM - Re: Time to Paint? (rampil)
6. 08:19 PM - Re: Re: Time to Paint? (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
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Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics
Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided
for my your Contributions during this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email
Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
Message 1
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Subject: | W26 lift pin blocks |
I came to the conclusion, that my fuselage must be about 20mm wider than it
should be at the point where the blocks go
rather than it being a fault with my measurements and CM install etc, as the
wings fit the CM etc nicely, and moving the whole
CM over far enough to fix the post side pin would see the problem move to
the other side. What i ended up
doing on the port side was carefully filing out the hole for the pin enough
to allow the w26 block to pass through from the inside
which IMHO will be stronger. I then reduxed it in place (wings rigged at
correct AOA), later i came back and reduxed 2 3mm alloy
spreader plates on the outside so i could bolt right through the whole lot.
I considered getting another w26 made that was 10mm longer
to do the same on the other side. The fit of the pin couldnt be better into
the W26, there is about 2mm clearance between the outside
of the w26 and the face of the wing where the pin screws in, which is the
same as the starboard side. Ill send some pics if you like
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Flying
Farmer
Sent: Thursday, 6 November 2008 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: W26 lift pin blocks
<rpwheelwright@yahoo.co.uk>
Craig,
Did you sort out the problem you had with setting the W26 blocks on your
wings been to far starboard? If so what did you do? I have the same
problem.
Thank You.
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
7:58 AM
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: W26 lift pin blocks |
Craig
Thank you for your reply. I would be grateful of any pictures you have, Thank
You. My situation is the same as yours!!! On the port side I would need to reduce
the W26 by about 5mm and on the Starboard side need to be reduced by about
3mm to get the wing pins to fit as they should. At the moment Im waiting a reply
from Roger at the factory who is getting in touch with Andy Draper. I have
considered your option.
Another suggestion from where the fault is, that the root rib has been built too
far inboard or not gigged correctly when they have been manufactured. A clue
is that your kit number is 554 and my kit number is 557 for the wings. I would
like to know if kit no. 556 had the same problem!!!!
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Time to Paint? |
Mike
When we completed our monowheel, we completed painting the a/c before we had our
first flight. It was still in the shop, and we were in the right frame of mind
to complete the plane with a coat of paint. Once we started flying, we never
had to look back.
A few years later we built a Van's RV 7A, once the a/c was ready to fly, we made
the decision to fly off the 40 hours, before painting.. We ended up with almost
200 hours before we started the paint process.
What a mistake...... We had to bring the a/c back into the shop clean off the grime
and gunk, then we had to take off all the fairing, cowling, wheel paints,
etc (you get the picture)
We had to seal off the cockpit area, as the panel was installed, It took about
a week of all these preparations before we could move the plane to the shop. Then
about a week of prep work before we could start painting.
I would say we lost about six weeks before the plane was ready to fly again...
Jim and Augustene Brown
---- DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
> Good day all,
>
> I just came from my Flight Physical and since I have a real old flying
> doctor, we chatted over my build. When I brought up having to find someone to
> paint my bird or go out and learn to do it myself...and buy the equipment....he
> stated that he and friends that have built 6 planes over the past 10
> years....from Long EZ's to RV's....that they never painted their planes until
after
> they flew off their 40 hours of test flying! This came as a surprise to
> me.....how about to you folks? Pros and Cons would be a big help in the upcoming
> discussion.
>
> Mike Duane A207A
> Redding, California
> XS Conventional Gear
> Jabiru 3300A
> Sensenich R64Z N
> Ground Adjustable Prop
>
> **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other
> Holiday needs. Search Now.
> -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001)
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Time to Paint? |
After nearly eight of these, flying the plane in the raw has pro's and
cons.
Pro:
If you are concerned that the flying qualities are bad and extensive
exterior mods will need to be made, don't paint.
On the Tri-gear, the common mistake is to not allow the moldings to
flex. Flying the gear legs unpainted can show you where you made a
mistake.
Fiberglass requires clearancing for filler and paint. Your wing fillets
will require the sides to be filled to get a good fit. Filler accepts
dirt/grease very well.
Paint adds weight.
Jabiru cooling is a real problem, so do your homework with the other Jab
owners to get your cowl right. Biggest problem is the exit area and oil
cooler allowing the lower cowl to increase pressure. My opinion.
Cons:
Flight characteristics of the stab are different unless smooth and
painted. Not bad, but noticeable.
A Europa which has been built square has rarely needed exterior work,
and if it did, just repaint the area.
Leaks are easy to clean up and don't ruin polyurethane paint.
The Europa wing is susceptible to roughness. If you fly the wing raw
with bumps, don't lift off below 55 knots or she will settle.
With the conventional gear being that far forward and short, the bounces
are, well, sporty to say the least. Try 10-15 degrees of flap to aid in
early control.
General:
Do your work properly during the pre-finishing phase such as:
Make sure all your electrical, fuel and plumbing is correct, tight and
leak free before paint.
Test everything and calibrate your fuel system and make sure the radios
and electrical do-dads all work.
If a clearance looks tight, fill and sand the area and make sure it
clears with allowances for paint.
A Jabiru rarely sheds oil and grease during engine operations.
Clearance your exhaust well, make sure your oil breather is operating
and you won't have problems.
I have always felt that a good flying airplane is assured when the plane
owner makes sure every system is perfect prior to going on to the next
step. Flaps, ailerons, stab and trim systems should be tight and ready
to fly. Shim your aileron QD's and adjust your linkages. Make sure
your liquid systems are tight. Fill the engine with oil and turn it
over, start it if you like and check the systems. Now is the time to
find your wiring problems and ensure all is well. If you are going to
paint before you fly, you will have the burden of making sure your work
is correct.
When is the plane ready to fly...When you are ready to knock on the test
pilots door and tell his wife he is dead, and there was nothing you
could have done to better prepare the aircraft to prevent it.
That philosophy will give you an honest airplane. You will still have
little electrical do-dad glitches and one component not talking to
another, but the engine and flight systems will be sound.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations
(813) 653-4989
----- Original Message -----
From: DuaneFamly@aol.com<mailto:DuaneFamly@aol.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 2:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Time to Paint?
Good day all,
I just came from my Flight Physical and since I have a real old flying
doctor, we chatted over my build. When I brought up having to find
someone to paint my bird or go out and learn to do it myself...and buy
the equipment....he stated that he and friends that have built 6 planes
over the past 10 years....from Long EZ's to RV's....that they never
painted their planes until after they flew off their 40 hours of test
flying! This came as a surprise to me.....how about to you folks? Pros
and Cons would be a big help in the upcoming discussion.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300A
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other
Holiday needs. Search
ir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from-aol-search/
?ncid=emlcntussear00000001>.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Time to Paint? |
hi all
I agree with Terry. Paint before
Bug splats make a good finish
Impossible. My trigear is a most
Efficient bug splatter.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212712#212712
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Time to Paint? |
Well, I want to thank all those who replied.....I have decided to paint
before flight but will go through all the systems before I paint, as per Bud's
reply. That seems to be the most practical way to approach the final stages of
this project.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300A
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
**************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other
Holiday needs. Search Now.
-aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001)
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