Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:47 AM - What's My Contribution Used For? (Matt Dralle)
1. 02:21 AM - Stall strips (James, Clive R)
2. 02:48 AM - Re: Stall strips (David Joyce)
3. 06:56 AM - Re: Tight control stick (danbish)
4. 08:48 AM - Re: Stall strips (pjeffers@talktalk.net)
5. 10:35 AM - Re: Tight control stick (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
6. 11:17 AM - Re: Tight control stick (Fred Klein)
7. 12:03 PM - Non-sucky wing inspection method (rparigoris)
8. 12:26 PM - Re: Tight control stick ()
9. 01:04 PM - Re: Stall strips (Graham Singleton)
10. 01:23 PM - Re: Tight control stick ()
11. 03:02 PM - Re: Tight control stick (Robert C Harrison)
12. 03:34 PM - Re: Tight control stick (rparigoris)
13. 06:20 PM - Remote Oil Pressure (Troy Maynor)
Message 0
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Subject: | What's My Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question.
Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides
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Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Message 1
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Many thanks all for the information on fitting the strips.
I know have a plan, what to look out for and what to avoid.
If I find anything of interest I'll pass it on.
I did suggest a warning device but the Chief engineer feels that the
strips are required even with an alarm device.
Regards, Clive
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Stall strips |
Clive, LAA requirements are for stall strips OR an effective stall warner,
assuming that the natural buffet does not give clear early warning of stalls
in all set ups. As the stall strips cause a degree of degradation of low
speed performance many people chose the stall warner. The one supplied by
Europa is very effective and entirely unobtrusive, and has worked very well
for me.
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "James, Clive R" <clive.james@uk.bp.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 10:20 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Stall strips
> <clive.james@uk.bp.com>
>
> Many thanks all for the information on fitting the strips.
> I know have a plan, what to look out for and what to avoid.
> If I find anything of interest I'll pass it on.
> I did suggest a warning device but the Chief engineer feels that the
> strips are required even with an alarm device.
> Regards, Clive
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Tight control stick |
Thanks guys for the replies. I guess what has me scratching my head is that if
loosening the rear bushing helped, then it isn't necessarily swelling of the hole
that's causing the problem. It seems like it would be either misalignment
or a swelling in the thickness of the rear tufnol block.
What do you think of putting shims in place, front and back, that would keep the
bushing from making contact with the blocks altogether? There's just no way
I can get in to the aft bushings with grinding compound. Shims also may be varied
in thickness that correct any alignment problems.
Thanks,
Dan
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Stall strips |
Hi Clive,
You will find that the LAA are quite happy for you not to? fit stall strips at
all if you instal an approved electrical stall warning system.? The only other
time that stall strips may be a desirable addition is if (and this is not uncommon
particularly on classics) to reduce the tendancy for one wing to stall before
the other ie excessive tendancy to?wing drop at stall.
Pete Jeffers
-----Original Message-----
From: James, Clive R <clive.james@uk.bp.com>
Sent: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 5:20
Subject: Europa-List: Stall strips
Many thanks all for the information on fitting the strips.
I know have a plan, what to look out for and what to avoid.
If I find anything of interest I'll pass it on.
I did suggest a warning device but the Chief engineer feels that the
strips are required even with an alarm device.
Regards, Clive
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Tight control stick |
Good Day Ron,
I was wondering which abrasive compound you were referring to when you
describe it as one that cuts, then polishes, and disappears? I could not find
anything of this nature at McMaster Carr. It sounds too good to be true and I
think would be a God send in certain areas. So could you be more specific?
Thanks in advance.
Mike Duane
**************You Rock! One month of free movies delivered by mail from
blockbuster.com
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Tight control stick |
On Sunday, November 16, 2008, at 06:55 AM, danbish wrote:
> What do you think of putting shims in place, front and back, that
> would keep the bushing from making contact with the blocks altogether?
Dan...I'm unclear as to where or how you might place the shims you
speak of on the assumption that your tufno bearing blocks are already
securely bonded in place.
I do recall my experience when setting the tufnol blocks and fine
tuning their alignment using the AN3 bolts...I found that the alignment
was extremely sensitive to pressure exerted as the bolts were
tightened. The sensitivity was expressed by variance in the ease of
side to side movement of the control sticks.
Fred
A194
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Message 7
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Subject: | Non-sucky wing inspection method |
We came up with a non-sucky inspection method to determine if wing ribs forward
of spar are vented.
See:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album257&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Ron Parigoris
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Tight control stick |
Hi Mike
"I was wondering which abrasive compound you were referring to when you
> describe it as one that cuts, then polishes, and disappears? I could not find
> anything of this nature at McMaster Carr. It sounds too good to be true and
I
> think would be a God send in certain areas. So could you be more specific?"
Here ya go:
Timesaving Lapping and Polishing Powders
These hardworking powders function first as an abrasive and then as a
polish. Plus, they're guaranteed not to embed in any metal surface.
Perfect for fitting and smoothing the bearing or contact surfaces of
rotating, oscillating, and sliding parts.
To use, mix with a thin machine oil (SAE 10 or 20) or heavy gear oil
(see page 2120). Powders do not contain harsh abrasives.
Soft-metal grade is for use on brass, bronze, aluminum, copper, tin,
and other soft metals. Hard-metal grade is for use on steel, cast iron,
stainless steel, and other hard metals.
Please specify grit: coarse (80 for soft metal and 40 for hard
metal), medium (120 for soft metal and 80 for hard metal), fine (220 for
soft and hard metal), or extra fine (320 for soft and hard metal).
1-lb. Cans 5-lb. Cans
Each Each
Soft-Metal Grade 4781A4 $25.24
4781A5 $111.43
Hard-Metal Grade 4781A6 25.24
4781A7 111.43
8-Can Trial Kit One 3-oz. can of each soft-metal and hard-metal grit.
4781A61 Per Kit $73.10
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Page 2635
I used the soft metal grade
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Here is non-staining plumbers lard oil:
Cutting and Threading Oil
Use at full strength in a variety of machining operations.
Mobil Mobilmet 766 and Omega are good for pipe threading applications
and contain sulfur. Omicron, 404, and S122 reduce staining and are
chlorine free and sulfur free. S122 is water soluble.
Heavy Duty These sulfur-based oils are designed for use with ferrous
metals; they can stain nonferrous metals. Use alone or blended with other
oils. Good for pipe-threading applications. Light Colored Allows you to
see your workpiece. Chlorine free. Dark Colored High-lubricity oil allows
increased speeds and is especially effective for machining tough ferrous
metals. Contains chlorine.
Nonstaining Also known as plumber's lard oil, it provides excellent
lubricity for fine surface finishes and extended tool life. Plus, it makes
a great pipe-threading lubricant. Chlorine free and sulfur free.
1 Gallon
5 Gallon
Each
Pkg. Partial Full
Qty. Pkg. Pkg.
Each
Mobil Mobilmet
766 6 2507K11 $22.35 $20.32
2507K12 $86.32
Omega 6 2507K3 22.70 20.64
2507K4 76.02
Omicron 6 2507K5 21.95 19.95
2507K6* 79.53
S122 6 2507K7 21.73 19.59
2507K8 85.00
Heavy Duty
Light Colored 6 2307K26 16.30 14.66
2307K28 60.28
Dark Colored 6 1011K11 16.48 14.83
1011K12 60.91
Nonstaining
Light Colored 6 1308K4 15.64 14.07
1308K2 58.34
* 404.
It's on page 2123
Mix up a bit with lap, works great. You could use other types of oil,
probably pneumatic air tool oil or sewing machine oil would be fine.
Having lard oil around is great. Use on drilling, tapping and sawing all
the time.
Good luck
Ron Parigoris
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Stall strips |
James, Clive R wrote:
>
> Many thanks all for the information on fitting the strips.
> I know have a plan, what to look out for and what to avoid.
> If I find anything of interest I'll pass it on.
> I did suggest a warning device but the Chief engineer feels that the
> strips are required even with an alarm device.
> Regards, Clive
>
I think I agree with the chief engineer. A vicious stall has a very
nasty bite and when the work load gets too high no amount of warning
will be heard
Graham
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Tight control stick |
Hi Mike
One more thing, I just checked container, used the Extra Fine.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Page 2635
I used the soft metal grade
Message 11
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Subject: | Tight control stick |
Hi! Ron/Dan/All
I notice your recommended product is suitable for METALS and I am
concerned that you are using it one of the surfaces which is Tufnol
which does tend to absorb your cutting /polishing fluids.( the "grit"
value is specified which is a word I'd be scared of on an aluminium
tube.) You must be sure to wash it out I was well satisfied that my
Brasso did wash out.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us
Sent: 16 November 2008 20:26
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tight control stick
Hi Mike
"I was wondering which abrasive compound you were referring to when you
> describe it as one that cuts, then polishes, and disappears? I could
not find
> anything of this nature at McMaster Carr. It sounds too good to be
true and I
> think would be a God send in certain areas. So could you be more
specific?"
Here ya go:
Timesaving Lapping and Polishing Powders
These hardworking powders function first as an abrasive and then as a
polish. Plus, they're guaranteed not to embed in any metal surface.
Perfect for fitting and smoothing the bearing or contact surfaces of
rotating, oscillating, and sliding parts.
To use, mix with a thin machine oil (SAE 10 or 20) or heavy gear oil
(see page 2120). Powders do not contain harsh abrasives.
Soft-metal grade is for use on brass, bronze, aluminum, copper, tin,
and other soft metals. Hard-metal grade is for use on steel, cast iron,
stainless steel, and other hard metals.
Please specify grit: coarse (80 for soft metal and 40 for hard
metal), medium (120 for soft metal and 80 for hard metal), fine (220 for
soft and hard metal), or extra fine (320 for soft and hard metal).
1-lb. Cans 5-lb. Cans
Each Each
Soft-Metal Grade 4781A4 $25.24
4781A5 $111.43
Hard-Metal Grade 4781A6 25.24
4781A7 111.43
8-Can Trial Kit- One 3-oz. can of each soft-metal and hard-metal grit.
4781A61 Per Kit $73.10
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Page 2635
I used the soft metal grade
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~
Here is non-staining plumbers lard oil:
Cutting and Threading Oil
Use at full strength in a variety of machining operations.
Mobil Mobilmet- 766 and Omega are good for pipe threading
applications
and contain sulfur. Omicron, 404, and S122 reduce staining and are
chlorine free and sulfur free. S122 is water soluble.
Heavy Duty- These sulfur-based oils are designed for use with ferrous
metals; they can stain nonferrous metals. Use alone or blended with
other
oils. Good for pipe-threading applications. Light Colored- Allows you to
see your workpiece. Chlorine free. Dark Colored- High-lubricity oil
allows
increased speeds and is especially effective for machining tough ferrous
metals. Contains chlorine.
Nonstaining- Also known as plumber's lard oil, it provides excellent
lubricity for fine surface finishes and extended tool life. Plus, it
makes
a great pipe-threading lubricant. Chlorine free and sulfur free.
1 Gallon
5 Gallon
Each
Pkg. Partial Full
Qty. Pkg. Pkg.
Each
Mobil Mobilmet
766 6 2507K11 $22.35 $20.32
2507K12 $86.32
Omega 6 2507K3 22.70 20.64
2507K4 76.02
Omicron 6 2507K5 21.95 19.95
2507K6* 79.53
S122 6 2507K7 21.73 19.59
2507K8 85.00
Heavy Duty
Light Colored 6 2307K26 16.30 14.66
2307K28 60.28
Dark Colored 6 1011K11 16.48 14.83
1011K12 60.91
Nonstaining
Light Colored 6 1308K4 15.64 14.07
1308K2 58.34
* 404.
It's on page 2123
Mix up a bit with lap, works great. You could use other types of oil,
probably pneumatic air tool oil or sewing machine oil would be fine.
Having lard oil around is great. Use on drilling, tapping and sawing all
the time.
Good luck
Ron Parigoris
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Tight control stick |
Hi Bob
The beauty of this lap is it does not use abrasives as you know them. It begins
as a lap, shortly turns to a polish, then disappears. It disappears not because
it is washed out, but breaks down quickly and disolves! the instructions enclosed
in the container states it is even safe to use inside an internal combustion
engine that is not disassembled and cleaned thorough. It guarentees that
it will not continue to cut, it just breaks down quickly and stops cutting completly.
That said you need to keep adding fresh lap if you want to continue cutting,
you can easily tell when it is just polishing. The downside is it makes
a mess so you need to plan for such.
We used the extra fine soft compound. Even if it did not remove any Tufnal at all,
but lapped off a few thousands of aluminium, thats OK. I am confident that
there will be no further cutting.
I just don't know for sure if Chrome polish or Brasso leaves behind anything that
would continue to cut??
Lard oil is pretty clear, just flush till things come clear, then we flushed with
a little alcohol. Did shoot a tiny little bit of fast drying teflon lubricant
after we were done, but not before letting Tufnal live in it for some time
to make sure it would not swell again.
Ron P.
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 13
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Subject: | Remote Oil Pressure |
Hi Folks,
I need help from those of you that have remotely mounted your oil pressure
switch. Can you tell me the size of the fittings and hose and/or manifold
that you used to connect? I plan to mount it on the stbd. footwell along
with a double throw pressure switch that will run a hobbs or the master
light on.
Thanks in advance.
Troy Maynor
N120EU Europa Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Seats, engine install underway, some wiring.
Weaverville, NC USA
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