Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:56 AM - Re: Re: Heaters (Mike Parkin)
2. 11:08 AM - Europa Parts. (Mike Parkin)
3. 11:16 AM - Re: Re: Heaters (ALAN YERLY)
4. 11:52 AM - Re: Re: Heaters (Pete Lawless)
Message 1
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Hi Guys,
I note your comments on the heater system. I have to say that my
experience with the system has shown it is not as effective as you might
imagine. The problem is that it works fine in the climb when the
temperatures are up, but in the cruise, my 914 will cool right down and
then the heater is ineffective.
The cooling system on G-JULZ is just too effective in the cruise and it
concerns me that the engine is running for lengthy periods at temperatures
well below 100degC. I have a modification in progress to introduce a cowl
flap in the cooling air exit in an effort to control the engine
temperatures. If it is effective I am also developing a micro-processor
temperature control system to make the whole system automatic.
If this mod works then, the heater will hopefully become more efficient.
Regards,
Mike
Message 2
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To any interested builders out there. I have a 7 function Mac stick top,
Navaid Wing Leveller Control head, Smart Coupler( for Skymap 3C) and DG
Coupler available.
Used but fully serviceable, any reasonable offer accepted.
Regards,
Mike
Message 3
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I use an expensive and fully lockable cable which holds the flapper shut
because I fear the same problem. That shuts off the fire inlet at the
duct. I draw the air from a low risk fire area, but not a perfect
solution.
If I had regs requiring a stop valve, I would make it from stainless as
a box with a flapper in it. Aircraft Spruce has a heater valve which I
would use as a guide. Theirs is made of aluminum. Let's face it, if
the aluminum melts because of a fire, you're in serious do do.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: G-IANI<mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 11:09 AM
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Heaters
Bud
I have looked at your heater and it is in principal the same as mine
and many others. That is taking the warm air off the rear of the water
radiator. Mine is fitted but not operational (fire wall phenolic is
bolted over the outlets of the SCAT tubes)
The reason for this is that Francis Donaldson (LAA) insists on a fire
stop valve at the point were the tube passes through the fire wall. One
builder, Mike Parkin, has made up some very expensive petal valves to
achieve this. See attached. I am still looking for a cheaper and
simpler solution to these valves.
Obviously US regulation is not the same as ours. What are your
thoughts on a) the need for fire stop valves and b) a simpler cheaper
way of achieving a fire stop?
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 200 hours
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ALAN YERLY
Sent: 21 November 2008 23:26
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: New Europa Website
Jeff,
Working on that with better access for fuel tank, controls, mods or
repairs. The cockpit module is heavy and requires a lot of help to get
it in right and it is very time consuming to build for the novice, and
for the company to construct.
Keep the ideas coming.
Go to my website and download the heater. One inch tubes is all you
need really to keep the plane warm.
Bud
Custom Flight Creations
Message 4
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Bud
Spruce supply a stainless valve as well.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ALAN YERLY
Sent: 23 November 2008 19:11
Subject: Re: Europa-List: RE: Heaters
I use an expensive and fully lockable cable which holds the flapper
shut
because I fear the same problem. That shuts off the fire inlet at the
duct.
I draw the air from a low risk fire area, but not a perfect solution.
If I had regs requiring a stop valve, I would make it from stainless as
a
box with a flapper in it. Aircraft Spruce has a heater valve which I
would
use as a guide. Theirs is made of aluminum. Let's face it, if the
aluminum
melts because of a fire, you're in serious do do.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: G-IANI <mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 11:09 AM
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Heaters
Bud
I have looked at your heater and it is in principal the same as mine and
many others. That is taking the warm air off the rear of the water
radiator. Mine is fitted but not operational (fire wall phenolic is
bolted
over the outlets of the SCAT tubes)
The reason for this is that Francis Donaldson (LAA) insists on a fire
stop
valve at the point were the tube passes through the fire wall. One
builder,
Mike Parkin, has made up some very expensive petal valves to achieve
this.
See attached. I am still looking for a cheaper and simpler solution to
these valves.
Obviously US regulation is not the same as ours. What are your thoughts
on
a) the need for fire stop valves and b) a simpler cheaper way of
achieving
a fire stop?
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 200 hours
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ALAN YERLY
Sent: 21 November 2008 23:26
Subject: Re: Europa-List: New Europa Website
Jeff,
Working on that with better access for fuel tank, controls, mods or
repairs.
The cockpit module is heavy and requires a lot of help to get it in
right
and it is very time consuming to build for the novice, and for the
company
to construct.
Keep the ideas coming.
Go to my website and download the heater. One inch tubes is all you
need
really to keep the plane warm.
Bud
Custom Flight Creations
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