Europa-List Digest Archive

Mon 02/09/09


Total Messages Posted: 25



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:19 AM - Re: Mod 64b - Revised Hi Top (G-IANI)
     2. 03:21 AM - Re: Mod 64b - Revised Hi Top (Frans Veldman)
     3. 04:33 AM - Re: First Flight Kit #A221 - N914XL (Robert Borger)
     4. 04:55 AM - Re: Bouncing Mono Classic (Charlie Laverty)
     5. 06:03 AM - Plenum sockets (Richard Iddon)
     6. 06:33 AM - Re: Plenum sockets (rampil)
     7. 06:33 AM - Re: Plenum sockets (Karl Heindl)
     8. 06:51 AM - Re: Mod 64b - Revised Hi Top (flyingphil2)
     9. 07:34 AM - A caution (Fergus Kyle)
    10. 08:35 AM - Re: First Flight Kit #A221 - N914XL (Jeff B)
    11. 08:43 AM - Re: Plenum sockets (Jeff B)
    12. 08:51 AM - Re: First Flight Kit #A221 - N914XL (Robert Borger)
    13. 09:13 AM - Re: Plenum sockets (Jeff B)
    14. 09:37 AM - Re: Plenum sockets (rick)
    15. 01:54 PM - Re: Plenum sockets (karelvranken)
    16. 02:40 PM - Master Brake Cylinder (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
    17. 02:42 PM - Outrigger mod. (Jim Brown)
    18. 03:53 PM - Re: Master Brake Cylinder (ALAN YERLY)
    19. 04:48 PM - Re: Mod 64b - Revised Hi Top (Rick Stockton)
    20. 05:05 PM - Cooling Shroud (JEFF ROBERTS)
    21. 05:27 PM - Re: Cooling Shroud (Robert Borger)
    22. 06:49 PM - Sun N Fun (Erich Trombley)
    23. 08:41 PM - Re: Cooling Shroud (Michael Grass)
    24. 09:14 PM - Re: Cooling Shroud (Paul Boulet)
    25. 11:19 PM - Re: Cooling Shroud (Greg Fuchs)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:19:13 AM PST US
    From: "G-IANI" <g-iani@ntlworld.com>
    Subject: Mod 64b - Revised Hi Top
    Phil The point you raised are applicable to Mod 64 rather than Mod 64B. Unfortunately when I wrote the changes/additions for 64B I did not revise the basic instructions for fitting the high top. I hope the following help:- a) The rear bulkhead is in the "tail" (ie the lower moulding) so does not change. B) The pitch control stop / pushrod containment. The Main manual Page 20-4 gives the dimensions for the bulkhead. This has never been corrected for the Hi-Top. The upper portion (above the dowel and rubber hose) needs to be (from the drawings I have) 10mm taller. C) The baggage bay rear bulkhead. In the centre (above the middle of the "D" panel) it needs to be 27mm taller. No dimensions are given (see 28-9). To get a good fit you will be shaping it to your aircraft. From memory there is sufficient spare material in the moulding supplied. D) The fuel filler (see 30-2). The filler goes in the normal position relative to the door opening in the upper moulding. The instructions are to trim the rubber hose elbow to fit. There is sufficient material to allow for the 30mm increase in length. Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 200 hours Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear) e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:21:19 AM PST US
    From: Frans Veldman <frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>
    Subject: Re: Mod 64b - Revised Hi Top
    flyingphil2 wrote: > <ptiller@lolacars.com> > > I'm planning on doing Mod 64b in due course. I'm wondering how much > to stick to the manual ahead of this though as I can see the sizes of > various parts being wrong. > > If the top half of the fuselage is raised by 2" at the front, what > happens to the following: > > a. Rear Fuselage bulkhead. > b. Pitch Control Stop / Pushrod > containment bulkhead. I'm assuming you are still building your airplane? Otherwise this modification would be a major surgery. To my experience, the adjustments of these parts is very small, and falls within the "fiddle-range" you would expect anyway (make it slighltly too large and trim as needed). I'm assuming you "test-fit" the top in order to cut these parts to their correct lengths. > c. Baggage Bay rear bulkhead. This one definitely needs some changes. I used 3mm plywood to make an insert. It is attached to the flange of the bulkhead with some bid on both sizes. When installing the bulkhead, it is a good idea to make the plies of BID somewhat larger so at the sides they cover both the insert and the bulkhead. > d. Fuel Filler > pipe. In my situation, this one is flexible enough to fit nicely. BTW, the mod I did was slightly different. It started as a factory installed mod-A (bought the kit from previous owner who had all the factory accelerated options installed) , and when changing to mod-B, I incorporated the changes only halfway. That is; I cut half of the firewall enlargement away, and lowered the window-section also only half-way. I bought the special upper cowling, and also trimmed it to a size halfway between a normal cowling and a raised cowling. Now I still have more panel space (1.5 inch taller firewall), excellent view over the nose (1.5 inch more window at the bottom), quite a "standard" exterior (I found the mod-B too much "aquarium-style" but taste is personal of course), and the windscreen in a little bit more streamlined position than in the standard mod-B. If you would go this route, you will need the normal windscreen, but it takes some carefull cutting and a slight extension of the rear flanges to get it all fitted nicely. Frans


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:33:27 AM PST US
    From: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com>
    Subject: Re: First Flight Kit #A221 - N914XL
    Fred, I know. It sounds simple, but the weather is playing havoc with things right now. I can't find a decent weather window to have an opportunity to fly the thing myself. We have had 20 - 35 mph winds since the morning after the first flight. This morning is rain and SW winds at 15 - 25 mph. Tomorrow is T-bumpers with 15 - 25 winds. Wednesday is winds to 20 mph. Maybe Thursday to fly it myself the first time. Friday is rain again. Saturday is now looking like a possibility and Sunday is rain again. Then I go back to work on the next Monday. If I can get some time in the aircraft between now and Monday, I hope to fly it after work any day weather permits. So we'll see how it goes between now and the end of April. But the spring is always chancy for weather in N. Texas. Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Feb 8, 2009, at 22:53, Fred Klein wrote: > > > On Feb 8, 2009, at 4:14 PM, Robert Borger wrote: > >> Don't I wish I could fly those 40 hours off by SnF!! > > Well Bob, with only an architect's grasp of the math, it seems to me > that you'd only be talking about 40 minutes/day...Fred > > do not archive


    Message 4


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    Time: 04:55:14 AM PST US
    From: "Charlie Laverty" <charleslaverty@googlemail.com>
    Subject: Re: Bouncing Mono Classic
    hi Graham pc problem, sorry you didnt make it this far. If you recieve this ok can you reply? regards Chas ----- Original Message ----- From: "Graham Singleton" <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 5:39 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Bouncing Mono Classic > <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com> > > Justin Kennedy wrote: >> >> I used it in anger landing at Calais one day with a 35kt wind and it >> resulted in an absolute greaser. In actual fact the no wind situation >> is more difficult and the formula works for that too. >> >> I apologise if all this speed stuff is common knowledge but it wasnt >> mentioned in any of the posts on the subject. >> >> Happy Landings >> >> Justin >> >> Justin Kennedy >> >> G-ZTED Europa Classic Monowheel 912S with Airmaster Prop >> > Justin > you also mentioned using a little throttle on finals which I forgot about. > The sink rate is quite high with throttle closed so I would leave power on > until after round out. One less thing to think of during the flare ;-) ? > Graham > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:03:50 AM PST US
    From: "Richard Iddon" <riddon@sent.com>
    Subject: Plenum sockets
    Thanks to all for the ideas re door gas struts. Should be sorted now. Next problem. The sockets on the plenum chamber for my 912S, where they go into the rubber hoses to connect to the carbs, have collapsed somewhat. I guess it is the combination of the heat from the engine softening the glass and it being under compression from the hose clips. I was considering cutting them off and reduxing in a couple of short pieces of 2in. aluminium tube as replacements. Any one else had this problem and how solved? Richard Iddon G-RIXS


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:33:23 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Plenum sockets
    From: "rampil" <ira.rampil@gmail.com>
    Hi Richard, The carb socket area should not see particularly high temperatures. The clamps are probably too tight. Of course, if the plenum pops out in flight, the engine will run very rough. Do you support the plenum on the firewall side of the box? I have a strap of aluminum coming up to a nut plate on the back wall of the plenum. It seems to help support the intake system combined with only moderate tightening of the band clamps -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229324#229324


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:33:23 AM PST US
    From: Karl Heindl <kheindl@msn.com>
    Subject: Plenum sockets
    I simply re-enforced the plastic by inserting aluminum tubes=2C I think the diameter should be 1 7/8 th inch. No need for redux=2C just some heat to get them in. Karl From: riddon@sent.comTo: europa-list@matronics.comSubject: Europa-List: Ple num socketsDate: Mon=2C 9 Feb 2009 14:01:29 +0000 Thanks to all for the ideas re door gas struts. Should be sorted now. Next problem. The sockets on the plenum chamber for my 912S=2C where they go into the rubber hoses to connect to the carbs=2C have collapsed somewhat . I guess it is the combination of the heat from the engine softening the g lass and it being under compression from the hose clips. I was considering cutting them off and reduxing in a couple of short pieces of 2in. aluminium tube as replacements. Any one else had this problem and how solved? Richard Iddon G-RIXS


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:51:27 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Mod 64b - Revised Hi Top
    From: "flyingphil2" <ptiller@lolacars.com>
    Thanks for all the responses. That pretty much answers my questions and so I'll just carry on as per manual but make sure I don't trim anything yet. Regards, Phil Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org


    Message 9


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    Time: 07:34:56 AM PST US
    From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
    Subject: A caution
    With respect, let me say that McMaster-Carr has always treated my orders with care and dispatch. I suspect that the Homeland Security regs, which doubtless override any that were in previous effect, don't know that Oman, the United Arab Emirates, Kuwait, Qatar, and Saudi Arabia are not necessarily close friends with a country that shared US protection from the red hordes, saved some from the Tehran mob, accepted common deadly work in Kandahar and provide them with more oil than all the others combined. I think that's not all they don't know. I have had some support from valued friends but don't wish to involve anyone. I will doubtless acquire my deadly items from Germany where they know how to make things. Canada is becoming a nation of procurers not producers. Many thanks for the offers, team! Ferg


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:35:43 AM PST US
    From: Jeff B <topglock@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: First Flight Kit #A221 - N914XL
    Bob, how about SNF? Jeff Robert Borger wrote: > > Michael, > > I'm looking forward to seeing all the Europa crowd at KOSH this year, > but I don't think I'll be flying the Europa. I'm pretty much committed > to flying a Little Toot Sport Biplane up to KOSH this year. > > Check Six, > Bob Borger > Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S > http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL > Aircraft Flying! > 3705 Lynchburg Dr. > Corinth, TX 76208 > Home: 940-497-2123 > Cel: 817-992-1117 > > > On Feb 8, 2009, at 8:42, Michael Grass wrote: > >> >> Bob, >> >> Congratulations, >> >> Hope we will see you at Oshkosh this year with your Europa. You are a >> great contributor to the Europa community. Keep up the great work and >> enjoy a lot of blue air. >> >> Best regards >> >> Michael Grass >> A266 Trigear (built on hold till the snow is gone) >> Detroit > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >


    Message 11


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    Time: 08:43:38 AM PST US
    From: Jeff B <topglock@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Plenum sockets
    Richard, I replaced the plenum's completely using 1.75" OD thin wall aluminum tube from ACS. I cut the old ones off, inserted the tubing and glassed them in with 2 layers of bid. Tighten them as much as you want, now. They "ain't goin' nowhere"! Jeff - Baby Blue 430+ hrs Richard Iddon wrote: > Thanks to all for the ideas re door gas struts. Should be sorted now. > > > > Next problem. The sockets on the plenum chamber for my 912S, where they > go into the rubber hoses to connect to the carbs, have collapsed > somewhat. I guess it is the combination of the heat from the engine > softening the glass and it being under compression from the hose clips. > > > > I was considering cutting them off and reduxing in a couple of short > pieces of 2in. aluminium tube as replacements. > > > > Any one else had this problem and how solved? > > > > Richard Iddon G-RIXS > > > > > > * > > > * > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >


    Message 12


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    Time: 08:51:36 AM PST US
    From: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com>
    Subject: Re: First Flight Kit #A221 - N914XL
    Depends on weather (to fly off the 40 hrs) and work schedule (may know more about that next week). Sent from my iPhone On Feb 9, 2009, at 10:33, Jeff B <topglock@cox.net> wrote: > > Bob, how about SNF? > > Jeff > > Robert Borger wrote: >> Michael, >> I'm looking forward to seeing all the Europa crowd at KOSH this >> year, but I don't think I'll be flying the Europa. I'm pretty much >> committed to flying a Little Toot Sport Biplane up to KOSH this year. >> Check Six, >> Bob Borger >> Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S >> http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL >> Aircraft Flying! >> 3705 Lynchburg Dr. >> Corinth, TX 76208 >> Home: 940-497-2123 >> Cel: 817-992-1117 >> On Feb 8, 2009, at 8:42, Michael Grass wrote: >>> > >>> >>> Bob, >>> >>> Congratulations, >>> >>> Hope we will see you at Oshkosh this year with your Europa. You >>> are a great contributor to the Europa community. Keep up the great >>> work and enjoy a lot of blue air. >>> >>> Best regards >>> >>> Michael Grass >>> A266 Trigear (built on hold till the snow is gone) >>> Detroit >> --- >> --------------------------------------------------------------------- >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 09:13:24 AM PST US
    From: Jeff B <topglock@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Plenum sockets
    ***CORRECTION*** That should read 2" aluminum tube. Sorry for the fopa... Jeff Jeff B wrote: > > Richard, > > I replaced the plenum's completely using 1.75" OD thin wall aluminum > tube from ACS. I cut the old ones off, inserted the tubing and glassed > them in with 2 layers of bid. Tighten them as much as you want, now. > They "ain't goin' nowhere"! > > Jeff - Baby Blue > 430+ hrs > > Richard Iddon wrote: >> Thanks to all for the ideas re door gas struts. Should be sorted now. >> >> >> >> Next problem. The sockets on the plenum chamber for my 912S, where >> they go into the rubber hoses to connect to the carbs, have collapsed >> somewhat. I guess it is the combination of the heat from the engine >> softening the glass and it being under compression from the hose clips. >> >> >> I was considering cutting them off and reduxing in a couple of short >> pieces of 2in. aluminium tube as replacements. >> >> >> >> Any one else had this problem and how solved? >> >> >> >> Richard Iddon G-RIXS >> >> >> >> >> >> * >> >> >> * >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >


    Message 14


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    Time: 09:37:07 AM PST US
    From: "rick" <rick@amimotormanagement.co.uk>
    Subject: Plenum sockets
    Hi Richard Funnily enough I have found a similar thing had started and was thinking about how to fix! Let me know what you decide. Cheers Rick Rick Morris G-RIKS Tri 500 hours _____ From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Iddon Sent: 09 February 2009 14:01 Subject: Europa-List: Plenum sockets Thanks to all for the ideas re door gas struts. Should be sorted now. Next problem. The sockets on the plenum chamber for my 912S, where they go into the rubber hoses to connect to the carbs, have collapsed somewhat. I guess it is the combination of the heat from the engine softening the glass and it being under compression from the hose clips. I was considering cutting them off and reduxing in a couple of short pieces of 2in. aluminium tube as replacements. Any one else had this problem and how solved? Richard Iddon G-RIXS "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List"http://www.matronics.com/Nav igator?Europa-List "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribution Checked by AVG. 00:00


    Message 15


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    Time: 01:54:43 PM PST US
    From: "karelvranken" <karelvranken@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Plenum sockets
    Richard, What you suppose to do is exactly what I did from the beginning. Make the aluminium tube rough outside for good glueing. I also took another rubber tube of better quality from a racing car shop. Karel Vranken F-PKRL ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Iddon To: europa-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 3:01 PM Subject: Europa-List: Plenum sockets Thanks to all for the ideas re door gas struts. Should be sorted now. Next problem. The sockets on the plenum chamber for my 912S, where they go into the rubber hoses to connect to the carbs, have collapsed somewhat. I guess it is the combination of the heat from the engine softening the glass and it being under compression from the hose clips. I was considering cutting them off and reduxing in a couple of short pieces of 2in. aluminium tube as replacements. Any one else had this problem and how solved? Richard Iddon G-RIXS


    Message 16


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    Time: 02:40:52 PM PST US
    From: DuaneFamly@aol.com
    Subject: Master Brake Cylinder
    Good day All, I was attempting to bleed my brake system but wasn't having too much luck. So I pulled my Jamar master cylinder and found that the large seal nearest the spring was torn to pieces....on BOTH side! I am hoping that this was just an error in insufficient lubrication when reassembling after I tore the master cylinder down to clean out the crude that seemed to be left over after the manufacturing. The part number off the seal is 220-L-4502 along with a 54. If my resources were correct then this should be made of Buna-N (Nitrile) and is compatible with my Hydraulic Fluid 41 Mil-H 5606G. The other seal is marked ADM-45 2110....also Nitrile? So here are my questions: 1) Am I right about the material and the compatibility? 2) Is there a source for me to order replacement seals in the US? 3) Is there a lubricant that I should be using when I reassemble the cylinders? 4) Are people still sanding down the outer edge of the white disc to prevent sticking? 5) Are builders replacing the spring with a stronger one or adding another spring? Thanks in advance for any replies. Mike Duane A207A Redding, California XS Conventional Gear Jabiru 3300 Sensenich R64Z N Ground Adjustable Prop **************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards. AOL Music takes you there. (http://music.aol.com/grammys?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000002)


    Message 17


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    Time: 02:42:11 PM PST US
    From: Jim Brown <acrojim7534@YAHOO.COM>
    Subject: Outrigger mod.
    Several years ago there was a mod from one of the builders, which consisted of- stainless steel tubes,and some washers and grease fittings.This mod would eliminate the side to side play that occurs with useage of the outrig ger legs on the monowheel. These tubes were used to take out the loose play on the bolt that the outrigger pivioted on.- - Over time and 800 hours the bolt has worn the aluminum sideplates to where there is a fair amount of sideplay in the outrigger legs in my plane. - Does anyone have the instructions on how these stainless steel tubes are as sembled on the outrigger ??? - Jim Brown Monowheel N398JB-=0A=0A=0A


    Message 18


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    Time: 03:53:39 PM PST US
    From: "ALAN YERLY" <budyerly@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Master Brake Cylinder
    Mike, Go to www.jamarperformance.com<http://www.jamarperformance.com/> out of California. They have all the prices, new seals, etc. I cleaned mine first and reassembled. On one brake I did find a burr, but not anymore. Just sand it out I do not care to use hydraulic fluid which should require buna seals. Check with Jamar. I prefer Dot 5 (silicone) as any leaks do not create a mess on the interior or exterior and there is no problem with seal compatibility. The problem is that it is tougher to bleed because the bubbles don't move by fluid movement easily. Technique on bleeding (once you get your new seals): Get a syringe which holds about 4 oz of fluid. Any type of pressure container will do, as long as it will not inject air into the fluid when compressing. Put a 1/8 - 3/16 hose (I use urethane) on it and attach to the brake caliper. Open the valve and push the fluid up. Mild pressure of a couple psi is all it takes. You have to have good fittings on your syringe because the fluid is slick and if the hose pops off it will go everywhere. Rotate the brake master on its side and rock it so the cross hole will allow air to go into the reservoir chamber and up to the reservoir. It's 30 minutes for the first one and 3 for the second side. I always make my brake master the highest point in the pressure side to eliminate air bubble chasing. The reservoir needs to be about 3-6 inches above the masters. Bud Yerly Custom Flight Creations Europa Dealer. ----- Original Message ----- From: DuaneFamly@aol.com<mailto:DuaneFamly@aol.com> To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 5:38 PM Subject: Europa-List: Master Brake Cylinder Good day All, I was attempting to bleed my brake system but wasn't having too much luck. So I pulled my Jamar master cylinder and found that the large seal nearest the spring was torn to pieces....on BOTH side! I am hoping that this was just an error in insufficient lubrication when reassembling after I tore the master cylinder down to clean out the crude that seemed to be left over after the manufacturing. The part number off the seal is 220-L-4502 along with a 54. If my resources were correct then this should be made of Buna-N (Nitrile) and is compatible with my Hydraulic Fluid 41 Mil-H 5606G. The other seal is marked ADM-45 2110....also Nitrile? So here are my questions: 1) Am I right about the material and the compatibility? 2) Is there a source for me to order replacement seals in the US? 3) Is there a lubricant that I should be using when I reassemble the cylinders? 4) Are people still sanding down the outer edge of the white disc to prevent sticking? 5) Are builders replacing the spring with a stronger one or adding another spring? Thanks in advance for any replies. Mike Duane A207A Redding, California XS Conventional Gear Jabiru 3300 Sensenich R64Z N Ground Adjustable Prop ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards. AOL Music takes you there<http://music.aol.com/grammys?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000002>. http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi on>


    Message 19


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    Time: 04:48:52 PM PST US
    From: Rick Stockton <aireupora@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Mod 64b - Revised Hi Top
    The major problem I had with the 64B hi-top was the windscreen fitting.- I'm going to have a lot of work getting it to fit correctly.- The rear ba ggage bulkhead fits almost the same as it did before the hi-top mod.- I d id make the push rod bulkhead taller, but not very much. --- On Sun, 2/8/09, flyingphil2 <ptiller@lolacars.com> wrote: From: flyingphil2 <ptiller@lolacars.com> Subject: Europa-List: Mod 64b - Revised Hi Top <ptiller@lolacars.com> Hi, I'm planning on doing Mod 64b in due course. I'm wondering how much to stick to the manual ahead of this though as I can see the sizes of various parts being wrong. If the top half of the fuselage is raised by 2" at the front, what happens to the following: a. Rear Fuselage bulkhead. b. Pitch Control Stop / Pushrod containment bulkhead. c. Baggage Bay rear bulkhead. d. Fuel Filler pipe. I presume that if I build all of the above to the manual then none of them will reach when the top goes on in the raised position. What have people done a bout the items above or does the Mod 64b package include parts to adapt these? Thanks, Phil Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org


    Message 20


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    Time: 05:05:42 PM PST US
    From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
    Subject: Cooling Shroud
    HI All, After dealing with the uneven cooling issues under the Europa cowl, and after looking at how all the new LSA planes are cooling the rotax, I decided to make a cooling shroud or baffle as rotax calls it. I know something like this came with some of the Kits but not mine. After seeing the RV-12 at KOSH I decided to call Lockwood to see what one would cost. We'll the rotax version was $900 + US dollars. So I got the clay out and started making one. It turned out quite nice. All the air from the right intake will be funneled up a 2 inch scat tube to feed the thing. After talking with Jeff B. of Baby Blue fame he thought it would be nice if we could fashion a mold for anyone else wanting one. So before I start the process I thought I'd test the waters on this list. Here is a picture of it. Jeff & I thought if we made such a mold that we could send it around to others wanting to lay up such a shroud. A mold would be a lot easier than the process I went through to make this so if you are interested let me know. Jeff gets first crack at it but we could send it on from there. All interested parties please respond back and we'll see what we can do. It seems to me that better and more even cooling will make a happier engine. Best Regards, Jeff R. A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 176 hours and down for the annual, Mod 71 and a lot of others.


    Message 21


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    Time: 05:27:26 PM PST US
    From: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com>
    Subject: Re: Cooling Shroud
    Jeff R., You have a taker here! I'll be second in line after Jeff B. There seems to be no problem with mine right now, but it's winter. I can already see that one cylinder (#4 of course) is quite a bit hotter than the others. So this is something I want to have in the back pocket when the time comes. Check six, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Feb 9, 2009, at 19:01, JEFF ROBERTS wrote: > HI All, > After dealing with the uneven cooling issues under the Europa cowl, > and after looking at how all the new LSA planes are cooling the > rotax, I decided to make a cooling shroud or baffle as rotax calls > it. I know something like this came with some of the Kits but not > mine. After seeing the RV-12 at KOSH I decided to call Lockwood to > see what one would cost. We'll the rotax version was $900 + US > dollars. So I got the clay out and started making one. It turned out > quite nice. All the air from the right intake will be funneled up a > 2 inch scat tube to feed the thing. > After talking with Jeff B. of Baby Blue fame he thought it would be > nice if we could fashion a mold for anyone else wanting one. So > before I start the process I thought I'd test the waters on this > list. Here is a picture of it. Jeff & I thought if we made such a > mold that we could send it around to others wanting to lay up such a > shroud. A mold would be a lot easier than the process I went through > to make this so if you are interested let me know. Jeff gets first > crack at it but we could send it on from there. All interested > parties please respond back and we'll see what we can do. It seems > to me that better and more even cooling will make a happier engine. > Best Regards, > > Jeff R. > A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 176 hours and down for the annual, Mod 71 > and a lot of others. > > > <Cooling Baffle.jpg>


    Message 22


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    Time: 06:49:36 PM PST US
    From: "Erich Trombley" <erichdtrombley@juno.com>
    Subject: Sun N Fun
    Folks, For those planning on attending Sun N Fun can you tell me are there any shuttles available from either Tampa or Orlando to Lakeland? I would like to camp and as such do not desire to rent a car. Regards, Erich Trombley N28ET Classic Mono 914 ____________________________________________________________ Need cash? Click to get a cash advance. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/PnY6rbt6mK9uy6yPTniE5CNk85jiKgfwi9LGGxMZrbGGjY0ej07Ov/


    Message 23


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    Time: 08:41:12 PM PST US
    From: "Michael Grass" <m.grass@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Cooling Shroud
    Jeff, Looks nice. Please put me on the list. Michael Grass A266 Trigear Detroit ----- Original Message ----- From: JEFF ROBERTS To: europa-list@matronics.com Sent: 2009-02-09 20:01 Subject: Europa-List: Cooling Shroud HI All, After dealing with the uneven cooling issues under the Europa cowl, and after looking at how all the new LSA planes are cooling the rotax, I decided to make a cooling shroud or baffle as rotax calls it. I know something like this came with some of the Kits but not mine. After seeing the RV-12 at KOSH I decided to call Lockwood to see what one would cost. We'll the rotax version was $900 + US dollars. So I got the clay out and started making one. It turned out quite nice. All the air from the right intake will be funneled up a 2 inch scat tube to feed the thing. After talking with Jeff B. of Baby Blue fame he thought it would be nice if we could fashion a mold for anyone else wanting one. So before I start the process I thought I'd test the waters on this list. Here is a picture of it. Jeff & I thought if we made such a mold that we could send it around to others wanting to lay up such a shroud. A mold would be a lot easier than the process I went through to make this so if you are interested let me know. Jeff gets first crack at it but we could send it on from there. All interested parties please respond back and we'll see what we can do. It seems to me that better and more even cooling will make a happier engine. Best Regards, Jeff R. A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 176 hours and down for the annual, Mod 71 and a lot of others. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----


    Message 24


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    Time: 09:14:14 PM PST US
    From: Paul Boulet <possibletodo@YAHOO.COM>
    Subject: Re: Cooling Shroud
    Simply beautiful.- I'd like to have one too Paul Boulet, N914PB- Rotax 914 tri gear --- On Mon, 2/9/09, JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net> wrote: From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net> Subject: Europa-List: Cooling Shroud HI All, After dealing with the uneven cooling issues under the Europa cowl, and aft er looking at how all the new LSA planes are cooling the rotax, I decided to m ake a cooling shroud or baffle as rotax calls it. I know something like this came with some of the Kits but not mine. After seeing the RV-12 at KOSH I decided to call Lockwood to see what one would cost. We'll the rotax version was $900 + US dollars. So I got the clay out and started making one. It turned out quite nice. All the air from the right intake will be funneled up a 2 inch scat tube to feed the thing. After talking with Jeff B. of Baby Blue fame he thought it would be nice if we could fashion a mold for anyone else wanting one. So before I start the pr ocess I thought I'd test the waters on this list. Here is a picture of it. Jeff & I thought if we made such a mold that we could send it around to others wanting to lay up such a shroud. A mold would be a lot easier than the proc ess I went through to make this so if you are interested let me know. Jeff gets f irst crack at it but we could send it on from there. All interested parties plea se respond back and we'll see what we can do. It seems to me that better and more even cooling will make a happier engine. Best Regards, Jeff R. A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 176 hours and down for the annual, Mod 71 and a l ot of others.


    Message 25


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    Time: 11:19:08 PM PST US
    From: "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy@comcast.net>
    Subject: Cooling Shroud
    Hi Jeff, I will probably be interested in it, when I get there, in the build. Regards, Greg HI All, .. A mold would be a lot easier than the process I went through to make this so if you are interested let me know. Jeff gets first crack at it but we could send it on from there. All interested parties please respond back and we'll see what we can do. It seems to me that better and more even cooling will make a happier engine. Best Regards, Jeff R. A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 176 hours and down for the annual, Mod 71 and a lot of others.




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