Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:57 AM - Re: Mod 72 Reamer (Greg Fuchs)
2. 03:56 AM - Re: LED LANDING LIGHTS (rampil)
3. 04:03 AM - Re: Exhaust Lagging (Kingsley Hurst)
4. 06:10 AM - Re: Strobe wiring (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
5. 09:44 AM - Coolant temperature indicator (Frans Veldman)
6. 10:14 AM - Re: Re: Strobe wiring (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
7. 10:25 AM - Re: Coolant temperature indicator ()
8. 10:27 AM - Re: Coolant temperature indicator (danny shepherd)
9. 01:17 PM - Re: Coolant temperature indicator (rampil)
10. 01:18 PM - Re: Strobe wiring (rampil)
11. 01:24 PM - Re: Exhaust Lagging (rampil)
12. 02:03 PM - LED landing lights (CHUCK RHOADS)
13. 02:08 PM - Re: LED LANDING LIGHTS (Duncan & Ami McFadyean)
14. 04:34 PM - tank support layups (Rowland Carson)
15. 04:38 PM - sun n fun (Rowland Carson)
16. 05:10 PM - Re: Coolant temperature indicator (Paul McAllister)
17. 05:17 PM - Re: tank support layups (craig bastin)
18. 11:48 PM - Rigging/Derigging (Roland)
Message 1
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Keep me in mind when finished, I could use it anytime soon as well. The mod
has been sitting around in a plastic bag for quite awhile now, and I should
get them installed.
Regards, Greg Fuchs A050
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Boulet
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 72 Reamer
I have one. Send me the $5 for postage and I'll send it out right away.
Paul Boulet
20512 Little Rock Way
Malibu, CA 90265-5324
I am in need of the Mod 72 reamer. I have seen several change hands from
the
group. Does anyone have one they would make available to me. I will pass
it on
after I use it.
Thanks,
Bill McClellan
A164
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: LED LANDING LIGHTS |
LED high intensity elements are often pulsed to achieve higher
output within thermal constraints hence RFI
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231192#231192
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Exhaust Lagging |
> When the shield is very close to the exhaust, . . . . . .
> The important thing is . . . . . . ..
> Hope this helps a bit.
Sorry this is a little belated Gilles but have been working away this week
and have only just got home.
Many thanks for the above. I'll manage to find some thin Stainless
Steel. I already have plenty of suitable Aluminium AND I have an excellent
pair of tin snips.
A little trivia . . . .
Floods, Fire and Drought over here at the moment.
An area over 5 times the size of Great Britain is under flood.
Many times that is drought stricken and I don't know for sure how much has
been burned out in Victoria.
So, cheers from the land of contrasts.
Kingsley
do not archive
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
In a message dated 2/20/2009 3:02:52 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
europa-list@matronics.com writes:
>>>>>I know that this may be a little late for those of you who have already
bought their strobe power units, but my installation works well without
any interference. I have Whelen equipment and I mounted an HTS power
supply at each wing tip. They are mounted on removable panels on the
bottom surface. There is a weight penalty of about 1 pound compared to a
single HDA power supply in the fuselage but all the high voltage cables
are short and at the tip. No problems.<<<<
Hey John and all,
Follwing the K.I.S.S. principle, I used a single Whelen strobe power supply
mounted to one of the vertical baggage bay support members under the port
side of the baggage bay and my install does not cause any audio interference
whatsoever. Access to the power supply is through the port access cover in the
baggage bay floor. The power supply fires strobes on the wing tips with the
cables routed from the power supply along the bottom side of the baggage bay,
then along the sides of the baggage bay in the cockpit in fiberglass raceways
which extend from the baggage bay bulkhead forward to the rear of the door
sill. I installed these raceways along and over the fuselage seams on the
sides of the baggage bay, covering the seam, as well as providing a conduit for
wiring. The wires then pass down into the backrest and out the side of the
fuselage through grommeted holes in the fuselage sides just behind the spar
opening in the side of the fuselage. The raceways I made were molded over a piece
of 1.5" PVC pipe cut lengthways to produce a 1/3rd round shape. Then with
the PVC taped to a piece of plywood, 3 layers of 'bid were used to make the
molding. A 1/2" flange was left either side of the rounded part to leave a
bonding flange for bonding to the inside side of the fuselage.
My system is quiet as a mouse without the faintest hint of strobe tick. The
secret to keeping your strobes quiet first and foremost is how you ground the
shield wires on the strobe high tension feeder cabling. The shield wires
should be grounded only on the power supply end. I crimped, then soldered a ring
terminal to the shield wire at the power supply end of the strobe wires,
then landed the ring terminal under one of the mounting screws for the power
supply so that the shield wire has continuity with the power supply case (which
is grounded). Do not ground the other end of the shield wire at the light. If
you do, you will create a loop antenna and a host of problems will follow.
I used six pin Molex plugs and sockets at the wing roots and fuselage sides
so that I would be able to disconnect the strobe and Nav light wiring when
the wings are removed. The shield wire must also be carried through at this
point. At the light end, I simply cut the shield wire off even with the cable
jacket and stuck a piece of heat shrink tubing on the strobe cable to make it
look pretty, allowing the strobe feeder wires to carry through a few inches
beyond the cable jacket. The strobe feeder wires exit the end of the heat
shrink, along with the NAV wires which are routed on the outside of the strobe
cable, taped to the strobe cabling about every 6" along the length of the strobe
cable and then carry on to the NAV light. I also installed 6 pin Molex plugs
at the light to make for easy removal of the light if and when it fails, but
the shield does not need to be included here. The plug/socket on the light
end makes for easy removal of the light fixture for replacement of the strobe
and NAV bulbs when the time comes or replacement of the fixture should it
become damaged, but this step could be omitted. Another thing that is very
important is to not route any other wiring with your radio and intercom audio
wires, especially the strobe feeds and the trim motor wiring. Keep all other
wiring separated from your audio wires by at least a few inches.
I've installed Whelen strobe/Nav combo lights, grounding the shield in this
manner, in 3 different airplanes thus far and all three are/were quiet as a
mouse.
Hope it helps!
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
N245E - Flying
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
%3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62)
Message 5
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Subject: | Coolant temperature indicator |
Hi all,
I would like to have an indicator for the coolant temperature. However,
there seems to be no connection point for a temperature sender. It seems
to me that some of you have installed a coolant temperature indicator.
If so, how have you achieved this?
In some of the pictures in the album (forgot which one), I noticed that
there are coolant "tanks" with a sensor hole in it, but mine does not
have this provision.
--
Best regards,
Frans Veldman
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
Hi John
"The secret to keeping your strobes quiet first
and foremost is how you ground the
shield wires on the strobe
high tension feeder cabling."
I HATE YOU!!! Buying a
Whelen power supply that dosen't exhaust noise form anywhere and
everywhere. What sort of homebuilder are you? Not wanting to spend weeks
tangling with noise.
>From what I now understand, first and
foremost is choosing a power supply that is quiet. Believe it or not on
the Kunzleman, the quietiest thing about it is the high voltage output! I
am not saying that if you don't ground the high voltage shield to box
ground you won't get a little noise, but it is nothing compared to what
comes out of the box, or what gets onto the power lines and radiates into
the antenna and will get right into the cable if the cable is paralleled
to power lines.
One thing we found out, is shielded cable is a
much better antenna than twisted pair for the supply line!
We
ended getting two Kuntzleman power supplies and are mounting them at
wingtips. Makes no difference BTW if i use 12" or 25 feet of the wire
supplied by Kuntzleman for high voltage, just that if you don't ground it,
it makes a little noise and if battery runs down a little, will stop
double flashing quicker with longer high voltage run.
Fooling
last night got box to stop breaking squelch with antennaat about 4
feet, so that is fine with power supplies mounted by wingtips.
Fooling with various chokes and capacitors, got twisted pair going to
battery to only break squelch if antenna is about 12" away.
We also found that connecting the scope probe that is not
connected to the scope completly eliminates all noise in radio! Art fooled
on line a bit to figure out what is in probe, will get some more stuff to
fool with.
Don't have proper torroids or capacitors, but thus
far looks like will be able to lick RF jumping off power lines.
Bob N. from Aeroelectric sent out some filters to try out as well. Gut
feeling is they will do the trick @ 2.9 oz each.
Local IA
swears by Whelen in TC, said he has noise problems with all others. I am
gonna have to grab a plane taxing by and throw scope on it just to see,
the Kuntzleman has hash and sharp peaks. Choke we triedeliminates
all hash, sharp peaks need just a little more work.
Ron
Parigoris
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Subject: | Re: Coolant temperature indicator |
Hi Frans
You use a 2 inch aluminium Pipe with a sensor, similar to
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=ROAD&pcode=GLOHA25
You fit this on the outlet pipe on top of the engine as high as you can,
this will give you the most accurate readings,
regards
Ivor
---- Frans Veldman <frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I would like to have an indicator for the coolant temperature. However,
> there seems to be no connection point for a temperature sender. It seems
> to me that some of you have installed a coolant temperature indicator.
> If so, how have you achieved this?
> In some of the pictures in the album (forgot which one), I noticed that
> there are coolant "tanks" with a sensor hole in it, but mine does not
> have this provision.
>
> --
> Best regards,
> Frans Veldman
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Coolant temperature indicator |
Hi Frans,
I fitted a coolant temperature gauge from Skydrive UK.
skydrive.co.uk The complete kit was about 50 UK pounds. Works very well.
Danny G-c.e.r.i
Frans Veldman wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I would like to have an indicator for the coolant temperature. However,
> there seems to be no connection point for a temperature sender. It seems
> to me that some of you have installed a coolant temperature indicator.
> If so, how have you achieved this?
> In some of the pictures in the album (forgot which one), I noticed that
> there are coolant "tanks" with a sensor hole in it, but mine does not
> have this provision.
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Coolant temperature indicator |
Lockwood and CPS also such items. You have to simply slice the coolant hose, remove
an inch or so, insert the T-adapter in place of the slice, and
install the transducer which is usually NPT.
Your local Rotax dealer should have the parts
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231256#231256
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
Come now Ron,
Don't you remember the total lack of noise on my radios also?
I have a Whelan comet flash too.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231257#231257
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Exhaust Lagging |
Hi Jeff,
Included in my exhaust saga was a cracked heat shield as well.
When the entire exhaust system was replaced, the new shield was
redesigned to prevent what were analyzed to be thermal expansion
induced cracks. The new system is still Aluminum from the OEM, but no
sign of cracks in the past 50 hours of flight time.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231258#231258
Message 12
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Subject: | LED landing lights |
=0A-For those that were interested in finding our more information about
the LED landing lights from Whitney I will try again to send the web page.
=0Ahttp://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductBrowse?storeId=10101&Pr=p_
Product.CATENTRY_ID:2017635&productId 17635&catalogId=10101=0A=0AGood
luck and if you find the solution for the interference please let me know.
=0A=0AChuck Rhoads=0AA100- N246CR=0A=0A=0A
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: LED LANDING LIGHTS |
The difference is that a HID light (typcally of 35watts) would drain
about 3 amps, not 0.5amp, and burn-off your retinas!.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: CHUCK RHOADS
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 1:16 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: LED LANDING LIGHTS
Craig,
J.C. Whitney advertised them as LED lights; however, that doesn't
mean a whole lot. How do you tell the difference?
__________________________________________________________
Chuck Rhoads
cfrhoads@yahoo.com
322 Links Dr.
Simpsonville, KY 40067
(502) 410-1357
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: craig bastin <craigb@onthenet.com.au>
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 6:06:49 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: LED LANDING LIGHTS
are you sure your lights are LED, in theory LED should offer nil EM
interference. Maybe HID???
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of CHUCK RHOADS
Sent: Thursday, 19 February 2009 12:36 PM
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Europa-List: LED LANDING LIGHTS
Since I have always been unhappy with the output of my landing
lights and their large appetite for power, I was happy to find some LED
lights that looked very promising. The lights from J.C. Whitney use
about .5 amps and their output is MUCH better than the old halogen ones.
Every thing is great until I try to transmit and then there is a huge
amount of interference.
Any suggestions?
Chuck Rhoads
A100 Louisville, KY
110 hours
__________________________________________________________
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Message 14
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Subject: | tank support layups |
Done it again - come up against a query on a Friday after the factory
tech help has gone off for the weekend!
I'm trying to set up the tank for the T-shaped support layups.
(1) the tunnel in the tank and the one in the cockpit module baggage
area differ in level by about 30mm; the manual shows them
more-or-less level with a layup sailing across. Also, the profiles of
the tunnel are quite different on the tank and CM which makes the
step bigger in places. I've put in the recommended 20mm spacer
between the headrest area and the tank, and the bottom of the tank is
almost flush with the bottom of the cockpit module, so things are
correctly aligned there. Have I positioned something wrong, or is it
OK to have a 30mm joggle in the layup?
(2) how have people done the parts of the number 2 & number 3 layups
that go between the tank and the CM? Seems they would need to be put
in position with the tank slightly displaced from its correct
position to allow room to work, but shifting the tank around doesn't
seem a good idea if the number 1 layup at the front of the tank is
already done.
Any ideas?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson LAA #16532 http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/
| 1190 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail <rowil@clara.net>
Message 15
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I'm considering purchasing a Trutrak single-axis autopilot, and
wondering in the light of recent postings about the difficulty of
exporting strategic material outside of USA borders whether someone
from UK attending Sun n Fun might be prepared to pick it up and bring
it back with them. The Trutrak people say they don't sell or deliver
any goods at the exhibition but they are happy to ship to a US
address for pickup there. Is there anyone likely to be staying at a
known address long enough to cover the likely delivery window?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson LAA #16532 http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/
| 1190 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail <rowil@clara.net>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Coolant temperature indicator |
Hi Frans,
I suspect that picture you saw of a coolant tank with a sensor mounted
in it was a modified unit that Cliff Shaw made. I did something
similar. I took my tank to the Lincoln Welder demonstration stand
last year at the Oshkosh airshow and had them weld a patch of aluminum
on it to make it thicker so I could put a NPT thread in it. Although
this approach is more elegant than putting in a T in the host, it does
require a whole lot more effort.
Just as an FYI, Grand Rapids also sell a T along with the appropriate sensor.
Regards, Paul
Message 17
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Subject: | tank support layups |
Yes mine was the same in the tunnel area, some areas being about 30mm out. I
just blended it out
as best as possible. I put a small amount of flox in these areas to help
with the radius. As for the T layups
I just spread the gap slightly by reducing the packing under one end of the
CM to allow access into the area
for the layup, then replaced the packing to close the gap again. hope this
is some help
craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rowland Carson
Sent: Saturday, 21 February 2009 10:28 AM
Subject: Europa-List: tank support layups
Done it again - come up against a query on a Friday after the factory
tech help has gone off for the weekend!
I'm trying to set up the tank for the T-shaped support layups.
(1) the tunnel in the tank and the one in the cockpit module baggage
area differ in level by about 30mm; the manual shows them
more-or-less level with a layup sailing across. Also, the profiles of
the tunnel are quite different on the tank and CM which makes the
step bigger in places. I've put in the recommended 20mm spacer
between the headrest area and the tank, and the bottom of the tank is
almost flush with the bottom of the cockpit module, so things are
correctly aligned there. Have I positioned something wrong, or is it
OK to have a 30mm joggle in the layup?
(2) how have people done the parts of the number 2 & number 3 layups
that go between the tank and the CM? Seems they would need to be put
in position with the tank slightly displaced from its correct
position to allow room to work, but shifting the tank around doesn't
seem a good idea if the number 1 layup at the front of the tank is
already done.
Any ideas?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson LAA #16532 http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/
| 1190 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail <rowil@clara.net>
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
07:26:00
Message 18
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Subject: | Rigging/Derigging |
Hi all!
I'm interested in buying a Europa XS Trigear. I have the opportunity to keep it
at home.
Since the factory advertises it as no problem, rigging the aircraft within 5 Minutes
and drive home with it, this is really an issue to reduce the running costs.
Onother advantage would be the possibility to fill up the tank at the filling
station much cheaper and do maintanance at home.
Is there anyone of you who rigs his aircraft before any flight? How long does it
take you from the trailer in the air and is it inevitable doing this with two
persons?
Any comments most welcome!
Roland
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
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