Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:09 AM - Re: Rigging/Derigging (Roland)
2. 03:36 AM - Vacuum Regulator adjustment? (Robert C Harrison)
3. 08:26 AM - Thermal characteristics: Epoxy vs Vinylester (rampil)
4. 08:38 AM - Re: Re: Strobe wiring (Frans Veldman)
5. 09:03 AM - Re: Re: Strobe wiring (Rowland Carson)
6. 09:51 AM - Re: Re: Strobe wiring (Fred Klein)
7. 09:54 AM - Re: Comm Antenna installation (Fred Klein)
8. 10:28 AM - Re: Comm Antenna installation (Jeff B)
9. 11:06 AM - AOA (Rick Stockton)
10. 02:15 PM - Re: Coolant temperature indicator (Graham Singleton)
11. 02:38 PM - SV: Coolant temperature indicator (Sidsel og Svein Johnsen)
12. 02:49 PM - Re: Mod 72 Reamer (Greg Fuchs)
13. 06:22 PM - Re: LED LANDING LIGHTS (rparigoris)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Rigging/Derigging |
Thanks a lot for telling your experiences, that make me quite optimistic that my
plan will work out in real life. Since I will buy a used aircraft, I won't have
any influence on on the building process. It seems to me, like I should then
set one focus on the rigging, though some mods are retrofittable.
Richard, thanks for your offer, but I'm looking for a european registrated XS Trigear
and not by now.
Happy landings
Roland[/quote]
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 2
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Subject: | Vacuum Regulator adjustment? |
Hi! all
I'm needing to adjust my vacuum system to increase the vacuum.
Can anyone tell me which way to adjust the regulator screw? My
inclination is to screw it out thereby increasing the flow for the
vacuum pump to drag since the regulator is the last in line to the pump.
Is this correct ?
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
Message 3
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Subject: | Thermal characteristics: Epoxy vs Vinylester |
This topic came up recently in regard the an engine cooling shroud.
The table I enclose is from a college text on Composite Engineering
and would seem to indicate that epoxies have higher operating temps
than esters and vinylesters.
Anyone know specifically which ester system Europa used in its moldings?
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231497#231497
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/optemps_142.png
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
rampil wrote:
>
> Come now Ron,
>
> Don't you remember the total lack of noise on my radios also?
> I have a Whelan comet flash too.
Because of the discussion about strobe noise, I got slightly worried so
I decided to test my setup, which was just finished. I was particularly
worried since I have a high power strobe, with one strobe bulb on the
fin, just a short distance away from the antenna...
So, today was strobe testing day.
I have an AVI-PAK strobe power supply, probably the most powerfull
strobe unit available (51.5 joules / 70 Watts).
Mounted under the ceiling just behind the D-panel.
I have three strobes: one on the fin, and two at the wingtips. The one
on the fin gets the most power, it alternates with the wingtip strobes
which share the power together.
Radio is a Garmin (Apollo) SL-30, plus a Vertex handheld.
Antenna is home-built, mounted in the fin, quite similar to the
Europa-antenna, but just a little bit more broadband.
The wiring for the strobes: From the strobe power supply directly via
the top to the fin. For the wingtips, the wiring goes via the back of
the doors to the rear wing pin, where I have installed a connector.
The rest of the cables of the airplane (including coax) are located on
the bottom.
Results:
Strobes at full power did not break the squelch. Neither on the Garmin
SL-30, neither on the Vertex handheld radio.
Next test was with squelch open. Strobe system was not audible at all.
NAV system (VOR and glidescope) could not be tested as there is no VOR
within receiving distance.
So far I'm happy with the result. :-D
I think the key of all this is:
1) Proper shielding of the cables. All strobe lines are shielded at the
housing of the strobe power supply, and nowhere else (also not at the
end near the strobe bulbs).
2) Keeping the setup symmetrical (hence the location underneath the
center of the top).
3) Keep coax and strobe cables as far as possible separated.
4) Ground and power leads for the strobe are not shared with anything
else. Even the navigation lamps (same housing as strobes) have their own
power leads, which follow a different routing than the strobe cables.
5) Make sure the antenna is tuned properly, and the coax cable properly
RF-decoupled.
About the latter: I have the coax cable run through torroids near the
antenna, and near the rear bulkhead I have some of the cable tightly
coiled up (ten turns) on a lightweight 5cm plastic tube. This to block
any RF travelling on the outer part of the coax. This blocks radiation
inside the airplane, and also reduces sensitivity for noise generated
inside the airplane. I think decoupling near the antenna is not enough,
as the coax will pick up RF again just behind the torroids because of
its close distance to the antenna. Hence the additional coil near the
rear bulkhead.
--
Frans Veldman
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
At 2009-02-22 17:36 +0100 Frans Veldman wrote:
>I have the coax cable run through torroids near the
>antenna, and near the rear bulkhead I have some of the cable tightly
>coiled up (ten turns) on a lightweight 5cm plastic tube
Frans - what type of cable are you using? I understand some coax will
not like a bend radius as tight as 25mm.
I appreciate your thorough description of your installation and the
good results it gives.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson http://home.clara.net/rowil/
| <rowil@clara.net> ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
Frans...thank you for your clear description of your system and its
performance.
On Feb 22, 2009, at 8:36 AM, Frans Veldman wrote:
>
> I have three strobes: one on the fin, and two at the wingtips. The one
> on the fin gets the most power,
>
> The wiring for the strobes: From the strobe power supply directly via
> the top to the fin.
> 4) Ground and power leads for the strobe are not shared with anything
> else. Even the navigation lamps (same housing as strobes) have their
> own
> power leads, which follow a different routing than the strobe cables.
Did you separate the strobe wiring for your wingtip from that for your
position lights? Do you then have separate connectors for your strobes
and position lights at the wing root?
I too have a tail strobe...a nice little combo (strobe/LED position)
unit from Kuntzelmann. It came with 25 feet of 5 wire shielded cable...
3 for the strobe; 2 for the LEDs...
You seem to be suggesting that it would be best practice to toss the 5
wire cable and use separate 3 wire shielded for the strobe and route
it separate from the position light wiring.
Please confirm,
Fred
A194
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Subject: | Re: Comm Antenna installation |
On Jan 22, 2009, at 7:20 AM, Jeff B wrote:
> I installed the Bob Archer "Big E" toward the rear of the fuse, on
> the port side. Always had great reception...
Hey Jeff,
Did you bend the "Big E" to the radius of the fuselage, or did you
fabricate some kind of internal vertical fin so as to have the antenna
maintain its verticality?
Fred
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Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Comm Antenna installation |
Arched it to fit the inside of the fuse and glassed it in. It's just
aft of the mass balance weight in the port side.
Jeff
Fred Klein wrote:
>
>
> On Jan 22, 2009, at 7:20 AM, Jeff B wrote:
>
>> I installed the Bob Archer "Big E" toward the rear of the fuse, on the
>> port side. Always had great reception...
>
> Hey Jeff,
>
> Did you bend the "Big E" to the radius of the fuselage, or did you
> fabricate some kind of internal vertical fin so as to have the antenna
> maintain its verticality?
>
> Fred
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
Message 9
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I remember reading some of the comments about having an AOA installed in th
e airplane and I have been seriously looking at the MLG Odyssey unit for my
plane.- I notice for the first time that it come with an AOA, but does n
ot include it in the kit.- It appears to be two hoses that connect behind
the unit.-
-
The question-I have is what unit/manafactor would be good with this unit.
- I see that Europa has one for 99 pounds/141 USD, but that includes ever
ything.- I searched the web and I'm seeing prices from 141 to over five h
undred dollars.- I think it is only a tube between the leading edge and t
he bottom of the wing.-
-
Anybody have any suggestions?
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Coolant temperature indicator |
Paul McAllister wrote:
> If your airplane isn't flying yet, then the effort is a lot less, if
> it were me I'd probably just go do it.
>
> Regards, Paul
So would I! Pity Rotax and Europa didn't warn us about the boiling
point of 50/50 glycol too :-(
Graham
Message 11
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Subject: | Coolant temperature indicator |
- and so did I, and connected it to Grand Rapids EIS, one of
the
spare input channels. It took some trial and error, with the sensor
immersed in boiling hot water and at lower temperature, to find the two
parameters to insert into the GR for fairly accurate reading (not linear
output over the entire range, so the upper one is the more important, of
course). I inserted the T with the sensor in the coolant hose going
from
top of the aft right cylinder (the highest CHT on my 912 ULS) to the
black
collector tank on top of the engine. I operate on 50/50 water/glycol,
and
it is nice to have a good read on the coolant temperature, even though
only
from one cylinder. It will very quickly pick up any malfunction in the
common cooling system.
Svein
LN-SKJ
_____
Fra: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] P=E5 vegne av danny
shepherd
Sendt: 20. februar 2009 19:26
Til: europa-list@matronics.com
Emne: Re: Europa-List: Coolant temperature indicator
Hi Frans,
I fitted a coolant temperature gauge from Skydrive UK.
skydrive.co.uk The complete kit was about 50 UK pounds. Works very well.
Danny G-c.e.r.i
Message 12
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Thanks Paul,
I will contact you offsite.
Regards,
Greg
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Boulet
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 2:32 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 72 Reamer
It looks like you're it! I had my mod professionally done by Phoenix
Composites...cost me plenty but certainly had no headaches. Send me the $5
and I'll post it out same day
Paul Boulet
20512 Little Rock Way
Malibu, CA 90265
--- On Fri, 2/20/09, Greg Fuchs <gregoryf.flyboy@comcast.net> wrote:
From: Greg Fuchs <gregoryf.flyboy@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 72 Reamer
Keep me in mind when finished, I could use it anytime soon as well. The mod
has been sitting around in a plastic bag for quite awhile now, and I should
get them installed.
Regards, Greg Fuchs A050
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Boulet
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 72 Reamer
I have one. Send me the $5 for postage and I'll send it out right away.
Paul Boulet
20512 Little Rock Way
Malibu , CA 90265-5324
I am in need of the Mod 72 reamer. I have seen several change hands from
the
group. Does anyone have one they would make available to me. I will pass
it on
after I use it.
Thanks,
Bill McClellan
A164
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Message 13
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Subject: | Re: LED LANDING LIGHTS |
Hi Chuck
We did some more testing on Sunday, the regulator is just a buck switching regulator,
no pulse for greater light output.
Info detailed at:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album271&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=1
Get the hash down and your radio will be happier.
Ron Parigoris
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
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