Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:13 AM - Re: Re: Strobe wiring (Frans Veldman)
2. 02:26 AM - Re: Re: Strobe wiring (Frans Veldman)
3. 03:03 AM - Vacuum Regulator adjustment? (Remi Guerner)
4. 03:10 AM - Coolant temperature indicator (Remi Guerner)
5. 04:00 AM - Re: Vacuum Regulator adjustment? (Robert C Harrison)
6. 04:06 AM - Re: Strobe wiring (rparigoris)
7. 06:23 AM - Re: Re: Strobe wiring (Frans Veldman)
8. 08:30 AM - Aircraft Respraying. (Mike Parkin)
9. 08:44 AM - Re: Rigging/Derigging (mike gamble)
10. 10:20 AM - Re: Re: Strobe wiring (Fred Klein)
11. 01:56 PM - Re: Rigging/Derigging (John Heykoop)
12. 06:39 PM - Antennae. (was strobe wiring) (Mike Parkin)
13. 10:50 PM - Re: tank support layups (Greg Fuchs)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
Fred Klein wrote:
> Did you separate the strobe wiring for your wingtip from that for your
> position lights? Do you then have separate connectors for your strobes
> and position lights at the wing root?
I also received a 5 wire cable, but did not use it. Instead, I used
separate cables for the strobes and LEDs. It was lighter as well, as the
5-wire cable I received was rather heavy.
Think about it this way: The purpose of the shield of the cable is to
shield the outside world from the bad things happening on the inside of
the cable. But if you put the ground wire and power supply for the LED's
within this enclosure, these wires are not shielded for the bad things
happening on the adjacent wires, and they will happily pick up all noise
and bring it into your electrical system.
And yes, my strobe/LED combo's already had separate connectors for the
strobes and LED's.
For the electrical connection between the wings to the fuselage I use a
single 24 pole connector, one half of it bolted to the fuselage, the
other half on a flexible cable emerging near the wing spar. In this
cable, everything runs closely together, but only for a short distance.
And of course, the strobewires are still shielded.
Oh, and I forgot to mention it because I thought it to be obvious, but
now I think about it maybe not: As the shield is to be connected to the
strobe power supply housing only, and nowhere else, you need at least a
4 pole connector between the wing and fuselage. The shield is to be
treated as a seaparate wire onces it leaves the strobe power supply. If
you were to use a 3 pole connector between fuselage and wing, and
reattach the shield to ground at that point, you defeat the whole
purpose of the shield between the strobe power supply and wing
connector. This will create a lot of electrical noise within the
aircraft. Maybe this is why some people experience so much problems with
a in-fuselage-mounted strobe power supply?
Maybe you wonder why I used 24 pole connectors: It soon adds up. 4 wires
for the strobe (including shield). 2 wires for the position lights. Then
some wires for the aileron trim, provisions to install a heated pitot
heat in the future, and a shielded cable for a future camera mount on
the wing. Further a short-cut between two pins, so I can install a
warning lamp that lights up when the wing connectors are not properly
connected.
The connector on the fuselage is also used to connect to ground power
13,7 Volts when the airplane is not rigged. This way I keep the
batteries topped up during storage, and also have a few power resistors
inside that generate a tiny amount of heat, just enough to keep moisture
out of the ship. And it makes it easy to play with the electronics on
board, without having to worry about the batteries.
You might think about all this before closing the wings. It is good to
have some spare wires inside the wings. ;-)
--
Frans Veldman
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
Rowland Carson wrote:
>> I have the coax cable run through torroids near the
>> antenna, and near the rear bulkhead I have some of the cable tightly
>> coiled up (ten turns) on a lightweight 5cm plastic tube
>
> Frans - what type of cable are you using? I understand some coax will
> not like a bend radius as tight as 25mm.
Just some regular RG-58.
The problem with bending too much is that it pulls the center conductor
off its center. This will theoretically create a little bit of loss.
However, if you don't do this over a very long distance, and especially
over the frequencies we aviators use, the loss is neglicible. Higher
frequencies (like your transponder is using) are much more prone to
losses. For VHF, don't worry about cable losses.
--
Frans Veldman
Message 3
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| Subject: | Vacuum Regulator adjustment? |
Bob,
Based on my personnal notes, screwing out reduces the vacuum. In my
installation one turn equals one In.Hg approx.
Regards
Remi
>>>>>Can anyone tell me which way to adjust the regulator
screw?<<<<<<<<<
Message 4
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| Subject: | Coolant temperature indicator |
I am just curious to know how the coolant temp reading compares to the
cyl 3 CHT reading.
Regards
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL
Message 5
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| Subject: | Vacuum Regulator adjustment? |
Remi
Thanks for the advice. Seems to be one of the options that sails against
my reasoning ..but not knowing how the regulator works ???????
That probably indicates why it is reading lower than "in the green"
since I last adjusted it on installation of the Rotax and new pump .
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Remi
Guerner
Sent: 23 February 2009 11:00
Subject: Europa-List: Vacuum Regulator adjustment?
Bob,
Based on my personnal notes, screwing out reduces the vacuum. In my
installation one turn equals one In.Hg approx.
Regards
Remi
>>>>>Can anyone tell me which way to adjust the regulator
screw?<<<<<<<<<
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
Hi Frans
"I have the coax cable run through torroids near the
antenna, and near the rear bulkhead I have some of the cable tightly
coiled up (ten turns) on a lightweight 5cm plastic tube. This to block
any RF travelling on the outer part of the coax. This blocks radiation
inside the airplane, and also reduces sensitivity for noise generated
inside the airplane. I think decoupling near the antenna is not enough,
as the coax will pick up RF again just behind the torroids because of
its close distance to the antenna. Hence the additional coil near the
rear bulkhead."
If you don't mind I have a few questions:
*I have a Bob Archer big "E" model SA-006 in the vertical fin for Becker transceiver,
will adding torroids decrease performance of this antenna? Will adding
10 turns to this antenna decrease it's performance?
*Same question as prior but using Advanced Aircraft Electronics Dipole antenna?
(someone said it is a folded dipole??)
*I understand you did 10 turns at rear bulkhead to deal with strobe RF near that
location. The antagonist on my install is the DC power wires of two Kuntzleman
power supplies mounted at the wingtips. I have an aft mounted battery, and
will have strobe power supply wires meeting up with battery cables just about
at the passenger headrest. The positive battery cable will run on the starboard
seam of fuse. I want to run my two radio antenna cables along side my fat wire
#4 aluminium positive battery cable forward. In my case would it be preferable
to do 10 turns and torroids after antenna cable parts company paralleling
battery wire (near radio)?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
BTW 100n capacitor/s helped alittle for noise in radio and a little for largest
spike looking on scope. The torroid helped a little with noise in radio and a
lot with lower frequency noise looking at scope. I need to order some more torroides
as I think what I had on hand was a little too big.
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
rparigoris wrote:
> If you don't mind I have a few questions: *I have a Bob Archer big
> "E" model SA-006 in the vertical fin for Becker transceiver, will
> adding torroids decrease performance of this antenna? Will adding 10
> turns to this antenna decrease it's performance?
This works with all antenna's. In a good design, the antenna-cable is
passive, is just to transfer the RF energy, and is not used to radiate
it. However, the electrons do not always understand our intentions, and
will happily follow the outside of the coax cable, if the antenna is not
pure symmetrical. Torroids/coils block the radiation of the outside of
the coax cable.
I would toss the Bob Archer antenna away, for the following reasons:
1) A half-wave dipole antenna is the best radiator. The Bob Archer
E-antenna is nice for airplanes where there is no room for a dipole
antenna. But in the vertical fin of the Europa, there is enough space
for a half-wave dipole antenna. Despite its simplicity, nothing really
beats a half-wave dipole antenna. Anything with a different shape is
always a compromise. It is just a matter of physics, despite all kind of
marketroids trying to tell you into something different. The Bob Archer
antenna can be a fine antenna, if you lack the size for a normal dipole
antenna, but this does not apply to the Europa.
2) The best place in the Europa for a VHF antenna is in the vertical
fin. This is the location which has the best separation from all kind of
noise sources, keeps the radiation as far as possible away from
sensitive electronics in the instrument panel, and keeps the antenna as
far away as possible from variable influences (crew, luggage, fuel)
which can dynamically alter the VSWR and radiation pattern. Also, there
are not many (none!) cables which must pass the antenna, as all other
electronics is located before the fin. The Bob Archer antenna does not
fit into the fin, forcing you to use a less optimal antenna location.
3) The standard polarization of aviation communications is vertical
(hence the vertical orientation of the antenna). Any antenna with bend
shapes in the "dipole-section" introduces some horizontal component in
the polarization. This energy is useless, as the station on the other
end will only receive/transmit the vertical component. Worse, most of
the electrical noise in our little airplanes comes from horizontal
orientated cables, and are transmitting horizontal polarised noise. By
keeping the antenna as vertical as possible, you null out most of the
noise sources. And during transmissions, a pure vertical antenna does
not induce much RF in horizontal orientated cables.
I suspect that a Bob Archer antenna has a strong horizontal element, so
stay away from it, unless you have no room for a pure vertical antenna.
A folded dipole has about a similar performance as a normal dipole, but
with just a little bit more bandwidth. But that comes with the cost of a
spoiled impedance, making it necessary to use some kind of transformer
with its own penalties (weight, costs, loss).
And any trick to broaden the bandwidth will negatively affect the
radiation efficiency of the antenna.
In my setup, I made a dipole antenna from aluminium parts, with a small
T-section on top and bottom. This broadens the bandwidth just enough to
get a good overall SWR over the entire communications band. It fits
nicely into the fin. This could also be achieved with a folded dipole,
but "my" setup is lighter, easier, and more economical. ;-) If you can't
imagine what I did, I can make a picture.
Just don't forget there aint anything like a free lunch. Any antenna
with a claimed "gain", will suffer somewhere in its radiation pattern.
The only way to create gain, is to take energy from somewhere else and
focus it in a certain direction. Antenna's with gain are very usefull...
provided that you aim the lobe with the gain to the destination. In our
airplanes however we have no use for gain, as our communication should
be received/transmitted in all directions equally.
Compare it with a light bulb. You can't get more light from the
lightbulb with lenses and reflectors, but you can certainly create
"gain". This "gain" however always create dark spots in the radiation
pattern.
A vertical dipole has a very uniform circular radiation pattern and this
is again a reason why a dipole is the best antenna for aircrafts.
If you manage to find something that has more gain in all directions
compared to a dipole, you have found something that will change the laws
of physics forever. ;-)
--
Frans Veldman
Message 8
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| Subject: | Aircraft Respraying. |
Does anyone have any experience with the quality of work of Invicta
Aviation Services ( Dave Charlesworth). Please contact me at
mikenjulie.parkin@btinternet.com.
thanks,
Mike Parkin
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rigging/Derigging |
Steve, I too have a mono xs in the final(!!) stages of construction. Would
you have construction details and/or photos of the dolly you use to support
the fuse while adding the wings. I can see that this would be very useful.
Thanks
Mike Gamble
UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
On Feb 23, 2009, at 2:11 AM, Frans Veldman wrote:
> Maybe you wonder why I used 24 pole connectors:
> It soon adds up.
Frans...as do so many things associated w/ our audacious endeavors.
BTW, did you receive my progress report and the photos of the wing
root fairings?...there were 10 which may have overloaded your email.
Fred
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rigging/Derigging |
Mike, like you I have a mono xs in the final (!!) stages of construction. I
have a very good dolly and other rigging aids, made by William Mills (I
bought his trailer and his rigging aids from his widow). You are welcome to
come and have a look at them and take measurements. I am not far from you in
West Sussex. Send me an email off forum if you are interested.
If like me you are going for single-handed rigging then you are going to
need some means of ensuring that the flap,pin is in alignment with the
torque tube. If you haven't already done so, get in touch with the LAA and
ask them to send you the drawing for mod 10303 (one of the 'approved for all
of type' mods).
John Heykoop
G-JHKP
On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 4:42 PM, mike gamble <mp.gamble@tiscali.co.uk>wrote:
>
> Steve, I too have a mono xs in the final(!!) stages of construction. Would
> you have construction details and/or photos of the dolly you use to support
> the fuse while adding the wings. I can see that this would be very useful.
> Thanks
> Mike Gamble
> UK
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Antennae. (was strobe wiring) |
1) A half-wave dipole antenna is the best ..........
Basic radio antennas beautifully explained, thanks Franz.
Regards,
Mike Parkin
Message 13
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| Subject: | tank support layups |
Hi Rowland,
I would suggest (if you haven't already) making sure to soak the tank with
fuel for awhile, before fitting and glassing it, since it will expand
slightly. Otherwise, the tank would swell and create pressure points, and
small clearances might change. I should have the fluorinated tank (circa
Nov, 2001), but how can one know 100%? I believe the fluorinated tank will
swell slightly, anyway. After having the tank swell with fuel for a few
months (while doing other things, I don't think it needs to be that long),
it was apparent that the large flat, unsupported, rear faces of the tank
wanted to bulge outward, due to the weight of the fuel. Thus, once
installed, the tank will probably have a tendancy to want to push forward in
the module, but hopefully the spacers will tame it, and keep it at bay. Just
before installing the tank, I had to heat the rear tank faces and clamp them
down with a sheet of plywood and 2x4's on both sides, to get it to want to
revert back to its proper form, and allow proper tank placement in the
module, for glassing.
Upon draining the fuel, I had the tank glassed in within a day or two, to
stay ahead of the shrinkage curve.
The two most important alignment points (top and bottom, not side to side)
were the clearance of the wing spars at the top of the tank, and the fuel
outlets touching up against the pitch tube at the bottom of the tank.
I simply got the shelf of the tank to go as high as it would go in the
module (or as low as it would go, if the module is upside down), and then
tipped the tank to clear the tank outlets touching on the pitch tube, and
allow a little extra for the rubber hose. It seemed to work well. My tank
sits slightly tipped.
Once the fuel remnants dried out of the walls, the tank outlets (with the
rubber and clamps installed) were rubbing up against the pitch tube, just
slightly, especially when cold. I am confident that the addition of fuel
will regain the proper clearance. There is at least 3-4mm (guessing) of dead
air space between the very bottom brackets and the tank (not the saddle
plies, but next to the fuselage bottom, where the brackets hold the tank up
off the floor of the fuselage), due to tank shrinkage. That should
approximate the extra clearance regained between the tank outlets and the
pitch tube, when the fuel is put back in the tank. In the meantime, I placed
a tie wrap on the rubber and clamp, so that the pitch tube would wear on it,
instead of the rubber/clamp (it was mostly centered on the metal clamp).
Nowhere, did I allow the plies to stick to the tank (using benefits of
others experiences). This was done by placing plastic or plastic tape
wherever the plies contacted the tank.
This should cure the dreaded tank crack in the saddle area, that others have
experienced, especially when draining the tank for extended periods.
It will also allow for easy tank replacement later. There are measurements
in my journal as to where to cut the top of the module, to allow clearance
to pull the old tank straight up and out.
Also, on the tough, first bracket for the shelf of the tank (top side), I
make an aluminum spring to hold it to the module. It is simply a piece of
aluminum about 1 inch wide (which I covered in saran wrap) that is curved
into an arc. A hole was placed on either side of the spring, and the arc
part faced the ply, and the sides of the spring were pressed down to the
module, where the small screws held the spring in place. This held the ply
flat against the module, across its entire length, and made that part of the
job real easy. For grins and assurance to keep the ply from moving, I also
peeled back the ply (which still had its plastic backing to keep the glass
from bending out of shape), right before putting on the spring, and dabbed
small amounts of 4-minute epoxy on the module side of the bracket. That
toughest-to-do ply was the straightest and neatest one of all the plies on
the gas tank. Too bad it is the one that is the least visible :( .
Regards,
Greg Fuchs, A050
Tigard, OR
P.S. I am sorry about your loss, recently.
At 2009-02-21 08:59 +0000 Robert C Harrison wrote:
>I recall that the tank needs to be as high as possible ( when
>viewed with the assembly in the "flying mode") This is to ensure that
>the wing spars do not conflict with the ledge of tank which runs across
>the width of the a/c.
Bob - thanks for that reminder. I think I can check it without
actually going to the bother of re-rigging the wings to the cockpit
module
>I don't understand your statement " flush with the bottom of the cockpit
>module"? Do you mean "bottom" to mean the area which sits on the floor
>of the fuselage
Yes, I meant the part that will at the bottom when everything is right way
up.
>the radius of
>the tank bottom does NOT sit on the fuselage it sits on more lay ups
>between it and the fuselage bottom
I don't see any references in the manual to any layups under the tank
(when it is right-way-up) apart from the t-section ones I've
mentioned. The drawing in the manual shows the bottom of the tank
fairly much in line with the bottom of the baggage bay and seat parts
of the cockpit module.
regards
Rowland
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