Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:54 AM - Re: TRAVELLING ABROAD IN A PERMIT AIRCRAFT (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
2. 01:29 AM - Re: Ivan's email (Brian Davies)
3. 04:12 AM - Re: Re: How goes flight testing? (Graham Singleton)
4. 04:20 AM - Re: mag drop solved (Kingsley Hurst)
5. 04:42 AM - Re: mag drop solved (Robert Borger)
6. 05:03 AM - Re: Re: How goes flight testing? (Robert Borger)
7. 05:52 AM - Re: Re: How goes flight testing? (Graham Singleton)
8. 06:49 AM - Re: Cowling mods (Paul Atkinson)
9. 07:07 AM - Re: Cowling mods (JEFF ROBERTS)
10. 07:11 AM - Re: Cowling mods (Graham Singleton)
11. 09:29 AM - Re: Cowling mods (Robert Borger)
12. 10:41 AM - Re: Cowling mods (G-IANI)
13. 12:03 PM - Re: Cowling mods (Graham Singleton)
14. 03:03 PM - Re: Cowling mods (JR Gowing)
Message 1
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| Subject: | TRAVELLING ABROAD IN A PERMIT AIRCRAFT |
Mike,
Excellent idea ' please do!
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Do not archive
Fra: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] P=E5 vegne av Mike
Parkin
Sendt: 3. mars 2009 08:11
Til: europa-list@matronics.com
Emne: RE: Europa-List: TRAVELLING ABROAD IN A PERMIT AIRCRAFT
Thanks Brian,
The microlight document did make interesting reading. I could be
persuaded
to co-ordinate an Overseas Flying area if enough people think it would
be
useful.
Regards,
Mike
Message 2
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Hi Fred,
His e mail address is available in the members only area of the Europa Club
website. Sorry I cant broadcast it- UK Data Protection Laws!
If you cant find it, e mail me offline.
Brian Davies, Europa Club membership sec.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Klein
Sent: 03 March 2009 02:01
Subject: Europa-List: Ivan's email
All,
By any chance, does anyone have an email address for Ivan Shaw?
Fred
A194
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: How goes flight testing? |
JR Gowing wrote:
>> Have to crank down on the friction for the throttle. The springs
>> cause the throttle to creep.
>>
>> Need to set a better idle stop on the throttle lever. Too easy to
>> pull the throttle lower than 2000 RPM while on the ground.
Bob
the throttle friction is a weak link, the nylon washers tend to turn
unpredicably so there is a tiny bit of lost motion at closed position.
Better to use nylon plates anchored to the box to get rid of the lost
motion.
Imho 2000rpm is too much, with carbs balanced you should achieve a nice
1750 rpm. You're right about the stop/lost motion. The whole box is too
floppy imho.
>> Strong pitch change with gear/flap extension. Pitch up with
>> retraction, pitch down with extension.
You should find that if you trim out clean at 80kts, lower the flaps and
you have 60/65kts trimmed. That's ideal, no retrim needed while you are
busy.
>> Speed control on base and final is very important.
>>
>> Throttle control on final is very important (creeping throttle doesn't
>> help)
I recommend small amount of power on finals but trimmed at 65kts. Easier
descent rate.
>> Precise pitch control after roundout is critical. The aircraft
>> baloons very easily.
Feel for the ground with tail wheel, then stick hard back. There will be
a small bounce but no balloon because aircraft can't pitch up any more
with tail on ground. All you need to think about then is keep it
straight and that means instant response to yaw, especially on black
top. Grass is more forgiving.
In ground effect the tail loses the downwash from the flaps/wings. The
nose drops, wheel touches and she balloons, (unless the tail wheel is
already on the ground ) ;-)
Graham
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: mag drop solved |
Keith,
> Amazing that it ran so well !
No need to feel embarrassed. He who has never made a mistake has never
made anything so thank you for telling us.
Since you say it ran so well, I'm wondering if the spark on each plug
fires on the exhaust stroke as well as the compression stroke. If this
is so, would that be an explanation for its still running okay with the
leads crossed ?
Cheers from Oz
Kingsley
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: mag drop solved |
Kingsley,
Yes, it is a "Lost Spark" system. There is a spark at the top of
every compression stroke.
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
Aircraft Flying!
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
On Mar 3, 2009, at 6:19, Kingsley Hurst wrote:
> Keith,
>
> > Amazing that it ran so well !
>
> No need to feel embarrassed. He who has never made a mistake has
> never made anything so thank you for telling us.
>
> Since you say it ran so well, I'm wondering if the spark on each
> plug fires on the exhaust stroke as well as the compression stroke.
> If this is so, would that be an explanation for its still running
> okay with the leads crossed ?
>
> Cheers from Oz
> Kingsley
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: How goes flight testing? |
Graham,
On Mar 3, 2009, at 6:10, Graham Singleton wrote:
> >
>>
>>> Bob
> the throttle friction is a weak link, the nylon washers tend to turn
> unpredicably so there is a tiny bit of lost motion at closed
> position. Better to use nylon plates anchored to the box to get rid
> of the lost motion.
Yes, need to come up with something better.
> Imho 2000rpm is too much, with carbs balanced you should achieve a
> nice 1750 rpm. You're right about the stop/lost motion. The whole
> box is too floppy imho.
Yes. A proper throttle quad could be another project for next winter.
> You should find that if you trim out clean at 80kts, lower the flaps
> and you have 60/65kts trimmed. That's ideal, no retrim needed while
> you are busy.
That's about what I have found. Did not need to re-trim. Only set up
for the new speed. Just seemed interesting that those tiny flaps
acted more like adding full flaps on an old big-bar, manual C-150
rather than, say, an old manual Cherokee.
> I recommend small amount of power on finals but trimmed at 65kts.
> Easier descent rate.
If I can get the throttle creep problem resolved I may very well find
that to be.
> Feel for the ground with tail wheel, then stick hard back. There
> will be a small bounce but no balloon because aircraft can't pitch
> up any more with tail on ground. All you need to think about then is
> keep it straight and that means instant response to yaw, especially
> on black top. Grass is more forgiving.
> In ground effect the tail loses the downwash from the flaps/wings.
> The nose drops, wheel touches and she balloons, (unless the tail
> wheel is already on the ground ) ;-)
That's sort of what I have been trying to do. Get the tail down
without excessive pitch angle so that the last bit of drop isn't so
bad. But you are right, If you nail the tail down first, it won't go
flying again. But if the drop of the main is more than a few inches
the resulting bounce off the main wheel will point you in any
direction except straight down the runway. Then things get way too
interesting. Yes, much more forgiving on grass than hard, but since
I'll be flying off the 6000 x 200 foot strip of concrete here at KDTO,
I need to get this down pat.
> Graham
Thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions. This is a
great group!
Check six,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
Aircraft Flying!
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: How goes flight testing? |
Robert Borger wrote:
>
> that's sort of what I have been trying to do. Get the tail down
> without excessive pitch angle so that the last bit of drop isn't so
> bad. But you are right, If you nail the tail down first, it won't go
> flying again. But if the drop of the main is more than a few inches
> the resulting bounce off the main wheel will point you in any
> direction except straight down the runway.
Bob
check the spring tension on the tailwheel, it needs to be fairly tight,
say 3/16" of compression at center. I used to have it fairly slack but
you will have more authority with it tighter. If you have my mod. I
recommend the wider tail wheel horn, also gives mroe authority, Go for
51/2" between the cables at the wheel horn.
The other thing to check is that the outriggers are firmly down on the
ground tail down. If they allow wobbling from one side to the other that
will cause snaking.
Graham
Message 8
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Frans
You may be interested to know that Europa did some testing of several duct
positions with a view to producing a mod along the lines of what you are
doing. The aim being to improve cooling, reduce drag and improve the looks.
Unfortunately it never got produced :-(
I spoke to Andy Draper today and he is going to send me a drawing of the
design that worked the best in terms of cooling. I will happily forward it
to you when I get it.
Regards
Paul Atkinson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans Veldman
Sent: 02 March 2009 20:53
Subject: Europa-List: Cowling mods
Fred Klein wrote:
> Frans...this sounds really interesting...cheers for getting rid of the
> dog house...how bout some photos?
I guess more people are interested in seeing some preliminary work that has
been done.
Note that a lot of work still needs to be done. It is a sort of "concept"
that is ready now.
The idea is to reduce drag, and improve cooling at the same time.
Picture 1: the nasa-ducts in the top cowling. Inside is a deflector screen.
The air is aimed between the front and read cylinders, cooling both
efficiently and equally. The air is directed to the bottom, so the heated
air will hopefully not collect in the top cowling. The air outlets (inlets?)
on the side are closed off. If the engine is shut off, the remaining heat
will find its way out via the nasa ducts which are actually higher than the
side vents.
Note that the front openings will be used for taxi & landing lights, and not
as an air passage.
Picture 2: the cooling inlet and diffuser for the radiators. The idea is
here that the frontal area is reduced, the air inlet is in a better position
in the propellor wash (important for cooling on the ground!), and drag is
lowered because of the diffuser in front of the radiators.
The area where the original air duct was, has been filled with blue foam,
and then sanded until it had the shape the cowling should have. A few layers
of bid (inside and outside) to make it strong. Some (a lot?) of filler is
required to finalize it. The diffuser is also made from blue foam, shaped,
and with two layers of bid.
Picture 3: closeup of the diffuser. The area inside is funnel shaped with a
round curve, but that is hard to see. Every wall of the diffuser can be seen
as a wing. The air going inside is slowed down by expansion, to match with
the airflow the radiators can handle.
Picture 4: Underside/rearside of the radiator housing.
What you are seeing here are actually two air outlets: The opening for the
radiators is obvious. Directly behind it (towards the camera) is the opening
from the engine bay. Both radiators are in line with each other:
the oil radiator will only get air that has gone through the water radiator.
I believe that this is a good thing. (The reason that this is sometimes done
differently in the Europa is because of the bad properties of the original
cooling duct).
On the bottom panel you can see a hinge. Here will be attached an adjustable
cowl flap. In the cruise position, it will be in a direct line with the
bottom panel of the radiator housing. It will extend considerably rearward,
where the belly slopes down. The outgoing air will be speed up, and
hopefully smootlly mix with the air passing the radiator housing because it
has the same speed and direction. If more cooling is required, the flap will
move down, making a greater opening, and causing some vacuum behind the flap
to help the air out. Obviously, in maximum cooling position it will create
some drag, although it wouldn't be worse than the factory cowling.
Note that the sides of the radiator housing will not be visible when the
cowling is finished, as it will overlap the sides of the radiator housing.
(Problem here of course is that the radiator housing is fixed to the
fuselage, while the bottom cowling needs to be removable. Am not sure yet
where exactly the seam will be made).
Picture 6: Here the shape is better to see. If the cowl flap is in place, it
will be in a direct line with the radiator housing, horizontal with the
flight direction. Because the belly of the cowling slopes down, the air
going to the exit will be compressed (read: "speed up") somewhat.
The complete air path is as follows: There is a small opening in front, and
behind the opening is a diffuser which has "wing-shaped" walls that increase
the area, thus slowing the air down. The slower moving air can pass the
radiators, and after that the air is speed up again, so when the air is
released, it has the same direction and speed as the surrounding air.
Of course, al this is theory. Because the cooling properties of the factory
cowling are so bad, I believe that it would actually be difficult to make it
worse. So chances are that my cooling at least gives some better cooling and
aerodynamics.
Note that before I started with the Europa I had no experience at all with
making shapes and working with epoxy. I'm sure that a lot of people can do a
better job than I did, and I'm not really sure how things will look after
applying filler and sanding. I hope it is going to be ok.
Comments are welcome of course!
--
Frans Veldman
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling mods |
Paul,
Forward those to all of us as I'm too interested in seeing them.
Regards,
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 176 hours down for annual & Mods.
On Mar 3, 2009, at 8:46 AM, Paul Atkinson wrote:
> <paullatkinson@talktalk.net>
>
> Frans
>
> You may be interested to know that Europa did some testing of several
> duct
> positions with a view to producing a mod along the lines of what you
> are
> doing. The aim being to improve cooling, reduce drag and improve the
> looks.
> Unfortunately it never got produced :-(
> I spoke to Andy Draper today and he is going to send me a drawing of
> the
> design that worked the best in terms of cooling. I will happily
> forward it
> to you when I get it.
> Regards
>
> Paul Atkinson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans
> Veldman
> Sent: 02 March 2009 20:53
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Cowling mods
>
> Fred Klein wrote:
>
>> Frans...this sounds really interesting...cheers for getting rid of the
>> dog house...how bout some photos?
>
> I guess more people are interested in seeing some preliminary work
> that has
> been done.
> Note that a lot of work still needs to be done. It is a sort of
> "concept"
> that is ready now.
>
> The idea is to reduce drag, and improve cooling at the same time.
>
> Picture 1: the nasa-ducts in the top cowling. Inside is a deflector
> screen.
> The air is aimed between the front and read cylinders, cooling both
> efficiently and equally. The air is directed to the bottom, so the
> heated
> air will hopefully not collect in the top cowling. The air outlets
> (inlets?)
> on the side are closed off. If the engine is shut off, the remaining
> heat
> will find its way out via the nasa ducts which are actually higher
> than the
> side vents.
> Note that the front openings will be used for taxi & landing lights,
> and not
> as an air passage.
>
> Picture 2: the cooling inlet and diffuser for the radiators. The idea
> is
> here that the frontal area is reduced, the air inlet is in a better
> position
> in the propellor wash (important for cooling on the ground!), and drag
> is
> lowered because of the diffuser in front of the radiators.
> The area where the original air duct was, has been filled with blue
> foam,
> and then sanded until it had the shape the cowling should have. A few
> layers
> of bid (inside and outside) to make it strong. Some (a lot?) of filler
> is
> required to finalize it. The diffuser is also made from blue foam,
> shaped,
> and with two layers of bid.
>
> Picture 3: closeup of the diffuser. The area inside is funnel shaped
> with a
> round curve, but that is hard to see. Every wall of the diffuser can
> be seen
> as a wing. The air going inside is slowed down by expansion, to match
> with
> the airflow the radiators can handle.
>
> Picture 4: Underside/rearside of the radiator housing.
> What you are seeing here are actually two air outlets: The opening for
> the
> radiators is obvious. Directly behind it (towards the camera) is the
> opening
> from the engine bay. Both radiators are in line with each other:
> the oil radiator will only get air that has gone through the water
> radiator.
> I believe that this is a good thing. (The reason that this is
> sometimes done
> differently in the Europa is because of the bad properties of the
> original
> cooling duct).
> On the bottom panel you can see a hinge. Here will be attached an
> adjustable
> cowl flap. In the cruise position, it will be in a direct line with the
> bottom panel of the radiator housing. It will extend considerably
> rearward,
> where the belly slopes down. The outgoing air will be speed up, and
> hopefully smootlly mix with the air passing the radiator housing
> because it
> has the same speed and direction. If more cooling is required, the
> flap will
> move down, making a greater opening, and causing some vacuum behind
> the flap
> to help the air out. Obviously, in maximum cooling position it will
> create
> some drag, although it wouldn't be worse than the factory cowling.
> Note that the sides of the radiator housing will not be visible when
> the
> cowling is finished, as it will overlap the sides of the radiator
> housing.
> (Problem here of course is that the radiator housing is fixed to the
> fuselage, while the bottom cowling needs to be removable. Am not sure
> yet
> where exactly the seam will be made).
>
> Picture 6: Here the shape is better to see. If the cowl flap is in
> place, it
> will be in a direct line with the radiator housing, horizontal with the
> flight direction. Because the belly of the cowling slopes down, the air
> going to the exit will be compressed (read: "speed up") somewhat.
> The complete air path is as follows: There is a small opening in
> front, and
> behind the opening is a diffuser which has "wing-shaped" walls that
> increase
> the area, thus slowing the air down. The slower moving air can pass the
> radiators, and after that the air is speed up again, so when the air is
> released, it has the same direction and speed as the surrounding air.
>
> Of course, al this is theory. Because the cooling properties of the
> factory
> cowling are so bad, I believe that it would actually be difficult to
> make it
> worse. So chances are that my cooling at least gives some better
> cooling and
> aerodynamics.
>
> Note that before I started with the Europa I had no experience at all
> with
> making shapes and working with epoxy. I'm sure that a lot of people
> can do a
> better job than I did, and I'm not really sure how things will look
> after
> applying filler and sanding. I hope it is going to be ok.
>
> Comments are welcome of course!
>
> --
> Frans Veldman
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling mods |
Paul Atkinson wrote:
>
> Frans
>
> You may be interested to know that Europa did some testing of several duct
> positions with a view to producing a mod along the lines of what you are
> doing. The aim being to improve cooling, reduce drag and improve the looks.
> Unfortunately it never got produced :-(
> I spoke to Andy Draper today and he is going to send me a drawing of the
> design that worked the best in terms of cooling. I will happily forward it
> to you when I get it.
> Regards
>
> Paul Atkinson
>
Paul
I'd like to see those too please
Graham
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling mods |
Paul,
Please post on the Europa Owners site for all to access.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 3, 2009, at 8:46, Paul Atkinson <paullatkinson@talktalk.net>
wrote:
> >
>
> Frans
>
> You may be interested to know that Europa did some testing of
> several duct
> positions with a view to producing a mod along the lines of what you
> are
> doing. The aim being to improve cooling, reduce drag and improve the
> looks.
> Unfortunately it never got produced :-(
> I spoke to Andy Draper today and he is going to send me a drawing of
> the
> design that worked the best in terms of cooling. I will happily
> forward it
> to you when I get it.
> Regards
>
> Paul Atkinson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans
> Veldman
> Sent: 02 March 2009 20:53
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Cowling mods
>
> Fred Klein wrote:
>
>> Frans...this sounds really interesting...cheers for getting rid of
>> the
>> dog house...how bout some photos?
>
> I guess more people are interested in seeing some preliminary work
> that has
> been done.
> Note that a lot of work still needs to be done. It is a sort of
> "concept"
> that is ready now.
>
> The idea is to reduce drag, and improve cooling at the same time.
>
> Picture 1: the nasa-ducts in the top cowling. Inside is a deflector
> screen.
> The air is aimed between the front and read cylinders, cooling both
> efficiently and equally. The air is directed to the bottom, so the
> heated
> air will hopefully not collect in the top cowling. The air outlets
> (inlets?)
> on the side are closed off. If the engine is shut off, the remaining
> heat
> will find its way out via the nasa ducts which are actually higher
> than the
> side vents.
> Note that the front openings will be used for taxi & landing lights,
> and not
> as an air passage.
>
> Picture 2: the cooling inlet and diffuser for the radiators. The
> idea is
> here that the frontal area is reduced, the air inlet is in a better
> position
> in the propellor wash (important for cooling on the ground!), and
> drag is
> lowered because of the diffuser in front of the radiators.
> The area where the original air duct was, has been filled with blue
> foam,
> and then sanded until it had the shape the cowling should have. A
> few layers
> of bid (inside and outside) to make it strong. Some (a lot?) of
> filler is
> required to finalize it. The diffuser is also made from blue foam,
> shaped,
> and with two layers of bid.
>
> Picture 3: closeup of the diffuser. The area inside is funnel shaped
> with a
> round curve, but that is hard to see. Every wall of the diffuser can
> be seen
> as a wing. The air going inside is slowed down by expansion, to
> match with
> the airflow the radiators can handle.
>
> Picture 4: Underside/rearside of the radiator housing.
> What you are seeing here are actually two air outlets: The opening
> for the
> radiators is obvious. Directly behind it (towards the camera) is the
> opening
> from the engine bay. Both radiators are in line with each other:
> the oil radiator will only get air that has gone through the water
> radiator.
> I believe that this is a good thing. (The reason that this is
> sometimes done
> differently in the Europa is because of the bad properties of the
> original
> cooling duct).
> On the bottom panel you can see a hinge. Here will be attached an
> adjustable
> cowl flap. In the cruise position, it will be in a direct line with
> the
> bottom panel of the radiator housing. It will extend considerably
> rearward,
> where the belly slopes down. The outgoing air will be speed up, and
> hopefully smootlly mix with the air passing the radiator housing
> because it
> has the same speed and direction. If more cooling is required, the
> flap will
> move down, making a greater opening, and causing some vacuum behind
> the flap
> to help the air out. Obviously, in maximum cooling position it will
> create
> some drag, although it wouldn't be worse than the factory cowling.
> Note that the sides of the radiator housing will not be visible when
> the
> cowling is finished, as it will overlap the sides of the radiator
> housing.
> (Problem here of course is that the radiator housing is fixed to the
> fuselage, while the bottom cowling needs to be removable. Am not
> sure yet
> where exactly the seam will be made).
>
> Picture 6: Here the shape is better to see. If the cowl flap is in
> place, it
> will be in a direct line with the radiator housing, horizontal with
> the
> flight direction. Because the belly of the cowling slopes down, the
> air
> going to the exit will be compressed (read: "speed up") somewhat.
> The complete air path is as follows: There is a small opening in
> front, and
> behind the opening is a diffuser which has "wing-shaped" walls that
> increase
> the area, thus slowing the air down. The slower moving air can pass
> the
> radiators, and after that the air is speed up again, so when the air
> is
> released, it has the same direction and speed as the surrounding air.
>
> Of course, al this is theory. Because the cooling properties of the
> factory
> cowling are so bad, I believe that it would actually be difficult to
> make it
> worse. So chances are that my cooling at least gives some better
> cooling and
> aerodynamics.
>
> Note that before I started with the Europa I had no experience at
> all with
> making shapes and working with epoxy. I'm sure that a lot of people
> can do a
> better job than I did, and I'm not really sure how things will look
> after
> applying filler and sanding. I hope it is going to be ok.
>
> Comments are welcome of course!
>
> --
> Frans Veldman
>
>
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Paul
Obviously everyone is interested in the cowl drawings. Do you know if Andy
is going to send paper or a CAD drawing?
If its paper, I will on behalf of the Club, be happy to digitise it and make
available in a suitable format everyone can use (PDF, JPG etc)
If it is CAD again I am happy to translate it into a usable format.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 200 hours
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling mods |
G-IANI wrote:
>
>
> Paul
>
>
> If it is CAD again I am happy to translate it into a usable format.
***.dxf should be OK
Graham
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling mods |
Paul
I hope you post it for everyone to see!
JR (Bob) Gowing 327 in Oz
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Atkinson" <paullatkinson@talktalk.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 1:46 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Cowling mods
> <paullatkinson@talktalk.net>
>
> Frans
>
> You may be interested to know that Europa did some testing of several duct
> positions with a view to producing a mod along the lines of what you are
> doing. The aim being to improve cooling, reduce drag and improve the
> looks.
> Unfortunately it never got produced :-(
> I spoke to Andy Draper today and he is going to send me a drawing of the
> design that worked the best in terms of cooling. I will happily forward it
> to you when I get it.
> Regards
>
> Paul Atkinson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans Veldman
> Sent: 02 March 2009 20:53
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Cowling mods
>
> Fred Klein wrote:
>
>> Frans...this sounds really interesting...cheers for getting rid of the
>> dog house...how bout some photos?
>
> I guess more people are interested in seeing some preliminary work that
> has
> been done.
> Note that a lot of work still needs to be done. It is a sort of "concept"
> that is ready now.
>
> The idea is to reduce drag, and improve cooling at the same time.
>
> Picture 1: the nasa-ducts in the top cowling. Inside is a deflector
> screen.
> The air is aimed between the front and read cylinders, cooling both
> efficiently and equally. The air is directed to the bottom, so the heated
> air will hopefully not collect in the top cowling. The air outlets
> (inlets?)
> on the side are closed off. If the engine is shut off, the remaining heat
> will find its way out via the nasa ducts which are actually higher than
> the
> side vents.
> Note that the front openings will be used for taxi & landing lights, and
> not
> as an air passage.
>
> Picture 2: the cooling inlet and diffuser for the radiators. The idea is
> here that the frontal area is reduced, the air inlet is in a better
> position
> in the propellor wash (important for cooling on the ground!), and drag is
> lowered because of the diffuser in front of the radiators.
> The area where the original air duct was, has been filled with blue foam,
> and then sanded until it had the shape the cowling should have. A few
> layers
> of bid (inside and outside) to make it strong. Some (a lot?) of filler is
> required to finalize it. The diffuser is also made from blue foam, shaped,
> and with two layers of bid.
>
> Picture 3: closeup of the diffuser. The area inside is funnel shaped with
> a
> round curve, but that is hard to see. Every wall of the diffuser can be
> seen
> as a wing. The air going inside is slowed down by expansion, to match with
> the airflow the radiators can handle.
>
> Picture 4: Underside/rearside of the radiator housing.
> What you are seeing here are actually two air outlets: The opening for the
> radiators is obvious. Directly behind it (towards the camera) is the
> opening
> from the engine bay. Both radiators are in line with each other:
> the oil radiator will only get air that has gone through the water
> radiator.
> I believe that this is a good thing. (The reason that this is sometimes
> done
> differently in the Europa is because of the bad properties of the original
> cooling duct).
> On the bottom panel you can see a hinge. Here will be attached an
> adjustable
> cowl flap. In the cruise position, it will be in a direct line with the
> bottom panel of the radiator housing. It will extend considerably
> rearward,
> where the belly slopes down. The outgoing air will be speed up, and
> hopefully smootlly mix with the air passing the radiator housing because
> it
> has the same speed and direction. If more cooling is required, the flap
> will
> move down, making a greater opening, and causing some vacuum behind the
> flap
> to help the air out. Obviously, in maximum cooling position it will create
> some drag, although it wouldn't be worse than the factory cowling.
> Note that the sides of the radiator housing will not be visible when the
> cowling is finished, as it will overlap the sides of the radiator housing.
> (Problem here of course is that the radiator housing is fixed to the
> fuselage, while the bottom cowling needs to be removable. Am not sure yet
> where exactly the seam will be made).
>
> Picture 6: Here the shape is better to see. If the cowl flap is in place,
> it
> will be in a direct line with the radiator housing, horizontal with the
> flight direction. Because the belly of the cowling slopes down, the air
> going to the exit will be compressed (read: "speed up") somewhat.
> The complete air path is as follows: There is a small opening in front,
> and
> behind the opening is a diffuser which has "wing-shaped" walls that
> increase
> the area, thus slowing the air down. The slower moving air can pass the
> radiators, and after that the air is speed up again, so when the air is
> released, it has the same direction and speed as the surrounding air.
>
> Of course, al this is theory. Because the cooling properties of the
> factory
> cowling are so bad, I believe that it would actually be difficult to make
> it
> worse. So chances are that my cooling at least gives some better cooling
> and
> aerodynamics.
>
> Note that before I started with the Europa I had no experience at all with
> making shapes and working with epoxy. I'm sure that a lot of people can do
> a
> better job than I did, and I'm not really sure how things will look after
> applying filler and sanding. I hope it is going to be ok.
>
> Comments are welcome of course!
>
> --
> Frans Veldman
>
>
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