Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:11 AM - Re: Cowl Question? (Robert C Harrison)
2. 01:54 AM - Re: Engine oil leak update (Duncan & Ami McFadyean)
3. 03:10 AM - Re: Cowl Question? (John Cliff)
4. 03:14 AM - Insight Strikefinder (Euronut)
5. 04:43 AM - Re: Cowl Question? (Robert C Harrison)
6. 06:28 AM - Fly In 21.05.2009 (UVTReith)
7. 09:41 AM - Generator Light (Mike Parkin)
8. 12:38 PM - Re: Generator Light (craig bastin)
9. 05:12 PM - Mounting the Rudder (Fred Klein)
10. 06:39 PM - Re: Mounting the Rudder (craig bastin)
11. 07:42 PM - Re: Mounting the Rudder (ALAN YERLY)
12. 09:00 PM - Re: Mounting the Rudder (Fred Klein)
Message 1
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Hi! Jim.
I have to concur with Jeffrey. My 3300 installation was the first and
the UK agent had made a "plug" to fit a 2200 engine down to the Europa
Firewall.
Obviously I had to extensively change the front to suit the 3300 and I
did lots of experimenting with Eyebrows and "underbrows" and also a top
scoop.
The biggest factor and so important is to arrange for the sump cooling
fins to get dedicated air to exit right out the rear cowl bottom.
Your whole effort must go to ensuring top cowl pressure is forcing cold
air downwards through and across the engine completely against the
physics of hot air rising.
You may get some ideas from my ( defunct cowl since I have a Rotax 914
now) by looking at http://www.crix.co.uk <http://www.crix.co.uk/>
Not necessarily repeatable without the close to spinner MT CS
Blades/paddles !
You may see that the sump then oil cooler are ducted and dedicated,
finishing up in a collector manifold under the muffler with butterfly
connections to both foot wells or exit to waste out the back. I could
fry the P2 position by collecting this heat for cabin .
But you have just got to keep this high pressure air out of the lower
cowl and in the duct to allow the main downward cooling air to do it's
job through the heads and barrel fins.
I also devised a way to switch off the oil circulating through the
cooler since with the cooler constantly in the circuit the oil never got
to acceptable temperature levels...But had to extend the slot in the
ball valve to ensure that on switchover there was always adequate
pressured oil to the engine. This was by a mechanical push pull lever to
the P1 position. Manifold and oil switch all displayed on the above web
site (I just checked!)
I personally wouldn't wish to go that way again especially all at my
expense with no assistance from the distributor.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG ex 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jimpuglise@comcast.net
Sent: 03 April 2009 23:04
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cowl Question?
Jeff-
The original cowling was designed for the Rotax, which was the engine of
choice for the original airplane. I also have a Jab. and have the Jab.
FWF kit. Trying to modify the original cowling to fit the Jab. would be
a very extensive project. By far, your best bet is going to be to use
the Jab. kit. For starters, the Jab. is a bit longer than the Rotax and
you would need to account for that, as well as the vastly different
cooling. Your best sources will be Bud or John Lawton.
Jim Puglise A-283
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey J Paris" <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com>
Sent: Friday, April 3, 2009 5:35:12 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Europa-List: Cowl Question?
Dear Europa List ,
I have a question for the Europa List. I have attached a picture of our
original Europa Classic cowl (rotax) and naturally it doesn't mate up
with the Jab3300. With this in mind has anybody out there in
Experimental Europa/Jabiru land modified the original cowl to fit the
JAB? I have pictures of John Lawton's Europa N245E and I assume the
cowling came from Jabiru USA ? And of course looks fantastic, however,
I find the original look of the Europa intriquing and full of "english"
personality! I like its big nose and hedgehog charm.
I just thought I would check to see if it had been done. It would take
a great deal of modification to the air inlets and a quite a curvey
nacelle would have to be fabricated to make it work: And of course
this brings up issues with proper airflow and cooling of the equipment.
So far with our current JAB we have had to wrestle with some cooling
issues and it seems that cowl design can be a fairly prickly issue...a
black art for me at least.
Thanks for your time and consideration, Cheers!
Jeff Paris #A012
Peter Paris
_____
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Engine oil leak update |
Paul,
You got away lightly with that repair.
Crankcase fretting was a problem common to a small batch of 912 engine
numbers, to the extent that Rotax would offer a replacement casing,
which otherwise costs GBP3,000 (or USD4,500 at Lockwood)
I understand that the fretting occurs mostly around the centre main
bearing support. The same thing happens in VW cases.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul McAllister
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 11:56 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Engine oil leak update
Hi all,
I just wanted to give you an update on my Rotax leaking crankcase.
About a year ago I saw a small oil leak start on the engine just behind
the gearbox on the flat machined surface on top of the engine. After a
while the leaking area started to slowly progress along the case towards
the back of the engine and then along the bottom. While I was at the
Oshkosh airshow I went and talked to the mechanic from Kodiak to get his
opinion. He told me that some 912 / 914's were getting crankcase
fretting and over time the cases were damaged to such an extend that
they had to be replaced. His advice to to have the engine stripped and
inspected.
Well this winter I removed the engine and took it to Leading Edge
Airfoil who has a rotax trained A&P on staff. He stripped the engine
and sure enough it was showing signs of fretting. The engine has about
750 hours on it at the moment. Fortunately it was not too bad and he
was able to dress the cases and re assemble the engine. He used a
different sealant, 5150 I believe it was called instead of the red
Locktite sealant that was on before. He tells me that Rotax now specify
this sealant. It is a heavier material and apparently is swells a
little after application, perhaps from heat, I am not sure. He felt
confident that this would tighten things up and I should not have any
problems. A couple of other things to note, at 750 hours there was no
sign of wear in any part of the engine. The only thing he mentioned was
a slight scuff on a cam follower that would have been from not priming
the engine properly after an oil change. I remember exactly when I did
that ! He as able to polish it out. There was a little bit of oil
flashing on some of the piston skirts and he told me that this was from
using either mineral or semi synthetic. I have been using the
recommended Penzol motorcycle oil although this has dropped off the list
in recent times, so I changed to the Valvoline Durablend. He was
strongly recommending I go to a full synthetic oil. He also wanted me to
stop using the Challenger oil filters, he tells me that they have less
pleats in them. The only other thing of note was the Turbo charger
bracket was broken.
So it would appear that Kodiak was right and if I hadn't had this work
done I would have lost the cases. While he had it apart he overhauled
the gearbox which was due, replaced the plugs, and the rubber boots on
the carburettors, so my oil leak repair came to 3900 dollars. Ouch.
Rotax really have no shame, the gasket set is over a 1000 dollars for
something that has a trivial manufactured cost but there is little that
any of us can do about that matter.
The aircraft is going to be a little while before it is flying again,
I have decided to take a crack at some cooling modifications while it is
all apart.
Paul
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Cowl Question? |
Robert C Harrison wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
> You may get some ideas from my ( defunct cowl since I have a Rotax
> 914 now) by looking at _http://_www.crix.co.uk
> <http://www.crix.co.uk/> Not necessarily repeatable without the
> close to spinner MT CS Blades/paddles !
>
Actually http://www.crix.org.uk
John Cliff
#0259
Message 4
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Subject: | Insight Strikefinder |
Has anyone fitted a 'Strikefinder' in a Europa? If so where did you mount the antenna?
I know they have been fitted in other composite aircraft. Ideally I would
like to mount the antenna before I bond on the top. OK, I know I am slow having
kit 353 but I have excuses.
Thanks
Tony[/list]
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 5
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Yes! John thanks for the "heads up" I noticed it when I checked if it
was still there but then forgot to change it on the msg!.. Short term
memory gets to be a pain !
Now's a good time to thank you for leaving the web page up ..very kind
of you.
Regards
Bob Harrison.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cliff
Sent: 04 April 2009 11:07
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cowl Question?
<johnfcliff@googlemail.com>
Robert C Harrison wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
> You may get some ideas from my ( defunct cowl since I have a Rotax
> 914 now) by looking at _http://_www.crix.co.uk
> <http://www.crix.co.uk/> Not necessarily repeatable without the
> close to spinner MT CS Blades/paddles !
>
Actually http://www.crix.org.uk
John Cliff
#0259
Message 6
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Subject: | Fly In 21.05.2009 |
Hi Europa Family,
Herewith I would like to invite for a nice Fly-In to my airfield EDKW.
Please see attached info sheet.
This Fly-In could be also a first stop for the Kyritz-Peenemunde Group.
As we are talking here about Germany, I guess that our friends from the
other end of the world can not join us.
Sorry about that, I would like to see you too.
All the Best,
Bruno Reith / UVT Reith
europa-aircraft-germany
Message 7
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A simple question but my aircraft has not flown for 2 years.- I cannot
remember if the generator/charging light comes on when power is turned
on or not.- My 914 is wired as shown in the manual.- There is power on
the C pin of the connecting plug and if I earth the L pin of the plug
the light comes on, but not when plugged into the rectifier/regulator.-
Does the alternator have to be rotating ?- or have I got the dreaded
Ducati regulator failure.
If so any ideas???- Who is the cheapest UK supplier?
regards,
Mike
Message 8
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normal setup for most reg's is to allow current to pass to earth when
voltage drops low, ie ignition
on engine not running, the bias in reg diode changes as voltage comes up
preventing the light from
coming on as it cant get to earth. not having used a duke reg I couldnt
comment on that
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Parkin
Sent: Sunday, 5 April 2009 2:40 AM
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Europa-List: Generator Light
A simple question but my aircraft has not flown for 2 years. I
cannot remember if the generator/charging light comes on when power is
turned on or not. My 914 is wired as shown in the manual. There is power
on the C pin of the connecting plug and if I earth the L pin of the plug the
light comes on, but not when plugged into the rectifier/regulator. Does the
alternator have to be rotating ? or have I got the dreaded Ducati regulator
failure.
If so any ideas??? Who is the cheapest UK supplier?
regards,
Mike
Message 9
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Subject: | Mounting the Rudder |
...just as an aside, the concept of "trial fitting"...the time and the
number of repetitions required...is something I had no real
appreciation for at the beginning of my Europa adventure...
Regarding the rudder, I notice that the flange which receives the
hinges is significantly thinner than the assembly of the molded FG
vertical fin along with the starboard flange of the sternpost, an
assembly which also receives the rudder hinge leaves.
The manual talks about relieving the starboard flange assembly locally
for the "hinge pivot" but sez nothin bout removing enough of the
thickness of the assembly in such a way which would allow for the fin
and starboard rudder surfaces to be in the same plane, unless one were
to add a significant amount of filler.
I'm tempted to remove portions of the starboard flange of the
sternpost just a tad larger than the area of the hinge leaves; then
add and overlap onto the sternpost the 2 layers of BID upon which will
rest the hinges.
Please (anyone) advise if doing this is not a good thing...or
alternative methods for dealing with what must be an issue with every
XS.
Thanks,
Fred
A194
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Subject: | Mounting the Rudder |
I believe they are referring to the "joggle" areas of the stern post, when
the manual
calls for removal of the fibreglass where it ends up 3 layers thick.
otherwise you will have
trouble getting the swing to port, and the hinge wont sit flat either. That
was all i removed
and reglassed and it worked nicely.
craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fred Klein
Sent: Sunday, 5 April 2009 10:07 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Mounting the Rudder
...just as an aside, the concept of "trial fitting"...the time and the
number of repetitions required...is something I had no real
appreciation for at the beginning of my Europa adventure...
Regarding the rudder, I notice that the flange which receives the
hinges is significantly thinner than the assembly of the molded FG
vertical fin along with the starboard flange of the sternpost, an
assembly which also receives the rudder hinge leaves.
The manual talks about relieving the starboard flange assembly locally
for the "hinge pivot" but sez nothin bout removing enough of the
thickness of the assembly in such a way which would allow for the fin
and starboard rudder surfaces to be in the same plane, unless one were
to add a significant amount of filler.
I'm tempted to remove portions of the starboard flange of the
sternpost just a tad larger than the area of the hinge leaves; then
add and overlap onto the sternpost the 2 layers of BID upon which will
rest the hinges.
Please (anyone) advise if doing this is not a good thing...or
alternative methods for dealing with what must be an issue with every
XS.
Thanks,
Fred
A194
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
16:53:00
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Mounting the Rudder |
Fred,
It is as Craig said. Only remove the area where the dumb joggle juts
out and interferes with the hinge.
The lower section is very thick and if you did not clamp your stern post
in tight, it tends to be 3/16 of an inch thick.
I just fill in the rudder area and blend. Life is too short. Cutting
the stern post would weaken the area somewhat, but proper reapplication
of plies would make a significant reduction in the thickness.
Just a thought.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Klein<mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Mounting the Rudder
<fklein@orcasonline.com<mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com>>
...just as an aside, the concept of "trial fitting"...the time and the
number of repetitions required...is something I had no real
appreciation for at the beginning of my Europa adventure...
Regarding the rudder, I notice that the flange which receives the
hinges is significantly thinner than the assembly of the molded FG
vertical fin along with the starboard flange of the sternpost, an
assembly which also receives the rudder hinge leaves.
The manual talks about relieving the starboard flange assembly locally
for the "hinge pivot" but sez nothin bout removing enough of the
thickness of the assembly in such a way which would allow for the fin
and starboard rudder surfaces to be in the same plane, unless one were
to add a significant amount of filler.
I'm tempted to remove portions of the starboard flange of the
sternpost just a tad larger than the area of the hinge leaves; then
add and overlap onto the sternpost the 2 layers of BID upon which will
rest the hinges.
Please (anyone) advise if doing this is not a good thing...or
alternative methods for dealing with what must be an issue with every
XS.
Thanks,
Fred
A194
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Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Mounting the Rudder |
Craig and Bud...thanks for the replies...and I agree that life is too
short!
Yes I understand about cutting the joggles where they conflict w/ the
rudder swing and/or hinge leaves.
I had been thinking of the rudder flange as being/functioning just
like the aileron flanges...w/ the ailerons, of course, the idea is to
have the surface of the flange in the same plane as the surface of the
wing at the rear closeout...not so easy to do w/ the rudder and the
abutting surface of the fin on the starboard side.
My point is that because of the difference in thickness between the
rudder flange (where one hinge leaf sits) and the sternpost + fin skin
(where the other hinge leaf sits)...the starboard surface of the
rudder will not be in the same plane as the surface of the fin...it
will be offset by whatever the difference in thickness of the two
components.
I don't see that as necessarily being a problem...especially if one
can split the difference and end up w/ the planes of fin skin and
rudder on both sides being offset equally.
What I didn't understand was whether the goal was to keep the
starboard side of fin and rudder in one plane...or split the difference?
Bud...what I'm taking away from your response is to NOT cut out the
sternpost flange to provide a seat for the hinge leaves, and the
planar issues I describe are unimportant, as long as everything is
straight and true.
Fred
On Apr 4, 2009, at 7:35 PM, ALAN YERLY wrote:
> Fred,
> It is as Craig said. Only remove the area where the dumb joggle
> juts out and interferes with the hinge.
> The lower section is very thick and if you did not clamp your stern
> post in tight, it tends to be 3/16 of an inch thick.
> I just fill in the rudder area and blend. Life is too short.
> Cutting the stern post would weaken the area somewhat, but proper
> reapplication of plies would make a significant reduction in the
> thickness.
>
> Just a thought.
>
> Bud
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Fred Klein
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:06 PM
> Subject: Europa-List: Mounting the Rudder
>
>
> ...just as an aside, the concept of "trial fitting"...the time and the
> number of repetitions required...is something I had no real
> appreciation for at the beginning of my Europa adventure...
>
> Regarding the rudder, I notice that the flange which receives the
> hinges is significantly thinner than the assembly of the molded FG
> vertical fin along with the starboard flange of the sternpost, an
> assembly which also receives the rudder hinge leaves.
>
> The manual talks about relieving the starboard flange assembly locally
> for the "hinge pivot" but sez nothin bout removing enough of the
> thickness of the assembly in such a way which would allow for the fin
> and starboard rudder surfaces to be in the same plane, unless one were
> to add a significant amount of filler.
>
> I'm tempted to remove portions of the starboard flange of the
> sternpost just a tad larger than the area of the hinge leaves; then
> add and overlap onto the sternpost the 2 layers of BID upon which will
> rest the hinges.
>
> Please (anyone) advise if doing this is not a good thing...or
> alternative methods for dealing with what must be an issue with every
> XS.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
> A194
>
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