Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:58 AM - Re: Mounting the Rudder (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
2. 08:44 AM - Re: Question (Matt Dralle)
3. 02:12 PM - Outrigger Length (Troy Maynor)
4. 02:19 PM - Brake Fluid (Troy Maynor)
5. 02:29 PM - Woodcomp (Fergus Kyle)
6. 02:54 PM - Re: Outrigger Length (Kevin Klinefelter)
7. 03:17 PM - Re: Brake Fluid (JEFF ROBERTS)
8. 09:46 PM - Re: Mounting the Rudder (danbish)
9. 09:53 PM - Re: Battery capacity (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
10. 10:51 PM - Re: Mounting the Rudder (Fred Klein)
11. 11:24 PM - Re: Mounting the Rudder (danbish)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting the Rudder |
Hi Fred
I added a second lower hinge on my XS monowheel as I am
using factory setup for monowheel tailwheel. When doing so, I added some
reinforcement on the inboard side of flange to not only stiffen things,
but to offset rudder to the starboard and a G-10 spacer.
In
other words instead of mutilating sternpost/removing materialto get
rudder offset more starboard, I put more space between the rudder hinge
and the rudder flange. It nets to perhaps halfway less filler that will be
needed compared if I left it as per manual.
I can't
remember exactly, but think lower hinges got 2 BID on the inside of the
flange and a thin ~ 1/16" piece of G-10 under the lower 2 hinges, and
it was necessary to put ~ 1/8" piece of G-10 under the middle and
upper hinge to make all have the same hinge line. Yes I needed to redo all
hinges on my rudder.
I saw fiberglass cracked around lower
hinge of a taildragger @ 2007 Rough River. There can be a lot of stress on
lower hinge with factory setup. As Graham pointed out if you were to push
both rudder pedals at the same time, or John Hurst pointed out lower hinge
area tends toget cracking around hinge area in fiberglass.
Instead of switching over to Singleton rudder/tailwheel mod I:
Added a second lower hinge
Reinforced both lower hinges 2 BID
outside and think 2 BID inside of flange
Reinforced lower heel
closeout for rudder drive
Fabricated some close fit Titanium spacers
instead of usinga stack of washers
At same time offset hinge so
rudder is moved outboard
Note on hinges, manual shows picture
(on aileron) where the part that wears out is on the surface that is
bonded and riveted. I like idea of putting part that wears out as the
movable surface much better. Also when bonding hinges,I used Redux
to make bond, and first ply of glass is Redux/BID/Peelply for better
aluminium bind.
I have some pix and details:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album223&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Ron Parigoris
Message 2
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At 08:15 AM 4/5/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>Matte,
> I have the feeling that a mod was applied to your valuable website
>which allowed correspondents to attach pictures to the (say) Europa list, as
>have seen recent references to such a scheme - AND I think I saw a notice
>giving details as to how to extract these photos.
> I've tried to research to topic but don't seem to have the knack.
> At the risk of adding to your busy day, could you confirm the
>existence of same and perhaps educate me (and/or others) as to the proper
>method of (a) adding same to our messages if warranted and (b) extracting
>same from others?
>Much obliged, Ferg
>VE3LVO@rac.ca
Hi Ferg,
Yes, quite some time ago I enabled the limited posting of some enclosure types.
Currently, these allowed types off enclosures including:
.p7s .dat .vcf .bmp .doc .dwg .dxf .gif .jpg .jpeg .pdf .png .txt .xls
The total combined size of the incoming email message cannot exceed 4Mb including
all enclosures, text, and MIME encoding.
Enclosures meeting the above criteria can be posted to the List via email or via
the web Forums interface.
Assuming the enclosures are valid and correctly encoded by the poster of the message,
they should be viewable by any usual means depending on the capabilities
of the subscribers email client and/or web client.
Enclosures are *not* included in the Digest version of the email distribution.
Enclosures are *not* included in any of the traditional List archives or search
utilities.
Enclosures *are* included indefinitely in the web Forums.
As of a few months ago, enclosures are now shown full-sized, in-line in the web
Forums. Previously, they had been only shown as icons that the user had to click
upon to view the full-sized version.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
Message 3
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| Subject: | Outrigger Length |
Hi All,
I need information on the OR2 nylon outrigger length. According to the
archive in issue 21, page 17, the length should be 315mm between OR1 and
OR3. This applies to XS aircraft and Classics with the tailwheel mod. I
don't want to trailer it to a large level concrete spot somewhere just
yet to get it spot-on. (my drive is gravel and grass). I just want to
get it close for now so I can pull it out and start the engine. Would
some of you monowheelers measure the distance at the above mentioned
spot? I'd like to get a consensus at this point. I'd like to make the
final set out of something better than nylon one day.
Troy Maynor
Message 4
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Hi Again All,
I am about to put brake fluid in and bleed the system. Before I do, I
want to make sure the data I found in the archive is correct. I read
that DOT 5 silicone is good for ALL types of systems installed on the
Europa. Mine is the original "Kart" design I think, that came with kit
no. 120. I just wanted to make sure it's not going to consume my seals
before I put it in. Any comments or suggestions.
Troy Maynor
Message 5
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David Joyce:
Thank you for your discussion of the SR3000-3 as I have one....
Mike Duane:
Good idea to have someone display the hub and circuitry for the
prop, for both the
Constant speed And the reversing model - and then beg the artistry of those
confident to comment on them. I'm sure Woodcomp would be insulted, but I'd
feel better. It must be admitted the plant comes from a pretty solid history
of prop and compressor production, particularly for the nearby aircraft
factory.
Ferg
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Outrigger Length |
Troy,
Mine measure 317mm. They both touch on level ground with the plane empty
and the tire at about 18psi.
I am testing 1/2 inch fiberglass rod stock going into short nylon
bushings in the OR1 and OR3 to see if I can make an outrigger that will
have a similar flex but not break. I'll post the results of my tests
here.
Kevin
50 hours on Monowheel N211KA so far...
----- Original Message -----
From: Troy Maynor
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 2:11 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Outrigger Length
Hi All,
I need information on the OR2 nylon outrigger length. According to the
archive in issue 21, page 17, the length should be 315mm between OR1 and
OR3. This applies to XS aircraft and Classics with the tailwheel mod. I
don't want to trailer it to a large level concrete spot somewhere just
yet to get it spot-on. (my drive is gravel and grass). I just want to
get it close for now so I can pull it out and start the engine. Would
some of you monowheelers measure the distance at the above mentioned
spot? I'd like to get a consensus at this point. I'd like to make the
final set out of something better than nylon one day.
Troy Maynor
Message 7
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Hi Troy,
You are good to go on the dot-5. Sounds like your starting to see the
light at the end of the tunnel. Any chance you'll be doing some lose
formation flying at Rough River this year? ;o)
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 176 hours and back in the air.
On Apr 5, 2009, at 4:18 PM, Troy Maynor wrote:
> Hi Again All,
> I am about to put brake fluid in and bleed the system. Before I do, I
> want to make sure the data I found in the archive is correct. I read
> that DOT 5 silicone is good for ALL types of systems installed on the
> Europa. Mine is the original "Kart" design I think, that came with kit
> no. 120. I just wanted to make sure it's not going to consume my
> seals before I put it in. Any comments or suggestions.
> Troy Maynor
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting the Rudder |
Hi Fred,
For what it's worth, I just posted a bunch of photos of the rudder install. Sounds
like we're working on the same thing. I too, found that the joggle on the
sternpost was way too thick so I sanded it off and made a flat surface for the
hinge. Now, there's a major difference here in that the guys that started the
kit went with one long hinge instead of the 3 smaller ones per the manual. So
I had to get a somewhat smooth and level surface top to bottom.
To accomplish this, I scuff sanded then did a layup of epoxy and micro, applied
a straight edge, then let cure. Sanded it down to the same approximate thickness
top to bottom, drilled holes for clecos then trial fitted the rudder and it
worked fine. I have to loosed the clecos, then install the rudder pin, then
cleco back but it is snug and firm and operates fine to both sides.
The photos aren't captioned yet but I'm working on that. They at:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=Rudder-Tailwheel&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=2
Let me know if you have any questions,
Dan
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Battery capacity |
Hi Frans
I was looking at this website and thought it may be
of interest to you to get more information on this battery:
http://www.braillebattery.com/index.php/batteries/b106/#
If you have battery up front can consider carbon fiber:
http://www.braillebattery.com/index.php/tech/view/braille_carbon_fiber_batteries_cooler_appearance_and_battery_temps/
http://www.braillebattery.com/index.php/batteries/b106c/#
I don't know anything more than whatI see online.
Ron Parigoris
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting the Rudder |
On Apr 5, 2009, at 9:43 PM, danbish wrote:
>
> For what it's worth, I just posted a bunch of photos of the rudder
> install. Sounds like we're working on the same thing.
Hey Dan...thanks mucho.
Your pixs are great...I did notice one thing which may be of interest.
I notice on photo #58 that you have the Graham S. tailwheel set up (as
do I). I see that you have the original horn which receives the cables
for the tail wheel...I believe the holes are 4" o.c. In a memorable
conversation I had with William Mills at SnF '07, he strongly
recommended making up a replacement which would have 3 sets of holes,
4", 5", and 6" o.c. respectively to give one a means of adjusting the
sensitivity of the turning of the tailwheel in relation to that of the
rudder. William believed that the novice Europa mono driver would find
handling the mono, particularly on hard surface, much easier to get
the knack of it with the cables out at the 6" o.c. holes. This set up
does have the drawback of increasing the minimum turning radius
somewhat...so as one acclimates to the mono and gets the pucker factor
within reason, it would be desireable to transition to the narrower
spread. If you'd like a pix of it, I'd be happy to send you one.
Fred
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting the Rudder |
Hi Fred,
I think I have that pix already as I have heard about that change. I had decided
to try it like it is to start, having learned in a tail dragger I was hoping
it wouldn't feel too different. If I sense a big difference on taxi tests, I'll
make the change then. Not that I'm opposed to it, just have so many "to-do's"
and mods already, trying to keep it to a minimum.
Nonetheless, the advice and notice is much appreciated. I put some notes up with
the photos tonight if they're of any interest to you.
All the best,
Dan
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
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