Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:33 AM - rudder mounting (Graham Singleton)
2. 12:42 AM - Re: Brake Fluid (pjeffers@talktalk.net)
3. 05:12 AM - Re: Outrigger Length (h&jeuropa)
4. 12:18 PM - Re: Mounting the Rudder (Fred Klein)
5. 03:18 PM - Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! (glenn crowder)
6. 03:40 PM - Re: Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! (Tony Krzyzewski)
7. 03:50 PM - Re: Battery capacity (Paul McAllister)
8. 05:19 PM - Re: Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! (Fred Klein)
9. 05:43 PM - Re: Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! (Karl Heindl)
10. 07:35 PM - Re: Mounting the Rudder (ALAN YERLY)
11. 08:18 PM - Re: Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! (Fred Klein)
12. 09:04 PM - Re: Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! (glenn crowder)
13. 09:28 PM - Re: Mounting the Rudder (danbish)
14. 09:50 PM - tailwheel horn (Fred Klein)
Message 1
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Hi Dan
I would recommend you go to at least 5" separation, it will give more
authority on the ground.
Also remember that it is essential to have the tail hard on the ground at
anything less than about 30 kts.
Graham
----- Original Message -----
From: "danbish" <bdanbish@gmail.com <mailto:bdanbish@gmail.com>>
> Hi Fred,
>
> I think I have that pix already as I have heard about that change. I had
> decided to try it like it is to start, having learned in a tail
dragger I
> was hoping it wouldn't feel too different. If I sense a big
difference on
> taxi tests, I'll make the change then. Not that I'm opposed to it, just
> have so many "to-do's" and mods already, trying to keep it to a minimum.
>
> Nonetheless, the advice and notice is much appreciated. I put some notes
> up with the photos tonight if they're of any interest to you.
>
> All the best,
>
> Dan
>
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Hi Jeff,
I presume from the fact that you refer to Kart components, that you are talking
about a Mono Wheel Europa, or a Tri gear with toe brakes.
If the Mono, then both Master cylinder and brake unit are fitted with seals that
are compatible with Dot 4 or standard automotive fluid.
If Tri gear, then the brake units ( which are different to the Mono) need dot 5
or aviation type fluid. The Kart Master cylinder in this case will have been
supplied with replacement seals to make it compatible with the brake unit.
I hope this helps.
Pete Jeffers?? 1,300 hrs and rising!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
Sent: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 22:14
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Brake Fluid
?
Hi Troy,?
You are good to go on the dot-5. Sounds like your starting to see the
light at the end of the tunnel. Any chance you'll be doing some lose
formation flying at Rough River this year? ;o)?
Jeff R.?
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 176 hours and back in the air.?
On Apr 5, 2009, at 4:18 PM, Troy Maynor wrote:?
?
> Hi Again All,?
> I am about to put brake fluid in and bleed the system. Before I do, I
> want to make sure the data I found in the archive is correct. I read
> that DOT 5 silicone is good for ALL types of systems installed on the
> Europa. Mine is the original "Kart" design I think, that came with kit
> no. 120. ?I just wanted to make sure it's not going to consume my
> seals before I put it in. Any comments or suggestions.?
> Troy Maynor?
>?
>?
?
?
?
?
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| Subject: | Re: Outrigger Length |
Troy,
We made them the length that was specified in the build manual. The distance they
are from the ground depends on how much the aircraft weighs, and changes with
contents - people, fuel, etc. Sometimes they are an inch or two above the
ground, sometimes they touch, and sometimes the outriggers bend a little.
Also learned to put the nylon rod and the aluminum fitting in the freezer. Makes
assembly easy.
Jim & Heather
N241BW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237958#237958
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting the Rudder |
On Apr 5, 2009, at 11:22 PM, danbish wrote:
> I had decided to try it like it is to start, having learned in a
> tail dragger I was hoping it wouldn't feel too different.
Dan,
With 70 hrs in J-3s and 550 in a Stinson 108, I figure I too have a
leg up on mastering the mono, but from all reports, that experience
may only be worth one leg...not the two which even a toddler needs,
even for those baby steps! :-))
May all your landings be happy ones,
Fred
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| Subject: | Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! |
http://wimp.com/firstcar/
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| Subject: | Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! |
By the time it got all of the bits added that would make it road legal
here it would be so heavy that it wouldn't be able to fly!
Tony
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| Subject: | Re: Battery capacity |
Hi All,
I am trying to determine the battery technology. Unless I am missing it, I
can't find it stated. Can anyone else ?
I did find a light weight battery for the race car fraternity that was Li
Ion, that was 4 pounds at around 16 a/h capacity, but I have lost the URL.
The Li Ion tehnology brings with it different problems. I saw a very
impressive video demonstrating a nail piercing a set of cells, the result
was explosive to say the least.
Anyhow, if anyone tumbles over the URL please forward it on to me.
Cheers, Paul
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! |
On Apr 6, 2009, at 3:16 PM, glenn crowder wrote:
> http://wimp.com/firstcar/
Yeah Glenn...I've been watching that puppy...when I first saw it, I
thought someone had put wings on an Aptera....Gee, I wonder why they
use a Rotax rather than a SooB? :-))
http://www.aptera.com/
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| Subject: | Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! |
From: fklein@orcasonline.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown!
Fred Klein wrote:
Yeah Glenn...I've been watching that puppy...when I first saw it=2C I thoug
ht someone had put wings on an Aptera....Gee=2C I wonder why they use a Rot
ax rather than a SooB? :-))
Is the Soob a certified aircraft engine ? It's news to me. And what about t
he weight ?
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting the Rudder |
Just a thought out loud Fred,
Reflecting back on how the original classic was made, you know
Fred...Cutting down the skin to fit the flange would work (provided you
cleaned up the edge, and reglassed over it. It would give you a flat
surface and prevent those stupid rudder hinge screws from being on an
angle... Of course you could cut the flange as well I suppose.
It will take you more time,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Klein<mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 11:54 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mounting the Rudder
Craig and Bud...thanks for the replies...and I agree that life is too
short!
Yes I understand about cutting the joggles where they conflict w/ the
rudder swing and/or hinge leaves.
I had been thinking of the rudder flange as being/functioning just
like the aileron flanges...w/ the ailerons, of course, the idea is to
have the surface of the flange in the same plane as the surface of the
wing at the rear closeout...not so easy to do w/ the rudder and the
abutting surface of the fin on the starboard side.
My point is that because of the difference in thickness between the
rudder flange (where one hinge leaf sits) and the sternpost + fin skin
(where the other hinge leaf sits)...the starboard surface of the rudder
will not be in the same plane as the surface of the fin...it will be
offset by whatever the difference in thickness of the two components.
I don't see that as necessarily being a problem...especially if one
can split the difference and end up w/ the planes of fin skin and rudder
on both sides being offset equally.
What I didn't understand was whether the goal was to keep the
starboard side of fin and rudder in one plane...or split the difference?
Bud...what I'm taking away from your response is to NOT cut out the
sternpost flange to provide a seat for the hinge leaves, and the planar
issues I describe are unimportant, as long as everything is straight and
true.
Fred
On Apr 4, 2009, at 7:35 PM, ALAN YERLY wrote:
Fred,
It is as Craig said. Only remove the area where the dumb joggle
juts out and interferes with the hinge.
The lower section is very thick and if you did not clamp your stern
post in tight, it tends to be 3/16 of an inch thick.
I just fill in the rudder area and blend. Life is too short.
Cutting the stern post would weaken the area somewhat, but proper
reapplication of plies would make a significant reduction in the
thickness.
Just a thought.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Klein<mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Mounting the Rudder
<fklein@orcasonline.com<mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com>>
...just as an aside, the concept of "trial fitting"...the time and
the
number of repetitions required...is something I had no real
appreciation for at the beginning of my Europa adventure...
Regarding the rudder, I notice that the flange which receives the
hinges is significantly thinner than the assembly of the molded FG
vertical fin along with the starboard flange of the sternpost, an
assembly which also receives the rudder hinge leaves.
The manual talks about relieving the starboard flange assembly
locally
for the "hinge pivot" but sez nothin bout removing enough of the
thickness of the assembly in such a way which would allow for the
fin
and starboard rudder surfaces to be in the same plane, unless one
were
to add a significant amount of filler.
I'm tempted to remove portions of the starboard flange of the
sternpost just a tad larger than the area of the hinge leaves;
then
add and overlap onto the sternpost the 2 layers of BID upon which
will
rest the hinges.
Please (anyone) advise if doing this is not a good thing...or
alternative methods for dealing with what must be an issue with
every
XS.
Thanks,
Fred
A194
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! |
On Apr 6, 2009, at 5:41 PM, Karl Heindl wrote:
> Fred Klein wrote:
>
> Yeah Glenn...I've been watching that puppy...when I first saw it, I
> thought someone had put wings on an Aptera....Gee, I wonder why they
> use a Rotax rather than a SooB? :-))
>
> Is the Soob a certified aircraft engine ? It's news to me. And what
> about the weight ?
Hi Karl,
My question was rhetorical and in jest, alluding first to Glenn's Soob-
powered Europa, and second to my twisted mind's realization that,
well, if it's a flying "car", why not use an automotive engine.
I have no doubt the company has selected the best available powerplant!
Cheers,
Fred
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| Subject: | Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown! |
The Ram EA81 115 and 140 hp versions are being offered as upgrades on this
LSA
http://www.americanpatriotaircraft.com/engines.html .
Here's an Aus unit=2C the Terrier Foxcon LSA that uses the EA81.
http://www.foxcon.com/
and another Ozzie=2C the Cobra Arrow looks great
http://www.tomair.com.au/
But my favorite is the Vision=2C more of a plans built machine with availab
le subunits.
157 mph cruise on 100 hp EA81. Sweet!
http://www.visionaircraft.com/
From: fklein@orcasonline.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax powered flying car has well --- flown!
On Apr 6=2C 2009=2C at 5:41 PM=2C Karl Heindl wrote:
Fred Klein wrote:
Yeah Glenn...I've been watching that puppy...when I first saw it=2C I thoug
ht someone had put wings on an Aptera....Gee=2C I wonder why they use a Rot
ax rather than a SooB? :-))
Is the Soob a certified aircraft engine ? It's news to me. And what about t
he weight ?
Hi Karl=2C
My question was rhetorical and in jest=2C alluding first to Glenn's Soob-po
wered Europa=2C and second to my twisted mind's realization that=2C well=2C
if it's a flying "car"=2C why not use an automotive engine.
I have no doubt the company has selected the best available powerplant!
Cheers=2C
Fred
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting the Rudder |
Hey Fred,
I'll take you up on that diagram after all, if you have it. Can't put my hands
on mine. Will add it to my mod list.
Thanks,
Dan
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 14
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>
> Hey Fred,
>
> I'll take you up on that diagram after all, if you have it. Can't
> put my hands on mine. Will add it to my mod list.
Dan...hope this photo will do the trick...the inboard most set of
holes are the same as Graham's original which I used as a template
while extending the arms for the additional holes.
Fred
Roll 41 - 63
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