Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:38 AM - Prop Rotation (flyingphil2)
2. 01:56 AM - Re: Prop Rotation (Frans Veldman)
3. 02:23 AM - Re: Prop Rotation (Raimo Toivio)
4. 02:42 AM - Re: Battery disconnect......... (Frans Veldman)
5. 03:49 AM - Re: LED Landing Lights (Graham Singleton)
6. 08:24 AM - Mod 70 (Curtis Jaussi)
7. 09:43 AM - Re: Mod 70 (Raimo Toivio)
8. 01:05 PM - Re: Mod 70 (Christoph Both)
9. 05:14 PM - Re: Mod 70 (ALAN YERLY)
Message 1
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Hi,
Quick question. If (one day when it's finished) I am sitting in the cockpit looking
forward with my warp drive prop attached to my Rotax 912S, which way will
the prop rotate?
Or, what 'hand' of warp drive prop do I need for a Rotax 912S?
Thanks,
Phil
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Prop Rotation |
flyingphil2 wrote:
> Quick question. If (one day when it's finished) I am sitting in the cockpit
looking forward with my warp drive prop attached to my Rotax 912S, which way will
the prop rotate?
clockwise.
Frans
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Prop Rotation |
My 912S is turning Airmaster=B4s Warp blades clockwise at least in my
case...
That is valid when looking by pilot=B4s eyes.
Look a little arrow which is painted to the lower cowling!
Raimo OH-XRT
----- Original Message -----
From: "flyingphil2" <ptiller@lolacars.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:36 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Prop Rotation
<ptiller@lolacars.com>
>
> Hi,
>
> Quick question. If (one day when it's finished) I am sitting in the
cockpit looking forward with my warp drive prop attached to my Rotax
912S, which way will the prop rotate?
>
> Or, what 'hand' of warp drive prop do I need for a Rotax 912S?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Battery disconnect......... |
Fergus Kyle wrote:
> My question is prompted by the above. I have built a coming monster
> due to wanting to populate it with amateur radio "electro-whizzies" (as Bob
> says). This brought me to wondering how I can reduce longterm demands on
> current supply.
Here are some ideas:
1) Spend more time listening than transmitting. With a duty cycle of
25%, you need only one quarter of the alternator supply. During
listening it can charge the battery, and during transmissions the
battery can supply part of the power.
2) Go QRP. Or at least, use only half te power. 3dB less signal is
barely noticable on the other end, but cuts the power demands in half.
It has the advantages of causing less RF-related troubles in the ship as
well.
3) Use SSB with not too much compression.
> I added an SD20S but a 100watt HF transceiver can eat
> 20amps easily, I know (car history).
Yes, on constant carrier. But why would you want to do that?
With SSB with a reasonable compression power demand would go down to 5
amps average, with 3db reduction it is already down to 2.5 amps, and
with a duty cycle of 25%, your average power demand would actually be
less than 1 amp.
So what is your problem?
> This led to the idea that the master contactor wants an amp or so all its
Well, electronic shops sell relais (mainly targeted to the car industry)
capable of handling 40 amps, and using less than 200mA or so for the coil.
> My question is:
> Have I done a useful thing? What is the expected useful life of a fairly
> simple (and supposedly rugged) device compared to these usual contactors?
Well, to be honest, I don't find it useful (otherwise I would have done
something similar ;-) ). I too have a SD20S, but a split main battery so
I have fully separate electrical systems, and switch them with high
quality "car-type" relais (with good paperwork) to keep the unswitched
leads as short as possible for highest safety and have the power
switches at a logical and convenient location at the same time. And in
the very unlikely case that a relais would fail, I would always have
another independent bus going. I would without hesistation connect my
Icom-706 to this electrical system, without any other changes than
bonding all electrical parts of the airplane together and installing
bridges over all hinges and bearings to minimise receiver noise (which
is most likely going to be your biggest challenge). I also suspect that
you are going to need to do "something" to the ignition system of the
Rotax which is probably designed for max performance and reliability,
and not for best RFI-suppression on the HF-bands.
Frans
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: LED Landing Lights |
I have a high power LED torch that Paul McAllister recommended. I
noticed recently that when its on (continuous ) it strobes, quite fast
but it isn't constantly on. Must be the switching that causes the
interference.
Graham
CHUCK RHOADS wrote:
> The weather finally got warm enough that I could spend some time
> working on my LED landing lights from J.C. Whitney and try to solve
> the severe static problems during transmitting. After talking with
> some friends and a electrical engineer I decided to try the old method
> that we used 40 years ago on car radios. I went to the local auto
> parts store, Advance Auto, and bought their radio noise suppressor,
> less than $6.00. It works wonderfully well. It apparently contains a
> capacitor and an inductor.
>
> For the purpose that I plan to use the lights, to be seen by other
> aircraft during landing, I am very happy with the results. At my
> present airport night landings, is in my opinion are just for those
> with a death wish, three times I have been at my hanger at night and
> two time there were deer within 200 feet of the hanger that I had to
> slow the car down to wait until they got off the hanger access road.
>
> Have a wonderful summer,
> Chuck Rhoads
> A100 115hours
>
>
Message 6
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I'm just getting back to getting N6125 in the air again after a couple of
years away from flying. I am upgrading the engine to a Jason Parker 914
turbo, fuel injected and other mods that have come out since I put things in
mothballs. I ahve installed the springs that replace the bungie and am
pleased with how that went. The question I have is about the necessity of
the mass balance arm replacement as it seems to be a challenging job. How
important do others find it for a tri-gear flown from paved runways. Have
most builders in the US made this change? What are the opinions? It's
great to be back to the Europa.
Curtis Jaussi
Tri gear 914
40 hours flown in 2006
Message 7
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It was not. Really. Just couple of hours and one good friend.
The necessity...there is no exact answer - you have to decide it by
yourself.
I did it anyway and there was not any force to do it.
And no question - it is better.
What ever can be better.
Changing bungee for springs must have been much more challenging task!
Springs - I am interested!
Do you have maybe pics and details?
Raimo OH-XRT Finland (not in the US!)
----- Original Message -----
From: Curtis Jaussi
To: europa-list-digest@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 6:21 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 70
I'm just getting back to getting N6125 in the air again after a couple
of years away from flying. I am upgrading the engine to a Jason Parker
914 turbo, fuel injected and other mods that have come out since I put
things in mothballs. I ahve installed the springs that replace the
bungie and am pleased with how that went. The question I have is about
the necessity of the mass balance arm replacement as it seems to be a
challenging job. How important do others find it for a tri-gear flown
from paved runways. Have most builders in the US made this change?
What are the opinions? It's great to be back to the Europa.
Curtis Jaussi
Tri gear 914
40 hours flown in 2006
Message 8
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I agree,
Not such a big deal. I did it on my own in about 2 hours. It was a very
good test for me to see if all the access hatches and panels were are
the right places and BIG enough. A small lockable vice grip to hold the
nuts was all what was required as a "special tool". No need to even open
up the baggage bay panel.
DO IT. It is a measure of safety - the replacement mass balance is much
more sturdy - we can save weight somewhere else - not al essential
primary flight control linkages.
Christoph Both
#223 TRI (ready to be painted fuse)
Wolfville, NS Canada
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Raimo
Toivio
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
It was not. Really. Just couple of hours and one good friend.
The necessity...there is no exact answer - you have to decide it by
yourself.
I did it anyway and there was not any force to do it.
And no question - it is better.
What ever can be better.
Changing bungee for springs must have been much more challenging task!
Springs - I am interested!
Do you have maybe pics and details?
Raimo OH-XRT Finland (not in the US!)
----- Original Message -----
From: Curtis Jaussi <mailto:cjaussi@gmail.com>
To: europa-list-digest@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 6:21 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 70
I'm just getting back to getting N6125 in the air again after a
couple of years away from flying. I am upgrading the engine to a Jason
Parker 914 turbo, fuel injected and other mods that have come out since
I put things in mothballs. I ahve installed the springs that replace
the bungie and am pleased with how that went. The question I have is
about the necessity of the mass balance arm replacement as it seems to
be a challenging job. How important do others find it for a tri-gear
flown from paved runways. Have most builders in the US made this
change? What are the opinions? It's great to be back to the Europa.
Curtis Jaussi
Tri gear 914
40 hours flown in 2006
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matron
h
ref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 9
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Curtis...
If you built the mass balance arm properly and didn't bugger up the holes o
r have a tail wheel type=2C the original mass balance arm seems to be holdi
ng up. But over time=2C side play will wallow out the 3/16 holes and that
is what we were concerned about.
I hope you have a good sized access hole. If you do=2C it takes 2-4 hours
depending on turnbuckles=2C cables=2C your tower width=2C etc. Pretty muc
h a no brainer.
The new part is properly made and will serve many years without fail. If y
ou install the TP18 butterfly attachment for the cables it takes 4 hours.
So cut the old cables=2C pull out the arm with weights. Assemble the new a
rm on the bench. Rig up a small turnbuckle from A/C Spruce and throw the t
hing in. As for the phenolic parts=2C I use #8 screws as they countersink
easier. I use a dab of double back sticky tape to set the rub strip where
I want it then add just a dab of slow setting thick superglue=2C check it a
gain and hit it with the accellerator. I have an angle drill that makes th
e premade holes I make easy to do by feel. Insert the nuts and screws=2C a
nd pull down. I have some one handed gimicks I use like a cut off stubby s
crewdriver that wedges into the post slot and holds the screw. Then I put
on the nut and crank her down.
Call me when you need one.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations (813) 653-4989
Europa Dealer
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 70
From: cjaussi@gmail.com
I'm just getting back to getting N6125 in the air again after a couple of y
ears away from flying. I am upgrading the engine to a Jason Parker 914 tur
bo=2C fuel injected and other mods that have come out since I put things in
mothballs. I ahve installed the springs that replace the bungie and am pl
eased with how that went. The question I have is about the necessity of th
e mass balance arm replacement as it seems to be a challenging job. How im
portant do others find it for a tri-gear flown from paved runways. Have mo
st builders in the US made this change? What are the opinions? It's grea
t to be back to the Europa.
Curtis Jaussi
Tri gear 914
40 hours flown in 2006
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