Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:12 AM - Re: Mod 70 (nwcmc@tiscali.co.uk)
2. 12:18 AM - Re: Mod 70 (nwcmc@tiscali.co.uk)
3. 01:57 AM - Was Re: Mod 70.... Now my ramblings on my trike nose wheel set up. (Robert C Harrison)
4. 02:41 AM - Re: Mod 70 (Tim Houlihan)
5. 03:42 AM - Aileron setting and more (UVTReith)
6. 04:40 AM - Re: Michigan Airports (h&jeuropa)
7. 05:18 AM - Re: Mod 70 (Raimo Toivio)
8. 06:04 AM - Re: Mod 70 (Karl Heindl)
9. 07:52 AM - Re: pitot tube connectors (rampil)
10. 09:18 AM - Mono Undercarrige Spring vs Bungee (Erich Trombley)
11. 10:39 AM - Trim Damper Assembly (Fred Klein)
12. 01:39 PM - Pictures Needed! (Jeffrey J Paris)
13. 03:05 PM - Re: Pictures Needed! (Tom Friedland)
14. 03:35 PM - Re: Pictures Needed! (Robert C Harrison)
15. 03:53 PM - Re: Pictures Needed! (Bob Berube)
16. 04:20 PM - Re: Pictures Needed! (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
17. 07:44 PM - Re: Pictures Needed! (William McClellan)
18. 11:38 PM - Re: Trim Damper Assembly (Frans Veldman)
Message 1
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I had a look at this and decided that it was probably not practical. The re
ason is because the tension on the bungee cord is relatively constant from
the gear being fully up to fully down. This would be difficult to achieve w
ith the limited length and extension of a conventional spring. The only way
I could see it working is if the geometry was arranged so that the moment
arm increased as the gear was raised. Space is quite limiting in this area
so I gave up at this point
Nigel Charles.
----Original Message----
From: rlborger@mac.com
Subj: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
Raimo,
My understanding from discussions with Nev is that the spring reaction of a
metal spring is incorrect for this application.
Bob B
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 14, 2009, at 11:19, Raimo Toivio <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi> wrote:
Bud and all
is there any mod that replaces bungee to spring(s) in mono?
I read Curtis Jaussi=C2=B4s earlier message carelessly and thought there is
but understood later he has a trike and has replaced trike=C2=B4s bungee to
springs.
Raimo OH-XRT
----- Original Message -----
From: ALAN YERLY
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 3:12 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 70
Curtis...
If you built the mass balance arm properly and didn't bugger up the holes o
r have a tail wheel type, the original mass balance arm seems to be holding
up. But over time, side play will wallow out the 3/16 holes and that is w
hat we were concerned about.
I hope you have a good sized access hole. If you do, it takes 2-4 hours d
epending on turnbuckles, cables, your tower width, etc. Pretty much a no b
rainer.
The new part is properly made and will serve many years without fail. If y
ou install the TP18 butterfly attachment for the cables it takes 4 hours.
So cut the old cables, pull out the arm with weights. Assemble the new arm
on the bench. Rig up a small turnbuckle from A/C Spruce and throw the thi
ng in. As for the phenolic parts, I use #8 screws as they countersink easi
er. I use a dab of double back sticky tape to set the rub strip where I wa
nt it then add just a dab of slow setting thick superglue, check it again a
nd hit it with the accellerator. I have an angle drill that makes the prem
ade holes I make easy to do by feel. Insert the nuts and screws, and pull
down. I have some one handed gimicks I use like a cut off stubby screwdriv
er that wedges into the post slot and holds the screw. Then I put on the n
ut and crank her down.
Call me when you need one.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations (813) 653-4989
Europa Dealer
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 70
From: cjaussi@gmail.com
I'm just getting back to getting N6125 in the air again after a couple of y
ears away from flying. I am upgrading the engine to a Jason Parker 914 tur
bo, fuel injected and other mods that have come out since I put things in m
othballs. I ahve installed the springs that replace the bungie and am plea
sed with how that went. The question I have is about the necessity of the
mass balance arm replacement as it seems to be a challenging job. How impo
rtant do others find it for a tri-gear flown from paved runways. Have most
builders in the US made this change? What are the opinions? It's great
to be back to the Europa.
Curtis Jaussi
Tri gear 914
40 hours flown in 2006
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
http://www.tiscali.co.uk/services - Find out what Tiscali can do for you
Message 2
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Just to make the point clear. The bungee on the mono is nothing to do with
suspension. It is there to assist the weight of the mainwheel for gear retr
action.
Regards
Nigel Charles
----Original Message----
From: rlborger@mac.com
Subj: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
Raimo,
My understanding from discussions with Nev is that the spring reaction of a
metal spring is incorrect for this application.
Bob B
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 14, 2009, at 11:19, Raimo Toivio <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi> wrote:
Bud and all
is there any mod that replaces bungee to spring(s) in mono?
I read Curtis Jaussi=C2=B4s earlier message carelessly and thought there is
but understood later he has a trike and has replaced trike=C2=B4s bungee to
springs.
Raimo OH-XRT
----- Original Message -----
From: ALAN YERLY
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 3:12 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 70
Curtis...
If you built the mass balance arm properly and didn't bugger up the holes o
r have a tail wheel type, the original mass balance arm seems to be holding
up. But over time, side play will wallow out the 3/16 holes and that is w
hat we were concerned about.
I hope you have a good sized access hole. If you do, it takes 2-4 hours d
epending on turnbuckles, cables, your tower width, etc. Pretty much a no b
rainer.
The new part is properly made and will serve many years without fail. If y
ou install the TP18 butterfly attachment for the cables it takes 4 hours.
So cut the old cables, pull out the arm with weights. Assemble the new arm
on the bench. Rig up a small turnbuckle from A/C Spruce and throw the thi
ng in. As for the phenolic parts, I use #8 screws as they countersink easi
er. I use a dab of double back sticky tape to set the rub strip where I wa
nt it then add just a dab of slow setting thick superglue, check it again a
nd hit it with the accellerator. I have an angle drill that makes the prem
ade holes I make easy to do by feel. Insert the nuts and screws, and pull
down. I have some one handed gimicks I use like a cut off stubby screwdriv
er that wedges into the post slot and holds the screw. Then I put on the n
ut and crank her down.
Call me when you need one.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations (813) 653-4989
Europa Dealer
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 70
From: cjaussi@gmail.com
I'm just getting back to getting N6125 in the air again after a couple of y
ears away from flying. I am upgrading the engine to a Jason Parker 914 tur
bo, fuel injected and other mods that have come out since I put things in m
othballs. I ahve installed the springs that replace the bungie and am plea
sed with how that went. The question I have is about the necessity of the
mass balance arm replacement as it seems to be a challenging job. How impo
rtant do others find it for a tri-gear flown from paved runways. Have most
builders in the US made this change? What are the opinions? It's great
to be back to the Europa.
Curtis Jaussi
Tri gear 914
40 hours flown in 2006
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?Europa-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
http://www.tiscali.co.uk/services - Find out what Tiscali can do for you
Message 3
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| Subject: | Mod 70.... Now my ramblings on my trike nose wheel |
set up.
Karl and all,
IMHO the steel springs or the bungee on a trike nose gear are all meant
to purely accommodate severe shock on a bad landing which otherwise
would have a drastic effect on the nose leg, that is it permits the leg
to move upon receiving a sudden load which otherwise would take it in to
yield stress regions. The so called suspension of the nose wheel depends
entirely on the leg itself flexing. ( That's not to say I like the idea
so don't shoot the messenger!) In any case too much suspension you need
a new propeller ! I had a bad experience with the bungee ( well one or
two really !) when the bump stop had passed through the lays of reeved
bungee cutting through the bungee letting the nose leg extend to the
wire safety strap. Francis Donaldson gave me dispensation to put the
bump stop the other way up fixed to the upper tube and bumping on the
leg between the lays of bungee. This worked OK and so it didn't need to
pass between any bungee reeving. ( I also managed on a wheel barrow
landing to bend the leg downwards prompting Neville Eyre to quip "had I
landed wrong way up ?" Andy Draper was present and so realized there and
then that due to the geometry of the castering pivot any load from
forward of the wheel centre line actually will result in the leg being
bent downwards!
Since my nose wheel departed on a "greaser" landing event (now with the
leg replaced and springs employed) I have an extended pivot spindle with
two roll pins as keepers in place of the single one all has been well.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
Sent: 15 April 2009 02:43
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 70
My own experience confirms this. A spring suspension on the mono would
cause some very interesting landings. It's bad enough on a trike. Very
similar to : removing the shock absorbers from the front suspension of
your car, and driving it at 80 90 km/h along a bumpy grass field.
Karl
> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 00:51:44 +0100
> From: grahamsingleton@btinternet.com
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
<grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
>
> Robert Borger wrote:
> > Raimo,
> >
> > My understanding from discussions with Nev is that the spring
reaction
> > of a metal spring is incorrect for this application.
> >
> > Bob B
> The important point is that rubber has a damping effect but steel does
> not. This is why rubber, (elastic) is better than steel (springs) for
> undercarriages.
> Think about it, a spring goes "boingyoingoing" but a rubber band goes
> "thwack"
> Graham
&g===========
>
>
>
Message 4
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Karl.
I may be wrong on this as I am working from my memory which can be very
suspect.
My understanding of the Mono undercarriage is that the rubber bungee's
are there to assist with lifting the wheel assembly to the retracted
position. The suspension is managed by the "rubber" block between the
reaction plates. any damping is due to the "thwack" effect mentioned by
Graham, or by the optional , at least it was optional on the Classic,
twin shock absorbers fitted through the middle of the elastomer block.
Tim
Karl Heindl wrote:
>
>
> My own experience confirms this. A spring suspension on the mono would
> cause some very interesting landings. It's bad enough on a trike. Very
> similar to : removing the shock absorbers from the front suspension of
> your car, and driving it at 80 90 km/h along a bumpy grass field.
>
> Karl
>
> >
> <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
> >
> > Robert Borger wrote:
> > > Raimo,
> > >
> > > My understanding from discussions with Nev is that the spring
> reaction
> > > of a metal spring is incorrect for this application.
> > >
> > > Bob B
> > The important point is that rubber has a damping effect but steel does
> > not. This is why rubber, (elastic) is better than steel (springs) for
> > undercarriages.
> > Think about it, a spring goes "boingyoingoing" but a rubber band goes
> > "thwack"
> > Graham
> &g===========
> >
> >
> >
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Aileron setting and more |
Hi Europa Family,
At present I am working on fine trimming, weight and balance etc.
When I measured the angles of my ailerons, they are quite different and need
correct setting.
How can I do the adjustments of this?
Thanks for help.
Best Regards,
Bruno Reith / UVT Reith
XS Mono
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Michigan Airports |
Hi Dave,
Michigan airports that have customs are:
Detroit City, Detroit Metro, Detroit Willow Run and Port Huron.
Michigan landing rights airports (you have to call for customs an hour or two before
arrival) are Alpena, Battle Creek, Bay City, Flint, Grand Rapids, Kalamazoo,
Pontiac, Saginaw and Sault Ste Marie.
We'd be happy to meet you at Kalamazoo any time! Great restaurant just across
the street. Some commercial traffic and some flight training but not a hectic
airport. There is a tower and radar service. Looks like about 200 NM from London.
Email us (butcher43@att.net) and come on over!
Jim & Heather
N241BW Mono 914
Do Not Archieve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239290#239290
Message 7
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Tim
I am not pro and should be more carefull but I am sure you are right.
Mono bungee has nothing to do with landing /suspension, damping or bouncing.
It is only to help pilot to retract.
Manual page 29-5: "To assist pilot in retracting the LG into the centre tunnel
a bungee cord is used".
So, if you loose it, no worries.
I think mono is still retractable w/o bungee and if not - so what?
Coming back to my original question:
I cannot see any obvious problem if changing bungee to spring.
Spring could be more permanent solution, easier to adjust and optimize and no time
period.
Probably spring is heavier than bungee anyway and more expensive solution also.
For example I would like to have my bungee more powerful.
It is quite easy to retract but that exercise is not sophisticated enough (!).
Definetely I am not going to tighten it up because of hard labor.
Too taut bungee is probaly giving upp earlier.
So professors - how is a spring???
Raimo OH-XRT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Houlihan" <houlihan@blueyonder.co.uk>
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
> Karl.
> I may be wrong on this as I am working from my memory which can be very
> suspect.
> My understanding of the Mono undercarriage is that the rubber bungee's
> are there to assist with lifting the wheel assembly to the retracted
> position. The suspension is managed by the "rubber" block between the
> reaction plates. any damping is due to the "thwack" effect mentioned by
> Graham, or by the optional , at least it was optional on the Classic,
> twin shock absorbers fitted through the middle of the elastomer block.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Karl Heindl wrote:
> >
> >
> > My own experience confirms this. A spring suspension on the mono would
> > cause some very interesting landings. It's bad enough on a trike. Very
> > similar to : removing the shock absorbers from the front suspension of
> > your car, and driving it at 80 90 km/h along a bumpy grass field.
> >
> > Karl
> >
> > >
> > <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
> > >
> > > Robert Borger wrote:
> > > > Raimo,
> > > >
> > > > My understanding from discussions with Nev is that the spring
> > reaction
> > > > of a metal spring is incorrect for this application.
> > > >
> > > > Bob B
> > > The important point is that rubber has a damping effect but steel does
> > > not. This is why rubber, (elastic) is better than steel (springs) for
> > > undercarriages.
> > > Think about it, a spring goes "boingyoingoing" but a rubber band goes
> > > "thwack"
> > > Graham
> > &g===========
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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Tim and Nigel=2C
Thanks for putting me straight. I just assumed that the mono bungee had the
same function.
On the trigear question I don't see how the bungee or springs only come int
o play on a hard landing. I think it is exactly the other way round. The bu
ngee is constantly stretching and contracting on every little bump. I can a
ctually observe that through my bulkhead window. Only when the bungee/sprin
g have reached their maximum stretch does the leg take over.
Tim mentions shock absorbers. Now that would have been ideal also for the t
rigear=2C especially to lessen the slingshot effect of the springs.
Karl
> Date: Wed=2C 15 Apr 2009 10:39:38 +0100
> From: houlihan@blueyonder.co.uk
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
k>
>
> Karl.
> I may be wrong on this as I am working from my memory which can be very
> suspect.
> My understanding of the Mono undercarriage is that the rubber bungee's
> are there to assist with lifting the wheel assembly to the retracted
> position. The suspension is managed by the "rubber" block between the
> reaction plates. any damping is due to the "thwack" effect mentioned by
> Graham=2C or by the optional =2C at least it was optional on the Classic
=2C
> twin shock absorbers fitted through the middle of the elastomer block.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Karl Heindl wrote:
> >
> >
> > My own experience confirms this. A spring suspension on the mono would
> > cause some very interesting landings. It's bad enough on a trike. Very
> > similar to : removing the shock absorbers from the front suspension of
> > your car=2C and driving it at 80 90 km/h along a bumpy grass field.
> >
> > Karl
> >
> > >
> > <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
> > >
> > > Robert Borger wrote:
> > > > Raimo=2C
> > > >
> > > > My understanding from discussions with Nev is that the spring
> > reaction
> > > > of a metal spring is incorrect for this application.
> > > >
> > > > Bob B
> > > The important point is that rubber has a damping effect but steel doe
s
> > > not. This is why rubber=2C (elastic) is better than steel (springs) f
or
> > > undercarriages.
> > > Think about it=2C a spring goes "boingyoingoing" but a rubber band go
es
> > > "thwack"
> > > Graham
> > &g===========
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> >
> >
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: pitot tube connectors |
If you would something really nice for the panel connection and the wing root,
check out the Winter 9005 5x quick-disconnect at
http://www.cumulus-soaring.com/winter.htm#Tubing,_Connectors,_and_Miscellaneous
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239312#239312
Message 10
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| Subject: | Mono Undercarrige Spring vs Bungee |
Graham, wrote,
The important point is that rubber has a damping effect but steel doe
s not. This is why rubber, (elastic) is better than steel (springs) for
undercarriages. Think about it, a spring goes "boingyoingoing" but a rub
ber band goes "thwack."
I would normally agree with your statement related to the damping effect
of a bungee, however, in the application of the undercarriage (mono) th
e bungee is to assist with the retraction of the landing gear not to pro
vide dampening. Dampening is performed with the rubber block and shock
absorbers.
Erich Trombley
N28ET Classic Mono 914
____________________________________________________________
Lower rates for Veterans. Click for VA loan information.
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Trim Damper Assembly |
All,
Before bonding on the top, I want to be certain that the Trim Damper
Assembly is properly adjusted, particularly w/ respect to the amount
of friction when it moves in the slot in TS01. As far as I can tell,
the Build Manual does not address this question, yet it would appear
to be key to having the pitch control system function properly without
burning up the pitch trim motor. I can't seem to get my mind around
the function of this seemingly elaborate confusion of spring, tube,
thru bolt, and nuts of various sizes...it's complexity suggests that,
when properly adjusted, it performs a critical function.
I reference Fig. 2, p. 19-2, and Step 4 & Fig. 6 on p. 19-4.
Can anyone please enlighten me on what proper adjustment would be?
Thanks in advance,
Fred
--
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Message 12
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| Subject: | Pictures Needed! |
Dear Europa Listers,I am looking for any detailed pictures of anyone out in
Europaland who has sucessfully integrated a Jabiru 3300 into an original Eur
opa/Rotax cowling. =C2-From my current research it look as if a Europa/JAb
iru cowling is not available in the US. =C2-Bud Yerly of =C2- Custom Fli
ght Creations has responded that they have done such a modification, however
, it's going to take him some time to find the photos.Thank you for your tim
e and consideration.Cheers,Jeff Paris Kit #A012 Monowheel Classic Jab3300
=C2-
------------------------------------------------------------
Human Resource Training
Want to help people? Click here to learn more about human resource training
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Pictures Needed! |
Hi Jeff
I got my europa/jabiru cowling directly from Jabiru and I think that it is
better looking than the europa cowling.
Tom
On Wed, Apr 15, 2009 at 1:33 PM, Jeffrey J Paris <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com
> wrote:
> Dear Europa Listers,
> I am looking for any detailed pictures of anyone out in Europaland who has
> sucessfully integrated a Jabiru 3300 into an original Europa/Rotax cowling.
> From my current research it look as if a Europa/JAbiru cowling is not
> available in the US. Bud Yerly of Custom Flight Creations has responded
> that they have done such a modification, however, it's going to take him
> some time to find the photos.
>
> Thank you for your time and consideration.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jeff Paris Kit #A012 Monowheel Classic Jab3300
> ------------------------------
> Human Resource Training<http://tagline.excite.com/fc/FgElN1guegEkr9EYgNbsgMnfsc9plTvrx1fm3uiNMIQ9PmPu2dZn5TYcCII/> Want
> to help people? Click here to learn more about human resource training.<http://tagline.excite.com/fc/FgElN1guegEkr9EYgNbsgMnfsc9plTvrx1fm3uiNMIQ9PmPu2dZn5TYcCII/> Click
> Here For More Information<http://tagline.excite.com/fc/FgElN1guegEkr9EYgNbsgMnfsc9plTvrx1fm3uiNMIQ9PmPu2dZn5TYcCII/>
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Pictures Needed! |
Hi! Jeff
IMHO the Jabiru 3300 can not be accommodated in the existing Classic
Cowling without massive changes to the cowling . From memory the
crank/propeller shaft is about 2" higher and the installation is about
2" longer than the Rotax Cowl. I believe that the Jabiru people now
produce a cowl to fit the Europa . Just save yourself some severe head
ache, bite the bullet and get one.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG ex 3300 Now 914 Rotax
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey J
Paris
Sent: 15 April 2009 21:34
Subject: Europa-List: Pictures Needed!
Dear Europa Listers,
I am looking for any detailed pictures of anyone out in Europaland who
has sucessfully integrated a Jabiru 3300 into an original Europa/Rotax
cowling. From my current research it look as if a Europa/JAbiru cowling
is not available in the US. Bud Yerly of Custom Flight Creations has
responded that they have done such a modification, however, it's going
to take him some time to find the photos.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Cheers,
Jeff Paris Kit #A012 Monowheel Classic Jab3300
_____
<http://tagline.excite.com/fc/FgElN1guegEkr9EYgNbsgMnfsc9plTvrx1fm3uiNMI
Q9PmPu2dZn5TYcCII/> Human Resource Training
<http://tagline.excite.com/fc/FgElN1guegEkr9EYgNbsgMnfsc9plTvrx1fm3uiNMI
Q9PmPu2dZn5TYcCII/> Want to help people? Click here to learn more about
human resource training.
<http://tagline.excite.com/fc/FgElN1guegEkr9EYgNbsgMnfsc9plTvrx1fm3uiNMI
Q9PmPu2dZn5TYcCII/> Click Here For More Information
Message 15
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| Subject: | Pictures Needed! |
Jeffrey,
I think I still have the contact that made the Jab 3300 cowling for the
Europa. If your interested I will try and dig up the info. I do have a
JAB3300 cowling for the Europa in the shop but it belongs to a customer.
If your coming to the Sun n Fun show, you could take some measurements
vs the Rotax cowling if that would help. Let me know..
Regards,
Bob Berube
Flight Crafters
813 779-1156
813 695-1120 Cell
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey J
Paris
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 4:34 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Pictures Needed!
Dear Europa Listers,
I am looking for any detailed pictures of anyone out in Europaland who
has sucessfully integrated a Jabiru 3300 into an original Europa/Rotax
cowling. From my current research it look as if a Europa/JAbiru cowling
is not available in the US. Bud Yerly of Custom Flight Creations has
responded that they have done such a modification, however, it's going
to take him some time to find the photos.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Cheers,
Jeff Paris Kit #A012 Monowheel Classic Jab3300
_____
<http://tagline.excite.com/fc/FgElN1guegEkr9EYgNbsgMnfsc9plTvrx1fm3uiNMIQ
9PmPu2dZn5TYcCII/> Human Resource Training
<http://tagline.excite.com/fc/FgElN1guegEkr9EYgNbsgMnfsc9plTvrx1fm3uiNMIQ
9PmPu2dZn5TYcCII/> Want to help people? Click here to learn more about
human resource training.
<http://tagline.excite.com/fc/FgElN1guegEkr9EYgNbsgMnfsc9plTvrx1fm3uiNMIQ
9PmPu2dZn5TYcCII/> Click Here For More Information
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Pictures Needed! |
Bob-
The other option would be to use mine as a mold and make one.=C2- It woul
d be a lot of work but probably less than adapting a rotax cowl.=C2- That
might be ap "Plan B"=C2-if he can't get one made. =C2-
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Berube" <bberube@tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 6:52:11 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Pictures Needed!
Jeffrey,
I think I still have the contact that made the Jab 3300 cowling for the Eur
opa.=C2- If your interested I will try and dig up the info.=C2- I do ha
ve a JAB3300 cowling for the Europa in the shop but it belongs to a custome
r.=C2- If your coming to the Sun n Fun show, you could take some measurem
ents vs the Rotax cowling if that would help. Let me know..
Regards,
Bob Berube
Flight Crafters
813 779-1156
813 695-1120 Cell
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey J Paris
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 4:34 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Pictures Needed!
Dear Europa Listers,
I am looking for any detailed pictures of anyone out in Europaland who has
sucessfully integrated a Jabiru 3300 into an original Europa/Rotax cowling.
=C2-From my current research it look as if a Europa/JAbiru cowling is no
t available in the US. =C2-Bud Yerly of =C2- Custom Flight Creations ha
s responded that they have done such a modification, however, it's going to
take him some time to find the photos.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Cheers,
Jeff Paris Kit #A012 Monowheel Classic Jab3300=C2-
=C2-=C2-
Human Resource Training
Want to help people? Click here to learn more about human resource training
.
Click Here For More Information
=C2- =C2- http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://forums.
=====
==
Message 17
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| Subject: | Pictures Needed! |
Jeff,
I also have the Jabaru 3300 cowling for my Europa under construction. Where are
you located? I am in SoCal. I will be at Sun n Fun. If it comes to it, a
mold can be made from my cowling. It does take some time but very doable. And
I agree with Tom, I think it is a good looking cowling.
Bill McClellan
A164
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Damper Assembly |
Fred Klein wrote:
> Before bonding on the top, I want to be certain that the Trim Damper
> Assembly is properly adjusted, particularly w/ respect to the amount of
> friction when it moves in the slot in TS01. As far as I can tell, the
> Build Manual does not address this question, yet it would appear to be
> key to having the pitch control system function properly without burning
> up the pitch trim motor. I can't seem to get my mind around the function
> of this seemingly elaborate confusion of spring, tube, thru bolt, and
> nuts of various sizes...it's complexity suggests that, when properly
> adjusted, it performs a critical function.
It appears to me that the function is to take sudden load applications,
i.e. flutter, and to cancel out any slack in the system behind it,
particularly from the gears in the trim motor assembly. Any slack here
would induce flutter, and the trim damper assembly will make this slack
"invisble".
These trim motors are awfully strong, so I doubt you could adjust the
friction so much that the motor would not be able to move it anymore
and/or burn up.
Also, I believe that, despite the suggestion of "adjustable" components,
that the adjustable range is neglectible. If bolted together properly,
it is performing its intended job (whatever that may be).
> Can anyone please enlighten me on what proper adjustment would be?
I guess everyone has another perception of that the proper adjustment
would be. As of so far no Europa's have come down due to inproper
adjustment, it appears that in reality the adjustment is not critical.
The ommission about this adjustment in the manual is a further
indication that it is not critical. ;-)
I would suggest to set it halfway the available range. I can't recall
how I adjusted it, but most likely I set it halfway the available range
as well.
--
Frans Veldman
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