Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:11 AM - Re: Re: SV: Brake pads (Raimo Toivio)
2. 04:27 AM - Re: Scuff sanding before top fuse goes on and other ideas (Raimo Toivio)
3. 04:40 AM - Re: Trim Damper Assembly (Raimo Toivio)
4. 06:48 AM - Re: Cleaning windshields (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
5. 10:45 AM - Re: Scuff sanding before top fuse goes on and other ideas (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
6. 02:34 PM - Fuel return line attachment point with 912UL (zwakie)
7. 04:49 PM - male threaded drill bits (Rowland Carson)
8. 05:10 PM - Re: male threaded drill bits (Graham Singleton)
9. 11:20 PM - Re: male threaded drill bits (danbish)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: SV: Brake pads |
Ron
Look at pages 8.7 - 8.8.
That was a bit different I remembered but anyway they say
"if the disc is rough, the linings must be reglazed".
The method with steps 1,2,3 and 4 I wrote was actually for new brake bads, sorry.
Raimo OH-XRT
----- Original Message -----
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 12:39 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: SV: Brake pads
>
> Hi Raimo
>
> "In the operators manual is a method how to restore them."
>
> Which page of the XS Monowheel POH has this method?
>
> Thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Scuff sanding before top fuse goes on and other ideas |
Ron,
Wau,
> *Two cameras, one in fin and one on aft ceiling mounted and wired. DVR mounted
on folding tray attached to baggage bulkhead to allow aft access
would you like to give some more information of your cameras?!!!
Raimo OH-XRT
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Trim Damper Assembly |
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerry Cole
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Trim Damper Assembly
Fred,
I have an email from Andy Draper, dated may, 2002, which could be
out of date by now. This states:
The correct force that the friction damper should resist is 5kg
+0/-1kg at 90 degrees to the long arm (the one that the servo attaches
to)
At the time I thought this was a hell of a load and I settled for
the lower end of the range.
Ahh that was Andy!
As I wrote a fish scale did the task fine.
I used 4,5 kg.
Raimo OH-XRT
All,
Before bonding on the top, I want to be certain that the Trim Damper
Assembly is properly adjusted, particularly w/ respect to the amount
of friction when it moves in the slot in TS01. As far as I can tell,
the Build Manual does not address this question, yet it would appear
to be key to having the pitch control system function properly without
burning up the pitch trim motor. I can't seem to get my mind around
the function of this seemingly elaborate confusion of spring, tube,
thru bolt, and nuts of various sizes...it's complexity suggests that,
when properly adjusted, it performs a critical function.
I reference Fig. 2, p. 19-2, and Step 4 & Fig. 6 on p. 19-4.
Can anyone please enlighten me on what proper adjustment would be?
Thanks in advance,
Fred
--
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Cleaning windshields |
In a message dated 4/21/2009 3:02:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list@matronics.com writes:
Hey guys,
We replace and repair canopies fairly regularly in our shop. In fact, I'm
doing a rear canopy replacement on an ASW-21 glider this week. We keep a
stack of Egyptian cotton hand towels in the shop for the sole purpose of
cleaning canopies. We use only water for cleaning unless there is something on
it that water won't remove. I wipe my Europa windshield and my glider
canopy off after every flight because fresh bugs are easier to remove than ones
that have been baked on after sitting in a hot hangar between flights.
Ditto the leading edges of the wings and tail surfaces. Soak one towel with
water and wipe the plexi off thoroughly, then use a dry towel to remove any
water that is left. The key with cleaning plexiglass is to always use linear
motion, up and down, when wiping them off. Do not wipe in circles! If you
do this you will create swirls and the next time you fly into the sun you
will wish you hadn't wiped it in circles. If you do get minor scratches,
though, they can be removed fairly easily.
Most, if not all small scratches can be easily removed from plexiglass
with buffing. It's basically just like paint. Generally, anything you can't
feel with your fingernail will buff out. We use a buffing rouge that is
specifically meant for plexiglass. I made a buffer specifically for buffing
canopies and plexiglass from a 4" Makita grinder which uses 6" flannel pads.
Flannel is the key here. A router speed control is necessary to slow the
buffer down a bit, but it works very well. You use this buffer end on, just
like you would buff paint, but not on the side like an orbiting or circular
buffer. Keep the buffer moving in short, side to side movements and buff at
90 degrees to the scratches. Most deeper scratches can be removed by
carefully sanding with 1500, then 2000 grit paper on a small block, then buff.
I
can usually bring a canopy back to near new condition with a quick buffing.
We get our buffs and buffing compound from these folks:
_http://www.sattexcorp.com/Index.asp_ (http://www.sattexcorp.com/Index.asp)
Hope it helps!
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
N245E - Flying
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Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Scuff sanding before top fuse goes on and other |
ideas
Hi Raimo
"> would you like to give some more
information of your cameras?!!! "
Sure
Video
system:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album287&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Cockpit camera:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album282&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Fin camera:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album283&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=1
Ron Parigoris
Message 6
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Subject: | Fuel return line attachment point with 912UL |
I will have to replace my rubber fuel lines shortly due to aging, and am planning
to install a fuel flow computer at the same time. As I posted on this list
some time ago, the LAA recently released a standard mod for installing the sender.
I have purchase a FF computer with 2 senders, but am now considering a single sender
setup to keep things simple (and therefore less prune to failure).
Some people have been telling me that there is no need for a 2nd sender because
the flow in the return line for a 912UL is very limited . My feeling tells me
that this flow does show variation with RPM, so with the standard way the fuel
flow reading using a single sender will have some inaccuracy.
If can do, I would very much like to eliminate this inaccuracy though. My brother
Hans and Graham S. talked about this subject last night. Today my brother sent
me attached schema of a setup that fixes the inaccuracy problem, and at the
same time seems to make sure that fuel pressure at the carbs is guaranteed.
Before proceeding following this thought I would like to get as much input as possible
on the idea to find out if there are any flaws that we did not see.
Would you please review this schema, and share your thoughts with me?
Much appreciated.
Marcel
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Attachments:
http://www.europaowners.org//zfiles/fuel-feed_with_single_flowscan_637.gif
Message 7
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Subject: | male threaded drill bits |
It's probably waaaay too late to catch anyone from UK online who
might be going to Sun'n'Fun, but I'll try anyway.
If any UK-based person at Sun'n'Fun sees for sale short drill bits
(about half-inch working length) with quarter-28 male threaded shanks
for use in angle drives, please pick up a handful (one of each size)
for me & I'll pay whatever it costs when you get them back to UK
(I'll travel to collect).
I got a selection wih my tight-fit drill kit, but some are now
getting a bit worn (glass is tough to drill) and are impossible to
sharpen in a normal drill sharpening jig. I'm looking for as wide a
selection of sizes as are available. Aircraft Spruce has them at $2 -
$3 each. If you find them at those prices (or better), I'll have 2
(or even 3) of each available size if your pockets will hold them.
Put up a reply here if you're able to help - I don't want 10 people
all fetching drills - although I suppose I could sell any surplus to
the RV crowd :-)
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson http://home.clara.net/rowil/
| <rowil@clara.net> ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: male threaded drill bits |
Rowland Carson wrote:
> impossible to sharpen in a normal drill sharpening jig. I'm looking
> for as wide a selection of sizes as are available. Aircraft Spruce has
> them at $2 - $3 each. If you find them at those prices (or better),
> I'll have 2 (or even 3) of each available size if your pockets will
> hold them.
> Rowland
Rowland
you could make an extension piece (say 3/8 D) with a tapped hole that
would fit in a drill jig?
Graham
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: male threaded drill bits |
I got mine at Amazon.com, common sizes in a set for US$17
http://www.amazon.com/TightFit-Drill-Bit-Set-Combo/dp/B0002RV3WU/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b
Dan
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
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