Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:12 AM - Re: ROTAX 5 Year Rubber Replacement (Carl Pattinson)
2. 12:54 AM - Re: ROTAX 5 Year Rubber Replacement (Pete Lawless)
3. 01:55 AM - Re: ROTAX 5 Year Rubber Replacement (bmoorhouse)
4. 06:55 AM - Re: Windshield care (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
5. 08:13 AM - Re: ROTAX 5 Year Rubber Replacement (Lisbet og Gert Dalgaard)
6. 11:48 AM - Re: Re: Windshield care (Greg Fuchs)
7. 12:33 PM - Re: Windshield care (rampil)
8. 04:13 PM - Re: Re: Windshield care (Greg Fuchs)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: ROTAX 5 Year Rubber Replacement |
Personally I wouldnt worry too much about "genuine" Rotax spares. Im pretty
sure the heater/ coolant hoses are generic hoses available from any motor
factoring company. Just make sure you get exactly the right size - the top
ones are a different diameter to the bottom ones. Some of the radiator hoses
are Europa specific so those have to come from Europa (at least the ones
with a bend in them)..
Oil hose again available from motor factors.
You can get the carb diaphrams from here and they are genuine Bing
replacements (if you measure the diameter of the original diaphrams and call
them they will tell you the correct size - I think from memory it is the
smaller diameter but you will need to check).
http://www.motobins.co.uk/displayfinal.php?function=show&subs=084&title=DIAPHRAGMS+%26+GASKETS
The only bits you will have to get from Rotax are the rubber carb mounting
flanges. I think these are slightly cheaper here (or at least they were).-
http://www.aerosportuk.com/acatalog/Aerosport_Shop_Carburettor_Flange_39.html
Your main expense and bother is replacing all the fuel hoses which have to
be replaced every 5 years also - I think that is a PFA requirement but dont
quote me on that one. I found that Europa were as cheap as anybody for this
so didnt bother looking elsewhere.
To be fair to Skydrive I dont think they are ripping anybody off - its just
the price Rotax choose to charge and as they have a monopoly on parts they
do (charge!). It doesent seem to matter where in the world you get your
Rotax spares, they are the same cost everywhere. Its the price you pay for
the paperwork that goes with genuine aircraft parts.
Hope that helps.
----- Original Message -----
From: "bmoorhouse" <barrymoorhouse@btinternet.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 4:26 PM
Subject: Europa-List: ROTAX 5 Year Rubber Replacement
>
> <barrymoorhouse@btinternet.com>
>
> I apologise in advance if this is incorrect but this a repeat of a post I
> made in the Rotax Engine List which may be answered by someone with a
> Europa in the UK.
>
>
> My ROTAX 914 is due (well actually overdue) for the mandatory 5 year
> replacement of rubber hoses, carburettor rubber parts etc. and I have a
> jaw dropping kit price from the UK Rotax distributor of 661.25 for the
> parts :x
>
> This seems ludicrously expensive. Some of the parts maybe Rotax specific
> (e.g. the carb mounting rubbers ?) but many of them are "off the shelf"
> from other suppliers - e,g the Bing carburettor diaphragms, standard 12mm
> vacuum oil hose etc. and a rough total cost for buying these would be less
> than half the "official" Rotax spares.
>
> Now as far as the LAA are concerned is it OK to use these totally
> compatible and standard parts or would they be regarded as "modifications"
> as they are not "true" Rotax spares.
>
> --------
> _______________
> Barry Moorhouse
> G-JHYS Trigear XS
> Rotax 914 UL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=241921#241921
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | ROTAX 5 Year Rubber Replacement |
Hi Gert
Do you have a contact for Stefan and the silicon hoses?
Thanks
Pete
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: ROTAX 5 Year Rubber Replacement |
carl(at)flyers.freeserve. wrote:
>
> To be fair to Skydrive I dont think they are ripping anybody off - its just
> the price Rotax choose to charge and as they have a monopoly on parts they
> do (charge!). It doesent seem to matter where in the world you get your
> Rotax spares, they are the same cost everywhere. Its the price you pay for
> the paperwork that goes with genuine aircraft parts.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> ---
Carl, Yes that was really helpful, exactly what I wanted many thanks - I will check
out the links you provided.
I am not knocking Skydrive as I know that it is Rotax themselves who, in effect,
control the spares prices- I checked with a couple of overseas Rotax distributors
and the prices are much the same.
I am still recovering from seeing 662 for a few rubber hoses and a handful of other
bits. That would keep me in fuel for a whole year's flying.
--------
_______________
Barry Moorhouse
G-JHYS Trigear XS
Rotax 914 UL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242035#242035
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield care |
In a message dated 4/30/2009 3:03:16 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list@matronics.com writes:
A key notion, not mentioned previously is that when cleaning the plexi,
first use copious water spray, then wipe with cotton with only LINEAR
strokes.
Hi Ira,
Read my post regarding how we clean canopies from last week and you'll see
that I recommended exactly what you say here regarding cotton cloths, water
and linear strokes on plexi. In certain situations you can use denatured
alcohol to get rid of really bad gunk on plexi, but use it sparingly. As I
mentioned last week, we use Egyptian terrycloth hand towels for wiping
plexi clean with water and only water. I prefer a soaked towel, followed by a
dry towel, as opposed to using a spray bottle and a dry towel. I suppose
which method you use depends on whether or not you have running water at the
hangar.
A word of caution regarding the use of Pledge, certain waxes and other
similar products. It would probably be a good idea to test any product,
Pledge, wax, etc, you want to try on your windshield on a scrap piece of plexi
first. I've heard several tales of canopies becoming frosted after they
reacted badly with something in certain furniture polishes like Pledge. There's
no coming back once your glass is frosted. There's really no need to take
a chance on furniture polishing products frosting your glass. Buffing plexi
is really easy and if you learn to do it you can keep your glass looking
brand new for years.
FWIW, We've used the micromesh before. It doesn't seem to work any better
than 1500 and 2000 Klingspor sand paper, followed by a good buffing, but it
does cost more.
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
N245E - Flying on the rare occasion the weather is decent.
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: ROTAX 5 Year Rubber Replacement |
Yep!
Contact Stefan Ingemarsson at ingemarsson.s@telia.com
He have had Trelleborg make a very nice hoce-kit for the 912/914.
Regards Gert
Den 30/04/2009 kl. 09.51 skrev Pete Lawless:
> Hi Gert
>
> Do you have a contact for Stefan and the silicon hoses?
>
> Thanks
>
> Pete
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield care |
John-
This is not meant to be snippy, it is just meant to point out the obvious.
13 years of applying pledge on a Europa with no problems, and many many
motorcylists using pledge doesn't amount to dirt.
I don't know what other proof is needed, maybe after 100 years of
applications, with no problems?
I hate to back up just one product, but I think it is necessary to
specialize, in order to keep our canopies safe. There might be other
furniture polishes that do cause a problem, for sure, but
a lot of good information about 1 product means more to me than no bad
information.
Forgive me for saying this, but "certain polishes like Pledge" doesn't
negatively support pledge, in my book. I will personally not hesitate to use
It, until there is significant proof against the actual product, (ie. a few
people saying "I knew of a guy who actually used pledge, that developed fog
on the windshield after 14 years of useage, etc).
I just want to get to the bottom of the truth here, but any negative factual
evidence will have to point to 1 specific product to be of worth, in my
book.
Thanks for those with the info on the linear wiping patterns to use on the
plex, and also for the info on the Micromesh. Now that sounds like a
statement taken from experience to me. Its that type of information that
could be deemed useful, IM(very)HO.
That said, of course you are most correct: it is ALWAYS good to be careful,
and apply inconspicuously first, (lots of) good evidence or not. I suppose
that includes the water that we wash with.
Regards,
Greg
In a message dated 4/30/2009 3:03:16 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list@matronics.com writes:
A key notion, not mentioned previously is that when cleaning the plexi,
first use copious water spray, then wipe with cotton with only LINEAR
strokes.
Hi Ira,
Read my post regarding how we clean canopies from last week and you'll see
that I recommended exactly what you say here regarding cotton cloths, water
and linear strokes on plexi. In certain situations you can use denatured
alcohol to get rid of really bad gunk on plexi, but use it sparingly. As I
mentioned last week, we use Egyptian terrycloth hand towels for wiping plexi
clean with water and only water. I prefer a soaked towel, followed by a dry
towel, as opposed to using a spray bottle and a dry towel. I suppose which
method you use depends on whether or not you have running water at the
hangar.
A word of caution regarding the use of Pledge, certain waxes and other
similar products. It would probably be a good idea to test any product,
Pledge, wax, etc, you want to try on your windshield on a scrap piece of
plexi first. I've heard several tales of canopies becoming frosted after
they reacted badly with something in certain furniture polishes like Pledge.
There's no coming back once your glass is frosted. There's really no need
to take a chance on furniture polishing products frosting your glass.
Buffing plexi is really easy and if you learn to do it you can keep your
glass looking brand new for years.
FWIW, We've used the micromesh before. It doesn't seem to work any better
than 1500 and 2000 Klingspor sand paper, followed by a good buffing, but it
does cost more.
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
N245E - Flying on the rare occasion the weather is decent.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield care |
Interesting coincidence that after posting yesterday about plexi,
what should appear in my mailbox but the new SportAviation from
EAA with an article on care of windshields!
It seems to echo what John and I said about Pledge, etc.
Clean cotton is hard to come by at my hangar so I have been using
some Dupont Sontara wipe cloths.
You mileage may vary
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242144#242144
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield care |
Ira,
I just split the plastic to take a look.
(For those that haven't looked)
The article is "Look, But Don't Touch" (Author: Tim Kern) in the May 2009
edition.
Most of the article deals with washing the windows, while not leaving
scratches, and using polishing compounds to remove them.
It also discusses using horizontal and vertical movements when wiping (but a
professional buffer is okay?).
Anyway, None of the main article relates to our discussion on using Pledge
as a protecting compound.......... however:
There is a "Do's and Don'ts" section in which it IS mentioned.
The quote is (under the Don't part):
"Use things like Ammonia, Windex, Pledge- things that are made for glass
aren't necessarily made for plastic, and usually don't work well"
>From my perspextive (worth a little laugh?), it seems that the author might
just be trying to come up with randomly selected brand names that are used
with things other than Plexi, to qualify his general statement.
Though I would never use ammonia or Windex without clearing them by looking
for a history of others using it, there is in fact, a history with Pledge,
and a good one as far as I know.
So the question remains, was the author specifically pointing a finger at
Pledge, or was he lumping it in with a bunch of other items, because he was
just trying to think of something not specifically designed for Plexiglas?
Good eye Ira, on seeing this article. It may provide a valid data point, if
we can find out a better explanation about what the author was thinking when
he wrote it.
I have sent off an email to the Author in an attempt to find out.
Regards,
Greg Fuchs A050
Where do you get the Dupont Sontara wipe cloths, BTW? Can they be obtained
at an automotive store?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rampil
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 12:32 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Windshield care
Interesting coincidence that after posting yesterday about plexi,
what should appear in my mailbox but the new SportAviation from
EAA with an article on care of windshields!
It seems to echo what John and I said about Pledge, etc.
Clean cotton is hard to come by at my hangar so I have been using
some Dupont Sontara wipe cloths.
You mileage may vary
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
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