Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:15 AM - Re: 914 Fuel Injected Update & Opinion (Frans Veldman)
2. 03:31 AM - A good fly in, TEXEL W/E of 12th September (James, Clive R)
3. 12:30 PM - Tri-gear wheel fairing (Frans Veldman)
4. 01:08 PM - Re: Tri-gear wheel fairing (steve v)
5. 01:42 PM - Re: Tri-gear wheel fairing (ALAN YERLY)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: 914 Fuel Injected Update & Opinion |
craig bastin wrote:
> Frans, I am curious to know your reasoning with regard to not being able to
> "run a tank dry"
> before switching to reserve.
> virtually all EFI systems these
> days that use electric
> injectors dont need bleeding,
Good to hear this.
I'm really not into modern injector stuff, I just assumed that high
pressure injection stuff doesn't like air in the system. Apparently, I'm
not the only one concerned about this, as Bud also wrote: "Your concern
was the first thing I worked on with Jason."
It proves my point that the website lacks some information.
> Diesel engines on the other hand are a different story, run out of fuel and
> in most cases you HAVE to bleed
> and re-prime the whole system.
I have experience with a Diesel aircraft, so this fueled my concern. ;-)
--
Frans Veldman
Message 2
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Subject: | A good fly in, TEXEL W/E of 12th September |
The Europa club of the Netherlands are holding their fly in with several
other organisations at Texel.
The NVAV are suggesting a Dutch Oshkosh !
http://www.flyin.nl/
Good one for the diary if the weather is OK.
They confirm on the website that below 1200 feet and out on controlled
zones modes S isn't needed and ELT wise we have to meet our home
countries rules. Nada!
Only a few folk booked in at the moment so there maybe hotel rooms
available.
Just going to look myself right now.
Apologies if you guys have this pencilled in already and I'm just a bit
slow....
Regards, Clive
Message 3
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Subject: | Tri-gear wheel fairing |
Hi all,
While working today on the nose wheel fairing, I noticed that the top of
the front halve is highly asymmetrical.
Now, having gone through all sorts of puzzles with it, it looks like it
is not my fault.
The starboard side next to the hole of the wheel shaft is noticably
lower than the port side. If I wouldn ignore the scribings on the top,
and redrill the hole on the top centered around the highest point, the
hole would be no longer in the middle, offset to the port side. If I
flex the front halve so that it appears to be right, the bottom is
slanted and doesn't align with the wheel hole on the rear halve anymore.
It drives me nuts.
As these fairings are coming from a mold, I suspect that all the nose
wheel fairings are asymmetrical. if this is true, other builders should
have experienced the same.
Has anyone found an easy fix for this?
Or, do I just have a bad individual fairing? In that case I would be
better off to swap it.
Can anyone show me a picture of their nose wheel fairing, taken right
from the centerline?
--
Frans Veldman
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Tri-gear wheel fairing |
Hi Frans,
Mine was exactly as you describe, i just did my best with it.
its difficult to notice when its all together and painted,
i'll see if i can get a picture uploaded,
Steve.
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Tri-gear wheel fairing |
Frans,
Yes it is wonky, and it is not your fault. I've done probably 5 sets
and helped three or four customer and they are all the same. Bad plug
made from someone elses' bad mould? (It appears subcontractors copy
parts from other manufacturers and pass them off. My assumption is
based on the fact that one time I purchased a similar nose pant from
another manufacturer that was exactly the same as the original moulder
who used to make them for Europa. Somebody copied somebody.)
I have made a plug and mould for my custom fairings because I felt
filling was too cumbersome. Really it is more expensive, and time
consuming for me to make the mould from my plug. But that is my
problem. Getting a plug perfect is a pain isn't it.
What I normally do is put the two halves together and heat to get the
shape close. I then cut the pant just above the curve on the left side
bottom if the bottom looks too stupidly sloped. Cut about two to four
inches back on the bottom side. You need to reinforce that area anyway.
Spring it to where you want it. Usually lean it to the side about 1/4
inch. I use heat to shape and then super glue and a couple of sticks to
hold the shape I want, then add back three layers on the inside. Fill
the outside gap and cover with a single layer. Put the two haves
together, sand and fill.
I promise to send my squared up pant to Roger to fix the factory
subcontractors mould. That is when I get it straight. I'm on version
two.
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: Frans Veldman<mailto:frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 3:26 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Tri-gear wheel fairing
<frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl<mailto:frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>>
Hi all,
While working today on the nose wheel fairing, I noticed that the top
of
the front halve is highly asymmetrical.
Now, having gone through all sorts of puzzles with it, it looks like
it
is not my fault.
The starboard side next to the hole of the wheel shaft is noticably
lower than the port side. If I wouldn ignore the scribings on the top,
and redrill the hole on the top centered around the highest point, the
hole would be no longer in the middle, offset to the port side. If I
flex the front halve so that it appears to be right, the bottom is
slanted and doesn't align with the wheel hole on the rear halve
anymore.
It drives me nuts.
As these fairings are coming from a mold, I suspect that all the nose
wheel fairings are asymmetrical. if this is true, other builders
should
have experienced the same.
Has anyone found an easy fix for this?
Or, do I just have a bad individual fairing? In that case I would be
better off to swap it.
Can anyone show me a picture of their nose wheel fairing, taken right
from the centerline?
--
Frans Veldman
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avigator?Europa-List>
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