Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:22 AM - Re: Rotax tacho (Roger Anderson)
2. 02:35 AM - Flyer taildragger project (Miles McCallum)
3. 02:52 AM - Re: oil leak (Paul McAllister)
4. 03:41 AM - Fw: Wattisham 70th Anniversary Air Display 11 July 09 (Rowland Carson)
5. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: oil leak (Cori Hayth)
6. 09:23 AM - oil leaks (europa@pstewart.f2s.com)
7. 10:37 AM - Re: Re: oil leak ()
8. 02:27 PM - Re: Oil cooler lowering. (ALAN YERLY)
Message 1
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Paul,
Rotax produce a guide to tacho problems which is available on line.
One of the solutions suggested is to solder a 100 or 200 ohm resistor across
the trigger coil terminals.
Fitting a 100 ohm resistor has proved to be effective in stopping
fluctuations above 5200 rpm for me.
Roger Anderson G-BXTD
----- Original Message -----
From: <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 9:46 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Rotax tacho
>
>
> Some time ago I posted a query about the nonsense readings of our Rotax
> tacho.
> Have now got the TCU rpm output to compare. When idle (TCU about 1500rpm)
> rotax
> tacho not too far off (about 1700). When engine running at 2500 according
> to the
> TCU Rotax tach reads >4500! Any thoughts as to if this suggests a duff
> tach or
> a duff signal from the coils?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
> G-GIDY
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Flyer taildragger project |
=======AVGMAIL-70452590=======--
Message 3
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Hi Paul,
I do recall that many years ago, John Hurst had a similar problem and he
removed the check valve to inspect and clean it. Unfortunately when he re
assembled everything he put the check valve in back to front and the turbo
was instantly destroyed at engine start up.
I guess the moral of the story is that you need to be careful when playing
around with this area.
Cheers, Paul
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fwd: Wattisham 70th Anniversary Air Display 11 July 09 |
Following forwarded was sent to one of my almost-extinct Europa Club
e-mail accounts.
>From: DRSPJH@aol.com
>Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 05:56:58 EDT
>Subject: Wattisham 70th Anniversary Air Display 11 July 09
>
>Hi guys,
>
>I realize the clash with legends but do you have anyone and anything
>that would wish to display at Wattisham Flying Station (ex RAF now
>AAC) the home of the AH64 Apache's AAC for our 70th anniversary air
>display? Zero budget, but fuel AVGAS/AVTUR available for zilch if
>you display.....this will be the first large display at Wattisham
>since 1995 and a good one to be seen at! The event is not open to
>the public but approx 6,000 invited guests, Vets etc are invited
>along with the BBC and ITV etc.
>
>If you can help out, please contact the Airfield Manager asap, Andy
>Warburton at the contact address below, all the very best
>
>Duncan Skeels
>
>
>Contact:
>
>Mr Andy Warburton at e-mail:
><mailto:andrew.warburton848@mod.uk>andrew.warburton848@mod.uk
Anyone care to participate? If so, don't contact me, go straight to
the address quoted above, please. How about a Europa formation
flypast?
I already have Wattisham in my log-book (did part of my night rating
there) but I wouldn't mind going back again if I could find an
aeroplane ...
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson LAA #16532 http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/
| 1270 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail <rowil@clara.net>
Message 5
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I, too, had a similar experience and asked about it at the Rotax course
I recently took. They said it is likely the check valve, as Eric says. I
remember they said you can take it apart and clean it, also inspect for
slight imperfections where the ball seats in it's "socket", which you
can do some lapping on to improve the seal.
Kevin
Europa XS Mono-Wheel
Inter-cooled Rotax 914
Airmaster Prop
On Mon, May 18, 2009 at 6:33 PM , Erich Trombley wrote:
> <erichdtrombley@juno.com>
>
> Paul,
>
> I had a similar experience when I first commissioned the engine.
> Sounds like the check valve on the turbo is/was stuck. The stuck
> check valve allows oil to fill up the turbo on both the intake and
> exhaust sides. Upon start up the oil on the intake side is blown into
> the air box where it then collects and drains as you have observed.
> While you can remove the check valve and clean it, more than likely it
> will re seat itself.
> Good luck,
>
> Erich Trombley
> N28ET Classic Mono 914
>
>
> we have just run the engine up (914) for the third time. After about 5
> min there
> was oil dripping from the right hand airbox drain and the air filter
> is soaked
> in oil. There is no apparent leak from anywhere else. The oil tank has
> never
> been over filled. The engine does not appear to be burning oil. It
> appears that
> it has been drawn up into the airbox from the turbo - but why the air
> filter
> soaked in oil? The first couple of engine runs (couple of months ago)
> there was
> no evidence of oil leaking anywhere. Any thoughts?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
> ____________________________________________________________
> Fast Computer Training. Click here.
>
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsC7v6Knu7eDjYzNVAlYb8GYEnlVsXxvffM7p2QMNEm4AXZJ1fJAFC/
>
>
Message 6
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Thanks to all who offered advice - if nothing else it's nice to know you're not
alone.
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
Message 7
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As Eric said a sticking check valve is more likely the problem,
Mine did the same on first startup then run fine for 120 hours,
After the winter lay off its first startup this year was very similar but with
less oil leaking, i have done another 20 hours with no more problems,
regards
Ivor
---- Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley@juno.com> wrote:
>
> Paul,
>
> I had a similar experience when I first commissioned the engine. Sounds like
the check valve on the turbo is/was stuck. The stuck check valve allows oil
to fill up the turbo on both the intake and exhaust sides. Upon start up the
oil on the intake side is blown into the air box where it then collects and drains
as you have observed. While you can remove the check valve and clean it,
more than likely it will re seat itself.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Erich Trombley
> N28ET Classic Mono 914
>
>
> we have just run the engine up (914) for the third time. After about 5 min there
> was oil dripping from the right hand airbox drain and the air filter is soaked
> in oil. There is no apparent leak from anywhere else. The oil tank has never
> been over filled. The engine does not appear to be burning oil. It appears that
> it has been drawn up into the airbox from the turbo - but why the air filter
> soaked in oil? The first couple of engine runs (couple of months ago) there was
> no evidence of oil leaking anywhere. Any thoughts?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Fast Computer Training. Click here.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsC7v6Knu7eDjYzNVAlYb8GYEnlVsXxvffM7p2QMNEm4AXZJ1fJAFC/
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler lowering. |
Gary and those lowing the oil cooler to get better cooling.
I figure 8:30 AM at your hangar and about two or three hours max. I too
have an afternoon commitment.
Keep in mind that once the job is done, the engine is not just burped,
but the plugs pulled and turn the prop / engine until the oil cooler to
oil pump line is primed and we register oil pressure. If we start the
engine with an air bubble in this feed line, I guarantee that we'll have
no oil pressure for about 10-15 seconds and probably do some wear and
even some damage. It probably won't kill the engine, but the cam shaft,
crank and valve train will show the wear and possibly shorten the time
to overhaul.
So let's not get in a hurry.
To do the job I have:
23 and 24 mm wrenches cut short enough to properly loosen the oil
fitting on the cooler.
5/16 socket and extra long extension to get down there from above.
Wrenches
Socket set
Plug socket,
Hose cutter
Dremel tool and cutoff wheel in case we can't quite get a full two
inches.
Tin snips.
Seaming pliers.
Parts needed and on hand:
I have the straight fitting HEF 3-8 oil fitting,
AN 4-24 bolts and nuts with 2 inch steel tube spacers to move the
cooler down.
I have a spare oil hose if we need to change it out.
Spare clamps for the hose.
A piece of sheet metal that will fill the void under the oil cooler to
the cowl.
Small angles to close the hole left on each side of the oil cooler when
lowered.
If you can pull the cowl off between rain showers and have plenty of
shop towels and catch basins for the oil that will surely be dripped.
If you have a little extra cowl seal that would be great, I only have a
sliver left.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Garry<mailto:garrys@tampabay.rr.com>
To: ALAN YERLY<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tri-gear wheel fairing
Hi Bud,
Yes, this Saturday will be great...........8:30 AM. I have a
commitment in the afternoon so will have to leave by 1:00. Do you think
we can finish up by then? What tools, materials, etc. will I need to
have at the hanger?
Garry
----- Original Message -----
From: ALAN YERLY<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
To: Garry<mailto:garrys@tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tri-gear wheel fairing
Gary,
It is the gear leg and leg to fuselage / pant fairing that is so
tedious on the RV. The set of transition fairings supplied by some
third party were crap, so I modified them and they were still crap. So
I made them from clay and then they fit OK. I also hated the metal
bracket alignment method Van's uses. Again, tedious. The horizontal
and vertical tail fairings were really a bad fit also. I had to do a
refill and reglass in place to get it to look OK. As far as any
manufacturers wheel pants, they go together fairly easy. It is the
mounting, reinforcing, mud flaps etc. that make my knees ache thinking
about it. When I did the RV's, I jacked the planes to get the weight
off the wheels to get a good alignment on the pants and had that to work
around, making it a bit more of a pain. But they were a nice job.
Just wish the wing wasn't on first.
Maybe I'm getting old and complaining a lot.
I have the fittings in the shop to drop your oil cooler. Next week
is bad, how about Saturday the 23rd of May? It's hot, so first thing in
the AM, about 8:30.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Garry<mailto:garrys@tampabay.rr.com>
To: ALAN YERLY<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 10:41 AM
Subject: Fw: Europa-List: Tri-gear wheel fairing
Hi Bud,
I agree with comments about the Europa nose and maingear wheel
pants. A crappy and flimsy design. But what did you mean about "doing
an RV speed kit"? I never heard of anything called a "speed kit" for an
RV. I thought my wheel pants and fairings I got from Vans were pretty
good, and went together easily. Not true for the leg to fuselage
fairings. They required alot of work.
Will be able to get together some time to drop my oil cooler?
Garry
----- Original Message -----
From: ALAN YERLY<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tri-gear wheel fairing
Frans,
Most of the time in a situation like yours, I add glass to the
front cover gap, tape it in place on the rear pant where it looks good
and fits without flexing (with release tape of course) and allow to cure
to fill the gaps. Then sand and fill.
Having made my own entire speed kit, I disagree with your point on
being a bargain. Although the nose gear pant is wonky, the gear leg
covers are finiky, try making them from scratch or even buying from a
third party. It takes me a half day per 5 day week to mold my pants,
and wing covers. Gear legs and covers take another two days. Yes they
are very nice, but then I have to make the metal parts, get the
fasteners and hardware together etc. It still takes 40 hours to do a
nice job of alignment, fillets and transitions that allow full gear leg
movement without cracking. I have about 60 hours into my set and I will
not make another. I'll buy them. The mods to make them fit nicely is
far easier. Try doing an RV speed kit sometime....Talk about
frustrating.
It is always about life being too short and time is money isn't
it.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Frans Veldman<mailto:frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tri-gear wheel fairing
<frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl<mailto:frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>>
ALAN YERLY wrote:
> Looks great, I never thought of that Frans, looks fast and
easy.
I didn't think of that as well. I was just wondering whether I
could
force the front half somewhat in the correct direction. To do
this, I
attached the starboard side of the front half fairing to the
rear half
of the fairing, to be able to bend the port side, and then
discovered
that I could get the correct shape, without any bending, but at
the cost
of creating a gap at the port seal. If you try to close this
gap, the
fairing twists and takes its odd shape again. Leave it alone,
and all is
right.
I love to think out solutions, but this one is really a
coincidence, not
the result of thinking.
Next time you prepare a speed kit, try it, and let me know if it
works
out the same for you.
I think it is a shame that it isn't covered in the manual. These
parts
are not really a bargain, I somehow expected that the manual is
adjusted
to the experiences of builders (and preferably, not only the
manual but
the parts as well).
--
Frans nbsp; Features Chat, http://www.matronnbsp; via
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