Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:21 AM - Re: Bubbling paint (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
2. 06:37 AM - Nowegian scenery from May (James, Clive R)
3. 07:26 AM - Re: Re: Bubbling paint (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
4. 08:18 AM - Re: Re: Bubbling paint (Karl Heindl)
5. 08:44 AM - Re: Nowegian scenery from May (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
6. 10:48 AM - Re: Re: Bubbling paint (Europa List)
7. 12:34 PM - Re: Aircraft Covers in U.K. (Paddy Clarke)
8. 12:51 PM - Re: Aircraft Covers in U.K. (Jeff B)
9. 01:46 PM - Re: Aircraft Covers in U.K. (nigel charles)
10. 02:45 PM - Mono Brake Bleeding (tony.bale@virgin.net)
11. 04:05 PM - Re: Mono Brake Bleeding (Karl Heindl)
12. 04:57 PM - Re: Aircraft Covers in U.K. (Tony Crowe)
13. 05:32 PM - Re: Mono Brake Bleeding (Keith Hickling)
14. 09:59 PM - Re: Mono Brake Bleeding (Robert C Harrison)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Bubbling paint |
In a message dated 7/9/2009 3:02:51 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list@matronics.com writes:
>>>>>Cars and store bought airplanes are metal, blistering is a composites
problem. If there are any fingerprints, unreacted resins, whatever, on
the surface before painting osmosis will occur. ALL paint systems are
permeable. As you say, wax is best<<<<<
Hey Graham,
Yes, a lot of them are metal, but blistering can occur on metal airplanes,
too. My father owned a Mooney back when I was a teenager. The airplane was
less than 2 years old and developed blisters on both wings. He sent it back
to the factory in Texas to have it fixed and unfortunately, it was
destroyed in a hail storm. Although that airplane sat out in the weather
constantly the blistering probably had little to do with rain and everything to
do
with paint preparation. Gel coat is bad about blistering on boats that are
in the water constantly. I've owned a couple of sail boats that were docked
permanently in water and both developed blisters on the hull below the
waterline after a while in the water.
>>>>>I always wanted to use a polish for extra protection=2C but I am
afraid tha
t it would be very difficult to do any future touchups. My experience with
furniture lacquers is=2C that it is very difficult to re-finish a tabletop
where any polish was used containing wax or silicone=2C even when it is str
ipped down to the bare wood.<<<<<<
Hey Karl,
The one thing you want to avoid at all costs is any finish enhancer that
contains silicone. That goes for DOT 5 brake fluid, too. Silicone is
extremely hard to get off once it's on the finish. Even sanding thoroughly won't
get it all off. There are silicone removers available. Most major paint
manufacturers make them in one form or another. We've tried a variety of them
with mixed results. Repeated wiping with acetone in between sanding seems to
work best, but we still get paint rejection from time to time. It's a real
bitch sometimes and requires several cycles of painting and sanding to get
the paint to stick if silicone is present. We've never had problems with
bubbling or paint rejection after we got the paint or gel coat to stick,
though.
>>>>>>Your experience seems to indicate that this is not a problem with
glider an
d Europa finishes. Can you confirm that and let us know what you use to pre
pare the surface for re-painting ? I never used carnuba wax. Is it availabl
e in car shops=2C and do I need a powered polisher for application ? Which
polishes are to be avoided ?<<<<<<
Carnuba wax is a high quality car wax and it seems to produce the best
results. We use it on both urethane and gel coat finishes. Wx Block is also
good, but it's pricey. Some folks prefer wax, others like Wx Block.
Personally, I like wax better because it shines better. You can usually find a
good
Carnuba wax at any decent auto parts store. Expect to pay around $10-$12 a
tin for it. We use the paste type Carnuba. Carnuba also will wipe off with
acetone and/or sanding.
We tell folks to avoid anything with silicone, sillica or similar
ingredients, though. Use of such products will be troublesome later on if you
need
to do a repair. As I previously mentioned this is why we do not recommend
furniture polishes for canopies, but rather plexiglass wax. Canopy rails are
usually the first place paint or gel coat will chip because they flex and
there are different expansion and contraction rates for the fiberglass rail
and the plexiglass canopy. This usually causes a crack to form at the edge
where the two meet. Chips usually follow. Silicone products, even though
they are slippery, also seem to tend to hold a slight electric charge which
tends to cause dust to stick to the surface. We saw that one play out a
couple of years ago at a glider meet out in Uvalde, TX. There was one guy in
the field of competitors who wiped his whole glider down every day with
furniture polish. Uvalde is desert conditions and there is a lot of dust. By
the end of the meet his glider was a dust magnet. No one else at the meet was
having the problem.
The wax is applied by hand, but you don't necessarily have to use a buffer
once it's ready to wipe out, but it does help melt the wax and gain a
better application and a much better shine. I would not use an orbiting type
buffer, though. Those type buffers will create swirls in your paint. We build
our own buffers out of a variable speed 7" die grinder. We use 9" flannel
buffing pads stacked up about 5" thick. You can get "threaded collars" to
fit the arbor of the grinder at virtually any hardware store to lengthen the
grinder arbor shaft by about 3". First, put on a big fender washer, then
the collar. Then, we add about 5" thick of 9" flannel buffing pads to the
shaft. We really pack the pads on the shaft and sometimes it involves using a
hammer to beat them onto the shaft so they are good and tight. Then,
another big fender washer and a bolt that mates to the other end of the threaded
collar. Buffing is done end on. This way it does not create swirls, only
shine.
You have to pay particular attention when you are buffing control surfaces
and near leading and trailing edges. It's best to buff those parallel to
the wing or control surface for safety. If you buff 90 degrees to the control
surface or wing edge and aren't very careful it's easy to catch on the
edge of a wing or control surface like an aileron or elevator if you don't
pay attention to the direction of rotation and you can damage the surface. I
also "bump" the trigger repeatedly so that the buffer doesn't get going too
fast when I'm near the edge. Some grinders spin too fast for buffing, so we
use a router speed control to provide better control the RPM.
When buffing near the edge make sure the direction of rotation is outward
from the surface's edge. If the rotation is inward toward the edge you
risk the buffer grabbing. I've twice seen ailerons literally torn off by folks
who weren't paying attention. You don't have to put much pressure on the
buffer, either. Usually, it's own weight is enough to do the job. It will
give your forearms a good workout, though. I can send you some pictures of the
buffers we use if you'd like.
Hope it helps!
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
N245E - Flying
**************Dell Studio XPS Desktop: Save up to $400 - Limited Time Offer
p:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2D3)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Nowegian scenery from May |
I delivered a plane to Norway for a friend in April. I went the long
way round but by the last leg (Sweden Save-Stavanger) got brave enough
to take a short cut across the South of the South of Norway. I regretted
it at the time and the steer about the engine out options have now put a
return trip to Norway bottom of my list. After we landed at Stavanger I
was pleased with my decision to go direct rather than follow any more
coast. The options at times don't actually bear thinking about. The
survival suit is the way to go, should be even when channel crossing but
I suppose you have to do the numbers in your own head to decide.
If I lived and flew in Norway I would need a BRS, same thought as when
in parts of Spain.
Has to be done once though.......
Regards, Clive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Bubbling paint |
John-
Could you bring some of this stuff, such as your home-made buffer, to Rough
River and demo it?=C2- I think we could all learn a few things.
Jim Puglise
----- Original Message -----
From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 9, 2009 9:15:21 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Bubbling paint
In a message dated 7/9/2009 3:02:51 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, europa-list
@matronics.com writes:
>>>>>Cars and store bought airplanes are metal, blistering is a composites
problem. If there are any fingerprints, unreacted resins, whatever, on
the surface before painting osmosis will occur. ALL paint systems are
permeable. As you say, wax is best<<<<<
Hey Graham,
Yes, a lot of them are metal, but blistering can occur on metal airplanes,
too. My father owned a Mooney back when I was a teenager. The airplane was
less than 2 years old and developed blisters on both wings. He sent it back
to the factory in Texas to have it fixed=C2-and unfortunately, it was de
stroyed in a hail storm. Although that airplane sat out in the weather cons
tantly the blistering probably had little to do with rain and everything to
do with paint preparation. Gel coat is bad about blistering on boats that
are in the water constantly. I've owned a couple of sail boats that were do
cked permanently in water and both developed blisters on the hull below the
waterline=C2-after a while in the water.
>>>>>I always wanted to use a polish for extra protection=2C but I am afr
aid tha
t it would be very difficult to do any future touchups. My experience with
furniture lacquers is=2C that it is very difficult to re-finish a tableto
p
where any polish was used containing wax or silicone=2C even when it is s
tr
ipped down to the bare wood.<<<<<<
Hey Karl,
The one thing you want to avoid at all costs is any finish enhancer that co
ntains silicone. That goes for DOT 5 brake fluid, too.=C2-Silicone is ext
remely hard to get off once it's on the finish. Even sanding thoroughly won
't get it all off. There are silicone removers available. Most major paint
manufacturers make them in one form or another. We've tried a variety of=C2
-them with mixed results. Repeated wiping with acetone in between sanding
seems to work best, but we still get paint rejection from time to time. It
's a real bitch sometimes and requires several cycles of painting and sandi
ng to get=C2-the paint=C2-to stick if silicone is present. We've never
had problems with bubbling or paint rejection=C2-after we got the paint o
r gel coat=C2-to stick, though.
>>>>>>Your experience seems to indicate that this is not a problem with gli
der an
d Europa finishes. Can you confirm that and let us know what you use to pre
pare the surface for re-painting ? I never used carnuba wax. Is it availabl
e in car shops=2C and do I need a powered polisher for application ? Whic
h
polishes are to be avoided ?<<<<<<
Carnuba wax is a high quality car wax and it seems to produce the best resu
lts. We use it on both urethane and=C2-gel coat finishes.=C2-Wx Block i
s also good, but it's pricey. Some folks prefer wax, others like Wx Block.
Personally, I like wax better because it shines better.=C2-You can usuall
y find a good=C2-Carnuba wax=C2-at any decent auto parts store. Expect
to pay around $10-$12 a tin for it. We use the paste type Carnuba. Carnuba
also will wipe off with acetone and/or sanding.=C2-
We tell folks to avoid anything with silicone, sillica or similar ingredien
ts, though. Use of such products will be troublesome later on if you need t
o do a repair. As I previously mentioned this is why we do not recommend fu
rniture polishes for canopies, but rather plexiglass wax. Canopy rails are
usually the first place paint or gel coat will chip because they flex and t
here are different expansion and contraction rates for the fiberglass rail
and the plexiglass canopy. This usually causes a crack to form at the edge
where the two meet. Chips usually follow.=C2-=C2-Silicone products, eve
n though they are slippery, also seem to=C2-tend to hold a slight electri
c charge which tends to cause dust to stick to the surface. We saw that one
play out a couple of years ago at a glider meet out=C2-in Uvalde, TX. Th
ere was one guy in the field of competitors=C2-who wiped his whole glider
down every day with furniture polish. Uvalde is desert conditions and ther
e is a lot of dust.=C2-By the end of the meet his glider was a dust magne
t. No one else at the meet was having the problem.
The wax is applied by hand, but you don't necessarily have to use a buffer
once it's ready to wipe out, but it does help melt the wax and gain a bette
r application and a much better shine. I would not use an orbiting type buf
fer, though. Those type=C2-buffers will=C2-create swirls in your paint.
We build our own buffers out of a variable speed=C2-7" die grinder. We
=C2-use 9" flannel buffing pads stacked up about 5" thick. You can get "t
hreaded collars" to fit the arbor of the grinder=C2-at virtually any hard
ware store to lengthen the grinder arbor=C2-shaft by about 3". First, put
on a big fender washer, then the collar.=C2-Then, we add about 5" thick
of 9" flannel buffing=C2-pads to the shaft.=C2-We really pack the pads
on the shaft and sometimes it=C2-involves using a hammer to beat them ont
o the shaft so they are good and=C2-tight.=C2-Then,=C2-another big fe
nder washer and a bolt that mates to the other end of the threaded collar.
Buffing is done end on. This way it does not create swirls, only shine.
You have to pay particular attention when you are buffing control surfaces
and near leading and trailing edges. It's best to buff those parallel to th
e wing or control surface for safety. If you buff=C2-90 degrees to the co
ntrol surface=C2-or wing edge and=C2-aren't very careful it's easy to c
atch on the edge of a wing or=C2-control surface like an aileron or eleva
tor if you don't pay attention to the direction of rotation=C2-and you ca
n damage the surface. I also "bump" the trigger repeatedly so that the buff
er doesn't get going too fast when I'm near the edge. Some=C2-grinders sp
in too fast for buffing, so we use a router speed control to provide better
control the=C2-RPM.
=C2-When buffing near the edge make sure the direction of rotation is out
ward=C2-from the surface's edge. If the rotation is inward toward the edg
e you risk the buffer grabbing. I've twice seen ailerons literally=C2-tor
n off by folks who weren't paying attention. You don't have to put much pre
ssure on the buffer, either. Usually, it's own weight is enough to do the j
ob. It will give your forearms a good workout, though. I can send you some
pictures of the buffers we use if you'd like.
Hope it helps!
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
N245E=C2-- Flying
======
==
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Bubbling paint |
Hi John=2C
Thank you for the very comprehensive reply. I can't quite picture your home
made polisher.
I and I am sure others would be very interested in a picture if that is pos
sible. I have a random orbit variable speed 7" Bosch sanding tool=2C but wi
th afoam pad it can also be adapted for polishing.
Karl
From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Bubbling paint
In a message dated 7/9/2009 3:02:51 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time=2C europa-li
st@matronics.com writes:
>>>>>Cars and store bought airplanes are metal=2C blistering is a composite
s
problem. If there are any fingerprints=2C unreacted resins=2C whatever=2C o
n
the surface before painting osmosis will occur. ALL paint systems are
permeable. As you say=2C wax is best<<<<<
Hey Graham=2C
Yes=2C a lot of them are metal=2C but blistering can occur on metal airplan
es=2C too. My father owned a Mooney back when I was a teenager. The airplan
e was less than 2 years old and developed blisters on both wings. He sent i
t back to the factory in Texas to have it fixed and unfortunately=2C it was
destroyed in a hail storm. Although that airplane sat out in the weather c
onstantly the blistering probably had little to do with rain and everything
to do with paint preparation. Gel coat is bad about blistering on boats th
at are in the water constantly. I've owned a couple of sail boats that were
docked permanently in water and both developed blisters on the hull below
the waterline after a while in the water.
>>>>>I always wanted to use a polish for extra protection=2C but I am afr
aid tha
t it would be very difficult to do any future touchups. My experience with
furniture lacquers is=2C that it is very difficult to re-finish a tableto
p
where any polish was used containing wax or silicone=2C even when it is s
tr
ipped down to the bare wood.<<<<<<
Hey Karl=2C
The one thing you want to avoid at all costs is any finish enhancer that co
ntains silicone. That goes for DOT 5 brake fluid=2C too. Silicone is extrem
ely hard to get off once it's on the finish. Even sanding thoroughly won't
get it all off. There are silicone removers available. Most major paint man
ufacturers make them in one form or another. We've tried a variety of them
with mixed results. Repeated wiping with acetone in between sanding seems t
o work best=2C but we still get paint rejection from time to time. It's a r
eal bitch sometimes and requires several cycles of painting and sanding to
get the paint to stick if silicone is present. We've never had problems wit
h bubbling or paint rejection after we got the paint or gel coat to stick
=2C though.
>>>>>>Your experience seems to indicate that this is not a problem with gli
der an
d Europa finishes. Can you confirm that and let us know what you use to pre
pare the surface for re-painting ? I never used carnuba wax. Is it availabl
e in car shops=2C and do I need a powered polisher for application ? Whic
h
polishes are to be avoided ?<<<<<<
Carnuba wax is a high quality car wax and it seems to produce the best resu
lts. We use it on both urethane and gel coat finishes. Wx Block is also goo
d=2C but it's pricey. Some folks prefer wax=2C others like Wx Block. Person
ally=2C I like wax better because it shines better. You can usually find a
good Carnuba wax at any decent auto parts store. Expect to pay around $10-$
12 a tin for it. We use the paste type Carnuba. Carnuba also will wipe off
with acetone and/or sanding.
We tell folks to avoid anything with silicone=2C sillica or similar ingredi
ents=2C though. Use of such products will be troublesome later on if you ne
ed to do a repair. As I previously mentioned this is why we do not recommen
d furniture polishes for canopies=2C but rather plexiglass wax. Canopy rail
s are usually the first place paint or gel coat will chip because they flex
and there are different expansion and contraction rates for the fiberglass
rail and the plexiglass canopy. This usually causes a crack to form at the
edge where the two meet. Chips usually follow. Silicone products=2C even
though they are slippery=2C also seem to tend to hold a slight electric cha
rge which tends to cause dust to stick to the surface. We saw that one play
out a couple of years ago at a glider meet out in Uvalde=2C TX. There was
one guy in the field of competitors who wiped his whole glider down every d
ay with furniture polish. Uvalde is desert conditions and there is a lot of
dust. By the end of the meet his glider was a dust magnet. No one else at
the meet was having the problem.
The wax is applied by hand=2C but you don't necessarily have to use a buffe
r once it's ready to wipe out=2C but it does help melt the wax and gain a b
etter application and a much better shine. I would not use an orbiting type
buffer=2C though. Those type buffers will create swirls in your paint. We
build our own buffers out of a variable speed 7" die grinder. We use 9" fla
nnel buffing pads stacked up about 5" thick. You can get "threaded collars"
to fit the arbor of the grinder at virtually any hardware store to lengthe
n the grinder arbor shaft by about 3". First=2C put on a big fender washer
=2C then the collar. Then=2C we add about 5" thick of 9" flannel buffing pa
ds to the shaft. We really pack the pads on the shaft and sometimes it invo
lves using a hammer to beat them onto the shaft so they are good and tight.
Then=2C another big fender washer and a bolt that mates to the other end o
f the threaded collar. Buffing is done end on. This way it does not create
swirls=2C only shine.
You have to pay particular attention when you are buffing control surfaces
and near leading and trailing edges. It's best to buff those parallel to th
e wing or control surface for safety. If you buff 90 degrees to the control
surface or wing edge and aren't very careful it's easy to catch on the edg
e of a wing or control surface like an aileron or elevator if you don't pay
attention to the direction of rotation and you can damage the surface. I a
lso "bump" the trigger repeatedly so that the buffer doesn't get going too
fast when I'm near the edge. Some grinders spin too fast for buffing=2C so
we use a router speed control to provide better control the RPM.
When buffing near the edge make sure the direction of rotation is outward
from the surface's edge. If the rotation is inward toward the edge you risk
the buffer grabbing. I've twice seen ailerons literally torn off by folks
who weren't paying attention. You don't have to put much pressure on the bu
ffer=2C either. Usually=2C it's own weight is enough to do the job. It will
give your forearms a good workout=2C though. I can send you some pictures
of the buffers we use if you'd like.
Hope it helps!
Regards=2C
John Lawton
Whitwell=2C TN (TN89)
N245E - Flying
Dell Studio XPS Desktop: Save up to $400 - Limited Time Offer
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| Subject: | Nowegian scenery from May |
I cannot argue with Clive's comments about flying over rough terrain, but
the photo of the snow covered mountain range before approaching the open
fjords east of Stavanger brings one option to mind: There is a Europa mono
builder in Norway installing conventional taildragger undercarriage instead,
with the idea of putting skis on for winter operation. Would this be a
"first" for Europa??
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Bubbling paint |
Think of taking a buffing wheel off of a bench grinder and putting a
shaft thru it, then chucking it in a drill and you will get the idea.
You buff with what is essentially the outside surface of a cylinder, not
the area of a circle as with an orbital buffer.
Vaughn
I've seen his work and it is beautiful
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2009 11:14
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Bubbling paint
Hi John,
Thank you for the very comprehensive reply. I can't quite picture your
homemade polisher.
I and I am sure others would be very interested in a picture if that
is possible. I have a random orbit variable speed 7" Bosch sanding tool,
but with afoam pad it can also be adapted for polishing.
Karl
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 09:15:21 -0400
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Bubbling paint
To: europa-list@matronics.com
In a message dated 7/9/2009 3:02:51 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list@matronics.com writes:
>>>>>Cars and store bought airplanes are metal, blistering is a
composites
problem. If there are any fingerprints, unreacted resins, whatever,
on
the surface before painting osmosis will occur. ALL paint systems
are
permeable. As you say, wax is best<<<<<
Hey Graham,
Yes, a lot of them are metal, but blistering can occur on metal
airplanes, too. My father owned a Mooney back when I was a teenager. The
airplane was less than 2 years old and developed blisters on both wings.
He sent it back to the factory in Texas to have it fixed and
unfortunately, it was destroyed in a hail storm. Although that airplane
sat out in the weather constantly the blistering probably had little to
do with rain and everything to do with paint preparation. Gel coat is
bad about blistering on boats that are in the water constantly. I've
owned a couple of sail boats that were docked permanently in water and
both developed blisters on the hull below the waterline after a while in
the water.
>>>>>I always wanted to use a polish for extra protection=2C but I
am afraid tha
t it would be very difficult to do any future touchups. My experience
with
furniture lacquers is=2C that it is very difficult to re-finish a
tabletop
where any polish was used containing wax or silicone=2C even when it
is str
ipped down to the bare wood.<<<<<<
Hey Karl,
The one thing you want to avoid at all costs is any finish enhancer
that contains silicone. That goes for DOT 5 brake fluid, too. Silicone
is extremely hard to get off once it's on the finish. Even sanding
thoroughly won't get it all off. There are silicone removers available.
Most major paint manufacturers make them in one form or another. We've
tried a variety of them with mixed results. Repeated wiping with acetone
in between sanding seems to work best, but we still get paint rejection
from time to time. It's a real bitch sometimes and requires several
cycles of painting and sanding to get the paint to stick if silicone is
present. We've never had problems with bubbling or paint rejection after
we got the paint or gel coat to stick, though.
>>>>>>Your experience seems to indicate that this is not a problem
with glider an
d Europa finishes. Can you confirm that and let us know what you use
to pre
pare the surface for re-painting ? I never used carnuba wax. Is it
availabl
e in car shops=2C and do I need a powered polisher for application ?
Which
polishes are to be avoided ?<<<<<<
Carnuba wax is a high quality car wax and it seems to produce the best
results. We use it on both urethane and gel coat finishes. Wx Block is
also good, but it's pricey. Some folks prefer wax, others like Wx Block.
Personally, I like wax better because it shines better. You can usually
find a good Carnuba wax at any decent auto parts store. Expect to pay
around $10-$12 a tin for it. We use the paste type Carnuba. Carnuba also
will wipe off with acetone and/or sanding.
We tell folks to avoid anything with silicone, sillica or similar
ingredients, though. Use of such products will be troublesome later on
if you need to do a repair. As I previously mentioned this is why we do
not recommend furniture polishes for canopies, but rather plexiglass
wax. Canopy rails are usually the first place paint or gel coat will
chip because they flex and there are different expansion and contraction
rates for the fiberglass rail and the plexiglass canopy. This usually
causes a crack to form at the edge where the two meet. Chips usually
follow. Silicone products, even though they are slippery, also seem to
tend to hold a slight electric charge which tends to cause dust to stick
to the surface. We saw that one play out a couple of years ago at a
glider meet out in Uvalde, TX. There was one guy in the field of
competitors who wiped his whole glider down every day with furniture
polish. Uvalde is desert conditions and there is a lot of dust. By the
end of the meet his glider was a dust magnet. No one else at the meet
was having the problem.
The wax is applied by hand, but you don't necessarily have to use a
buffer once it's ready to wipe out, but it does help melt the wax and
gain a better application and a much better shine. I would not use an
orbiting type buffer, though. Those type buffers will create swirls in
your paint. We build our own buffers out of a variable speed 7" die
grinder. We use 9" flannel buffing pads stacked up about 5" thick. You
can get "threaded collars" to fit the arbor of the grinder at virtually
any hardware store to lengthen the grinder arbor shaft by about 3".
First, put on a big fender washer, then the collar. Then, we add about
5" thick of 9" flannel buffing pads to the shaft. We really pack the
pads on the shaft and sometimes it involves using a hammer to beat them
onto the shaft so they are good and tight. Then, another big fender
washer and a bolt that mates to the other end of the threaded collar.
Buffing is done end on. This way it does not create swirls, only shine.
You have to pay particular attention when you are buffing control
surfaces and near leading and trailing edges. It's best to buff those
parallel to the wing or control surface for safety. If you buff 90
degrees to the control surface or wing edge and aren't very careful it's
easy to catch on the edge of a wing or control surface like an aileron
or elevator if you don't pay attention to the direction of rotation and
you can damage the surface. I also "bump" the trigger repeatedly so that
the buffer doesn't get going too fast when I'm near the edge. Some
grinders spin too fast for buffing, so we use a router speed control to
provide better control the RPM.
When buffing near the edge make sure the direction of rotation is
outward from the surface's edge. If the rotation is inward toward the
edge you risk the buffer grabbing. I've twice seen ailerons literally
torn off by folks who weren't paying attention. You don't have to put
much pressure on the buffer, either. Usually, it's own weight is enough
to do the job. It will give your forearms a good workout, though. I can
send you some pictures of the buffers we use if you'd like.
Hope it helps!
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
N245E - Flying
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Covers in U.K. |
Hi Folks,
Many thanks to all those who replied.
Before deciding on manufacturer I have to decide on which material,
due to my use of Polyfibre products.
Is there anyone out there who used Polyfibre filler and/or primer and
then kept their aircraft outside under covers, who didn't have
bubbles appear in the paintwork?. If so, were the covers breathable
or not?.
Do people who know about Polyfibre think that there are still
potential problems in store with a finish completed 8 years ago?
Do people think you get condensation under fully waterproof covers?
Looking forward to many erudite replies,
All the best, paddy
On 8 Jul 2009, at 20:30, R Holder wrote:
>
> Paddy Clarke wrote:
>
>> Hi Folks,
>> It looks as though I'm going to have to get some winter weight
>> covers for my XS mono.
>> It seems that I have a choice between a fully waterproof felt
>> backed material that isn't breathable, and a breathable canvass
>> that is not so waterproof and deteriorates quicker.
>> The aircraft is 7 years old and was filled and primed with
>> Polyfibre products. To date, I have had absolutely no issues with
>> paint bubbling but I am concerned that keeping it outside in very
>> wet conditions under a non-breathable cover may cause problems.
>> Has anyone had any experience of this - or not as the case may be?
>> Has anyone got any firms to be recommended or to be avoided?
>> What sort of material have others settled on?
>
> Paddy i used Velas in Ongar not a million miles from Stapleford.
>
> The guy is a sail maker but has templates for lots of planes and
> his work is all over.
>
> www.velas.co.uk
>
> I am sure I could pick up and deliver for you if you wanted,
>
> Richard
> G-OWWW
>
>
Paddy Clarke
Europa G-KIMM
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Covers in U.K. |
Hi Paddy,
My personal opinion: Use only a breathable material. Waterproof
fabrics will condense moisture underneath.
Jeff - Baby Blue
Paddy Clarke wrote:
> Hi Folks,
> Many thanks to all those who replied.
> Before deciding on manufacturer I have to decide on which material, due
> to my use of Polyfibre products.
> Is there anyone out there who used Polyfibre filler and/or primer and
> then kept their aircraft outside under covers, who didn't have bubbles
> appear in the paintwork?. If so, were the covers breathable or not?.
> Do people who know about Polyfibre think that there are still potential
> problems in store with a finish completed 8 years ago?
> Do people think you get condensation under fully waterproof covers?
> Looking forward to many erudite replies,
> All the best, paddy
> On 8 Jul 2009, at 20:30, R Holder wrote:
>
>> <mailto:rholder@avnet.co.uk>>
>>
>> Paddy Clarke wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Folks,
>>> It looks as though I'm going to have to get some winter weight covers
>>> for my XS mono.
>>> It seems that I have a choice between a fully waterproof felt backed
>>> material that isn't breathable, and a breathable canvass that is not
>>> so waterproof and deteriorates quicker.
>>> The aircraft is 7 years old and was filled and primed with Polyfibre
>>> products. To date, I have had absolutely no issues with paint
>>> bubbling but I am concerned that keeping it outside in very wet
>>> conditions under a non-breathable cover may cause problems.
>>> Has anyone had any experience of this - or not as the case may be?
>>> Has anyone got any firms to be recommended or to be avoided?
>>> What sort of material have others settled on?
>>
>> Paddy i used Velas in Ongar not a million miles from Stapleford.
>>
>> The guy is a sail maker but has templates for lots of planes and his
>> work is all over.
>>
>> www.velas.co.uk
>>
>> I am sure I could pick up and deliver for you if you wanted,
>>
>> Richard
>> G-OWWW
>>
>> - The Europa-List Email Forum -
>> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> - List Contribution Web Site -
>> Thank you for your generous support!
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>
> Paddy Clarke
> Europa G-KIMM
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Aircraft Covers in U.K. |
Hi Paddy
I thought you might find the info below interesting. It comes from the
following website http://www.aircraftcovers.com/ in their faq section.
Nigel Charles
QUESTION: Is your cover waterproof?
ANSWER: You do not want a cover made from "waterproof" material like a
plastic tarp. "Waterproof" materials do not breathe and will trap
moisture and condensation underneath the surface of the cover, which
will cause damage to the glass and to the paint.
Our covers are treated for water-repellency and UV protection and are
water repellent enough to stop any leeks that may be occurring.
Furthermore, our covers are breathable. This means that water is allowed
to breathe through the cover or wick away off of the surface of the
plane. After a heavy rain, you may feel some dampness on the underside
of the cover. But this moisture will not be trapped under the cover, it
will breathe out and dry quickly.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
QUESTION: What materials do you use?
ANSWER: We us a nylon-based material called Silver Laminate that is
specially made for Bruce's Custom Covers and is pre-treated for water
repellency and UV protection, yet still breathes. It only comes in a
light-silvery grey color, which we have found to be the most reflective.
We also use a material called Sunbrella, an acrylic based material that
comes in about 40 different colors. Sunbrella is primarily used in the
marine industry for boat covers and is very color-fast, meaning it holds
its color quite well even when exposed to the sun for extended periods
of use.
Both materials are effective in protecting your plane. Sunbrella comes
in colors, is slightly bulkier, stiffer and heavier and Silver Laminate
is lighter weight, and only comes in a light, silvery grey in color.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Mono Brake Bleeding |
Dear all,
We are experiencing problems bleeding the brake system, after several
failed attempts we still have a lot of brake lever movement and not much to
show for it. (before the line was disconnected the brakes worked quite well
so suggests pad condition etc is okay)
The Hydraulic line was disconnected hence the need to bleed the system. We
have the syringe and ali cup supplied from Europa, but can't remember the
tricks to successful removal of trapped air.
Can anyone enlighten me or point me in the right direction ? Would
appreciate any assistance / comments.
Regards
Tony.
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Mono Brake Bleeding |
Tony=2C
There seem to be various techniques. The only thing that worked for me in t
he end (I have a trigear)=2C was to :
a) move the bleed nipple from the top to the bottom position.
b) then submerge the nipple in brake fluid in a container. That way no air
can enter again
from the bottom.
c) fill up the reservoir and pump the brake. keep filling and pumping unt
il no more air
bubbles are coming out. With someone's help this procedure is very ea
sy. Close the
bleed nipple. Then do the other side.
I was amazed by how much air was expelled.
I tried all the other tricks=2C like filling from the bottom up etc.=2C but
didn't have much success.
Karl
> From: tony.bale@virgin.net
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Date: Thu=2C 9 Jul 2009 17:42:11 -0400
> Subject: Europa-List: Mono Brake Bleeding
>
in.net>
>
> Dear all=2C
> We are experiencing problems bleeding the brake system=2C after several
> failed attempts we still have a lot of brake lever movement and not much
to
> show for it. (before the line was disconnected the brakes worked quite we
ll
> so suggests pad condition etc is okay)
>
> The Hydraulic line was disconnected hence the need to bleed the system. W
e
> have the syringe and ali cup supplied from Europa=2C but can't remember t
he
> tricks to successful removal of trapped air.
>
> Can anyone enlighten me or point me in the right direction ? Would
> appreciate any assistance / comments.
>
> Regards
>
> Tony.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft=AE Windows=AE and Linux web and applica
tion
> hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Aircraft Covers in U.K. |
I have one of those covers on a Beechcraft for the last 5 year I can't fault
it.
Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of nigel charles
Sent: 09 July 2009 21:43
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Aircraft Covers in U.K.
Hi Paddy
I thought you might find the info below interesting. It comes from the
following website http://www.aircraftcovers.com/ in their faq section.
Nigel Charles
QUESTION: Is your cover waterproof?
ANSWER: You do not want a cover made from "waterproof" material like a
plastic tarp. "Waterproof" materials do not breathe and will trap
moisture and condensation underneath the surface of the cover, which
will cause damage to the glass and to the paint.
Our covers are treated for water-repellency and UV protection and are
water repellent enough to stop any leeks that may be occurring.
Furthermore, our covers are breathable. This means that water is allowed
to breathe through the cover or wick away off of the surface of the
plane. After a heavy rain, you may feel some dampness on the underside
of the cover. But this moisture will not be trapped under the cover, it
will breathe out and dry quickly.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
QUESTION: What materials do you use?
ANSWER: We us a nylon-based material called Silver Laminate that is
specially made for Bruce's Custom Covers and is pre-treated for water
repellency and UV protection, yet still breathes. It only comes in a
light-silvery grey color, which we have found to be the most reflective.
We also use a material called Sunbrella, an acrylic based material that
comes in about 40 different colors. Sunbrella is primarily used in the
marine industry for boat covers and is very color-fast, meaning it holds
its color quite well even when exposed to the sun for extended periods
of use.
Both materials are effective in protecting your plane. Sunbrella comes
in colors, is slightly bulkier, stiffer and heavier and Silver Laminate
is lighter weight, and only comes in a light, silvery grey in color.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Mono Brake Bleeding |
Hi Tony,
The Europa bleeding kit is great and was the only way I managed to bleed
the brakes successfully in my mono. The problem is that the master
cylinder slopes upwards and air gate trapped at the end opposite to the
brake line connection.
Screw the alu reservoir into the filler hole on the master cylinder.
Then fill the syringe with fluid, attach a short length of plastic
tubing, and attach to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Slacken
the bleed nipple and inject the fluid. When all 10 mls are injected,
tighten the bleed nipple, refil the syringe and repeat. It takes 2 - 3
10 ml syringes to fill the system. When fluid with no air bubbles flows
into the reservoir, tighten the bleed nipple and remove some fluid from
the reservoir until it is about a third full. Then pull the brake lever
until no more air is expelled. Release the lever slowly and watch the
level of fluid in the reservior as it drops to make sure no air is
sucked into the master cylinder. Repeat until no more air is expelled
from the master cylinder. Finally pull the brake lever back just a
quarter of an inch, empty the reservoir with the syringe, and release
the brake lever, so that the fluid level drops just below the filler
hole in the master cylinder. That then lets you unscrew the reservoir
without brake fluid leaking everywhere. Replace the filler cap, check
the bleed nipple is fully tightened, and the system should be bled.
Regards,
Keith Hickling,
New Zealand.
> From: tony.bale@virgin.net
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 17:42:11 -0400
> Subject: Europa-List: Mono Brake Bleeding
>
<tony.bale@virgin.net>
>
> Dear all,
> We are experiencing problems bleeding the brake system, after
several
> failed attempts we still have a lot of brake lever movement and not
much to
> show for it. (before the line was disconnected the brakes worked
quite well
> so suggests pad condition etc is okay)
>
> The Hydraulic line was disconnected hence the need to bleed the
system. We
> have the syringe and ali cup supplied from Europa, but can't
remember the
> tricks to successful removal of trapped air.
>
> Can anyone enlighten me or point me in the right direction ? Would
> appreciate any assistance / comments.
>
> Regards
>
> Tony.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft=AE Windows=AE and Linux web and
application
> hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting
>
>
>
>
>
======================
&g======
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Mono Brake Bleeding |
Don't know about the mono but on the trike I put plenty of rag round
each master cylinder use a syringe to fill the cylinders brim full, then
replace the plugs allowing time for the excess to dribble out from the
threads then tighten up and mop up.
Get excellent brakes and no air whatever !
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tony.bale@virgin.net
Sent: 09 July 2009 22:42
Subject: Europa-List: Mono Brake Bleeding
<tony.bale@virgin.net>
Dear all,
We are experiencing problems bleeding the brake system, after several
failed attempts we still have a lot of brake lever movement and not much
to
show for it. (before the line was disconnected the brakes worked quite
well
so suggests pad condition etc is okay)
The Hydraulic line was disconnected hence the need to bleed the system.
We
have the syringe and ali cup supplied from Europa, but can't remember
the
tricks to successful removal of trapped air.
Can anyone enlighten me or point me in the right direction ? Would
appreciate any assistance / comments.
Regards
Tony.
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