Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:22 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Graham Singleton)
2. 05:11 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Jim Brown)
3. 05:43 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Karl Heindl)
4. 06:12 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Paul McAllister)
5. 11:21 AM - Tank Leak Found (JEFF ROBERTS)
6. 12:10 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Jim Brown)
7. 12:10 PM - Re: Tank Leak Found (Jeff B)
8. 12:24 PM - Re: Tank Leak Found (Jim Brown)
9. 12:56 PM - Re: Tank Leak Found (Greg Fuchs)
10. 01:10 PM - Re: Tank Leak Found (K BURNS)
11. 01:46 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
12. 02:46 PM - Re: Tank Leak Found (JEFF ROBERTS)
13. 03:13 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Robert Berube)
14. 03:43 PM - Re: Tank Leak Found (Fred Klein)
15. 04:43 PM - Re: Tank Leak Found (JEFF ROBERTS)
16. 08:05 PM - Re: Tank Leak Found (Paul McAllister)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
>
> Okay, After some closer inspection it appears the fuel may be coming
> out of the side of the tunnel area about 4 inches from the bottom of
> the tank right where I bonded a nylon tab with the old re-dux during
> the build to hold a cable. Is it possible that could have weakened the
> tank in that spot and it's taken a few years for it to come thru.
> Graham... maybe there was something in the molding of the tank like
> you said that created a spot leak.
> I will check it tomorrow with about 5 psi of air pressure and some
> soap water on the spot, but here is a question.
> If it is a spot leak and I can patch it what would be the best patch
> to use?
> Any thoughts would be appreciated. I don't want to gut her if I don't
> have to!!!! ;o((
> Jeff R.
> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and climbing slowly.
Jeff
I would start by trying a weld. Use a warm soldering iron or similar.
You need some scrap polyethylene for welding rod , not so easy unless
you have any bits you cut from the tank? Practice on a piece of scrap
first of course is a good plan.
Anyone have a disc they cut out of the top for a fuel gauge?
I don't know anything that would bond to polyethylene. Do you know of
anything Bud? Some car maintenance people used to weld damaged car
bumpers, you could ask their advice if you can find one. Not quite the
same material though.
Graham
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
Jeff
-
I repaired a small crack in the original tank in our monowheel when it deve
loped a small crack on the back side of the tank.
-
You need to make sure that the area is cleaned and sanded with 80 grit.Then
I cleaned the spot on the tank with acetone, I used pro seal and covered t
he crack (which was about 1/2 inch long) with the pro seal. Then I took a p
iece of rubber sheet about two inches in diameter- and 1/8 inches thick)s
lathered pro seal on the rubber and put over the crack. I then slathered th
e pro seal over the whole patch.
-
Again make sure the tank is cleaned with acetone befor you start.
-
Walk away let cure couple days, then put gas in tank and check for leaks..
-
Jim Brown
--- On Tue, 7/14/09, JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net> wrote:
From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel Tank Leak
Okay, After some closer inspection it appears the fuel may be coming out of
the side of the tunnel area about 4 inches from the bottom of the tank rig
ht where I bonded a nylon tab with the old re-dux during the build to hold
a cable. Is it possible that could have weakened the tank in that spot and
it's taken a few years for it to come thru.
Graham... maybe there was something in the molding of the tank like you sai
d that created a spot leak.
I will check it tomorrow with about 5 psi of air pressure and some soap wat
er on the spot, but here is a question.
If it is a spot leak and I can patch it what would be the best patch to use
?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. I don't want to gut her if I don't have
to!!!! ;o((
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and climbing slowly.
On Jul 13, 2009, at 5:52 PM, Jeff B wrote:
>
> Dude!- What a drag!- And I thought I had problems with instrumentatio
n and Auto Pilots.- WOW!- Ok, gut her and get her fixed.- You got abo
ut nine weeks...
>
> Jeff - Baby Blue
>
> JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
>> We'll after seeing my fuel run onto the floor today after I added 5 gall
ons I started to search for a leak. I'm now becoming painfully aware of the
fact that it looks like my tank has ruptured somewhere. It's looking like
around where the tank was glassed onto the cockpit module in the port rear
inside portion of the tunnel. I can't remember where the seams of the tank
are but there must be one back there. Has anyone else experienced this leak
there?
>> I remember some talk of someone making an aluminum version. Has that bee
n done anywhere that one might buy a duplicate?
>> Looks like some major surgery coming up. :o(
>> If anyone has a tank in the states I may be interested.
>> Jeff R.
>> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and now going to be down for surgery
..
>> size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?Europa-List href="http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ----------------------------------
--------------------------------------
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 3
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Jim=2C can you tell us more about this pro seal ? Who sells it=2C i.e. webs
ite info.
Thank you=2C Karl
From: acrojim7534@YAHOO.COM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel Tank Leak
Jeff
I repaired a small crack in the original tank in our monowheel when it deve
loped a small crack on the back side of the tank.
You need to make sure that the area is cleaned and sanded with 80 grit..The
n I cleaned the spot on the tank with acetone=2C I used pro seal and covere
d the crack (which was about 1/2 inch long) with the pro seal. Then I took
a piece of rubber sheet about two inches in diameter and 1/8 inches thick)
slathered pro seal on the rubber and put over the crack. I then slathered t
he pro seal over the whole patch.
Again make sure the tank is cleaned with acetone befor you start.
Walk away let cure couple days=2C then put gas in tank and check for leaks.
.
Jim Brown
--- On Tue=2C 7/14/09=2C JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm..net> wrote:
From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel Tank Leak
Okay=2C After some closer inspection it appears the fuel may be coming out
of the side of the tunnel area about 4 inches from the bottom of the tank r
ight where I bonded a nylon tab with the old re-dux during the build to hol
d a cable. Is it possible that could have weakened the tank in that spot an
d it's taken a few years for it to come thru.
Graham... maybe there was something in the molding of the tank like you sai
d that created a spot leak.
I will check it tomorrow with about 5 psi of air pressure and some soap wat
er on the spot=2C but here is a question.
If it is a spot leak and I can patch it what would be the best patch to use
?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. I don't want to gut her if I don't have
to!!!! =3Bo((
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and climbing slowly.
On Jul 13=2C 2009=2C at 5:52 PM=2C Jeff B wrote:
>
> Dude! What a drag! And I thought I had problems with instrumentation an
d Auto Pilots. WOW! Ok=2C gut her and get her fixed. You got about nine
weeks...
>
> Jeff - Baby Blue
>
> JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
>> We'll after seeing my fuel run onto the floor today after I added 5 gall
ons I started to search for a leak. I'm now becoming painfully aware of the
fact that it looks like my tank has ruptured somewhere. It's looking like
around where the tank was glassed onto the cockpit module in the port rear
inside portion of the tunnel. I can't remember where the seams of the tank
are but there must be one back there. Has anyone else experienced this leak
there?
>> I remember some talk of someone making an aluminum version. Has that bee
n done anywhere that one might buy a duplicate?
>> Looks like some major surgery coming up. :o(
>> If anyone has a tank in the states I may be interested.
>> Jeff R.
>> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and now going to be down for surgery
.
>> size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new=2Ccourier">
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?Europa-List href="http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ----------------------------------
--------------------------------------
>> Checkeailable via the Web nbsp=3B -Matt matronics.com/
contribution" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contri====
===========
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
Jeff,
If you want to take a shot at welding Harbor Freight sell 4 hot air plastic
welding tools:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber'712
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber'464
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41592
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=67102
Welding rod is available from http://www.arizonatools.com/detail/URE5003R6/
Paul
Message 5
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To All that responded... THANKS!
After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I
have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the
corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is bonded
onto the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as the non
giving glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm now in
agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be glassed in but
rather fitted in a way that allows some movement. Okay too late for me
now... It is however in an area that I can reach it to repair it either
using pro-seal or the tap plastics product.
Options:
1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the
tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not being
able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe once it
sets up thats not necessary. ???
2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg sent sounds like a
better way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me
to cut an additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that
later. BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank
after draining it so I don't blow myself up :o( trying to flame treat
the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air into
the tank and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the filler
cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial hairs are
welcome.
Best regards and thanks to all!!
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.
Message 6
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Karl
-
Pro seal is like a 2 part epoxy. Mix togather and apply.. It forms a rubber
compound when cured. It is used in the a/c industry to-install windshiel
ds,-patch fuel cells.Etc. Van's recommends-that Pro-Seal be used when
-building and sealing the fuel tanks in their line of R V's. -Aircraft
Spruce has it...Almost all the suppliers of aircraft parts, should have it.
-
Jim Brown
--- On Tue, 7/14/09, Karl Heindl <kheindl@msn.com> wrote:
From: Karl Heindl <kheindl@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Fuel Tank Leak
#yiv1694235164 .hmmessage P
{
margin:0px;padding:0px;}
#yiv1694235164 {
font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
-
Jim, can you tell us more about this pro seal ? Who sells it, i.e. website
info.
-
Thank you,-- Karl
-
From: acrojim7534@YAHOO.COM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel Tank Leak
Jeff
-
I repaired a small crack in the original tank in our monowheel when it deve
loped a small crack on the back side of the tank.
-
You need to make sure that the area is cleaned and sanded with 80 grit..The
n I cleaned the spot on the tank with acetone, I used pro seal and covered
the crack (which was about 1/2 inch long) with the pro seal. Then I took a
piece of rubber sheet about two inches in diameter- and 1/8 inches thick)
slathered pro seal on the rubber and put over the crack. I then slathered t
he pro seal over the whole patch.
-
Again make sure the tank is cleaned with acetone befor you start.
-
Walk away let cure couple days, then put gas in tank and check for leaks..
-
Jim Brown
--- On Tue, 7/14/09, JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm..net> wrote:
From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel Tank Leak
Okay, After some closer inspection it appears the fuel may be coming out of
the side of the tunnel area about 4 inches from the bottom of the tank rig
ht where I bonded a nylon tab with the old re-dux during the build to hold
a cable. Is it possible that could have weakened the tank in that spot and
it's taken a few years for it to come thru.
Graham... maybe there was something in the molding of the tank like you sai
d that created a spot leak.
I will check it tomorrow with about 5 psi of air pressure and some soap wat
er on the spot, but here is a question.
If it is a spot leak and I can patch it what would be the best patch to use
?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. I don't want to gut her if I don't have
to!!!! ;o((
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and climbing slowly.
On Jul 13, 2009, at 5:52 PM, Jeff B wrote:
>
> Dude!- What a drag!- And I thought I had problems with instrumentatio
n and Auto Pilots.- WOW!- Ok, gut her and get her fixed.- You got abo
ut nine weeks...
>
> Jeff - Baby Blue
>
> JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
>> We'll after seeing my fuel run onto the floor today after I added 5 gall
ons I started to search for a leak. I'm now becoming painfully aware of the
fact that it looks like my tank has ruptured somewhere. It's looking like
around where the tank was glassed onto the cockpit module in the port rear
inside portion of the tunnel. I can't remember where the seams of the tank
are but there must be one back there. Has anyone else experienced this leak
there?
>> I remember some talk of someone making an aluminum version. Has that bee
n done anywhere that one might buy a duplicate?
>> Looks like some major surgery coming up. :o(
>> If anyone has a tank in the states I may be interested.
>> Jeff R.
>> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and now going to be down for surgery
..
>> size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?Europa-List href="http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ----------------------------------
--------------------------------------
>> Checkeailable via the Web nbsp; - - - - - - - - - -Mat
t matronics.com/contribution" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/cont
ri===============
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
=0A=0A=0A
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Tank Leak Found |
Jeff,
If you can't get the Pro Seal to work, my suggestion would be to pull
the tank. Once out, you might as well replace it, so the Tap process is
a non issue. Don't heat the tank, especially in the A/C.
When installing the new tank, you might try lining the original glass
layups (if they still exist) with a thin felt. That way the tank can
move, slightly.
Jeff - baby Blue
JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
> To All that responded... THANKS!
> After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I
> have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the corner
> of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is bonded onto
> the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as the non giving
> glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm now in agreement
> with Steve in that these tanks should not be glassed in but rather
> fitted in a way that allows some movement. Okay too late for me now...
> It is however in an area that I can reach it to repair it either using
> pro-seal or the tap plastics product.
>
> Options:
> 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the
> tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not being
> able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe once it sets
> up thats not necessary. ???
> 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg sent sounds like a better
> way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me to cut an
> additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that later.
> BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank after
> draining it so I don't blow myself up :o( trying to flame treat the to
> be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air into the tank
> and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the filler cap. Any
> other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial hairs are welcome.
>
> Best regards and thanks to all!!
>
>
> Jeff R.
> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.
> size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Tank Leak Found |
Jeff
-
The patch was a "feel good thing" I did. I was unsure how well the pro seal
would work and I felt the need for insurance.
-
The tank about three or four years later developed a crack like you have. I
t had also cracked at the edge of the fiberglass layup in the tunnel. I had
to replace the tank and I did NOT glass- it in. Its free standing...
-
Once I got the tank out I had a look at the original patch.. It was still s
ealed tight. I took pliers and tried to pull it off, I got it removed, but
it was in torn in several pieces by the pliers.
-
Jim Brown
--- On Tue, 7/14/09, JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net> wrote:
From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Tank Leak Found
To All that responded... THANKS!
After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I have l
ocated a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the corner of the g
lass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is bonded onto the tank to h
old it in. It looks like a stress crack as the non giving glass may have pu
lled on the tank as it flexed. I'm now in agreement with Steve in that thes
e tanks should not be glassed in but rather fitted in a way that allows som
e movement. Okay too late for me now... It is however in an area that I can
reach it to repair it either using pro-seal or the tap plastics product.
Options:
1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the tank
a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not being able to c
ompress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe once it sets up thats no
t necessary. ???
2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg sent sounds like a better wa
y to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me to cut an addi
tional hole behind the access hole and then repair that later. BUT... how d
o I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank after draining it so I don'
t blow myself up :o( trying to flame treat the to be repaired area on the t
ank. Maybe continuing to pump air into the tank and allow the fumes to even
tually evaporate thru the filler cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid burn
ing off any facial hairs are welcome.
Best regards and thanks to all!!
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.=0A=0A=0A
Message 9
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|
I too, have good things about pro-seal being used (non-poly situations). It
certainly seems the safer way to go.
The other route, I would personally run air through the tank, bottom to top,
for a minimum of 2 weeks, while the gas and fumes are excised out of the
plastic.
With the fuel issues, time involved, and cutting an access hole, maybe this
method is a bit demanding.
Greg
_____________________________
Options:
1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the tank a
few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not being able to
compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe once it sets up thats
not necessary. ???
2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg sent sounds like a better way
to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me to cut an
additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that later. BUT...
how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank after draining it so I
don't blow myself up :o( trying to flame treat the to be repaired area on
the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air into the tank and allow the fumes to
eventually evaporate thru the filler cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid
burning off any facial hairs are welcome.
Best regards and thanks to all!!
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Tank Leak Found |
Purging petrol fumes, I was told by a welder of petrol tanks that he ran a car
exhaust in to the tank to purge it of petrol fumes and also air !
The alternative solution would be purge with an inert gas, IE nitrogen,this is
done when working on natural gas pipelines.
Make sure any pockets that could hold inflammable mix is purged,personally I would
check the completeness of the purge with a gas detector .. also check adjacent
areas for fuel puddles & Fumes
Kevin
--- On Tue, 14/7/09, Jim Brown <acrojim7534@YAHOO.COM> wrote:
> From: Jim Brown <acrojim7534@YAHOO.COM>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tank Leak Found
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, 14 July, 2009, 8:21 PM
> Jeff
>
> The patch was a "feel good thing" I did. I
> was unsure how well the pro seal would work and I felt the
> need for insurance.
>
> The tank about three or four years later developed a
> crack like you have. It had also cracked at the edge of the
> fiberglass layup in the tunnel. I had to replace the tank
> and I did NOT glass it in. Its free standing...
>
> Once I got the tank out I had a look at the original
> patch.. It was still sealed tight. I took pliers and tried
> to pull it off, I got it removed, but it was in torn in
> several pieces by the pliers.
>
> Jim Brown
>
> --- On Tue, 7/14/09, JEFF ROBERTS
> <jeff@rmmm..net> wrote:
>
>
> From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
> Subject: Europa-List: Tank Leak Found
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, July 14, 2009, 6:14 PM
>
>
> To All that responded... THANKS!
> After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap
> mixture I have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running
> diagonal from the corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel.
> Its where the glass is bonded onto the tank to hold it in.
> It looks like a stress crack as the non giving glass may
> have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm now in
> agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be
> glassed in but rather fitted in a way that allows some
> movement. Okay too late for me now... It is however in an
> area that I can reach it to repair it either using pro-seal
> or the tap plastics product.
>
> Options:
> 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the
> top of the tank a few years back and it works well. I'm
> concerned about not being able to compress a patch around it
> or over it though. Maybe once it sets up thats not
> necessary. ???
> 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg
> sent sounds like a better way to go as a permanent patch.
> This one though may require me to cut an additional hole
> behind the access hole and then repair that later. BUT...
> how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank after
> draining it so I don't blow myself up :o( trying to
> flame treat the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe
> continuing to pump air into the tank and allow the fumes to
> eventually evaporate thru the filler cap. Any other Ideas to
> help me avoid burning off any facial hairs are welcome.
>
> Best regards and thanks to all!!
>
>
> Jeff R.
> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for
> repairs.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Hi Jim
How long have you been using Proseal on your tank?
Do you use 100LL or Mogas?
Is it OK for additives and
ethenolin Mogas?
Thx.
Ron Paerigoris
"> Pro seal is like a 2 part epoxy. Mix togather and apply.. It
forms a
> rubber compound when cured. It is used in the a/c
industry toinstall
> windshields,patch fuel
cells.Etc. Van's recommendsthat ProSeal be used
>
whenbuilding and sealing the fuel tanks in their line of R V's.
Aircraft
> Spruce has it...Almost all the suppliers of
aircraft parts, should have
> it."
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Tank Leak Found |
I believe I'm going to pro seal the crack and use the patch idea. Maybe
before I replace the tank in the future the new Europa will come up
with an alternitive plan for doing this or a new tank. Maybe they
should consider a metal option.
Thanks again guys. Hoe to see you all at Rough River!!
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush
On Jul 14, 2009, at 2:08 PM, Jeff B wrote:
>
> Jeff,
>
> If you can't get the Pro Seal to work, my suggestion would be to pull
> the tank. Once out, you might as well replace it, so the Tap process
> is a non issue. Don't heat the tank, especially in the A/C.
>
> When installing the new tank, you might try lining the original glass
> layups (if they still exist) with a thin felt. That way the tank can
> move, slightly.
>
> Jeff - baby Blue
>
> JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
>> To All that responded... THANKS!
>> After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I
>> have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the
>> corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is
>> bonded onto the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as
>> the non giving glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm
>> now in agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be glassed
>> in but rather fitted in a way that allows some movement. Okay too
>> late for me now... It is however in an area that I can reach it to
>> repair it either using pro-seal or the tap plastics product.
>> Options:
>> 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the
>> tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not
>> being able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe
>> once it sets up thats not necessary. ???
>> 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg sent sounds like a
>> better way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me
>> to cut an additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that
>> later. BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank
>> after draining it so I don't blow myself up :o( trying to flame treat
>> the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air
>> into the tank and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the
>> filler cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial
>> hairs are welcome.
>> Best regards and thanks to all!!
>> Jeff R.
>> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.
>> size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://
>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
>> www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 13
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Jeff,
I agree with Graham that heat welding is the best but a fuel tank sealant
such as Pro Seal does stick to the plastic material. It is best to put it
on the inside but that does require access causing a potential for another
leak. I would try everything before pulling the tank, not a lot of fun.
Bob
Flight Crafters
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JEFF ROBERTS
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 10:28 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel Tank Leak
Okay, After some closer inspection it appears the fuel may be coming
out of the side of the tunnel area about 4 inches from the bottom of
the tank right where I bonded a nylon tab with the old re-dux during
the build to hold a cable. Is it possible that could have weakened the
tank in that spot and it's taken a few years for it to come thru.
Graham... maybe there was something in the molding of the tank like you
said that created a spot leak.
I will check it tomorrow with about 5 psi of air pressure and some soap
water on the spot, but here is a question.
If it is a spot leak and I can patch it what would be the best patch to
use?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. I don't want to gut her if I don't
have to!!!! ;o((
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and climbing slowly.
On Jul 13, 2009, at 5:52 PM, Jeff B wrote:
>
> Dude! What a drag! And I thought I had problems with instrumentation
> and Auto Pilots. WOW! Ok, gut her and get her fixed. You got about
> nine weeks...
>
> Jeff - Baby Blue
>
> JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
>> We'll after seeing my fuel run onto the floor today after I added 5
>> gallons I started to search for a leak. I'm now becoming painfully
>> aware of the fact that it looks like my tank has ruptured somewhere.
>> It's looking like around where the tank was glassed onto the cockpit
>> module in the port rear inside portion of the tunnel. I can't
>> remember where the seams of the tank are but there must be one back
>> there. Has anyone else experienced this leak there?
>> I remember some talk of someone making an aluminum version. Has that
>> been done anywhere that one might buy a duplicate?
>> Looks like some major surgery coming up. :o(
>> If anyone has a tank in the states I may be interested.
>> Jeff R.
>> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and now going to be down for
>> surgery.
>> size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://
>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
>> www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> --
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
17:57:00
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Tank Leak Found |
On Jul 14, 2009, at 2:43 PM, JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
> I believe I'm going to pro seal the crack and use the patch idea.
> Maybe before I replace the tank in the future the new Europa will
> come up with an alternitive plan for doing this or a new tank.
Best of luck to you Jeff...
This thread prompts me to review my build log photos, and I'm noticing
that I extended Layup #2 all the way to the bottom corners of the tank
in hopes of preventing a stress concentration where the #2 layup ends
as shown in Fig. 5 of chapter 16 in the manual. I thank Ron Pagoris
for that tip, and I also plan to add the foam and bond-break sheet
between the bottom of the tank and fuselage in order that the tank
have uniform support across its bottom
At this point of course, I regret having bonded all the FG support
tapes directly to the tank and not allowing the tank to "float" on the
support tapes, but I'm hoping that I'll be able to dodge the bullet
which has caught Jeff and others. What I truly regret is hearing that
little voice which questioned the notion of rigidly bonding in the
tank...promptly ignoring it...and essentially going by the book.
Fred
A194
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Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Tank Leak Found |
Jim, and all,
I'm going to use the pro seal approach and keep an eye on it. I would
like to use the patch but have no material. Question... Since it is a
patch why not just use a local piece of fuel can material. I thought
Id' follow your advice and and rough it up with 80 grit on both the
patch and the tank plus clean them with acetone before application.
Sound okay to you all?
Thanks,
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush
On Jul 14, 2009, at 2:21 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> Jeff
>
> The patch was a "feel good thing" I did. I was unsure how well the pro
> seal would work and I felt the need for insurance.
>
> The tank about three or four years later developed a crack like you
> have. It had also cracked at the edge of the fiberglass layup in the
> tunnel. I had to replace the tank and I did NOT glass it in. Its free
> standing...
>
> Once I got the tank out I had a look at the original patch.. It was
> still sealed tight. I took pliers and tried to pull it off, I got it
> removed, but it was in torn in several pieces by the pliers.
>
> Jim Brown
>
> --- On Tue, 7/14/09, JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm..net> wrote:
>>
>> From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
>> Subject: Europa-List: Tank Leak Found
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>> Date: Tuesday, July 14, 2009, 6:14 PM
>>
>> To All that responded... THANKS!
>> After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I
>> have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the
>> corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is
>> bonded onto the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as
>> the non giving glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm
>> now in agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be glassed
>> in but rather fitted in a way that allows some movement. Okay too
>> late for me now... It is however in an area that I can reach it to
>> repair it either using pro-seal or the tap plastics product.
>>
>> Options:
>> 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the
>> tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not
>> being able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe
>> once it sets up thats not necessary. ???
>> 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg sent sounds like a
>> better way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me
>> to cut an additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that
>> later. BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank
>> after draining it so I don't blow myself up :o( trying to flame treat
>> the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air
>> into the tank and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the
>> filler cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial
>> hairs are welcome.
>>
>> Best regards and thanks to all!!
>>
>>
>> Jeff R.
>> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Tank Leak Found |
Hi Jeff,
I don't know if this is a dumb idea or not, but I was wondering is it is
practical to seal up the tank, put Proseal on the leak and then connect a
vacuum pump to the tank to suck the sealant into the crack.
Proseal is awfully messy stuff, but is it has a good track record for
blocking up leaks in petrol tanks/
Paul
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