Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:35 AM - Re: 3mm Birch Plywood (flyingphil2)
2. 10:10 AM - Carb Mate / Rough River / Cooling (JEFF ROBERTS)
3. 12:54 PM - Panel Testing (mike gamble)
4. 01:19 PM - Re: Panel Testing (Mike Parkin)
5. 01:33 PM - EAS Swiss fly in (Duncan & Ami McFadyean)
6. 02:47 PM - Re: EAS Swiss fly in (Robert C Harrison)
7. 04:26 PM - Re: Congrats to Jeff,Cooling feedback for Bud (Bud Yerly)
8. 04:36 PM - Re: Panel Testing (Bud Yerly)
9. 05:55 PM - Landing Gear Frame (Robert Hatton)
10. 06:09 PM - 16.5mm Reamer for Mod 72 (Robert Hatton)
11. 09:20 PM - Gearbox removal tool (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 3mm Birch Plywood |
Hi Rowland,
Thanks for the tip. GL1 and GL2 are 'aircraft grade' whereas BB isn't (but obviously
BB is fine for what we need it for). GL1 is expensive, GL2 is cheaper
(but still more expensive than BB) and would do. Unfortunately skycraft don't
have any in stock!
I'll keep looking but thanks anyway.
Phil
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 2
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| Subject: | Carb Mate / Rough River / Cooling |
Hi All,
I just finished a few days back balancing my carbs with the new Carb
Mate the the Rotax Owners had on video not too long ago. Just want to
say it was much easier than I thought it would be and the unit was very
easy to use. Jeff of Baby Blue. Thanks for your encouragement! Your
we're right. The carbs we're very easy to take apart and clean. I'm
happy to say the engine has never run so smooth.
Now here is the deal... The company in Canada I ordered it from filled
my order twice. In other words I have two of them. I told the company
before I send one back I'll check with the list to see If anyone coming
to Rough River would be interested in the other one. If you are please
let me know off list and I'll be glad to bring it in it's new box. 1st
come 1st served ;-) The price is $223.40 but that includes all the
extras and the shipping. You can see it at www.bullyhawk.com.
On another note for anyone still having cooling issues.
I have struggled with this for 3 years every time it got over 90
degrees when climbing out. I thought I'd never solve it as everything I
did didn't help.
2 weeks ago I removed the upper metal tunnel or cooling duct and
lowered it about an inch or so more in the rear but left the front up
high. There's now about an inch and a half between the muffler and the
top of the metal duct. I already had the oil cooler lowered behind the
water radiator but this time I lowered the water radiator about a half
an inch. While I had it all apart I changed from Evans to 50/50. I
can't say which one of these moves made the difference. I would suspect
they all helped, but it was 96 out last week as I tested it in a steep
climb. The CHT temps never broke 230. I couldn't even get it to heat up
on the ground with long taxies or run ups. Last winter I also made the
plenum for over the cylinder cooling fins so now my front to rear CHT's
are within 10 degrees of each other. Needless to say I'm very pleased.
Hope any of this helps others with similar problems.
Regards,
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 196 hours and and still learning.
Message 3
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Checking my panel on the bench before installation.
Powered up with 12V and before switching off in a panic, I observed a
rise on the voltmeter which I expected but also a rise on the fuel
gauge, the oil pressure and at least one of the temp gauges .
What should I expect the standard rotax engine instruments to read if
their sensors are not connected? Have I wrecked them already?
Reassurance needed.
Thanks
Mike Gamble
XS 440
Message 4
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Mike,
I think you will find they are fine. To test the function, use a
potentiometer.
Some of the them read full scale, others read min scale when disconnected
from the sensor.
Regards,
Mike
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike gamble
Sent: 19 August 2009 20:54
Subject: Europa-List: Panel Testing
Checking my panel on the bench before installation.
Powered up with 12V and before switching off in a panic, I observed a rise
on the voltmeter which I expected but also a rise on the fuel gauge, the oil
pressure and at least one of the temp gauges .
What should I expect the standard rotax engine instruments to read if their
sensors are not connected? Have I wrecked them already?
Reassurance needed.
Thanks
Mike Gamble
XS 440
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06:03:00
Message 5
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| Subject: | EAS Swiss fly in |
Anyone doing the above (21 -23 August).
Details:
http://www.experimental.ch/
Current Wx suggests it could be done in a hot air balloon! (out on
Saturday, return Sunday, not too late.
Duncan McF
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | EAS Swiss fly in |
Hi! Duncan
I hope to be going Friday but have to return Saturday. However that was on
the basis of yesterday's XC weather predictions!
I see tonight that Friday now looks poor on track across France. I didn't
get to speak to Ivor today but we like to set off early if necessary and
Thursday looks OK but not sure we can get our "ducks in a row" before then !
Will revert when I know more. (We were meeting at Lydd approx 9am Friday but
I have now spoken to Ivor and he could be ready to go tomorrow Thursday
about Lunch time but he will check the weather in the morning and revert but
I have to still return on Saturday)
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan & Ami
McFadyean
Sent: 19 August 2009 21:31
Subject: Europa-List: EAS Swiss fly in
Anyone doing the above (21 -23 August).
Details:
http://www.experimental.ch/
Current Wx suggests it could be done in a hot air balloon! (out on Saturday,
return Sunday, not too late.
Duncan McF
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Congrats to Jeff,Cooling feedback for Bud |
Jeff,
Glad to hear the cooling issues are relieved. Well done and thanks for
passing it on.
For consumption by others and for feedback, I'd like to hear other
fliers comments also.
>From my shop experience:
Evans replaced by 60-40 or 50-50 is a 10 degree drop minimum. (Sorry
Mr. Evans)
I Jeff's case, by moving the duct two things probably happened:
For the tri-gear, (those with the wide open area around the nose gear
trunion and with the firewall moved back behind the nose gear to the
added bulkhead), moving the duct down, doesn't cause as much of a
difference. But the bungees/springs/hoses etc. in the back portion of
the nose wheel well can restrict flow, and moving the duct down will
help as it opens the two triangles on either side of the duct adding
significant air exit for the heat. It also moves the hot accelerated
air of the radiators lower in the duct. This heated air streaming out
can cause a potential suction which may help pull air out of the cowl.
(Same affect as using the exhaust venturi.)
I once did this with a cowl flap which lowered a reshaped upper metal
duct ramp and and the cowl ramp bottom together and went from 12 minutes
to overheat on the ground to 30 minutes to 240 F. It was capable of max
continuous climb with the flap open. I now just reshape the fixed ramp
dimensions for simplicity.
Finally, I have found that moving the air intakes up to near the seam
and putting a plenum over the engine or perhaps adding a duct like Jeff
did, forces air over the cylinders. This helps on climb out in super hot
conditions, but not much affect in cruise.
Tips for those who prefer a stock install:
Sealing the front and sides of the metal duct tight to the fiberglass
cowl opening is really important. A leak in this area can cause a high
pressure bubble of air in the cowl under the cylinders and literally
trap heat under the engine and reduce the effectiveness of the inlet air
intakes. It also reduces the pressure differential across the
radiator/oil cooler which is essential to the heat transfer for cooling.
The hole for the nose gear leg adds turbulence and pressure to the back
side of the radiator exit. Consider a piece of silicone cowl seal slit
to make cowl installation easy and close this hole up.
Open up the inlets fully. Don't leave a lip as it just restricts the
flow into the cowl.
Mostly, you can lower temps 20 degrees just doing the following:
Begin by closing off the area between the sides of the oil cooler and
duct.
Always lower the oil cooler as far as you can if you have a 912S or 914
(2-2.5 inches is possible but change the elbow out for a straight
fitting).
I just found this leak. The area between the oil cooler and radiator is
nearly a 1/2 inch and you'd be surprised how much potential cooling air
goes under the radiator, up and over the oil cooler then out through the
space above the oil cooler. This high pressure air degrades the
radiator effectiveness as the air passes up the back of the radiator and
out. Assembling the oil cooler as close to the radiator as possible, or
by adding sheet metal/sealing material to reduce this exit air gap is a
help. (Don't let any seal rub the cooler though.)
Finally, the seal under the oil cooler must be tight between the oil
cooler and the fiberglass ramp and continue up the sides of the oil
cooler.
>From NACA documentation, I found it interesting that 70% of the air
hitting against a radiator will build pressure and force itself out
around the radiator in either free air or in a loose duct rather than go
through the core. So keep it tight.
Also somewhere I found the statement that in a tightly cowled inline
engine, for efficient cooling drag ratios, the ratio of air outlet to
inlet should be as close to 1-1 when in cruise as possible, and 4 to one
with the cowl flaps open, in climb. I can't find that reference right
now. However, in the Europa, with the cowl inlet air hole area of 14 or
so square inches, we need a minimum of 56 inches of exit air, just for
the cowl air. But in a mono wheel, ours is two triangles either side of
the duct and fiberglass ramp of about 15 to 20 inches, and if you are
lucky, 13 square inches between the firewall and upper metal duct for a
total of 33 inches of cowl exit air max. As you can see, this makes the
air exit of the cowl nearly 1 or 2 to 1. This is OK for cruise, but a
disaster for cooling in high power climbs at low speed, especially if
turbo equipped. This 4-1 ratio works in my experience. To cool well in
summer I try to get 100 square inches of exit air (Tri-gear) out of the
cowl (Mono with fixed duct 60 square inches, cowl flap added 90). That
is just for the cowl air, and does not include the duct exit for the
radiator. That is a lot of glass and metal work, and seems to be worth
it.
I would like the time to reshape my duct in my demonstrator to see the
affect of each of the above. My demonstrator just passed airworthiness,
and will fly soon, (N12AY, Classic, tri-gear, 914, fixed pitch for data
reasons (LSA experimenting) then Airmaster). I am obligated to do a
stock installation with just sealing the duct as above and taking data.
It's not rocket science, it just takes time.
Feedback?
Again, Good Job Jeff!
See you at Rough River.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations
Europa Dealer
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Panel Testing |
You're OK.
Most instruments (VDO/Mitchell) read zero (or high ohms) open and pegged
(low ohms) or shorted to ground. Depends on the sender. Most engine
instruments use a resister that sends 5 volts to the sender wire. They
read the differential voltage through the sender to ground. Ground the
sender wire and it should read zero. Fuel senders are an odd sort,
depends on the manufacturer, type (resistive or capacitance).
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: mike gamble<mailto:mp.gamble@tiscali.co.uk>
To: Europa-List@Matronics.Com<mailto:Europa-List@Matronics.Com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 3:53 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Panel Testing
Checking my panel on the bench before installation.
Powered up with 12V and before switching off in a panic, I observed a
rise on the voltmeter which I expected but also a rise on the fuel
gauge, the oil pressure and at least one of the temp gauges .
What should I expect the standard rotax engine instruments to read if
their sensors are not connected? Have I wrecked them already?
Reassurance needed.
Thanks
Mike Gamble
XS 440
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Landing Gear Frame |
I am checking over the landing gear after a heavy landing and one of the
supports in the Landing Gear Frame appears to have a slight and small crack.
Although it still attached to the frame. It does not seem to have been
welded (but I could be wrong), it seems to have been glued in, and I wonder
if anyone has any advice for how I might remove the support in order to
clean up and subsequently re-attach it? I am taking the opportunity to clean
up the rest of the Landing gear frame too, which does not display any other
issues.
I have attached the diagram and a photo to show what I am looking at,
although it is difficult to see the crack. Any advice would be gratefully
received.
All the Best
Rob
Robert Hatton
email: roberthatton1@googlemail.com
US Cell: +01 303 906 9395
Message 10
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| Subject: | 16.5mm Reamer for Mod 72 |
Hello All,
Would anyone in the USA have a 16.5mm reamer I could borrow in order to
carry out Mod 72? I am happy to pay for postage and packing.
Robert Hatton
email: roberthatton1@googlemail.com
US Cell: +01 303 906 9395
Message 11
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| Subject: | Gearbox removal tool |
Hi Rob
Pleasure talking with you.
Here is one place
that sells a gearbox puller:
http://74.125.93.132/search?q=cache:c-3tCsBuyPQJ:www.800-airwolf.com/cpsnews.htm+rotax+912+gearbox+removal+tool&cd=5&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us
I need one too, if during your search you find a good deal on
2.
Ron P.
> I am checking over the landing gear after a
heavy landing and one of the
> supports in the Landing Gear Frame
appears to have a slight and small
> crack.
> Although
it still attached to the frame. It does not seem to have been
>
welded (but I could be wrong), it seems to have been glued in, and I
> wonder
> if anyone has any advice for how I might remove
the support in order to
> clean up and subsequently re-attach it?
I am taking the opportunity to
> clean
> up the rest of
the Landing gear frame too, which does not display any
> other
> issues.
>
>
>
> I have
attached the diagram and a photo to show what I am looking at,
>
although it is difficult to see the crack. Any advice would be gratefully
> received.
>
>
>
> All the
Best
>
>
>
> Rob
>
>
>
> Robert Hatton
>
> email:
roberthatton1@googlemail.com
>
> US Cell: +01 303 906
9395
>
>
>
>
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