---------------------------------------------------------- Europa-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 10/29/09: 9 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:51 AM - Re: Monowheel Glide ratio (Raimo Toivio) 2. 06:21 AM - Re: Monowheel master cylinder? (Raimo Toivio) 3. 06:48 AM - Re: Monowheel master cylinder? (Bob Borger) 4. 07:48 AM - Re: Monowheel master cylinder? (Raimo Toivio) 5. 08:04 AM - Re: Monowheel master cylinder? (Fred Klein) 6. 09:28 AM - Re: Monowheel master cylinder? (Bob Borger) 7. 02:40 PM - Re: Coolant overheating (Frans Veldman) 8. 05:40 PM - Re: Coolant overheating (Karl Heindl) 9. 05:56 PM - Re: Oshkosh 2009 video to music (Peter Zutrauen) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:51:34 AM PST US From: "Raimo Toivio" Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel Glide ratio Hi Michel, I have you some info: 1) During test flight phase #1 (2007) I unfired the engine and trimmed 70 knots and saw -700 feet /min in the variometer. Glide ratio was 700 feet /min : 70 knots = 3,6 m/s : 36 m/s = 1:10. - TOW was 520 kgs, prop was Warp Drive fixed blade angle set 20 degrees and NOT windmilling ie. prop was not rotating. 2) During test flight phase #2 (2009) I unfired again my engine and trimmed 70 knots and saw this time -400 feet /min in the variometer. Glide ratio was 400 feet /min : 70 knots = 2 m/s : 36 m/s = 1:18. - TOW was 537 kgs, prop was Airmaster and blades were feathered During both cases the plane was XS Mono with speed kit (empty weight 401 kg /2007 and 412 kgs /2009) and it was clean (flaps & gear up). I assume 70 knots gives the best glide ratio. Notice: I have no idea what was an influence of possible thermal lifts during flights. I think GD 1:10 equals about universal GAs like Cessna 172. What a difference between blades in normal position or feathered ones! That is also a remakable safety factor: Imagine flying at 15000 feet. Stop the engine, feather blades and trim 70 knots. After hour you are still in altitude 3000 feet and the distance from an original position is 35 nm /65 km. I do understand always smiling glider people - it is so beautiful to just soar. These figures are just suggestive but I hope you got some idea. I am sure you will very soon get more specific and detailed information... I would love to know whats glide ratio with gliding wings AND feathered prop (my guess: 1:25). Raimo OH-XRT from Finland ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michel AUVRAY" Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 9:43 PM Subject: Europa-List: Monowheel Glide ratio > > Hi all, > Does anyone have calculated the real Europa glide ration with the engine > stop? > Thanks > > -- > > --|-- > --------(*)-------- > Michel AUVRAY > mau11@free.fr > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:21:23 AM PST US From: "Raimo Toivio" Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? Bob, I am going to the permanently installed refilling bottle. That will be semiplastic, semitransparent and equipped with an easily openable cap. The bottle will be aesthetical and the crown of RT`s cockpit, do not worry. I have also checked it will not prevent the normal use of the brake lever. The breathing hole is NOT necessary because because it is not an ordinary reservoir. The tube between the bottle and the cylinder will/must have an OFF-ON valve. Normally the valve will be always OFF. I will open it only when the system must be filled or refilled. That means no changes to the POH. How to fill (worn pads or very cold): 1) open the cap of the bottle. 2) open the valve. 3) gently make some peaceful strokes by lever 4) close the valve 5) close the cap. How to refill (when new pads or very hot): 1) as fore 2) as fore 3) gently push some amount the lever and keep it there (there must be space for extra fluid in the bottle!) 4) as fore 5) as fore 6) relax the lever All this will be one minute task and no mesh and always ideal brakes. Changing the whole cylinder is not a realistic option for me! I definetely do not want to spoil and make a new leather upholstery when removing an old cylinder an installing new one. If I were still in the building phase I would absolutely go for it. I would love to have also a parking pressure valve! Now I have only a mechanical one (a triangle shape alu sheet with a lanyard connected by a miniatyre pip-pin) but I am happy with it and it makes passenger(s) relaxing because it is so...funny. Raimo OH-XRT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Borger" Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? > > Raimo, > > If the fill opening of the master cylinder is in the pressure side of the cylinder > and you connect the reservoir directly to it, then when you apply the brake the > pressure will force the fluid in the cylinder back into the reservoir. Notice that > the reservoir cap is vented. If the reservoir is full and you apply the brake the > fluid will be forced out the vent hole and you will only make a mess of the > area around the reservoir. > > I guess you could try plugging the vent and filling the reservoir full in an > effort to contain the pressure but then you are making the plastic body a > pressure vessel. I don't know how long the plastic would accept such > pressure cycling before it either stripped some set of threads or just cracked. > And you have a mess around the reservoir. > > There will have to be some means of closing the system between the > reservoir and master cylinder. It can be a check valve (yes similar to a > diode in an electrical sense, something similar to the check valves used > in the fuel system to provide bypass of a failed pump) or a manually > operated valve which would be open to fill the master cylinder and closed > for brake operation. This would require a re-write of the aircraft check list to > confirm close prior to engine start and open after engine shutdown. More > complication to the operation. > > Bob > > On Friday, October 16, 2009, at 05:14AM, "Raimo Toivio" wrote: > > > >Tim, > > > >I think valve is not necessary if you keep the reservoir always full-filled. > >And it is easy to keep it so (much easier like cylinder). > >Adding no-return valve is a 2nd level to enhance brake system.(I assume no-return-valve is like diode for electricitet). > > > >Raimo OH-XRT > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Tim Ward" > >To: > >Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 11:44 PM > >Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? > > > > > >> > >> Don't forget a 'non-return valve' has to be installed as well. > >> Tim Ward > >> 12 Waiwetu Street' > >> Fendalton, > >> Christchurch. > >> NEW ZEALAND > >> > >> Ph. 64 3 3515166 > >> Mob 021 0640221 > >> Email ward.t@xtra.co.nz > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: "Flying Farmer" > >> To: > >> Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 9:27 AM > >> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? > >> > >> > >> > > >> > > >> > Please don't throw loose articles at me from around your work shop's > >> > But aren't the Mono Brake cylinders ( Trigear Toe Brakes ) A sealed unit > >> > and only work when the top filling plug is installed? > >> > If this is so, simple pluming a reservoir will not work as it will not > >> > take the pressure when the lever is pulled. > >> > A simple short tube screwed into the master cylinder, then the original > >> > plug screwed onto the top to seal the unit. This will allow for extra > >> > fluid and allow for the wear down of the pads. > >> > > >> > I could be wrong!!! > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:48:06 AM PST US From: Bob Borger Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? Raimo, That's exactly the scenario I was investigating. I even have the little transparent reservoir and was ready to plumb it into the cylinder with some sort of valve. It should work well enough. Please post pics of your system once you have it working. I'm sure there are others out there who would like to implement some similar solution to the lack of master cylinder reservoir. I'm still awaiting the new master cylinder to be shipped from France. My plan is to install the new master cylinder on the pilot stick. Perhaps install another on the co-pilot side at some point in the future if I see a need (allowing my buddy Gary to check others out on the monowheel prior to flying their own?). Once the new master cylinder is installed and all works well, I will make a new aluminum cover plate to replace the cover with the brake slot. It will also be slightly larger to extend back and cover the fill hole for the old brake master cylinder. That will allow a neat solution to the holes in the leather without having to replace the leather cover. Check six, Bob Borger On Thursday, October 29, 2009, at 08:21AM, "Raimo Toivio" wrote: >Bob, > >I am going to the permanently installed refilling bottle. That will be semiplastic, semitransparent and equipped with an easily openable cap. The bottle will be aesthetical and the crown of RT`s cockpit, do not worry. I have also checked it will not prevent the normal use of the brake lever. > >The breathing hole is NOT necessary because because it is not an ordinary reservoir. > >The tube between the bottle and the cylinder will/must have an OFF-ON valve. >Normally the valve will be always OFF. >I will open it only when the system must be filled or refilled. >That means no changes to the POH. > >How to fill (worn pads or very cold): > >1) open the cap of the bottle. >2) open the valve. >3) gently make some peaceful strokes by lever >4) close the valve >5) close the cap. > >How to refill (when new pads or very hot): > >1) as fore >2) as fore >3) gently push some amount the lever and keep it there (there must be space for extra fluid in the bottle!) >4) as fore >5) as fore >6) relax the lever > >All this will be one minute task and no mesh and always ideal brakes. > >Changing the whole cylinder is not a realistic option for me! > >I definetely do not want to spoil and make a new leather upholstery when removing an old cylinder an installing new one. If I were still in the building phase I would absolutely go for it. > >I would love to have also a parking pressure valve! Now I have only a mechanical one (a triangle shape alu sheet with a lanyard connected by a miniatyre pip-pin) but I am happy with it and it makes passenger(s) relaxing because it is so...funny. > >Raimo OH-XRT > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Bob Borger" >To: >Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 2:54 PM >Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? > > >> >> Raimo, >> >> If the fill opening of the master cylinder is in the pressure side of the cylinder >> and you connect the reservoir directly to it, then when you apply the brake the >> pressure will force the fluid in the cylinder back into the reservoir. Notice that >> the reservoir cap is vented. If the reservoir is full and you apply the brake the >> fluid will be forced out the vent hole and you will only make a mess of the >> area around the reservoir. >> >> I guess you could try plugging the vent and filling the reservoir full in an >> effort to contain the pressure but then you are making the plastic body a >> pressure vessel. I don't know how long the plastic would accept such >> pressure cycling before it either stripped some set of threads or just cracked. >> And you have a mess around the reservoir. >> >> There will have to be some means of closing the system between the >> reservoir and master cylinder. It can be a check valve (yes similar to a >> diode in an electrical sense, something similar to the check valves used >> in the fuel system to provide bypass of a failed pump) or a manually >> operated valve which would be open to fill the master cylinder and closed >> for brake operation. This would require a re-write of the aircraft check list to >> confirm close prior to engine start and open after engine shutdown. More >> complication to the operation. >> >> Bob >> >> On Friday, October 16, 2009, at 05:14AM, "Raimo Toivio" wrote: >> > >> >Tim, >> > >> >I think valve is not necessary if you keep the reservoir always full-filled. >> >And it is easy to keep it so (much easier like cylinder). >> >Adding no-return valve is a 2nd level to enhance brake system.(I assume no-return-valve is like diode for electricitet). >> > >> >Raimo OH-XRT >> > >> >----- Original Message ----- >> >From: "Tim Ward" >> >To: >> >Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 11:44 PM >> >Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? >> > >> > >> >> >> >> Don't forget a 'non-return valve' has to be installed as well. >> >> Tim Ward >> >> 12 Waiwetu Street' >> >> Fendalton, >> >> Christchurch. >> >> NEW ZEALAND >> >> >> >> Ph. 64 3 3515166 >> >> Mob 021 0640221 >> >> Email ward.t@xtra.co.nz >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> >> From: "Flying Farmer" >> >> To: >> >> Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 9:27 AM >> >> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > Please don't throw loose articles at me from around your work shop's >> >> > But aren't the Mono Brake cylinders ( Trigear Toe Brakes ) A sealed unit >> >> > and only work when the top filling plug is installed? >> >> > If this is so, simple pluming a reservoir will not work as it will not >> >> > take the pressure when the lever is pulled. >> >> > A simple short tube screwed into the master cylinder, then the original >> >> > plug screwed onto the top to seal the unit. This will allow for extra >> >> > fluid and allow for the wear down of the pads. >> >> > >> >> > I could be wrong!!! >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> > > > > >> >> >> > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:48:16 AM PST US From: "Raimo Toivio" Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? Bob, when ready you will see. That will be during future winter flying delay. Installing on the stick? That would be absolutely erconomical (HOTAS braking) but could there be some risks lurking??? I know there are some ultras or so with brake lever on the stick. Raimo OH-XRT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Borger" Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 3:47 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? > > Raimo, > > That's exactly the scenario I was investigating. I even have the little transparent reservoir and was ready to plumb it into the cylinder with some sort of valve. It should work well enough. > > Please post pics of your system once you have it working. I'm sure there are others out there who would like to implement some similar solution to the lack of master cylinder reservoir. > > I'm still awaiting the new master cylinder to be shipped from France. My plan is to install the new master cylinder on the pilot stick. Perhaps install another on the co-pilot side at some point in the future if I see a need (allowing my buddy Gary to check others out on the monowheel prior to flying their own?). Once the new master cylinder is installed and all works well, I will make a new aluminum cover plate to replace the cover with the brake slot. It will also be slightly larger to extend back and cover the fill hole for the old brake master cylinder. That will allow a neat solution to the holes in the leather without having to replace the leather cover. > > Check six, > Bob Borger > > On Thursday, October 29, 2009, at 08:21AM, "Raimo Toivio" wrote: > >Bob, > > > >I am going to the permanently installed refilling bottle. That will be semiplastic, semitransparent and equipped with an easily openable cap. The bottle will be aesthetical and the crown of RT`s cockpit, do not worry. I have also checked it will not prevent the normal use of the brake lever. > > > >The breathing hole is NOT necessary because because it is not an ordinary reservoir. > > > >The tube between the bottle and the cylinder will/must have an OFF-ON valve. > >Normally the valve will be always OFF. > >I will open it only when the system must be filled or refilled. > >That means no changes to the POH. > > > >How to fill (worn pads or very cold): > > > >1) open the cap of the bottle. > >2) open the valve. > >3) gently make some peaceful strokes by lever > >4) close the valve > >5) close the cap. > > > >How to refill (when new pads or very hot): > > > >1) as fore > >2) as fore > >3) gently push some amount the lever and keep it there (there must be space for extra fluid in the bottle!) > >4) as fore > >5) as fore > >6) relax the lever > > > >All this will be one minute task and no mesh and always ideal brakes. > > > >Changing the whole cylinder is not a realistic option for me! > > > >I definetely do not want to spoil and make a new leather upholstery when removing an old cylinder an installing new one. If I were still in the building phase I would absolutely go for it. > > > >I would love to have also a parking pressure valve! Now I have only a mechanical one (a triangle shape alu sheet with a lanyard connected by a miniatyre pip-pin) but I am happy with it and it makes passenger(s) relaxing because it is so...funny. > > > >Raimo OH-XRT > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Bob Borger" > >To: > >Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 2:54 PM > >Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? > > > > > >> > >> Raimo, > >> > >> If the fill opening of the master cylinder is in the pressure side of the cylinder > >> and you connect the reservoir directly to it, then when you apply the brake the > >> pressure will force the fluid in the cylinder back into the reservoir. Notice that > >> the reservoir cap is vented. If the reservoir is full and you apply the brake the > >> fluid will be forced out the vent hole and you will only make a mess of the > >> area around the reservoir. > >> > >> I guess you could try plugging the vent and filling the reservoir full in an > >> effort to contain the pressure but then you are making the plastic body a > >> pressure vessel. I don't know how long the plastic would accept such > >> pressure cycling before it either stripped some set of threads or just cracked. > >> And you have a mess around the reservoir. > >> > >> There will have to be some means of closing the system between the > >> reservoir and master cylinder. It can be a check valve (yes similar to a > >> diode in an electrical sense, something similar to the check valves used > >> in the fuel system to provide bypass of a failed pump) or a manually > >> operated valve which would be open to fill the master cylinder and closed > >> for brake operation. This would require a re-write of the aircraft check list to > >> confirm close prior to engine start and open after engine shutdown. More > >> complication to the operation. > >> > >> Bob > >> > >> On Friday, October 16, 2009, at 05:14AM, "Raimo Toivio" wrote: > >> > > >> >Tim, > >> > > >> >I think valve is not necessary if you keep the reservoir always full-filled. > >> >And it is easy to keep it so (much easier like cylinder). > >> >Adding no-return valve is a 2nd level to enhance brake system.(I assume no-return-valve is like diode for electricitet). > >> > > >> >Raimo OH-XRT > >> > > >> >----- Original Message ----- > >> >From: "Tim Ward" > >> >To: > >> >Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 11:44 PM > >> >Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? > >> > > >> > > >> >> > >> >> Don't forget a 'non-return valve' has to be installed as well. > >> >> Tim Ward > >> >> 12 Waiwetu Street' > >> >> Fendalton, > >> >> Christchurch. > >> >> NEW ZEALAND > >> >> > >> >> Ph. 64 3 3515166 > >> >> Mob 021 0640221 > >> >> Email ward.t@xtra.co.nz > >> >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> >> From: "Flying Farmer" > >> >> To: > >> >> Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 9:27 AM > >> >> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > Please don't throw loose articles at me from around your work shop's > >> >> > But aren't the Mono Brake cylinders ( Trigear Toe Brakes ) A sealed unit > >> >> > and only work when the top filling plug is installed? > >> >> > If this is so, simple pluming a reservoir will not work as it will not > >> >> > take the pressure when the lever is pulled. > >> >> > A simple short tube screwed into the master cylinder, then the original > >> >> > plug screwed onto the top to seal the unit. This will allow for extra > >> >> > fluid and allow for the wear down of the pads. > >> >> > > >> >> > I could be wrong!!! > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > >> > > > > > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:04:04 AM PST US From: Fred Klein Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? On Oct 29, 2009, at 7:15 AM, Raimo Toivio wrote: > Installing on the stick? That would be absolutely erconomical (HOTAS > braking) but could there be some risks lurking??? I know there are > some ultras or so with brake lever on the stick. I know of at least one Europa mono driver who's very happy w/ his stick-mounted hand brake, Alex Bowman, retired ex-RCAF test pilot...course he only has two hands... Fred A194 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:28:34 AM PST US From: Bob Borger Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder? Raimo, I can see where there could be issues with a stick mounted brake if one were careless as to how one gripped the stick and brake. There could be an inadvertent application of the brake if one were not careful. It will require proper positioning of the brake/lever on the stick so that it is easily accessible when needed but not in the way when not needed. We'll see how it goes. Other folks who have it seem to like it. Check six, Bob Borger On Thursday, October 29, 2009, at 09:15AM, "Raimo Toivio" wrote: > >Bob, > >when ready you will see. That will be during future winter flying delay. > >Installing on the stick? That would be absolutely erconomical (HOTAS braking) but could there be some risks lurking??? I know there are some ultras or so with brake lever on the stick. > >Raimo OH-XRT > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 02:40:24 PM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant overheating From: "Frans Veldman" [quote:840d48a39a="kheindl"] I have a trigear/912S with close to 300 hours, with no previous problems of this nature. For my last annual I decided to change coolant (glycol 50/50) and oil, and all hoses and fuel lines. I had also made changes to improve airflow over the engine, at the same time reducing drag. I have since then removed those changes again, but this has made no difference. On the contrary, the temperature seems to be even higher. I just don't want to spill a lot of coolant all over the engine. One idea is to remove the coolant - I have a pump and I can feed the extraction hose right down to the radiator - and then refilling the radiator first, and then the rest. I will keep all informed. [/quote:840d48a39a] Found this post in the archive. I guess you have solved the problem by now, but I would be interested to hear what you had to do to fix it. Fired up my Rotax recently, and now with 3 hours of intermittent running, I can finally keep it running at idle without overheating (that is, with the temperatures stabilizing at 115 Celcius). Quite an improvement, but of course I'm hoping to get further than this. If you found a reason why your Rotax overheated, it might well be worth checking to see if my Rotax has the same problem. Frans Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:40:00 PM PST US From: Karl Heindl Subject: RE: Europa-List: Coolant overheating Hi Frans=2C I just don't remember exactly what cured my overheat problems. One theory w as that there was a leak on one of the hose clamps=2C which didn't show up with a cold engine=2C but would let out steam (and reduce pressure similar to a loose cap) when the engine was hot. Another was a possible airlock. Other changes I had made since then was to increase the air exit area=2C cl ose the gills=2C reduce the round opening on the stbd side by 70%=2C and re duce the large naca scoop by 80%. More recently I replaced the large main o pening with a in-flight variable flap further down and back from the origin al. I want to cut drag as much as possible for when I switch to the long w ings. I know that some or maybe most Europas have no cooling issues at all with a bog standard installation=2C so I hope that you can get that resolved. Of course the 914 is putting out more heat=2C and I don't know if you have tha t baffle which directs air over the cylinder heads. Is the thermostat accur ate ? The probe for mine is in one of the coolant hoses. You had made similar mods to your cowling=2C so that should have helped. Cheers=2C Karl > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant overheating > From: frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl > Date: Thu=2C 29 Oct 2009 23:37:42 +0200 > To: europa-list@matronics.com > .nl> > > [quote:840d48a39a="kheindl"] > I have a trigear/912S with close to 300 hours=2C with no previous problem s of this nature. For my last annual I decided > to change coolant (glycol 50/50) and oil=2C and all hoses and fuel lines. I had also made changes to improve airflow over > the engine=2C at the same time reducing drag. I have since then removed t hose changes again=2C but this has made no difference. > On the contrary=2C the temperature seems to be even higher. > I just don't want to spill a lot of coolant all over the engine. One idea is to remove the coolant - I have a pump and I can > feed the extraction hose right down to the radiator - and then refilling the radiator first=2C and then the rest. > I will keep all informed. > [/quote:840d48a39a] > > Found this post in the archive. I guess you have solved the problem by no w=2C but I would be interested to hear what you had to do to fix it. > > Fired up my Rotax recently=2C and now with 3 hours of intermittent runnin g=2C I can finally keep it running at idle without overheating (that is=2C with the temperatures stabilizing at 115 Celcius). Quite an improvement=2C but of course I'm hoping to get further than this. If you found a reason wh y your Rotax overheated=2C it might well be worth checking to see if my Rot ax has the same problem. > > Frans > > > > > > > Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 05:56:41 PM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Oshkosh 2009 video to music From: Peter Zutrauen Thanks Bob, What an awesome and well-done vid! Brought me right back there...... *sniff* :-) Cheers, Pete On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 6:12 PM, Robert Borger wrote: > > For those of you who couldn't make it. > > http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=nKU0uQki5Dc > > Bob Borger > Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S > http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL > Aircraft Flying! > 3705 Lynchburg Dr. > Corinth, TX 76208 > Home: 940-497-2123 > Cel: 817-992-1117 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message europa-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Europa-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/europa-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/europa-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.