Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:57 AM - Re: Coolant overheating (Frans Veldman)
2. 02:44 AM - Shobdon Weather (Paddy Clarke)
3. 03:05 AM - Re: Coolant overheating (Steve Pitt)
4. 03:24 AM - Re: Coolant overheating (Graham Singleton)
5. 03:30 AM - Re: Coolant overheating (Frans Veldman)
6. 03:34 AM - Damping grease (Frans Veldman)
7. 03:43 AM - Re: Coolant overheating (Frans Veldman)
8. 03:57 AM - Re: Coolant overheating (Graham Singleton)
9. 04:13 AM - Re: Monowheel master cylinder? (Kingsley Hurst)
10. 04:38 AM - Re: Coolant overheating (Kingsley Hurst)
11. 05:18 AM - Re: Coolant overheating (Graham Singleton)
12. 05:27 AM - Re: Coolant overheating (Frans Veldman)
13. 06:13 AM - Carpet glue (Roger Lloyd)
14. 06:24 AM - Re: Coolant overheating (Peter Jeffers)
15. 07:18 AM - Re: Carpet glue (Jeff B)
16. 07:24 AM - Re: Coolant overheating (Jeff B)
17. 07:27 AM - Re: Monowheel master cylinder? (Raimo Toivio)
18. 09:44 AM - oil temp too low (danny shepherd)
19. 11:07 AM - Oil cooler thermostat and air cooler shutter (Sidsel og Svein Johnsen)
20. 02:50 PM - Re: Oil cooler thermostat and air cooler shutter (Steve Pitt)
21. 03:12 PM - Oil thermostat (Sidsel og Svein Johnsen)
22. 03:25 PM - Oil thermostat - function (Sidsel og Svein Johnsen)
23. 04:59 PM - Re: Oil thermostat - function (rparigoris)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant overheating |
Hi Karl,
> Other changes I had made since then was to increase the air exit
> area, close the gills, reduce the round opening on the stbd side by
> 70%, and reduce the large naca scoop by 80%.
The naca scoop is only for the 914. We build a closed cabinet around it,
where only the intake air filter resides. So the engine gets somewhat
"pressurized" air. The 914 doesn't use the naca scoop for anything else,
so you can safely scrap it on 912's.
> More recently I replaced
> the large main opening with a in-flight variable flap further down
> and back from the original.
Any pics? ;-)
I have the flap at the exit. Although I have not been flying, it seems
to work: can get the engine to overheat in a short time by closing it,
and cool down again from that position when opening it. ;-) In cruise
conditions my aim is to have roughly the same exit area as the inlet
area, so the velocity of the outgoing air is the same as the air around
it. Both the inlet and outlet have a diffuser. All to cut drag.
Closed off the gills. Added two naca inlets on top of the cowling with
the airflow aimed directly downwards onto the cylinders. This replaces
the two round inlets in the front which I intent to use for landing lights.
Now, as my engine runs very hot, I realise that my cooling mods are not
yet very convincing. ;-) But I started with a conventional setup, and
the engine overheated in 7 minutes from a cold start. In the TCU the
parameters indicated that my engine has been running for less than 1
hour before they shipped it. At the moment I have 3 hours on it, and it
now runs considerably cooler than before. Water and oil reach almost
redline at the same moment, so I assume there is not an airlock
somewhere. Now I can idle indefinitely without touching the red lines, I
will run the engine somewhat more to see if that gets the temperatures
down further.
> I know that some or maybe most Europas have no cooling issues at all
> with a bog standard installation, so I hope that you can get that
> resolved. Of course the 914 is putting out more heat, and I don't
As long as one does not exceed 80hp, the 914 shouldn't produce any more
heat than a 912. It is essentially a 912 but with a turbo bolted onto it.
> know if you have that baffle which directs air over the cylinder
> heads.
No, unfortunately I didn't know about its existance when I bought and
installed the engine. But instead I have my naca inlets with the airflow
aimed directly on top of the cylinders. On the ground it doesn't help
much though, as there is not much prop wash in that area (but that is
also the problem with the factory inlets and the Rotax baffle).
> Is the thermostat accurate ?
I have 4 CHT's and a coolant temperature gauge. They all agree with each
other.
Frans
Message 2
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Hi All,
Apologies again for the poor call on the weather in Shobdon, it seems
we were not destined to get there this month.
All the best, Paddy
Paddy Clarke
Europa G-KIMM
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant overheating |
I come to this subject a little late but I have a 'problem' with oil heating
rather than coolant temperatures.
My 912s has always run on the cool side for the oil temperature (standard
steam gauges) and on cooler Autumn days barely gets above 60dgrees. On take
off I do climb to achieve a higher temperature to try to burn off any water
that may be in the system.
I have heard of cowl flaps being used for temperature control but do not
know of any fittments to Europas.
Can anyone help?
I do use Evans without any problems on that side.
Steve Pitt
G-SMDH 200 hours and still smiling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frans Veldman" <frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>
Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 9:37 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant overheating
> <frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>
>
> [quote:840d48a39a="kheindl"]
> I have a trigear/912S with close to 300 hours, with no previous problems
> of this nature. For my last annual I decided
> to change coolant (glycol 50/50) and oil, and all hoses and fuel lines. I
> had also made changes to improve airflow over
> the engine, at the same time reducing drag. I have since then removed
> those changes again, but this has made no difference.
> On the contrary, the temperature seems to be even higher.
> I just don't want to spill a lot of coolant all over the engine. One idea
> is to remove the coolant - I have a pump and I can
> feed the extraction hose right down to the radiator - and then refilling
> the radiator first, and then the rest.
> I will keep all informed.
> [/quote:840d48a39a]
>
> Found this post in the archive. I guess you have solved the problem by
> now, but I would be interested to hear what you had to do to fix it.
>
> Fired up my Rotax recently, and now with 3 hours of intermittent running,
> I can finally keep it running at idle without overheating (that is, with
> the temperatures stabilizing at 115 Celcius). Quite an improvement, but of
> course I'm hoping to get further than this. If you found a reason why your
> Rotax overheated, it might well be worth checking to see if my Rotax has
> the same problem.
>
> Frans
>
>
> Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant overheating |
Frans Veldman wrote:
Frans
It is generally noted that Lycosaurus type engines should never be run
at low load when breaking in, it glazes the bores so that the rings do
not bed in correctly. Rounded surface on the circumference perhaps? so
they start to pump oil? I would think the same principle applies to Rotax.
Graham
>
> Hi Karl,
>
>
>> Other changes I had made since then was to increase the air exit
>> area, close the gills, reduce the round opening on the stbd side by
>> 70%, and reduce the large naca scoop by 80%.
>>
>
> The naca scoop is only for the 914. We build a closed cabinet around it,
> where only the intake air filter resides. So the engine gets somewhat
> "pressurized" air. The 914 doesn't use the naca scoop for anything else,
> so you can safely scrap it on 912's.
>
>
>> More recently I replaced
>> the large main opening with a in-flight variable flap further down
>> and back from the original.
>>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant overheating |
Steve Pitt wrote:
> I come to this subject a little late but I have a 'problem' with oil
> heating rather than coolant temperatures.
> My 912s has always run on the cool side for the oil temperature
> (standard steam gauges) and on cooler Autumn days barely gets above
> 60dgrees. On take off I do climb to achieve a higher temperature to try
> to burn off any water that may be in the system.
> I have heard of cowl flaps being used for temperature control but do not
> know of any fittments to Europas.
> Can anyone help?
Presuming you have an XS, the idea is simple: construct some sort of
cockpit controllable flap to close off the exit area of the radiator. I
changed the bottom of the cowling for this purpose, and put the whole
exit area on hinges, so if I close off the exit area of the radiator the
drag reduces as well (and because of the smaller exit area the air gets
accelerated and produces some propulsion). To control the system there
are of course a lot of possibilities: I use a small servo similar to the
trim servo because I found that the easiest and lightest way to do it.
Remember that this flap will be in the airstream and that you need some
way to lock the flap in the desired position, a servo will do that
automatically.
Keep in mind that it is easy to reduce the cooling of the Europa, but
the challenge is to do it in such a way that you get something in
return, i.e. a reduction of cooling drag. Blocking off part of the
radiator, or using a thermostat will solve your cooling problem, but
still give you the penalty of cooling drag.
I will post some pictures soon.
Frans
Message 6
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In the archives I noticed that many of the tri-gear owners used damping
grease to eliminate shimmy without making steering difficult at the same
time.
I contacted the company recommended by some of you (newgatesimms.co.uk)
but they want me to buy 4 jars of 50 grams each (minimum order 55
Euros), while I guess I only need 10 grams or so.
If anyone else has gone the same route and has thus enough to do 20
additional nosewheels, let me know. I will happily buy some from you.
Frans
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant overheating |
Graham Singleton wrote:
> It is generally noted that Lycosaurus type engines should never be run
> at low load when breaking in, it glazes the bores so that the rings do
> not bed in correctly. Rounded surface on the circumference perhaps? so
> they start to pump oil? I would think the same principle applies to Rotax.
Yes, that concerns me as well. It is however a bit difficult to apply
full power to an engine that with idle alone overheats within 7
minutes... Now the engine starts to behave a bit better, I will select a
cold morning and try to get it to run a higher power levels.
Frans
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant overheating |
Run at 60% until hot, then shut down and wait till it is cool before
running again. the time you can run will slowly increase as the rings
break in.
(Lycoming experience, I think race bikes show the same characteristics
Graham
Frans Veldman wrote:
>> they start to pump oil? I would think the same principle applies to Rotax
>> Yes, that concerns me as well. It is however a bit difficult to apply
>> full power to an engine that with idle alone overheats within 7
>> minutes... Now the engine starts to behave a bit better, I will select a
>> cold morning and try to get it to run a higher power levels.
>>
>> Frans
>>
>>
>>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Monowheel master cylinder? |
> Installing on the stick? That would be absolutely erconomical (HOTAS
> braking) but could there be some risks lurking??? I know there are some
> ultras or so with brake lever on the stick.
Hello Raimo
There is no need to worry about lurking risks with a hand brake on the
stick. I have considerable experience using them in gliders and I can
assure you that with mono wheel aircraft, it is an ideal solution for the
braking problem.
I cannot even begin to imagine how someone would land with their fist
clasped around the brake handle on landing because it is such an unnatural
way to hold the stick but I guess anything is possible. One thing I have
noticed however, is the number of power pilots flying with differential foot
braking that land with their feet high on the pedals with resultant partial
braking. . . . especially in Cessnas. This is a terrible habit but it is
surprising how many do it.
Also, consider the number of push bikes and motor bikes in the world with
hand operated braking. If there were any risks lurking, I'm sure the method
would have been changed by now.
Best regards
Kingsley
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant overheating |
Frans,
Graham beat me to the punch so as well as agreeing with what he has said, I
would just add that before the rings are run in, there will be more blow-by
which at least will heat the oil and I imagine, generally make the engine
run hotter. Remember too, that a new engine is usually much tighter than a
used one which will also cause it to generate more heat.
Not that I can speak from experience, but I'm wondering if you might be
better off getting the aircraft into the air where you can properly load the
engine to run the rings in and at the same time generate more cooling from
the airflow. Once the rings are properly bedded in, the heating experience
on the ground might be quite different from what it is now.
I still have to go through the run-up experience so I humbly speak with
tongue in cheek.
Regards
Kingsley
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant overheating |
Kingsley Hurst wrote:
> <hurstkr@redzone.com.au>
>
> Frans,
>
> Graham beat me to the punch so as well as agreeing with what he has said,
>
> I still have to go through the run-up experience so I humbly speak
> with tongue in cheek.
>
> Regards
> Kingsley
Kingsley
First punch is not always the most effective, you put it better than I
did Kingsley! Getting wooly in my dotage :-(
regards
Graham
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant overheating |
Kingsley Hurst wrote:
> Not that I can speak from experience, but I'm wondering if you might be
> better off getting the aircraft into the air where you can properly load
> the engine to run the rings in and at the same time generate more
> cooling from the airflow. Once the rings are properly bedded in, the
> heating experience on the ground might be quite different from what it
> is now.
That would be an ideal solution. However I presume that any test pilot
will want to see this thing running at full power on the ground for
several minutes, before taking it out for a test flight. So, I have at
least get to that stage. I haven't dare to test it yet, but I would be
surprised if I can run it for two minutes at full power at the ground
without overheating it.
Frans
Message 13
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Hi All
Does anybody know of a spray carpet adhesive that wont let go the first time the
sun warms the plane up. I did use as instructed on can but plagued by edges
coming away
Roger GBWIJ
Message 14
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| Subject: | Coolant overheating |
Having carried out a number of first flights on 912 powered Europas I would
offer the following observations.
Prior to first flight I insist on carrying out at least a full power run for
2 minutes on the ground. Full power meaning 5800 RPM (throttle full open,
RPM controlled by prop pitch). If a fixed pitch prop then full throttle
will do.
Such a run achieves two things. Firstly it demonstrates the engine
performance and fuel flow adequate to get the aircraft airborne and into a
safe downwind position. Secondly it demonstrates adequate cooling to enable
flight without exceeding any limits. After shut down heat soakage from
engine to coolant may well cause the water to boil. Pressure is built up in
the cooling system and the system may well vent itself out of the water
header tank. This demonstrates operation of the pressure relief valve and
integrity of all your joints. After the run (and cooling), top the system up
and check tighten all hoses.
During such a ground run I would expect the oil and water temperatures to
get very close to or equal to limits. Subsequent flights will demonstrate
that cooling is adequate and as the engine settles in will progressively
improve. Assuming no other problems the temperatures will continue to slowly
fall over the next 50 to 100 hours of running.
I hope this provides some guidance as to what to expect on early runs and
flights.
Pete Jeffers
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans Veldman
Sent: 30 October 2009 12:27
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant overheating
Kingsley Hurst wrote:
> Not that I can speak from experience, but I'm wondering if you might be
> better off getting the aircraft into the air where you can properly load
> the engine to run the rings in and at the same time generate more
> cooling from the airflow. Once the rings are properly bedded in, the
> heating experience on the ground might be quite different from what it
> is now.
That would be an ideal solution. However I presume that any test pilot
will want to see this thing running at full power on the ground for
several minutes, before taking it out for a test flight. So, I have at
least get to that stage. I haven't dare to test it yet, but I would be
surprised if I can run it for two minutes at full power at the ground
without overheating it.
Frans
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
07:38:00
Message 15
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3M Super Trim Adhesive, #08090 Worked well for me, in Baby Blue. She
has a full carpet interior. Use a little more than the directions call
for...
Jeff - Baby Blue
Roger Lloyd wrote:
>
>
> Hi All
>
> Does anybody know of a spray carpet adhesive that wont let go the first
> time the sun warms the plane up. I did use as instructed on can but
> plagued by edges coming away
>
> Roger GBWIJ
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant overheating |
Steve,
I had the same problem until I sealed the water cooler all the way
around. Apparently that lets less air through the duct for oil cooling.
Oil temps now average about 220 F. while water temps are down slightly.
Jeff - Baby Blue
Steve Pitt wrote:
>
> I come to this subject a little late but I have a 'problem' with oil
> heating rather than coolant temperatures.
> My 912s has always run on the cool side for the oil temperature
> (standard steam gauges) and on cooler Autumn days barely gets above
> 60dgrees. On take off I do climb to achieve a higher temperature to try
> to burn off any water that may be in the system.
> I have heard of cowl flaps being used for temperature control but do not
> know of any fittments to Europas.
> Can anyone help?
> I do use Evans without any problems on that side.
> Steve Pitt
> G-SMDH 200 hours and still smiling
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frans Veldman"
> <frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 9:37 PM
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant overheating
>
>
>> <frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>
>>
>> [quote:840d48a39a="kheindl"]
>> I have a trigear/912S with close to 300 hours, with no previous
>> problems of this nature. For my last annual I decided
>> to change coolant (glycol 50/50) and oil, and all hoses and fuel
>> lines. I had also made changes to improve airflow over
>> the engine, at the same time reducing drag. I have since then removed
>> those changes again, but this has made no difference.
>> On the contrary, the temperature seems to be even higher.
>> I just don't want to spill a lot of coolant all over the engine. One
>> idea is to remove the coolant - I have a pump and I can
>> feed the extraction hose right down to the radiator - and then
>> refilling the radiator first, and then the rest.
>> I will keep all informed.
>> [/quote:840d48a39a]
>>
>> Found this post in the archive. I guess you have solved the problem by
>> now, but I would be interested to hear what you had to do to fix it.
>>
>> Fired up my Rotax recently, and now with 3 hours of intermittent
>> running, I can finally keep it running at idle without overheating
>> (that is, with the temperatures stabilizing at 115 Celcius). Quite an
>> improvement, but of course I'm hoping to get further than this. If you
>> found a reason why your Rotax overheated, it might well be worth
>> checking to see if my Rotax has the same problem.
>>
>> Frans
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Monowheel master cylinder? |
Dear Kingsley,
As I wrote that position is "absolutely erconomical " and gives a good possibility
to Hands On Throttle And Stick.
My point was only technical not physisical as follows: I see always extremely potential
and sometimes even invisible risks when modifying or installing something
to the moving parts especially to the plane`s steering components. Good and
welknown example: autopilots servo could kill many ways like jamming the controls
if installed with wrong geometry.
I only tried to say: please be very careful when installing something extra (not
from Manual) to the moving parts!
Could you please accept that point Kingsley?
Of course that (doing mods) is not a problem to pros and other experienced and
talented builders.
Anyway Europas are marketing also for the first time builders and other non-technical
human educated people like librarians or even to me! Kingsley - can you
believe - all of us are not Honeywell or RAF engineers or NASA pilots!
I give you one real example of the lurking devil which was just behind MY stick
- please be patient:
During my building phase I installed a fighter style (because I am too so childish)
stick grip. I said myself it is necessary because those buttons and switches
add safety (by HOTAS!). That was a mod - it was not in my Europa bibble.
I had to run the connection cable (thick, about 20 wires) from the stick (which
is moving!) to the seat bottom locker (which is not moving!). I made a little
hole in the seat bottom fore glass surface and run the cable through it. After
that I tested very carefully all the stick movements. Full fore, aft and sideways.
Again and again and again. I did understand there could be something wrong
but I did not realize it until...
...suddenly when full fore the stick jammed totally! I could not level the plane
anymore in my workshop! In a real life and airborne there were only seconds
and the plane would have gone to the bad side of the VNE towards mother ground.
Why: when the stick goes fore, the bottom of it goes aft. So went my stick grip
cable also, through the little hole to the seat bottom locker. When I this time
tried to pull the stick back, the cable has badly jammed to the sides of the
hole. Yes - it was rubber insulated.
Correction: I fixed the cable permanently to the lead-through hole. And hope it
will be fixed for ever.
Doing mods - even little ones - it is fascinating, but could be also dangerous.
The brake lever on the stick in itself is an ideal place for it. That is clear!
Wishes from Finland,
Raimo OH-XRT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@redzone.com.au>
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel master cylinder?
>
> > Installing on the stick? That would be absolutely erconomical (HOTAS
> > braking) but could there be some risks lurking??? I know there are some
> > ultras or so with brake lever on the stick.
>
> Hello Raimo
>
> There is no need to worry about lurking risks with a hand brake on the
> stick. I have considerable experience using them in gliders and I can
> assure you that with mono wheel aircraft, it is an ideal solution for the
> braking problem.
>
> I cannot even begin to imagine how someone would land with their fist
> clasped around the brake handle on landing because it is such an unnatural
> way to hold the stick but I guess anything is possible. One thing I have
> noticed however, is the number of power pilots flying with differential foot
> braking that land with their feet high on the pedals with resultant partial
> braking. . . . especially in Cessnas. This is a terrible habit but it is
> surprising how many do it.
>
> Also, consider the number of push bikes and motor bikes in the world with
> hand operated braking. If there were any risks lurking, I'm sure the method
> would have been changed by now.
>
> Best regards
> Kingsley
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | oil temp too low |
Hi All,
Just like Steve I have the same problem. My engine oil
temperature (912s) rarely gets above 60 degrees, except on climb out. I
have thought of fitting the "permacool remote oil thermostat" supplied
by Conair, has any one used these? two questions, 1. do they work and
2. are they easy to fit.
Danny G-c.e.r i xs tri
Message 19
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| Subject: | Oil cooler thermostat and air cooler shutter |
Steve,
I had the same issue with the oil temp being too low on my 912ULS. I also
had too low coolant and cyl. head temps during the cold season in Norway
(50/50 water/glycol).
I fitted the Rotax recommended thermostat - big improvement (see attached
photo).
I also fitted a Van's cooler shutter in front of approx. 60% of the air
cooler (see attached photos, taken before I removed the metal plates in
front of the lower part of the oil cooler when the thermostat was
installed).
40% of the air cooler is left open so that I always have air stream into the
pick-up duct behind the coolers for cabin heating (a shutter in the back of
that duct is closed in order to press warm air into the cocpit).
The following hardware was purchased from Van's Aircraft Inc. (quoting
description from invoice, 2007 prices):
- Oil cooler vent cooler shutter USD 42.50
- HW wire nut kit Bowden cable wire end USD 3.05
- CT A-740 black push pull cable black USD 12.50
You will note a hinge on top of the shutter. This is only a means a
fastening the shutter to the vent duct - I used what left-overs I had
available.
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler thermostat and air cooler shutter |
Svein,
I am not able to find more detail on the oil thermostat to understand how it
works and is plumbed in. Can you point me in the direction of details.
Thanks for your input.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sidsel og Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein@oslo.online.no>
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 6:01 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Oil cooler thermostat and air cooler shutter
>
> Steve,
>
> I had the same issue with the oil temp being too low on my 912ULS. I also
> had too low coolant and cyl. head temps during the cold season in Norway
> (50/50 water/glycol).
>
> I fitted the Rotax recommended thermostat - big improvement (see attached
> photo).
>
> I also fitted a Van's cooler shutter in front of approx. 60% of the air
> cooler (see attached photos, taken before I removed the metal plates in
> front of the lower part of the oil cooler when the thermostat was
> installed).
> 40% of the air cooler is left open so that I always have air stream into
> the
> pick-up duct behind the coolers for cabin heating (a shutter in the back
> of
> that duct is closed in order to press warm air into the cocpit).
>
> The following hardware was purchased from Van's Aircraft Inc. (quoting
> description from invoice, 2007 prices):
>
> - Oil cooler vent cooler shutter USD 42.50
> - HW wire nut kit Bowden cable wire end USD 3.05
> - CT A-740 black push pull cable black USD 12.50
>
> You will note a hinge on top of the shutter. This is only a means a
> fastening the shutter to the vent duct - I used what left-overs I had
> available.
>
> Regards,
> Svein
>
> LN-SKJ
>
>
Message 21
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Steve,
See attached.
The thermostat is sold by the Rotax dealer serving the buyer's area.
Regards,
Svein
Message 22
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| Subject: | Oil thermostat - function |
Steve,
Sorry - I forgot to address the other part of your question, how the oil
thermostat works:
The Perma-Cool thermostat will allow most of the oil to flow directly to the
engine and bypass the oil cooler when cold. Some flow is still maintained
through the oil cooler at all times to avoid super cooling of the oil in the
cooler. Once the oil warms up, the thermostat will allow the oil to flow
through the cooler and maintain a constant temperature of approximately
200oF.
During climb-out, the oil heats up to above 212 degr F /100 degr C in my
case. Remember, the thermostat prevents too much cooling but it does not
add cooling!
Regards,
Svein
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Oil thermostat - function |
I am not flying with my 914 yet, but have a Mocal oil thermostat that appears to
work similar to the one sold by Rotax.
The waymine works is the oil cooler is always plumbed in the cooling loop. There
is a bypass valve in the thermostat where it is an easier path for oil to flow
through the bypass valve than through the oil cooler itself. Mocal said it
is very hard to predict just how much will flow through the oil cooler with bypass
opened will flow, depends much on install and components used. Think remember
something like 5 or 10% may be what may flow always through oil cooler in
my install as his best guess.
Anyway if bypass failed closed, 100% of flow would be routed through oil cooler
with no oil flow restriction.
If bypass failed opened, there would be no oil flow restriction but you would only
get 5 or 10% cooling.
I think the unit I have is 180F?? They have another unit that if it failed it could
restrict oil flow. I am not sure if Rotax unit could cause oil flow restriction
if it failed.
I purchased mine from Mocal dealer in Florida.
BTW they exchanged my oil radiator that was unused for one with AN fittings instead
of wierd ones on my Europa supplied Mocal oil cooler.
Ron Parigoris
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
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