Europa-List Digest Archive

Mon 01/18/10


Total Messages Posted: 9



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:57 AM - Re: Shoot bolts (JR Gowing)
     2. 03:13 AM - Re: Shoot bolts (flyingphil2)
     3. 03:26 AM - Re: Shoot bolts (Graham Singleton)
     4. 08:23 AM - Re: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter (Frans Veldman)
     5. 09:47 AM - Re: Shoot bolts (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
     6. 12:27 PM - Re: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter (Rowland Carson)
     7. 12:27 PM - Re: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter (Rowland Carson)
     8. 12:27 PM - Re: oil pressure switch for engine hour meter (Rowland Carson)
     9. 06:07 PM - Re: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter (Frans Veldman)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:57:16 AM PST US
    From: "JR Gowing" <jrgowing@bigpond.net.au>
    Subject: Re: Shoot bolts
    Phil There were a few modifications to the mechanisms driving th e shoot bolts Maybe you should mention your kit number and date of purchase. JR (Bob)Gowing UK kit 327 do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "flyingphil2" <ptiller@lolacars.com> Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 2:39 AM Subject: Europa-List: Shoot bolts > > Hi, > To those that have gone before me ....... > I'm working on the door latches and getting the shoot bolts (DL06) > installed inside the DL07 guides. Taking previous advice I'm looking at > the dimensions in the manual and what I actually have in front of me. > > I haven't glued the guides in yet but a dry set up shows that my worst > case is on the front door bolts and at worst with the doors latched, I > have 10mm of the parallel section (20mm total) of the DL06 protruding. > Is that going to be enough? I remember reading about this on the forum > ages ago but I can't find the posting in question. > > Regards, > > Phil > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281901#281901 > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 19:35:00 -- We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. The Professional version does not have this message


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:13:02 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Shoot bolts
    From: "flyingphil2" <ptiller@lolacars.com>
    Hi, My kit has an XS fuselage but I have all the parts to make it up to the current production spec (ie flat bar etc) and also have been fitting the cockpit width mod. Regardless of all that, I guess the length of protrusion of the shoot bolts would remain the same across all aircraft. I guess my question is 'what is safe' as I know several doors have been lost in the past due to the bolts not closing securely. Regards, Phil Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282040#282040


    Message 3


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    Time: 03:26:08 AM PST US
    From: Graham Singleton <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: Shoot bolts
    Phil also worth a serious look at Paul McAllister's shoot bolts but I wouldn't do the third bolt, it weakens the bottom rail / sill too much, go with a simple latch.that uses the flexibility of the door to latch. Get a second set of bushes and put those into the fuselage door frame Graham On 18/01/2010 10:55, JR Gowing wrote: > > Phil > There were a few modifications to the mechanisms driving th e shoot bolts > Maybe you should mention your kit number and date of purchase. > JR (Bob)Gowing UK kit 327 > > do not archive > ----- Original Message ----- From: "flyingphil2" <ptiller@lolacars.com> > To: <europa-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 2:39 AM


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:23:52 AM PST US
    From: Frans Veldman <frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>
    Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter
    Maybe I'm stating the obvious, but you can of course also use the alternator warning light for registering engine hours. True, if the alternator fails the hobbs will stop, but without alternator it won't take long before the hobbs stops anyway. ;-) Also, the same logic could be applied to using the oil pressure as source for the hobbs. Using an oil pressure switch is just introducing another part with the potential of leaking, getting loose, etc. And it also comes with a weight penalty. And costs some money. The alternator warning light is free, without risk or weight penalty. I can't really see the benfit of an oil pressure switch for a non-mission-critical part like a hobbs... And no, you don't need a relay for it to hook up the hobbs to the alternator warning light. Just put the hobbs in series with the bulb, and connect the alternator warning output to the joint between bulb and hobbs. The other end of the hobbs should go to the opposite part of the power supply (that is, if the bulb is connected to ground, the hobbs should go to the 12V, if the bulb is connected to 12V, hobbs to ground. Yep, I don't remember whether the warning light is switched to 12V or ground, am too lazy to look it up. ;-) ). The bottom line is that the bulb is used to complete the circuit of the hobbs. As the hobbs uses far less power than the bulb, the bulb won't lit, and the hobbs will see the full voltage. When the alternator light comes on, the hobbs will now not get any voltage difference accross its terminals, and thus stops counting. I certainly would have done it this way, but I already have an engine hour hobbs in the Smart prop controller. Frans


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:47:30 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Shoot bolts
    From: rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us
    Hi Graham "I wouldn't do the third bolt, it weakens the bottom rail / sill too much, go with a simple latch.that uses the flexibility of the door to latch. Get a second set of bushes and put those into the fuselage door frame" I put a 3/16" pin on door frame and striker plate on door, simple and works well.: http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=29082&g2_page=3 I left lift strut in original position and installed similar pin and striker to hold upper aft part of door in shape. Ron Parigoris


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:27:53 PM PST US
    From: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
    Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter
    At 2010-01-18 17:16 +0100 Frans Veldman wrote: >you can of course also use the >alternator warning light for registering engine hours Frans - thanks for yet another way to skin a cat! I had been looking at the wiring diagram and wondering why the wires to the alternator warning light were not protected by a fuse, but the penny didn't drop that they could be put to other uses. >I don't remember whether the warning light is switched to 12V or >ground, am too lazy to look it up One end of the warning lamp is connected to the C terminal of the regulator (also commoned with R & +B) so that better be at 12V when the donkey is running. The other side of the lamp goes to the L terminal which presumably is normally floating, open circuit (or even +12V?) but drops to 0V when things go pear-shaped. The diagram calls out a 30A slo-blo fuse to protect the 12AWG wire leaving the C, R, +B terminals. However, there is NO protection for the 20AWG wire leaving the same spot and going through the firewall to the alternator warning lamp. I presume the wire itself is intended to provide the smoke if it gets chafed to ground at the firewall! I think I will be fitting a fuse. regards Rowland -- | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | <rowil@clara.net> http://home.clara.net/rowil/ | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson


    Message 7


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    Time: 12:27:53 PM PST US
    From: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
    Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter
    At 2010-01-17 13:25 -0500 Troy Maynor wrote: >here is the switch I used on mine and it works well. Oil pressure >idiot light that also says "Hey dummy you forgot to turn off your >master switch", and runs the Hobbs meter when the engine starts Troy - thanks for the link. I could probably get that from Airworld as he does other B&C stuff. However, it's 1/8" NPT so I'd have to come up with an adaptor for the M10 fine thread on the oil pump. I'm leaning towards the vacuum switch suggested by Ivor as it needs no further firewall penetration, and plumbing it in near the hourmeter should be easy. regards Rowland -- | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | <rowil@clara.net> http://home.clara.net/rowil/ | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson


    Message 8


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    Time: 12:27:53 PM PST US
    From: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
    Subject: Re: oil pressure switch for engine hour meter
    At 2010-01-15 09:17 +0000 Roger Mills wrote: >An alternative idea is to use a fuel pressure switch (Bosch do a >suitable part). It fits in your fuel line easily and also provides >warning of fuel pressure problems - something you need unless you've >already installed a guage Roger - thanks for the thought. I do have a fuel pressure sensor & gauge in the pile of panel goodies, but am a bit away from installing it yet. regards Rowland -- | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | <rowil@clara.net> http://home.clara.net/rowil/ | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:07:56 PM PST US
    From: Frans Veldman <frans@privatepilots.nl>
    Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter
    On 01/18/2010 09:25 PM, Rowland Carson wrote: > One end of the warning lamp is connected to the C terminal of the > regulator (also commoned with R & +B) so that better be at 12V when the > donkey is running. The other side of the lamp goes to the L terminal > which presumably is normally floating, open circuit (or even +12V?) but > drops to 0V when things go pear-shaped. Well, you don't have to connect the lamp to the C terminal, any 12V connection would be fine. I have mine connected behind the master switch, and behind the panel fuse. The only wire going to the alternator controller is the L wire, which doesn't need a fuse at all. About the hobbs: Connect the + of the hobbs to the L wire (either end would be fine, but the end near the bulb would be practical). Connect the - of the hobbs to ground. This will cause the hobbs to run as soon as the master switch is on, unless the bulb lights up. So, it will effectively count the engine hours. That's really all there is to it. No need for oil pressure switches or other gadgets. > The diagram calls out a 30A slo-blo fuse to protect the 12AWG wire > leaving the C, R, +B terminals. However, there is NO protection for the > 20AWG wire leaving the same spot and going through the firewall to the > alternator warning lamp. No, because you are supposed to connect it behind the fuse. The 12AWG wire is connected to the C terminal, so instead of connecting the lamp to the C terminal directly, you could as well use the other end of the 12AWG wire. 12 Volts is 12 Volts after all. ;-) In fact, any 12 V line would serve the same purpose. You should indeed not connect any unfused wire to the C,R or B terminals! Hope this is clear now. Frans




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