Europa-List Digest Archive

Tue 01/19/10


Total Messages Posted: 4



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 11:32 AM - Re: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter (Raimo Toivio)
     2. 11:49 AM - Re: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter (Frans Veldman)
     3. 11:59 AM - Cold starting 912S (Richard Iddon)
     4. 05:23 PM - Re: Re: Shoot bolts (Bud Yerly)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 11:32:42 AM PST US
    From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
    Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter
    How about connecting it to the radio power line? So that is then a radio hobbs in fact. We normally always start the engine first and then a while after switch radios on. Radios off and then engine quit vice versa. That is a rule for radio safe. During engine tests and trial runs we do not wanna maybe count engine hours at all. When there is an intention to fly, radios are always on I assume. Bad side: during radio tests only you count also engine hours. But, how often you do make radio tests only (w/o engine running)? In my case in the hobbsmeter there are 202,9 hours logged and in the logbook there are 154,1 pure flight hrs. The difference between those numbers are mostly because taxiing and those exciting early taxi tests (and radio on!). Other possibilities: hobbs is on when gyros and/or FMS are on. If I had liked to count only pure flight hours I would have connected it to the main gears retracted position micro switch. In the other hand; at least GPS and autopilot (Trio) are logging pure flight hours so that was not an option for me. That is real flying when the gear(s) is(are) up, is not it? Unfortunately only possible for monos...;) To service my engine I use flight hours (with high revs) - not engine hours. That is a fair play! Raimo from Finland OH-XRT grounded for an annual service and some extra which will make it even heavier again. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frans Veldman" <frans@privatepilots.nl> Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 4:03 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter > > On 01/18/2010 09:25 PM, Rowland Carson wrote: > > > One end of the warning lamp is connected to the C terminal of the > > regulator (also commoned with R & +B) so that better be at 12V when the > > donkey is running. The other side of the lamp goes to the L terminal > > which presumably is normally floating, open circuit (or even +12V?) but > > drops to 0V when things go pear-shaped. > > Well, you don't have to connect the lamp to the C terminal, any 12V > connection would be fine. I have mine connected behind the master > switch, and behind the panel fuse. The only wire going to the alternator > controller is the L wire, which doesn't need a fuse at all. > > About the hobbs: Connect the + of the hobbs to the L wire (either end > would be fine, but the end near the bulb would be practical). Connect > the - of the hobbs to ground. > This will cause the hobbs to run as soon as the master switch is on, > unless the bulb lights up. So, it will effectively count the engine hours. > > That's really all there is to it. No need for oil pressure switches or > other gadgets. > > > The diagram calls out a 30A slo-blo fuse to protect the 12AWG wire > > leaving the C, R, +B terminals. However, there is NO protection for the > > 20AWG wire leaving the same spot and going through the firewall to the > > alternator warning lamp. > > No, because you are supposed to connect it behind the fuse. The 12AWG > wire is connected to the C terminal, so instead of connecting the lamp > to the C terminal directly, you could as well use the other end of the > 12AWG wire. 12 Volts is 12 Volts after all. ;-) In fact, any 12 V line > would serve the same purpose. > You should indeed not connect any unfused wire to the C,R or B terminals! > > Hope this is clear now. > > Frans > > > > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 11:49:23 AM PST US
    From: Frans Veldman <frans@paardnatuurlijk.nl>
    Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Switch for engine hourmeter
    On 01/19/2010 08:31 PM, Raimo Toivio wrote: > If I had liked to count only pure flight hours I would have connected > it to the main gears retracted position micro switch. In the other > hand; at least GPS and autopilot (Trio) are logging pure flight hours > so that was not an option for me. I have my "flight-hobbs" connected to a pressure switch, hooked up to the secondary pitot tube (which also feeds the SmartASS talking airspeed indicator). The pressure switch is set in such a way that it closes a switch when the speed reaches 42 knots. I guess this is close enough to really register flight hours (with in mind the option to use the Europa as a motor-glider, so flight hours might differ substantially from engine hours). > To service my engine I use flight hours (with high revs) - not engine > hours. That is a fair play! For the mandatory registration, you are allowed to use flight hours. For all engine run-ups in your backyard, you don't need to register anything. Although I unofficially keep an eye on the actal engine hours, and just perform some maintenance accordingly, earlier than officially required with regard to the flight hours. Frans


    Message 3


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    Time: 11:59:11 AM PST US
    From: "Richard Iddon" <riddon@sent.com>
    Subject: Cold starting 912S
    As I was the instigator of the cold starting thread, I am pleased to report that I seem to have solved the problem following suggestions made by several contributors. I have fitted a start button in addition to the key switch so that I can now start on one mag. I also replaced my six year old gel battery, even though it was still showing 12.5 volts, with a shiny new Odyssey. Now I turn the prop through a number of blades until the oil gurgles then start on one mag. Engine starts instantly with no kick back. Thanks for all the feed back. Richard Iddon G-RIXS


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:23:50 PM PST US
    From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Shoot bolts
    Phil, I have built over 12 sets of doors. They all work using the current manual. In my opinion doors come off because of improper latching or due to a poor fitting door. I come from a family of contractors and master craftsmen. I had a lot of experience with doors. No latch will work until the door fits and operates correctly first. Here are some of my techniques for you to consider when following the manual. 1. Make the door fit the rebate precisely. No bows at the bottom or hard pushes to get them into the rebate. As my friend Carl Reichle says "snick". I do heat the doors and massage them into shape before doing any fitting of hardware. 2. Make everything in the mechanism work flawlessly smooth on the bench. It takes time. Drill the 1/8 inch holes for keying in the plate. The holes I do look like the manual and will be cleco alignment holes later. 3. Install the mechanism in the door and relieve the inside of the door glue until it is in tight. Even make a dimple for the weld points. Make sure the handle is oriented parallel to the door bottom and all clears. Draw a line on the door. (Measure the spot for the hole for the handle and believe it or not I have always been within 1mm of that point.) I use clecos to pull the steel up hard and make sure I have plenty of the 5/8 tube sticking through the door which will allow the outer handle to clear the glass latter on. Once it is perfectly aligned, disassemble and Redux in the plate, install clecos through the 1/8 inch holes in the door and clean up the face well. If you are worried about the handle alignment reinstall it, tweak it in place and allow to cure. 4. Make your rods at this time but make them long and only finish the inner ends of the door bars or rods using either the round stock or flat bar, your choice. Personally I make the ends of the round rods with a longer flat than called for for later trimming. 5. Lay the rods on the outside of the door in the latched position and look how the rods lay on the outside of the door. Bend the rods to the door shape and bend the ends to be aligned with the door side and handle mechanism. Rough cut the holes in the door where the manual says for the guides but don't glue them yet. 6. Install the rods with 525 10R8 bolts instead of roll pins ( I make a modified 525 10R10 with a button head and shorten the threads to fit in for the final) and ensure they work flawlessly through their rough holes, check the rods are bent and they do not rub against the inside of the door or bind against the mechanism. The rod ends need to exit aligned perpendicular to the door and parallel to its bottom. Then insert the guide and check again. Hopefully a little of the bar will be sticking out. 7. Set the guides in and check that the door will fit the rebate with the guide in. Some doors need a little rebate cut in for the flange to fit perfectly. A dremel tool with a 1/2 inch Permagrit barrel works best for this. Make sure the alignment is dead square. If you want, now tack with 5 min or superglue the guide. When you fit the door in the rebate, you will see that the door guide in the fuselage needs to be rebated in to be aligned perfectly level and square with the door guide. Important: Your rod length and door shoot bolt length aren't fixed yet. The latch depends on how the door fits. How tight the distance is between the door guide and the fuselage guide. 8. With the door guides tacked in, now put your shoot bolt on the rod end and mark the end of the rod where the end of the shoot bolt would be even with the outer end of the guide. Once this length is marked, disassemble and lay the shoot bolt against the rod and figure where to drill the hole to fix the shoot bolt to the rod. This method will insure the shoot bolt is extended to the maximum possible when the latch is in the closed position. Most of the time I get 1/2 of an inch. No less than 3/8 please. 9. Now reinstall the rod and shoot bolt. Trim the rod end with a file until its motion in the guide clears. How I do this is I take the rod and shoot bolt assembly and deflect the shoot bolt until the end of the rod sticks up above the shoot bolt. I use my burnishing wheel but a file will take care of the high spot where it will bind. Then I take a dremel with a cutoff wheel and grind the ends of the roll pin down until it all slides through the guide "snick". 10. Now crack the guide free and assemble the rods into the door and glue in the guides in absolutely perpendicular to the ends of the doors and straight. Use a straight bar along the door to make sure of alignment. Let cure. Now I install the door and hinges per the manual using the supplied items. If the door ever opens I want it gone without tearing up the plane. Check the hinge area in the plane is not thin. Some planes only had a couple plies by mistake. Add only if you can see through the glass/gelcoat and there is only two layers. A flashlight is all that's needed. When the door is hinged, then I set my shoot bolt guides per the manual. Once the hole in the fuselage is just the size of the bolt, I open it up for the guide. I set the distance between the guides by using a thin AN960 8-16L 1/2 inch washer for clearance between the two guides. I operate the door mechanism until alignment is perfect. Rebate the fuselage as required. Yes I have the two shoot bolt guides very close to one another. But the door is fit so well that it falls into the small slot. It helps when closing the door, because if the door is being bent during closure, it is obvious if the door hits the shoot bolt guide. But I do cheat and add redux around the flange to make a smooth transition that is pleasing to the eye. Now when it cures the door handle should thunk by its spring alone to the fully locked position. You will have 1/2 inch of guide sticking into the fuselage. The only force necessary to close the door will be slight downward pressure to compress the door seal. It takes 40 hours to do nice doors...It's an airplane. Doors and canopies are a tough job, but it is the part that gets used over and over. I have never had my shirt sleeve pulled, a door bulged or feared one of my installations. It just takes time. I have added microswitches to contact the door bolts when in the closed position, or made a hole in the upholstery so one can visually see the bolt installed. Your choice. Hope this didn't put you to sleep or confuse you. Call if you need clarification. Bud Yerly CFC/Europa ----- Original Message ----- From: flyingphil2<mailto:ptiller@lolacars.com> To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 6:12 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Shoot bolts <ptiller@lolacars.com<mailto:ptiller@lolacars.com>> Hi, My kit has an XS fuselage but I have all the parts to make it up to the current production spec (ie flat bar etc) and also have been fitting the cockpit width mod. Regardless of all that, I guess the length of protrusion of the shoot bolts would remain the same across all aircraft. I guess my question is 'what is safe' as I know several doors have been lost in the past due to the bolts not closing securely. Regards, Phil Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282040#282040<http://forums .matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282040#282040> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi on>




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