Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:54 AM - Re: Re: 912S installation pictures (mau11)
2. 03:15 AM - Re: wheel removal (danny shepherd)
3. 12:10 PM - Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts (rampil)
4. 12:18 PM - Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts (rampil)
5. 12:52 PM - Re: Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts (Europa List)
6. 12:54 PM - Max RPM (Troy Maynor)
7. 01:02 PM - Re: How to ground rempte mounted VDO oil pressure gauge. (Robert Borger)
8. 01:34 PM - Re: Max RPM (Robert Borger)
9. 02:40 PM - Re: {Spam?} Max RPM (Pete Lawless)
10. 04:16 PM - Re: Max RPM (Bud Yerly)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 912S installation pictures |
X-mailer: Foxmail 6, 15, 201, 22 [cn]
Thanks Ira,
I am interested to see the upper part of the engine and connection to the cooling
air baffle if you have pictures??
Thankd
21-02-2010
mau11
De : rampil
Date/heure : 16-02-2010 15:24:37
A : europa-list
Cc :
Sujet : Europa-List: Re: 912S installation pictures
I am not certain I understand what you are looking for.
In my more or less standard factory design installation of my 912s
there is only the aluminum dust from the lower cowl large entrance.
In my case I have modified this radiator cooling flow by bolting a
rectangular aluminum plate to the bottom of the lowest radiator forward,
horizontally to the point where the plate (about 50 thou) touches the floor
of the duct, i.e., the bottom cowl. The purpose of the flat is to force
the airflow through the radiators instead of through the existing gap
between the radiators and the cowl.
Rotax has a "cooling baffle" which is applied to the top of the engine
and is designed to redirect air flow from the frontal air apertures down
through the cylinder cooling fins. It does not connect to the bottom duct,
unless someone has gone experimental. The baffle is probably
not useful for 912s installation which tend not to overheat in Europa's,
but rather for the 914 which is otherwise prone to overheating.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286639#286639
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: wheel removal |
Remi,
Yes, I agree with you, a bit of "common sense" would be nice
especially in my case.
My first annual is due on the 22/03/10, due to the fact that I can't fly
in the summer from June to October be course I have a seasonal business
I have only managed to do 26hrs. Obviously the bearings don't need
greasing, but my inspector insists on going by "the book" :-( .
Cheers Danny G-ceri
Ps remember this is aviation they have to make it hard for us !!!
Remi Guerner wrote:
> <<<<<<<<<< remove the wheels on my tri gear to grease them for the
> annual. >>>>>>>
>
> Danny,
>
> I suppose you want to grease the ball bearings, right?
>
> My question is: why is it recommanded by most aircraft manufacturers
> to grease wheel ball bearings every year, which for a typical 100
> hours/100 take-offs/100 landings represents only about 200 rolling
> kilometers (125 miles) while I can drive my car 1000 times more than
> that distance without ever having to service the bearings ?
>
> Remi Guerner
> F-PGKL
> *
>
>
> *
Message 3
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| Subject: | Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts |
Hi All,
I found this recent document on the US NTSB website.
It seems Liberty has had a few (6) A/C lose doors in flight, just like
the early Europas (at least I have not heard of a door flying off
in flight in several years).
These episodes,the NTSB says were all apparently due to improper
shoot bolt deployment into the rear socket and failure to check
by crew.
Since the Europa latch system is quite similar, we may have a lesson
to learn here at someone else's expense!
Does anyone have any comment?
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287527#287527
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/libertysbonreardoorlatchpin_392.pdf
Message 4
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| Subject: | Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts |
Hi All,
I found this recent document on the US NTSB website.
It seems Liberty has had a few (6) A/C lose doors in flight, just like
the early Europas (at least I have not heard of a door flying off
in flight in several years).
These episodes,the NTSB says were all apparently due to improper
shoot bolt deployment into the rear socket and failure to check
by crew.
Since the Europa latch system is quite similar, we may have a lesson
to learn here at someone else's expense!
Does anyone have any comment?
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287530#287530
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/libertysbonreardoorlatchpin_392.pdf
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts |
I learned to fly in a Piper Tomahawk which used a similar system to secure
the doors. It was pounded into my head to check both doors very carefully
before taking of. On my long solo cross country I left Harrisburg
International and as I turned to leave the pattern, I noticed more noise
than usual. Sure enough the rear shoot bolt on my side was not engaged. I
slowed to 10 knots above stall and trimed for level flight as instructed and
was able to correctly shut the door. I was prepared to request permission
and land back at Harrisburg had I not been successful because of the dire
warnings from my instructor about not bringing the complete airplane home.
Learning a lesson without dire consequences is most preferable. Learning
from others mistakes is even better for you.
Vaughn Teegarden
A191 back in the building stage
----- Original Message -----
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 15:16
Subject: Europa-List: Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts
>
> Hi All,
>
> I found this recent document on the US NTSB website.
>
> It seems Liberty has had a few (6) A/C lose doors in flight, just like
> the early Europas (at least I have not heard of a door flying off
> in flight in several years).
>
> These episodes,the NTSB says were all apparently due to improper
> shoot bolt deployment into the rear socket and failure to check
> by crew.
>
> Since the Europa latch system is quite similar, we may have a lesson
> to learn here at someone else's expense!
>
> Does anyone have any comment?
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287530#287530
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/libertysbonreardoorlatchpin_392.pdf
>
>
>
Message 6
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Hi All,
Yesterday I took the plane out of the garage and rigged it. Started the
engine, let it warm up, and did the pneumatic carb balancing. They were
within 1/2 in.Hg of each other at 3k rpm when I proclaimed it good and
shut it down. Is this close enough? It ran fairly smooth from 3k up to
5k. The gages were not so closely matched at around 2k rpm. Just
wondering if this is normal.
When all the hoses were put back in place and vacuum gages removed,
plane tied down securely I did a 2 minute run at max rpm, simulating a
climb to safe landing altitude. All went well at first. However, I only
got 5,200 rpm max. The max rpm was reached without the lever being all
the way forward. The last inch or so of lever travel produced no change.
And, no the cables were not being pushed too far. When the lever stops
in the cockpit, the carb lever just touches the stop. I have a 912S
with the ground adjustable Warp Drive prop set at 17 degrees as per
manual. The analog tach is made by Mitchell and is made for Rotax. Will
the rpm go as high as 5800 when the plane is cut loose or do I need to
flatten the pitch to 16 degrees and try it again?
Thanks again crew.
Troy
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: How to ground rempte mounted VDO oil pressure gauge. |
Hi Ron,
I took some pics of the remote oil pressure sender yesterday while I was doing
the firewall aft part of the annual.
Perhaps they will help:
BTW, that's not a third black wire, it's a shadow of the signal wire.
The three washers provide a nice tight clamping of the sensor and still allow the
NPT threads of coupling to seal properly.
I hope this helps.
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
Aircraft Flying!
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
On Feb 17, 2010, at 9:12, rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:
> Hi Bob
>
> Thx. for the reply. How is the sender electrically connected, and how is the
sender mechiasnically mounted to your bracket?
> Thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
> "> I mounted my oil pressure sensor on a piece of aluminum angle that was
> > bolted to the top of the passenger foot well. Ran a 20 ga black wire from
> > one of the mounting bolts up to the firewall ground block. 20 ga is way
> > overkill, but it's what I had on hand and the 0.1 oz of extra weight
> > didn't seem like too great a penalty."
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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Troy,
According to the Europa 912 Installation manual, Chapter 10. Propeller
and Spinner, page 10-2 March 2009, last paragraph at the bottom of the
page (emphasis is added):
For the Rotax 912 engine, with the Warp Drive 62=94 diameter propeller
with tapered blades, it is suggested that you set the propeller to 17=B0
pitch angle initially, measured at the tip. For the Rotax 912S engine,
with the Warp Drive 64=94 diameter propeller with non-tapered blades,
set the pitch initially to 19o. Whichever fixed pitch or ground
adjustable propeller is fitted, when the aircraft is stationary and the
engine is at wide open throttle (WOT) you should see a minimum of
5200rpm.The blade angle referred to is the angle between the propeller=92s
rotational plane and the flat rear surface of the blade at the
propeller tip. Ensure that all blades are within 1/4=B0 of each other.
So, I'd say you were spot on and ready to go. You shouldn't see 5800
rpm till you are approaching max speed.
Check six,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
Aircraft Flying!
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
On Feb 21, 2010, at 14:24, Troy Maynor wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Yesterday I took the plane out of the garage and rigged it. Started
the engine, let it warm up, and did the pneumatic carb balancing. They
were within 1/2 in.Hg of each other at 3k rpm when I proclaimed it good
and shut it down. Is this close enough? It ran fairly smooth from 3k up
to 5k. The gages were not so closely matched at around 2k rpm. Just
wondering if this is normal.
>
> When all the hoses were put back in place and vacuum gages removed,
plane tied down securely I did a 2 minute run at max rpm, simulating a
climb to safe landing altitude. All went well at first. However, I only
got 5,200 rpm max. The max rpm was reached without the lever being all
the way forward. The last inch or so of lever travel produced no change.
And, no the cables were not being pushed too far. When the lever stops
in the cockpit, the carb lever just touches the stop. I have a 912S
with the ground adjustable Warp Drive prop set at 17 degrees as per
manual. The analog tach is made by Mitchell and is made for Rotax. Will
the rpm go as high as 5800 when the plane is cut loose or do I need to
flatten the pitch to 16 degrees and try it again?
> Thanks again crew.
> Troy
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Evening Troy
If you have not already done so I should check the accuracy of the rev
counter with an optical gauge.
Regards
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Troy Maynor
Sent: 21 February 2010 20:25
Subject: {Spam?} Europa-List: Max RPM
Hi All,
Yesterday I took the plane out of the garage and rigged it. Started the
engine, let it warm up, and did the pneumatic carb balancing. They were
within 1/2 in.Hg of each other at 3k rpm when I proclaimed it good and
shut
it down. Is this close enough? It ran fairly smooth from 3k up to 5k.
The
gages were not so closely matched at around 2k rpm. Just wondering if
this
is normal.
When all the hoses were put back in place and vacuum gages removed,
plane
tied down securely I did a 2 minute run at max rpm, simulating a climb
to
safe landing altitude. All went well at first. However, I only got 5,200
rpm
max. The max rpm was reached without the lever being all the way
forward.
The last inch or so of lever travel produced no change. And, no the
cables
were not being pushed too far. When the lever stops in the cockpit, the
carb
lever just touches the stop. I have a 912S with the ground adjustable
Warp
Drive prop set at 17 degrees as per manual. The analog tach is made by
Mitchell and is made for Rotax. Will the rpm go as high as 5800 when the
plane is cut loose or do I need to flatten the pitch to 16 degrees and
try
it again?
Thanks again crew.
Troy
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Message 10
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Troy,
As for your prop/carbs/throttle comments:
Your OK at 5200 RPM static with your prop setting. I wouldn't screw
with it. 5200 is right on with the Rotax recommendations also. That
bit of extra throttle still available most likely means you are "propped
out". That is, the prop has absorbed all the torque the engine can
produce. Static RPM does vary with air density and 5200 RPM static will
allow full power up to about 90 KIAS before the prop unloads to the
engine max of 5800 RPM.
To expand on the build manual, normally, with the throttle idle in the
cockpit each carb should be hard at its stop (both cables tight). At
full, each should just hit the stop at the same time. If not, work on
your cables. You are smart in keeping track of the throttle. I have
seen some setups able to move a 1/2 inch or so from the throttle stop on
the carb until the throttle in the cockpit hits its stop, which is
bending the cables which will cause trouble in the long run. Like you,
I adjust full throttle so as the cockpit throttle lever only barely
allows the cable to bow slightly as the carbs hit their full forward
stop.
As for the carbs, if it runs great at full power / static at 5200,
great. If it is stumbling or rough sounding at full power, you need to
investigate. Changing plugs does make a difference (especially if you
have a turbo that throws a 1/2 cup of oil on start). I have found most
912S/914 have a rough spot between 2500 and 3500 as it is touchy to get
a cable dual carb setup spot on. At full power it should be smooth
sounding. 1/2 inch of MP is not bad, but if it is consistent as you
build rpm, you will hear a stumble and may need to adjust one of your
cables.
My technique when doing a pneumatic carb check, is to note that my carb
pressures are dead even from full rpm, down to 4000. I accept a stumble
from 2500-3500. I want it smooth at 4000 for the ignition check. If
the idle is bad and the carbs were torn apart and the factory idle
changed, I will adjust the idle setting on the carbs IAW the Rotax line
maintenance manual until it evens out at idle. I only did this once
(three hours of trial and error and two calls to Kerry at Lockwood) as
normally if the factory setting isn't changed during a carb float bowl
and rubber gasket cleanup, no further adjustment is necessary except at
the cable. Once the idle is solid, go up through the RPM ranges again.
The Rotax recommended procedure is available as a DVD/CD video from your
Rotax dealer (I think you may have to pay a pretty penny for it though)
or if you took a Rotax repairman class, it is sometimes a handout. If
you are a registered owner you can download the manuals...Ira told me
that Rotax is now charging for this service also (surprise).
If you take the time, you can get it to run smooth throughout the range.
My old POS 914 is running super smooth now. At least until the stator
went out (defective stator). Ah, the joys of aircraft ownership.
Fly Safe,
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations.
----- Original Message -----
From: Troy Maynor<mailto:wingnut54@charter.net>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 3:24 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Max RPM
Hi All,
Yesterday I took the plane out of the garage and rigged it. Started
the engine, let it warm up, and did the pneumatic carb balancing. They
were within 1/2 in.Hg of each other at 3k rpm when I proclaimed it good
and shut it down. Is this close enough? It ran fairly smooth from 3k up
to 5k. The gages were not so closely matched at around 2k rpm. Just
wondering if this is normal.
When all the hoses were put back in place and vacuum gages removed,
plane tied down securely I did a 2 minute run at max rpm, simulating a
climb to safe landing altitude. All went well at first. However, I only
got 5,200 rpm max. The max rpm was reached without the lever being all
the way forward. The last inch or so of lever travel produced no change.
And, no the cables were not being pushed too far. When the lever stops
in the cockpit, the carb lever just touches the stop. I have a 912S
with the ground adjustable Warp Drive prop set at 17 degrees as per
manual. The analog tach is made by Mitchell and is made for Rotax. Will
the rpm go as high as 5800 when the plane is cut loose or do I need to
flatten the pitch to 16 degrees and try it again?
Thanks again crew.
Troy
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avigator?Europa-List>
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