Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:09 AM - Re: Full Panel (Fred Klein)
2. 10:09 AM - Re: Door hinges to fuselage (William Daniell)
3. 12:02 PM - Re: Full Panel ()
4. 02:34 PM - Only partly off topic.... (Fergus Kyle)
5. 02:34 PM - installing thedoor seal gasket (Fergus Kyle)
6. 03:39 PM - Re: Full Panel (Paul McAllister)
7. 10:01 PM - Re: installing thedoor seal gasket (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
Message 1
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On Mar 24, 2010, at 10:20 AM, Paul McAllister wrote:
> The challenge I have with the factory panel is more around internal
> volume, in particular its depth rather than the external area.
Paul,
I'm wondering if the depth issue is solved by floating the panel on
those shock-mount studs with the rubber spacer of approx. 3/4",
removing of course the back of the instrument panel module except in
the areas where it is reinforced and acts as a flange for the studs?
Fred
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Door hinges to fuselage |
For those who have not reached this point
What I have ended up doing which might be of use to others is filling
the rebate with flox covering with cling film and then putting the doors
on fitted correctly. this gives you a spacer of exactly the right size
with - added bonus- bumps where the screw holes should go. You then fit
the door with one of the hinge screws missing and using the hole in the
door tang and the hinge as a guide drill through the fuselage to get the
fuze hinge bolt connected. you have to use a countersunk csk screw
instead of the recommended item.
it seems a little easier than the rapid expoy procedure in the manual.
Oh and yes as Jim and everyone else says the gazillion times on and off
to ensure a decent fit before you drill anything
will
jimpuglise@comcast.net wrote:
>
> Will-
>
>
>
> I think most of us required shims under the hinges to set the door
> even with the fuselage top. I find it easiest to use BID in the hinge
> rebate to get the spacing right. By doing so, you get some additional
> "bang for your buck" in that the BID adds reinforcement to the hinge
> bed, as well as being able to closely control the thickness of the
> shim by the number of layers of BID applied. I followed the same
> practice with my rudder hinges. As far as the shot bolts, I found the
> procedure in the manual worked fine. I installed the hinges first,
> then the bolts in the doors, then put a little paint on the end of the
> shot bolt, held the door closed, closed the latch to mark the door
> rebates on the fuselage, then drilled and filed the fuselage until the
> bushings were slightly free floating in the hole when the door was
> closed with the bolt inserted. I then heavily greased the shot bolts,
> closed the door and REDUXed the bushings. It worked just fine.
> Getting the hinge rebates and the hinge tangs fit correctly was a real
> nuisance. I must have had the doors on and off 50 times.
>
>
>
> Jim Puglise A-283
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co>
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 9:00:31 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Europa-List: Door hinges to fuselage
>
> Dear all
>
> My door hinges require a spacer of 3mm - presumably - ply and -
> presumably - glassed in on the fuselage (bottom hinge) in order to fit
> properly...my question was is this normal and if so where in the
> manual was the instruction to do this?
>
> Will
>
>
> *
>
> arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 3
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That's exactly what I did, I used 1 1/2 cotton reel rubber mounts to stand off
the instrument panel, It gives enough space to fit a Garnin SL30 and GTX327 and
Dynon EFIS/EMS with room to spare, (just :-)
Ivor
G-IVER
---- Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com> wrote:
>
>
> On Mar 24, 2010, at 10:20 AM, Paul McAllister wrote:
>
> > The challenge I have with the factory panel is more around internal
> > volume, in particular its depth rather than the external area.
>
> Paul,
>
> I'm wondering if the depth issue is solved by floating the panel on
> those shock-mount studs with the rubber spacer of approx. 3/4",
> removing of course the back of the instrument panel module except in
> the areas where it is reinforced and acts as a flange for the studs?
>
> Fred
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Only partly off topic.... |
I quote:
"Hi Bob,
It means that UK Public Transport Operators have an exemption to operate
with the older altimeters that are not approved under JAR OPS.
The altimeters that comply with ICAO and JAR OPS 1 are the counter
drum-pointer display which display digital altitude with the resolution of
100ft.
What does it mean to you.......
Nothing,
You are not public transport operating under an Air Operators Certificate.
You do not operate your aircraft under JAR OPS...... there's lucky.
Regards, Mike"
May I be the first to vote Mike Parkin as ideal applicant for both
Prime Minister of Canada, Premier of the Province of Ontario, Regional
Chairman of Halton and Mayor of Burlington - our FOUR levels of
"government".
Ferg
now Europa Classic registering as C-FFGG
Message 5
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| Subject: | installing thedoor seal gasket |
In the process of installing the gasket I have run into the very
resistant qualities of this item at the sharp corners of the door. I tried
tapping the "claws" onto the edge but it tries to rotate out before I can
convert its bad behaviour into submission.
What did you do - especially at the corners?
Happy landings
Ferg
Message 6
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Fred,
Yes I did space mine out from the fire wall by about 20mm and that sure
helped, but if I was to do it over again I would make my own panel out of
carbon fiber.
Interestingly enough there is not many other things I would do different on
the aircraft, fuel system comes to mind but that's about it really.
Cheers, Paul
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: installing thedoor seal gasket |
Hi Ferg
"In the process of installing the gasket I have run
into the very resistant qualities of this item >>> What did you
do - especially at the corners?"
I really didn't have too much
problems, I started at one end and using a piece of Oak bout 3/4" x
3/4" x 6" long pounded into position a little at a time, always
forcing seal towards part that was fully in position (where you started
from). In the sharp corners again always force towards where you started
from so you don't undo what you just did.
Ron Parigoris
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