Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:04 AM - Re: gascolators (G-IANI)
2. 05:30 AM - Re: New Tail Spring (John Price)
3. 05:32 AM - Araldite 420 A & B (John Price)
4. 05:56 AM - Re: Araldite 420 A & B (G-IANI)
5. 11:57 AM - Re: Araldite 420 A & B (duanefamly@aol.com)
6. 12:49 PM - Re: Araldite 420 A & B (Bud Yerly)
7. 01:16 PM - Re: Araldite 420 A & B (Kelvin Weston)
8. 04:36 PM - Jabiru 3300 Prop Question (duanefamly@aol.com)
9. 06:08 PM - Re: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question (Paul McAllister)
10. 07:53 PM - Re: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
11. 07:57 PM - Re: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
12. 09:24 PM - Re: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question (duanefamly@aol.com)
13. 09:38 PM - Speed Brakes/Spoilers (Fergus Kyle)
Message 1
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Mike
You do not need your tin hat.
G-IANI has the same set up as G-JULZ and although not perfect it works very
well. G-IRON has the serial pump setup which is no better, costs a lot more
and takes up more space.
My only contribution is that I have self sealing quick release connectors on
the system (see the attached picture). This allows the whole thing to be
removed without fuel going every ware.
These connectors are not available from the usual sources (Europa and Demon
Tweeks) as they are 5/16. You have to get them from a specialist and the
details are below
Tom Parker Limited Web site www.tom-parker.co.uk
Each connector consists of a cPLCD17005V coupling and a cPLCD2205 insert.
Both are self sealing
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
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| Subject: | Re: New Tail Spring |
No idea how we bent the bolt/spring we just noticed that it was bent. In truth
It may have been bent by the previous owner and slowly over time it has got worse.
John.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302790#302790
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| Subject: | Araldite 420 A & B |
Any one know where I can get some. I don't need very much, but cannot seem to find
a retailer on google.
John.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302791#302791
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| Subject: | Araldite 420 A & B |
John
Europa normally has 420 and, of course any parts you need for the repair.
As far as I know 420 is not available in small quantities.
If the amount you need is really small another owner may be able to help.
Best if it is someone local to you.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Araldite 420 A & B |
The last place I got it from was Graco Supply in Fort Worth, Texas 817 535
-3200. And they call it Epibond 420A/B. They sell it by the quart.
Mike Duane
Redding, Calif.
Europa XS Conventional Gear
-----Original Message-----
From: John Price <nicolaprice@tiscali.co.uk>
Sent: Mon, Jun 28, 2010 5:31 am
Subject: Europa-List: Araldite 420 A & B
>
Any one know where I can get some. I don't need very much, but cannot seem
to
ind a retailer on google.
John.
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302791#302791
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Araldite 420 A & B |
John and Ian,
Epibond 420 A/B is the tooling epoxy which is exactly the same as
Araldite 420 A/B aka Redux made here in the States and I believe in
Europe. It is sold in 50ml packets, and larger containers. Check with
your Huntsman Dealers in the UK, and hopefully they don't have a $5000
minimum like the jerks in the States require. Otherwise it is a quart
or 1 kilo container available through your epoxy dealers or Europa.
Fiona should have some new stuff in stock. I would even suspect you
could get a small thimble of redux from the repair shop at the factory
if you could get down there.
Not to pry, but if you bent the bolt, and you have removed the spring,
you have an opportunity to put in a 3/8 inch chrome moly tube in the old
hole as a sleeve. Redux the heck out of it and I have found that the
sleeve allows you to bolt the spring down without crushing the epoxy
wood material, it holds the the spring end quite well, and of course
don't forget the epoxy flange around the tail post, which is critical.
Hope they have good composite dealers overseas with what you need.
Many owners also have small amounts still left over and may help also.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations
Europa Tech Assistance...
----- Original Message -----
From: G-IANI<mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 8:53 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Araldite 420 A & B
<g-iani@ntlworld.com<mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com>>
John
Europa normally has 420 and, of course any parts you need for the
repair.
As far as I know 420 is not available in small quantities.
If the amount you need is really small another owner may be able to
help.
Best if it is someone local to you.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com<mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Araldite 420 A & B |
John
In the UK try www.silmid.com
You can order on the web or by telephone and they do 200ml for approx 43 GBP.
The full 1.4 Kg tin will set you back 135 GBP.
--------
Regards
Kelv Weston
Kit 497
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302875#302875
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| Subject: | Jabiru 3300 Prop Question |
Good day All,
I am mounting my Sensenich R642N Ground Adjustable prop to the engine flan
ge and wanted to verify with those that have already accomplished this tas
k if I am understanding the mounting procedure.
The spinner flange goes against the engine flange then the large aluminum
mount goes on. These are held by six AN5-15A bolts inserted from the rear
with a dual interlocking washer under the head, then another interlocking
washer under the Nylock nut with all this torqued to 30 ft/lbs in sequenc
e. Then the center adjusting hub and both prop blades are mounted with the
front half of the aluminum mount. These are mounted with another six AN5-
15A bolts with a dual interlocking washer under each head and torqued to
30 ft/lbs.
Am I understanding this correctly? Has anyone used Loctite on any of the
threads? What about safety wire?.....wanted?.......required?
Mike Duane
Europa XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich Prop
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question |
Hi Mike,
I am not familiar with the Jab / Sensenich combination, but I can say that
standard aviation practice is to safety wire the bolts.
Cheers, Paul
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question |
Paul-
This combination uses a prop extension on the engine.=C2- It is almost im
possible to get your fingers down into it far enough to safety wire, so Jab
iru has a procedure to use a specific brand of Locktite and a specified tor
que.=C2- The procedure and setup are outlined in the documentation furnis
hed with the prop extension.
Jim Puglise A-283
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 9:07:48 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question
Hi Mike,
I am not familiar with the Jab / Sensenich combination, but I can say that
standard aviation practice is to safety wire the bolts.
Cheers,=C2- Paul
==
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question |
Mike-
Sorry, I saw Paul's response and added a comment to that.=C2- Are you usi
ng the prop extension furnished by Jabiru?=C2- I believe it is a requirem
ent with your setup.=C2- I am using the 2 blade Sensenich ground adjustab
le with the 3300 but have not yet mounted the prop.=C2- The Jabiru people
were adamant about adding the extension prior to mounting the prop.=C2-
I have the extension on and have mounted my cowling.=C2- I am using the C
anadian cowling and without the extension, the cowling would be about three
inches too long.=C2- If you have questions regarding the combination, yo
u should probably talk to Jim at Jabiru Pacific before proceeding.
Jim Puglise A-283
----- Original Message -----
From: duanefamly@aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 7:25:28 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question
Good day All,
I am mounting my Sensenich R642N Ground Adjustable prop to the engine flang
e and wanted to verify with those that have already accomplished this task
if I am understanding the mounting procedure.
The spinner flange goes against the engine flange then the large aluminum m
ount goes on. These are held by=C2-six AN5-15A bolts inserted from the re
ar with a dual interlocking washer under the head, then another interlockin
g washer under the Nylock nut with all this torqued to 30 ft/lbs in sequenc
e. Then the center adjusting hub and both prop blades are mounted with the
front half of the aluminum mount. These are mounted with another=C2-six A
N5-15A bolts with a dual interlocking washer under each head and torqued to
30 ft/lbs.
Am I understanding this correctly? Has anyone used Loctite on any of the th
reads? What about safety wire?.....wanted?.......required?
Mike Duane
Europa XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich Prop
Good day All,
I am mounting my Sensenich R642N Ground Adjustable prop to the engine flang
e and wanted to verify with those that have already accomplished this task
if I am understanding the mounting procedure.
The spinner flange goes against the engine flange then the large aluminum m
ount goes on. These are held by=C2-six AN5-15A bolts inserted from the re
ar with a dual interlocking washer under the head, then another interlockin
g washer under the Nylock nut with all this torqued to 30 ft/lbs in sequenc
e. Then the center adjusting hub and both prop blades are mounted with the
front half of the aluminum mount. These are mounted with another=C2-six A
N5-15A bolts with a dual interlocking washer under each head and torqued to
30 ft/lbs.
Am I understanding this correctly? Has anyone used Loctite on any of the th
reads? What about safety wire?.....wanted?.......required?
Mike Duane
Europa XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
===============
==
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question |
Jim,
Thank you for ringing my bell about instructions.....it took me awhile but
I finally remembered where I safely filed the paperwork. After reading th
e instructions, my recollections were correct.....but there is no mention
on any Loctite......they just call for the use of lock nuts and "special"
lock washers. But there is plenty of room behind the hub, with the cowls
off, to safety wire the six bolts for the hub mount half and then wire th
e six bolts for the hub cover in the front. But in order to do this I will
have to order replacement bolts in order to use safety wire.
Thanks for all the assistance.
Mike Duane
-----Original Message-----
From: jimpuglise@comcast.net
Sent: Mon, Jun 28, 2010 7:43 pm
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question
Paul-
This combination uses a prop extension on the engine. It is almost imposs
ible to get your fingers down into it far enough to safety wire, so Jabiru
has a procedure to use a specific brand of Locktite and a specified torqu
e. The procedure and setup are outlined in the documentation furnished wi
th the prop extension.
Jim Puglise A-283
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 9:07:48 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Jabiru 3300 Prop Question
Hi Mike,
I am not familiar with the Jab / Sensenich combination, but I can say that
standard aviation practice is to safety wire the bolts.
Cheers, Paul
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Speed Brakes/Spoilers |
One of us has it right (IMHO). The spoiler cancel switch should be on the
throttle. The TriStar was a whiz in cockpit design. There were four
different kinds of spoilers on the wing.
The first were big jobs inboard to plop the aircraft onto the tires on
touchdown because you could round out, put only five of eight mainwheels on,
catch a drift and touch brakes would blow out the tires on the runway - so
the full weight was required to save tires - called GROUND SPOILERS. The
second were roll augmenters and "speed brakes" in the air but accompanies
the biggies when the touchdown was complete, the third types were outboard
to balance fuel tank contents on an "active" wing (called 'direct Lift
control' - don't ask) and I can't remember the 4th, but three of the four
assisted in roll. The speed brakes could only be selected in air with no
flap out - they were then effective bakes.
So, you can call 'em speed brakes only if they operate to increase
drag - that's how the are engineered into the wing. Just to complicate it,
there were mixers which decided if your selection was (a) acceptable and (b)
possible.
The crux was on the throttles (4). The oputer ones had outside
buttons in parallel, so were called GO AROUND buttons. If Cap'n was flying
he used the No1 throttle button, if the F/O was doing it he had the No4
throttle button. When you wanted to abort the approach, you hollered "Go
around", pushed the GA button on your side as you opened the throttles to GA
power. The approach was made with some spoiler panels partially extended.
The button [1] demanded a proper nose-up pitch, [2] cancelled the extended
spoilers instantly which allowed the aircraft to 'leap' upward and [3] did a
number of complicated things which made aborting an approach magic and
instantaneous. No other a/c could do this and it meant (very early in the
trade) approaching to 7 feet (wheel height) from the runway and not drop a
foot farther - without ever seeing the ground. And 90% of the exercise was
aerodynamic - a miracle. Let's hear it for partial spoilers.
I suspect the throttle is the ideal place to cancel spoilers/speed
brakes because you are probably going to want to increase speed or improve
lift - and now.
I have to close, I hear matron coming down the hall.
Ferg
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