Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:50 AM - Re: Negative "G" (rampil)
2. 09:37 AM - EFIS Installation (Trevpond@aol.com)
3. 02:29 PM - Re: Voltage reading of 25V (Karl Heindl)
4. 04:19 PM - Re: Voltage reading of 25V (Greg Fuchs)
5. 07:41 PM - Re: Voltage reading of 25V (Karl Heindl)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Negative "G" |
The engine will stop after a few seconds due to fuel starvation.
You may also draw air into the fine oil channels that we must carefully
purge after opening the lower portions of oil system.
I have not methodically flight tested negative g, but have seen a few
awkward akro moments and some moderate turbulence. A second or
two of neg 1 g should be no problem in my opinion.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=306686#306686
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Subject: | EFIS Installation |
Hi Guys,
My Blue Mountain EFIS has finally expired and of course they have gone out
of business!
I'm looking at putting in a Dynon Skyview in it's place and am looking an
installer who won't try to skin me on price. Anybody know of anyone?
Regards
Trevor
G-LINN (thank goodness for miniature standby instruments)
Message 3
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Subject: | Voltage reading of 25V |
Greg=2C
The problem is with the EIS=2C only why did it coincide with a battery move
?
I checked the voltage in the panel and everything looks fine with the main
system.
The EIS gives good readings with the engine off. Thde only anomaly is the v
oltage which says 11.0=2C when it should be 12.5.
When I start the engine the readings go haywire: oil temp is below of what
is possible=2C pressure is 99=2C cht is 900C. After switching the EIS off a
nd on a few times the readings are good. But then the numbers start bouncin
g around again. Of course Grand Rapids are closed for Oshkosh until Monday
=2C and I am not sure what to do.
Any other ideas ?
Karl
From: gregoryf.flyboy@comcast.net
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Voltage reading of 25V
Hmm..Not sure=2C
My first thought was along the line of what Ira had said..bad ground somewh
ere.
Try making some measurements between the power and ground rails with a han
dheld meter to confirm what the EIS was reading. Take the measurements with
the key on and the engine off=2C to eliminate all chance of actually produ
cing deadly avionics voltages from a spinning alternator. What is the EIS r
eading in this configuration(engine off)? Could there be something that was
connected to the rear-ward wiring that became disconnected when moving the
battery up front? Is the ground strap to the engine block still connected?
Greg
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
Sent: Wednesday=2C July 28=2C 2010 12:23 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Voltage reading of 25V
This one is for you electric specialists:
All I did was to move the battery back to the firewall from the rear fusela
ge. I fire up the engine for a highspeed taxi test for my MG configuration
and I get a voltage reading of 25.
I swapped regulators - I always carry a spare - but no change. I also get
the same reading with the alternator switched off. What could I possibly ha
ve screwed up ?
To make things even more perplexing=2C the oil pressure indication does not
drop below 93=2C as the engine is warming up=2C but maybe the two are some
how related. All readings are from the EIS. Never had a problem like this b
efore.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks=2C Karl
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 4
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Subject: | Voltage reading of 25V |
Karl,
>The problem is with the EIS, only why did it coincide with a battery move ?
It shouldn't, unless something else changed.
Ok, so the focus is on the Grand Rapids unit. I don't know much about the
unit itself.
What is the model number? Could you steer me to information on it, so that I
might find out more about it?
Not knowing anything about the GR unit, here are some general ideas (all
measurements taken with the engine off and master on).
1. Check supply voltage and ground connections to the remote measuring
system (if there is one). You know, the box that sometimes exists under the
cowl with all the sensor wires running to it.
2. Check supply voltage and ground connections to the EIS unit, itself.
3. Check if there are any 'sense' lines that need to be connected that
have become open. (Leave this one for later, until after looking at the
units documentation).
#1 and 2 above can be checked with a handheld meter set to volts. Red probe
to (+ supply) and Black probe to (- supply) on the EIS and repeated for
remote measuring box.
If all is ok so far, you can now check that the ground and power connections
are valid and stable, i.e.. not getting partial power or a partial ground
through another device that isn't the battery.
1a. Verifying that the ground is stable and valid: Black probe on handheld
meter(set to volts) to the battery ground post. Red probe to the negative
supply (GND) on the EIS. Repeat for the box under the cowl.
Both readings should effectively be zero. If not, it will show a connection
problem to the ground of the unit.
2a. Verify positive Supply is stable and valid. Red probe on handheld to
the battery positive terminal. Black probe on the handheld to the VCC/Supply
on the remote measuring box.
Repeat for EIS. Again, both readings should effectively be zero, since a
zero reading will show up the correct connection to the battery (readings
taken across the wire). Any measurements producing more than a few
millivolts (maybe 10's of millivolts) are suspect. If invalid reading, it
will show a bad supply connection.
Note that if the voltage measurements in #1 and #2 gave the full battery
voltage, then 1a and 2a will probably be zero, unless something is changing
dynamically.
I hope some of this makes sense,
Greg
P.S. Is the old battery ground wire separate from the new ground wire? If
they are not connected to each other but still in place, try shorting the
two together to see if the readings go back to normal. NOT + to - or VCC to
ground for goodness sakes, unless you want to see a lot of sparks! Just
connect new ground to the old ground, and the new vcc to the old vcc. You
might try this one first, since it is easier. If the old battery wires are
taken out, then never mind.
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 2:28 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Voltage reading of 25V
Greg,
The problem is with the EIS, only why did it coincide with a battery move ?
I checked the voltage in the panel and everything looks fine with the main
system.
The EIS gives good readings with the engine off. Thde only anomaly is the
voltage which says 11.0, when it should be 12.5.
When I start the engine the readings go haywire: oil temp is below of what
is possible, pressure is 99, cht is 900C. After switching the EIS off and on
a few times the readings are good. But then the numbers start bouncing
around again. Of course Grand Rapids are closed for Oshkosh until Monday,
and I am not sure what to do.
Any other ideas ?
Karl
Message 5
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Subject: | Voltage reading of 25V |
Thank you for spending so much time on my problem=2C Gary. I will try and m
ake the suggested measurements. I have another little problem in that I can
't find my documentation. I will have a good search tomorrow=2C and maybe g
et it off the internet.
The unit is a EIS 2000=2C installed around 2000. It never gave a problem. J
udging by the symptons it looks like a loose connection or broken wire. It
would also explain why it is acting up especially when the engine is runnin
g with a little vibration.
The EIS cable with multipin connector ends in a box on the front of the fir
ewall=2C so access should be no problem. The old battery cables=2C which we
re actually new Perihelion
4 gauge aluminum =2C were completely removed=2C and I made up two new very
short leads from the same material.
Cheers=2C Karl
From: gregoryf.flyboy@comcast.net
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Voltage reading of 25V
Karl=2C
>The problem is with the EIS=2C only why did it coincide with a battery mov
e ?
It shouldn't=2C unless something else changed.
Ok=2C so the focus is on the Grand Rapids unit. I don't know much about the
unit itself.
What is the model number? Could you steer me to information on it=2C so tha
t I might find out more about it?Not knowing anything about the GR unit=2C
here are some general ideas (all measurements taken with the engine off and
master on).
1. Check supply voltage and ground connections to the remote measuring
system (if there is one). You know=2C the box that sometimes exists under t
he cowl with all the sensor wires running to it.
2. Check supply voltage and ground connections to the EIS unit=2C itsel
f.
3. Check if there are any 'sense' lines that need to be connected that h
ave become open. (Leave this one for later=2C until after looking at the un
its documentation).
#1 and 2 above can be checked with a handheld meter set to volts. Red probe
to (+ supply) and Black probe to (- supply) on the EIS and repeated for re
mote measuring box.
If all is ok so far=2C you can now check that the ground and power connecti
ons are valid and stable=2C i.e.. not getting partial power or a partial gr
ound through another device that isn't the battery.
1a. Verifying that the ground is stable and valid: Black probe on handheld
meter(set to volts) to the battery ground post. Red probe to the negative
supply (GND) on the EIS. Repeat for the box under the cowl.
Both readings should effectively be zero. If not=2C it will show a connecti
on problem to the ground of the unit.
2a. Verify positive Supply is stable and valid. Red probe on handheld to
the battery positive terminal. Black probe on the handheld to the VCC/Suppl
y on the remote measuring box.
Repeat for EIS. Again=2C both readings should effectively be zero=2C since
a zero reading will show up the correct connection to the battery (readings
taken across the wire). Any measurements producing more than a few milliv
olts (maybe 10's of millivolts) are suspect. If invalid reading=2C it will
show a bad supply connection.
Note that if the voltage measurements in #1 and #2 gave the full battery vo
ltage=2C then 1a and 2a will probably be zero=2C unless something is changi
ng dynamically.
I hope some of this makes sense=2C
Greg
P.S. Is the old battery ground wire separate from the new ground wire? If
they are not connected to each other but still in place=2C try shorting the
two together to see if the readings go back to normal. NOT + to - or VCC t
o ground for goodness sakes=2C unless you want to see a lot of sparks! Just
connect new ground to the old ground=2C and the new vcc to the old vcc. Y
ou might try this one first=2C since it is easier. If the old battery wires
are taken out=2C then never mind.
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
Sent: Thursday=2C July 29=2C 2010 2:28 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Voltage reading of 25V
Greg=2C
The problem is with the EIS=2C only why did it coincide with a battery move
?
I checked the voltage in the panel and everything looks fine with the main
system.
The EIS gives good readings with the engine off. Thde only anomaly is the v
oltage which says 11.0=2C when it should be 12.5.
When I start the engine the readings go haywire: oil temp is below of what
is possible=2C pressure is 99=2C cht is 900C. After switching the EIS off a
nd on a few times the readings are good. But then the numbers start bouncin
g around again. Of course Grand Rapids are closed for Oshkosh until Monday
=2C and I am not sure what to do.
Any other ideas ?
Karl
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