Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:27 AM - Re: tail pipe clearance (neveyre@aol.co.uk)
2. 12:35 AM - Re: Need help with removal of landing gear frame (neveyre@aol.co.uk)
3. 02:18 AM - Re: Need help with removal of landing gear frame (Robert C Harrison)
4. 03:53 AM - Re: Fuel Pressure Indication (Hans J. Danielsen)
5. 07:26 AM - Re: Need help with removal of landing gear frame (Bud Yerly)
6. 07:26 AM - Re: Need help with removal of landing gear frame (Peter Jeffers)
7. 07:51 AM - Firewall (William Daniell)
8. 01:36 PM - Re: fluorescent dye - Fuel Leaks (david miller)
9. 06:59 PM - Re: Singleton firewall (Troy Maynor)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: tail pipe clearance |
Hi Fred,
Clearence needs to be 1 BST [ British Standard Thumb] one inch at least,
anything less will get the paint scorched.
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com>
Sent: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 2:34
Subject: Europa-List: tail pipe clearance
Hi All,
After searching the manuals, I cannot seem to locate any stipulations or
recommendations on clearance for the tail pipe from the fiberglass as it
penetrates the cowl.
Could I get some idea of what clearances seem to be adequate from those of
you who are already flying?
Thanks,
Fred
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Need help with removal of landing gear frame |
Hi Luc,
Redux will ''let go'' when heated, take the bolts out, grind [dremel] as
much of the Redux away as you can to begin with.
Tie / chock the fuselage so it can not move forward, get webbing straps on
the top and bottom members of the frame hooked to a car or something heav
y.
You need 4 pieces of steel bar that are a tight fit in the mount tubes, th
at stick out the front by about 4'' when fully inserted.
Mask the fuselage areas close to the exposed bars with box card / alloy fo
il / sheet steel WHY and get the bars hot with a propane [ or prefereably
an acetalyne] torch.
Have wet towels ready to cool any areas of the tunnel you see getting war
m, but with a fast application of heat to the 4 bars the Redux will go sof
t and with tension on the webbing straps, tap with a soft hammer, the fram
e will come out forwards.
Keep the frame square as it moves forward, otherwise it may jam up.
When it is out, quench the tunnel area with the wet towels.
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Luc Michaud <rambug@gmail.com>
Sent: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 3:56
Subject: Europa-List: Need help with removal of landing gear frame
While my engine is unmounted for some work, I would like to tend to the co
rrosion issues of my plane.
Among others, I would like to remove the landing gear frame to get it sand
blasted and powdercoated. However, it's not only held in place by 8 bolts
, but also by a green-ish cement, which I presume is a mixture of Redux an
d flox.
Is there any trick to ease the removal of this frame ? Any way to soften
the cement without damage the fuselage ?
Luc
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Message 3
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Subject: | Need help with removal of landing gear frame |
Hi! Luc.
Further to Nev's suggestion below I'd suggest using some copper bars as the
heat transfer medium.
I had used carefully taped cling film when I fitted mine so it came out
easily.
Of course the powder coating will increase the diameter so you will need
some clearance making to get the frame back in and it will also need freshly
bedding on the new Redux Flox mix. I also used saddle washers between the
finally positioned tube and the bolt heads/nuts.
Regards
Bob Harrison
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
neveyre@aol.co.uk
Sent: 19 October 2010 08:31
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Need help with removal of landing gear frame
Hi Luc,
Redux will ''let go'' when heated, take the bolts out, grind [dremel] as
much of the Redux away as you can to begin with.
Tie / chock the fuselage so it can not move forward, get webbing straps on
the top and bottom members of the frame hooked to a car or something heavy.
You need 4 pieces of steel bar that are a tight fit in the mount tubes, that
stick out the front by about 4'' when fully inserted.
Mask the fuselage areas close to the exposed bars with box card / alloy foil
/ sheet steel WHY and get the bars hot with a propane [ or prefereably an
acetalyne] torch.
Have wet towels ready to cool any areas of the tunnel you see getting warm,
but with a fast application of heat to the 4 bars the Redux will go soft and
with tension on the webbing straps, tap with a soft hammer, the frame will
come out forwards.
Keep the frame square as it moves forward, otherwise it may jam up.
When it is out, quench the tunnel area with the wet towels.
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Luc Michaud <rambug@gmail.com>
Sent: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 3:56
Subject: Europa-List: Need help with removal of landing gear frame
While my engine is unmounted for some work, I would like to tend to the
corrosion issues of my plane.
Among others, I would like to remove the landing gear frame to get it
sandblasted and powdercoated. However, it's not only held in place by 8
bolts, but also by a green-ish cement, which I presume is a mixture of Redux
and flox.
Is there any trick to ease the removal of this frame ? Any way to soften
the cement without damage the fuselage ?
Luc
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Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Pressure Indication |
Thanks to those who supplied me with informations on this subject. To
Bud: I'm aware of the additional parts spelled out in the Installations
manual, I also have installed a fuel pressure instrument - otherwise i
wouldn't have detected my problem (too high fuel pressure)!
My issue was the lack of coherence between the installations and
operations manuals. (To give the builder an advice of an indicator
system which "is nice to have" in one, while the other spells out danger
if you experience a condition you would know nothing about - if you did
not follow the advice).
Now - this is not the airlines (my background), but I'm pretty sure
they would detect and correct such a mismatch immediately.
This is definitely a safety related issue and should be adressed by
Rotax the sooner the better (to ammend the istallations manual to
REQUIRE a fuel pressure indications system).
As to my problem: I sorted it yesterday. It was of course a pinched hose
in there, and it was quite a feat to repair it! Now everything is nice
and green again.
Cheers,
Hans, LN-HJD, #334
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Need help with removal of landing gear frame |
Luc,
I appreciate your desire to clean up the old girl, but I question why.
Some good old fasioned elbow work and cleaning will free up the rust.
Osphor is a brand name of a corrosion inhibitor which will turn the
small amount of rust to oxides that are stable, and a hand painting with
care with a good primer and paint will relieve you of the work.
If it must be done, Nev is right, not a huge deal, I've done it before,
just go slow and take your time. Use a Dremel tool and assortment of
bits to reduce the volume of Redux down a bit so not as much heat is
needed.
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: Luc Michaud<mailto:rambug@gmail.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 10:56 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Need help with removal of landing gear frame
While my engine is unmounted for some work, I would like to tend to
the corrosion issues of my plane.
Among others, I would like to remove the landing gear frame to get it
sandblasted and powdercoated. However, it's not only held in place by 8
bolts, but also by a green-ish cement, which I presume is a mixture of
Redux and flox.
Is there any trick to ease the removal of this frame ? Any way to
soften the cement without damage the fuselage ?
Luc
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 6
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Subject: | Need help with removal of landing gear frame |
Hi Luc,
The greenish cement is indeed Redux with added Flox. The only practical way
to soften it is to use heat, preferably from a hot air gun. Be careful not
to allow to much heat to get into the surrounding fibre glass. Masking
using two or three layers of un resined Bid is quite a good way to achieve
this.
It is at least a two person job, one heating and one using appropriate
percussive force to break each of the four bonds in turn. The first one is
the most difficult.
I guess there was no need to suggest removing the bolts first.
It is not a nice job and I would prefer not to try it at all unless you are
really sure it is necessary. In the early days of classic europas we all
had to change our U/C frames due to a re design. It was not fun.
Pete Jeffers Europa Club LAA Inspector
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Luc Michaud
Sent: 19 October 2010 03:57
Subject: Europa-List: Need help with removal of landing gear frame
While my engine is unmounted for some work, I would like to tend to the
corrosion issues of my plane.
Among others, I would like to remove the landing gear frame to get it
sandblasted and powdercoated. However, it's not only held in place by 8
bolts, but also by a green-ish cement, which I presume is a mixture of Redux
and flox.
Is there any trick to ease the removal of this frame ? Any way to soften
the cement without damage the fuselage ?
Luc
Message 7
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|
*What is the consensus on firewall? Is there any need to add anything
to the red/brown firewall? I am thinking of, for example, ceramic blanket.
Thanks
Will
*
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: fluorescent dye - Fuel Leaks |
Hi Paul,
John Wigney gave me some Dye-Lite leak detector tracer dye, product #
TP-3700
manfrd by spectronics corpn , Westbury N.Y., you can find it on line
somewhere.
In the end I did not have to use it, as soon as I plumbed the vent
line back into the tank filler neck the smell went away,
Dave
On 18-Oct-10, at 11:03 AM, Paul McAllister wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> As part of my "mega annual" I replaced some of the rubber fuel hose
> in my fuel system, and despite using fuel injection hose clamps
> (aka expensive), I am no greeted with the familiar smell of auto gas.
>
> I returned from flying last evening and my wife gave me one sniff
> and said, ah you have been with your mistress again.... alas I
> could not deny it.
>
> I was wondering if any one has used fluorescent dye successfully
> for chasing down fuel leaks, and if so could you suggest a supplier.
>
> Thanks and regards, Paul
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Singleton firewall |
Hi Bill,
Perhaps these pix on the gallery link might help. I put sheet silicone, held with
little stainless strips, around the holes cut for the engine mount. This provides
a good seal around the tubes. There was a good deal of trimming with a
dremel to get a good fit. I was going to use fire caulk around the seams but ended
up putting insulation over the whole thing anyway so I ommited the sealant.
Hope this helps.
Troy Maynor
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=44024
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316406#316406
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