Europa-List Digest Archive

Wed 01/12/11


Total Messages Posted: 7



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:10 AM - Re: Door shootbolt rod material (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
     2. 01:45 AM - Re: ELTs, tailwheel bearings, carb problems (Brian Davies)
     3. 02:07 AM - Re: Aussie floods (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
     4. 03:28 AM - Re: ELTs, tailwheel bearings, carb problems (Remi Guerner)
     5. 08:09 AM - Re: Door shootbolt rod material (Rob Housman)
     6. 08:12 AM - Re: inner diameter fuel hose (europapa)
     7. 11:24 PM - ELTs, tailwheel bearings, carb problems (p-a.austin)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:10:40 AM PST US
    From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: Door shootbolt rod material
    Tony=0Athe material as supplied was not very strong anyway, so store bought rod should =0Abe OK. However have a look at the way Paul McAllister did it . We used 2024 sheet =0Ainstead of slotting the rather soft rod. Much stron ger.=0A=0AAlso we put bushes in the door surounds too which the old manual doesn't do=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Tony R enshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>=0ATo: europa-list@matronics.com=0ASent: W ednesday, 12 January, 2011 0:50:26=0ASubject: Europa-List: Door shootbolt r aw268@gmail.com>=0A=0AHi,=0AIn the process of attempting to nominally incre ase the length of the aft =0Ashootbolt throw, I cut the rod and sleeved it, but it now catches within the =0Asill as it actuates. I think I might just replace the pushrod with new material, =0Ahopefully sourced locally. I kno w it doesn't have to be very strong, so maybe =0Ahardware grade aluminium m ight be OK for the 10 mm rod replacement? I could also =0Apossibly source t he flattish rectangular product Europa uses on the door sill =0Ashoulder wi dth mod, but I don't know its dimensions or what it is made of. =0A=0AI am open to an requesting any ideas/suggestions on how I should overcome this =0Awithout international postage on a 1 m long item, a fortune. =0A=0A=0ATh anks.=0AReg=0ATony Renshaw=0AP.S. The 10 mm diameter is an issue of itself, as I don't seem to be able to get =0Athat size locally, but I do have a ma te with a lathe, so if I bought 1/2" we =0Acould turn it down.


    Message 2


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    Time: 01:45:43 AM PST US
    From: "Brian Davies" <brian.davies@clara.co.uk>
    Subject: ELTs, tailwheel bearings, carb problems
    Hi Richard, So you are still surviving the draconian regulations that now exist in Kenya! I converted my Mono to a Trigear a long time ago but I do remember having problems with the original tail wheel bearings. I returned the first wheel to Europa because it had grumbly/ sticking bearings from new. The replacement wheel was just the same so I took the bearings apart and it was obvious they were very inferior. The balls looked like lumps of lead shot rather than ground balls. I replaced them with the Aircraft Spruce bearings and never had a problem after that. Best regards Brian Davies From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Lamprey Sent: 11 January 2011 09:35 Subject: Europa-List: ELTs, tailwheel bearings, carb problems Greetings from Kenya. I've saved up a few questions for the network, perhaps someone out there can help. 1. New regulations here dictate that we must now all fly with 406 ELT, and especially recommended is the Artex 406 (PLBs will not do here). This requires that for composite aircraft, the skin of the aircraft must have radial metallic strips, 1 inch wide, in the shape of a 6-point star, extending out for 24 inches in all directions. Seems a bit excessive for a Europa, where can we find that space? Behind bagage bay is obvious best bet. Will alumnium strips work (I have sticky aluminium tape, 2" wide). Has anyone fitted this arrangement? Does anyome have a mod approval, STC or something for the Artex 406 installation in a Europa, that I can wave at aviation officialdom here? 2. My tailwheel goes through bearings at the rate of knots, must be our dusty runways. But it is costly to fit new tailwheels, when the tyre itself is fine. Has anyone tried to fit the bearings available from Aircraft Spruce into the Europa tailwheel? 3. Two weeks ago I got into the Europa (Classic, 912UL), started up, and had very rough running. Under the hood, found that the left carb was leaking back through the connection to the plenum chamber, theres a small hole for water clearance, and fuel was pouring onto the ground. Further investigation revealed that all this seems to be because of an overflowing float chamber. The float 'needle' (with viton tip) looks absolutely clean, no grooves on its face, but no adjustment of the float bracket will stop the flow. The floats are fine. Has anyone had this problem after just 500 hours of flying? The fuel goes through an Andair gascolator upstream, so I am not sure what contamination caused this. Thanks, and all best to all for the New Year! Richard Europa 168, Kenya.


    Message 3


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    Time: 02:07:53 AM PST US
    From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: Aussie floods
    Kingsley's OK but I don't know about Lance=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________ _______________________=0AFrom: craigb <craigb@onthenet.com.au>=0ATo: europ a-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, 12 January, 2011 1:40:31=0ASubject: RE: Europa-List: Aussie floods=0A=0A =0ANot sure about them, but Brisbane is going to flood tonight and tomorrow, the =0Adams are all at about 180% c apacity=0ASo they have to do a big dump of water today ( the extra 90% was for flood =0Amitigation built in after the 1974 floods)=0A =0AFrom:owner-eu ropa-list-server@matronics.com =0A[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronic s.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM SINGLETON=0ASent: Tuesday, 11 January 2011 6:02 PM=0ATo: europa-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: Europa-List: Aussie floods=0A =0AKingsley & Lance,=0AI hope you didn't get washed away by the floods. Ar e you OK. Any news?=0AGraham=0A =0A =0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator ?Europa-List=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/contr -======================== ================== =0A


    Message 4


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    Time: 03:28:08 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: ELTs, tailwheel bearings, carb problems
    From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner@orange.fr>
    Richard, I had the same problem with the tailwheel bearings. I replaced them with the ACS ones (P/N 06-00060). Removing the old bearings requires heating the wheel with an hair dryer to soften the glue while you are hammering the bearing outside. I also replaced the Europa supplied plastic spacers with a steel tube (ACS P/N 03-04100). This tube fits perfectly inside the bearings without any machining. The steel tube is longer than the width of the wheel + 2 washers so that when you tight the 3/8 bolt, you do not put any strain on the bearings. Glue the bearing with Loctite 603. My original bearings had about 800 hours and were completely worn out. The new ones have only a few dozens hours and work just fine. Regards Remi Guerner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326656#326656


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:09:33 AM PST US
    From: "Rob Housman" <rob@hyperion-ef.com>
    Subject: Door shootbolt rod material
    Oh goodie, I get to play metallurgist (again). First, as noted in the exchange, strength is not the issue. A wooden dowel (not recommended!!) would probably be adequate for this job. Any aluminum alloy will work just fine so select whatever is at hand or readily available, and in this case either 6061 or 6063 would be a good choice. 2024 is a higher strength alloy and would also be fine if it is conveniently available but otherwise not worth the slight extra cost. The real advantage to Paul=99s approach is the ease with which the =9Cfork=9D can be fabricated (does the manual still call for using a hack saw to cut the slot?) not the alloy used. Second, keep in mind that within the usual range of alloying elements any metal=99s modulus of elasticity (how much it deflects for a given applied force, in other words its =9Cstiffness=9D) is constant, while the tensile strength can vary dramatically for different alloys. Because of its length, the aft shoot-bolt must be sufficiently stiff or it could deflect and bind in the bushing, and apparently there are no examples of this being a problem =93 changing the aluminum alloy would have no effect. Best regards, Rob Housman Irvine, California Europa XS Rotax 914 S/N A070 Airframe complete Avionics soon From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM SINGLETON Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 1:07 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door shootbolt rod material Tony the material as supplied was not very strong anyway, so store bought rod should be OK. However have a look at the way Paul McAllister did it. We used 2024 sheet instead of slotting the rather soft rod. Much stronger. Also we put bushes in the door surounds too which the old manual doesn't do Graham _____ From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, 12 January, 2011 0:50:26 Subject: Europa-List: Door shootbolt rod material <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com> Hi, In the process of attempting to nominally increase the length of the aft shootbolt throw, I cut the rod and sleeved it, but it now catches within the sill as it actuates. I think I might just replace the pushrod with new material, hopefully sourced locally. I know it doesn't have to be very strong, so maybe hardware grade aluminium might be OK for the 10 mm rod replacement? I could also possibly source the flattish rectangular product Europa uses on the door sill shoulder width mod, but I don't know its dimensions or what it is made of. I am open to an requesting any ideas/suggestions on how I should overcome this without international postage on a 1 m long item, a fortune. Thanks. Reg Tony Renshaw P.S. The 10 mm diameter is an issue of itself, as I don't seem to be able to get that size locally, but I do have a mate with a lathe, so if I bought 1/2" we could turn it down.


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:12:17 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: inner diameter fuel hose
    From: "europapa" <jubu@onlinehome.de>
    Hi Remi, thank you for this information. I want also thank you for your very informative article in the Europa Flyer. I wouldn'thad expected an simple hairdryer that effective. What do you think about using two dryers for each hole? Juergen Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326684#326684


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:24:51 PM PST US
    From: "p-a.austin" <p-a.austin@xnet.co.nz>
    Subject: ELTs, tailwheel bearings, carb problems
    Hello Richard, I also have a Artex ME406 fitted in my Europa, today just completed my third annual and it tested fine, though two others on the field with the same model ELT have had failures, the G switch as Keith mentioned, the AD in this country now requires a 6 month check of the unit until Artex gets it sorted. My Antenna is mounted immediately behind my extended bagage bay, Pilot side, the ground plane is a round plate of Aluminium mounted on a fibre glass bracket which lets the right angled coax connection mate to the antenna (just) and allows the ground plane to extend over the rudder cable, the control unit is mounted aft of that, amidships, immediately forward of my Txponder top-hat type antenna which is mounted forward of the Tailplane mass balance guide. Alluding to what Keith said I used the coax that came with the unit, its full length, I did not cut it but curled it up and cable tied. I have never had a problem of any sort with this unit from day dot. Regards Peter ZK-ZEB. fuselage. I have copper strips curving up the side of the > fuselage and longditudinally in a square for a groundplane. We have had > a number of problems with this ELT in New Zealand: > > 1) The self-test routine seems to have been made over-sensitive to > various problems, and many people have had a "failed" self test saying > there is a problem with the antenna or groundplane. Artex finally > admitted there was a problem and suggested using a longer length of coax > to increase the impedance. Our local avionics man after extensive > testing of my unit thinks there might also be a problem with radiation > from the antenna supressing the unit from transmission if the antenna is > mounted close to the ELT. Apparently the units supplied for helicopters > have metal screening of the unit to prevent this. On metal aircraft with > the antenna outside the fuselage this is not a problem. It took us many > months to get my unit to pass the self-test. > > 2) There is a problem with the g switches becoming corroded, and several > have failed to activate in a crash. We currently have an AD requiring > regular checks of the gswitch. Artex are working on this problem. > > 3) Several helicopters with this unit fitted have had the antenna break > off in a crash so the unit has been inoperative. This shouldn't be a > problem with the antenna mounted inside the fuselage. > > In summary, this unit has not been trouble-free in New Zealand, though > Artex are working on the problems. Might be worth asking them about > progress if you are going to use this unit. > > Regards, > Keith. > > > Keith Hickling, > New Zealand. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard > Lamprey > Sent: Tuesday, 11 January 2011 10:35 p.m. > Subject: Europa-List: ELTs, tailwheel bearings, carb problems > > Greetings from Kenya. I've saved up a few questions for the network, > perhaps someone out there can help. > > 1. New regulations here dictate that we must now all fly with 406 ELT, > and especially recommended is the Artex 406 (PLBs will not do here). > This requires that for composite aircraft, the skin of the aircraft must > have radial metallic strips, 1 inch wide, in the shape of a 6-point > star, extending out for 24 inches in all directions. Seems a bit > excessive for a Europa, where can we find that space? Behind bagage bay > is obvious best bet. Will alumnium strips work (I have sticky aluminium > tape, 2" wide). Has anyone fitted this arrangement? Does anyome have a > mod approval, STC or something for the Artex 406 installation in a > Europa, that I can wave at aviation officialdom here? > > 2. My tailwheel goes through bearings at the rate of knots, must be our > dusty runways. But it is costly to fit new tailwheels, when the tyre > itself is fine. Has anyone tried to fit the bearings available from > Aircraft Spruce into the Europa tailwheel? > > 3. Two weeks ago I got into the Europa (Classic, 912UL), started up, > and had very rough running. Under the hood, found that the left carb > was leaking back through the connection to the plenum chamber, theres a > small hole for water clearance, and fuel was pouring onto the ground. > Further investigation revealed that all this seems to be because of an > overflowing float chamber. The float 'needle' (with viton tip) looks > absolutely clean, no grooves on its face, but no adjustment of the float > bracket will stop the flow. The floats are fine. Has anyone had this > problem after just 500 hours of flying? The fuel goes through an Andair > gascolator upstream, so I am not sure what contamination caused this. > > Thanks, and all best to all for the New Year! > > Richard > Europa 168, Kenya. > > > ________________________________ Message 8 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 06:53:27 PM PST US > From: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door shootbolt rod material > > > Tony, > > I have an original 1m X 10mm length of boltshoot aluminum rod. It seems > like 2024 > or 6061 would be the most likely candidates. Probably worth all of $2. > I'd > be happy to forward the rod to you for the cost of shipping, but that > probably > exceeds the value by 3 or 4 times. It's up to you. > > Check six, > Bob Borger > http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL > Europa XS, Short Wing, Intercooled Rotax 914 > rlborger@mac.com > Cel: 817-992-1117 > > > On Jan 11, 2011, at 6:50 PM, Tony Renshaw wrote: > >> >> Hi, >> In the process of attempting to nominally increase the length of the aft >> shootbolt > throw, I cut the rod and sleeved it, but it now catches within the sill > as it actuates. I think I might just replace the pushrod with new > material, hopefully > sourced locally. I know it doesn't have to be very strong, so maybe > hardware > grade aluminium might be OK for the 10 mm rod replacement? I could also > possibly source the flattish rectangular product Europa uses on the door > sill > shoulder width mod, but I don't know its dimensions or what it is made of. >> I am open to an requesting any ideas/suggestions on how I should overcome >> this > without international postage on a 1 m long item, a fortune. >> >> Thanks. >> Reg >> Tony Renshaw >> P.S. The 10 mm diameter is an issue of itself, as I don't seem to be able >> to > get that size locally, but I do have a mate with a lathe, so if I bought > 1/2" > we could turn it down. >> >> >> >> > > >




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