Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:02 AM - Re: Monowheel speed kit question (Remi Guerner)
2. 01:40 AM - Engine preheating (Guerner Remi)
3. 02:58 AM - Re: Engine preheating (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
4. 05:04 AM - Re: Engine preheating (Bob Harrison)
5. 05:23 AM - Main wing bushings (William Daniell)
6. 08:37 AM - Re: Main wing bushings (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
7. 10:54 AM - Re: Main wing bushings (JonSmith)
8. 11:13 AM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
9. 11:25 AM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (William Daniell)
10. 11:27 AM - Electrical Question (Basic) (JonSmith)
11. 11:36 AM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (William Daniell)
12. 11:51 AM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (Peter Zutrauen)
13. 12:07 PM - Re: Electrical Question (Basic) (Europa)
14. 12:23 PM - Re: www.europaowners.org down? (Martymason)
15. 01:14 PM - Re: Re: www.europaowners.org down? (Pete)
16. 02:01 PM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (William Daniell)
17. 02:47 PM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
18. 03:55 PM - Re: Engine preheating (Carl Pattinson)
19. 06:43 PM - Re: Main wing bushings (Bud Yerly)
20. 08:27 PM - Re: Electrical Question (Basic) (Bud Yerly)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Monowheel speed kit question |
Bonjour Jean Paul,
I had to rework my fairings too: heat with an hair dryer and slightly change the
camber of the flange as required.
Remi
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327259#327259
Message 2
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| Subject: | Engine preheating |
Juergen,
The key to the effectiveness of the described method is to force the
hot air around the cylinders fins through the Rotax air baffle.
Blowing hot air through the two other holes of the XS Europa cowling
would be a lot less effective to heat the engine. It also would mean a
higher temperature under the cowling and possibly too much heat on the
engine electronic components.
Remi
<<<<I want also thank you for your very informative article in the
Europa Flyer.
I wouldn't=B4had expected an simple hairdryer that effective.
What do you think about using two dryers for each hole? >>>>
Juergen
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Engine preheating |
Might be more effective to heat the oil and the coolant via the radiators,
then =0Ahope for a bit of convection?=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________
__________________=0AFrom: Guerner Remi <air.guerner@orange.fr>=0ATo: Europ
a-List Digest Server <europa-list@matronics.com>=0ASent: Monday, 17 January
, 2011 9:26:54=0ASubject: Europa-List: Engine preheating=0A=0A=0AJuergen,
=0A=0AThe key to the effectiveness of the described method is to force the
hot air =0Aaround the cylinders fins through the Rotax air baffle. Blowing
hot air through =0Athe two other holes of the XS Europa cowling would be a
lot less effective to =0Aheat the engine. It also would mean a higher tempe
rature under the cowling and =0Apossibly too much heat on the engine electr
onic components.=0A=0ARemi=0A=0A=0A=0A<<<<I want also thank you for your ve
ry informative article in the Europa =0AFlyer. =0AI wouldn't=B4had expected
an simple hairdryer that effective. =0AWhat do you think about using two d
=====
Message 4
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| Subject: | Engine preheating |
ONE of my volvo=92s had a mains heater system plumbed into the coolant
line
complete with circulatory pump and a thermostat. It=92s previous owner
was the
Service Manager for British Leyland which sends a mixed message if ever
there was one !
However it was very effective, quick and light weight,
Bob Harrison
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM
SINGLETON
Sent: 17 January 2011 10:55
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Engine preheating
Might be more effective to heat the oil and the coolant via the
radiators,
then hope for a bit of convection?
Graham
_____
From: Guerner Remi <air.guerner@orange.fr>
Sent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 9:26:54
Subject: Europa-List: Engine preheating
Juergen,
The key to the effectiveness of the described method is to force the hot
air
around the cylinders fins through the Rotax air baffle. Blowing hot air
through the two other holes of the XS Europa cowling would be a lot less
effective to heat the engine. It also would mean a higher temperature
under
the cowling and possibly too much heat on the engine electronic
components.
Remi
<<<<I want also thank you for your very informative article in the
Europa
Flyer.
I wouldn't=B4had expected an simple hairdryer that effective.
What do you think about using two dryers for each hole? >>>>
Juergen
http://www.m rel="nofollow" target="_blank"
href="http://forums.matronics.com">ht -->
<http://www.matronics=======%3cbr%3e%3cbr%3e%3c/font%3e%3c/
b%3e%3cfont%20col
or=>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Main wing bushings |
For the assembled wisdom
I have a little slop in the main spar pins when I put them into each bushing
separately - "a little slop" means when I wiggle the spar pins the ends move
about 1/32.
There is no slop when the whole thing is assembled and the pins are a light
push fit.
Is this normal?
Will
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Main wing bushings |
Sounds OK to me William=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________________
_______=0AFrom: William Daniell <wdaniell@etb.net.co>=0ATo: europa-list@mat
ronics.com=0ASent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 13:19:05=0ASubject: Europa-List
: Main wing bushings=0A=0A=0AFor the assembled wisdom=0A =0AI have a little
slop in the main spar pins when I put them into each bushing =0Aseparately
=93 =9Ca little slop=9D means when I wiggle the spar pin
s the ends move =0Aabout 1/32.=0A =0AThere is no slop when the whole thing
is assembled and the pins are a light push =0Afit.=0A =0AIs this normal?=0A
================ =0A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Main wing bushings |
Mine is exactly the same. In fact, I remember before doing the weight increase
mod I put one of the brand new bushes on the brand new spar pins and was surprised
by how much it wobbled about. But when the spars are rigged together (4
bushes in line) there's no play whatsoever when the pin(s) are through them all.
I think it is normal.
--------
G-TERN
Classic Mono
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327312#327312
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Main wing bushings |
First, the (black bolt)pins are undersize, (pip pins are spot on and the bu
shes =0Apretty good)=0AThe tightness is cause by miss alignment of the bush
es, both linear and angular. =0APoor jigging in the factory using the black
bolts. =0A=0A=0AAvoid using a reamer to line them up, if they are bad warm
up the redux and =0Aremove the miss aligned ones then rebond using better
size pins for jigging.=0AJust do this with the two wings, forget the bushes
in the seat back, they really =0Aare better with a loose fit because they
increase loads on the wings with G =0Aforces. THe glider wing is different
isn't it, (not seen one recently)=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A________________________
________=0AFrom: JonSmith <jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk>=0ATo: europa-list@
matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 18:51:28=0ASubject: Europa-L
th" <jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk>=0A=0AMine is exactly the same. In fact,
I remember before doing the weight increase =0Amod I put one of the brand
new bushes on the brand new spar pins and was =0Asurprised by how much it w
obbled about. But when the spars are rigged together =0A(4 bushes in line)
there's no play whatsoever when the pin(s) are through them =0Aall. I thi
nk it is normal.=0A=0A--------=0AG-TERN=0AClassic Mono=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead t
his topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3
=
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Main wing bushings |
Phew
J
I had visions of yet another rework
Will
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM
SINGLETON
Sent: 17 January, 2011 14:11
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings
First, the (black bolt)pins are undersize, (pip pins are spot on and the
bushes pretty good)
The tightness is cause by miss alignment of the bushes, both linear and
angular. Poor jigging in the factory using the black bolts.
Avoid using a reamer to line them up, if they are bad warm up the redux
and remove the miss aligned ones then rebond using better size pins for
jigging.
Just do this with the two wings, forget the bushes in the seat back,
they really are better with a loose fit because they increase loads on
the wings with G forces. THe glider wing is different isn't it, (not
seen one recently)
Graham
_____
From: JonSmith <jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk>
Sent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 18:51:28
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings
<jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk>
Mine is exactly the same. In fact, I remember before doing the weight
increase mod I put one of the brand new bushes on the brand new spar
pins and was surprised by how much it wobbled about. But when the spars
are rigged together (4 bushes in line) there's no play whatsoever when
the pin(s) are through them all. I think it is normal.
--------
G-TERN
Classic Mono
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327312#327312
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
_ent also available via the Web -Matt Dralle, List
Admin.======
Message 10
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| Subject: | Electrical Question (Basic) |
Just a couple of basic questions (my electrics knowledge is very basic)
I'm wiring up my new secondhand Rotax - upgrading my plane from a previously installed
car engine conversion. 95% of the aircraft wiring aft of the firewall
is common to both thank goodness but I have a question about the alternator switch.
My panel currently has a combined double battery/ alternator switch unit - one
of the red coloured double rocker type switch units exactly as found in Cessna
150's - in fact it has "Cessna" printed on the case. My previous set up had
a battery solenoid (still keeping that) but the car-type alternator output was
controlled by switching the field on/ off via the alternator switch. Thus both
switches had very low load through them.
My limited understanding is that the Rotax does not have a separate field like
a conventional alternator and so the output from the regulator must all go direct
to the positive bus via the alternator switch. My question is - can anyone
advise if this Cessna switch is man-enough for the job? - it has no rating
markings on it and I can't find it in any catalogues to check it's rating. (It
looks pretty chunky but size isn't everthing so to speak). Do other people
use these or is it best to have separate switch units?
Second quick question - the manual advises to connect a diode across the starter
solenoid coil. Do people bother to do this? If so, can anyone advise a neat
and easy way of physically connecting it. I have one and can think of several
ways of bodging it up but would much prefer a professional looking solution.
Thanks in advance - any help appreciated! Jon
--------
G-TERN
Classic Mono
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327315#327315
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Main wing bushings |
MY perception is that the bushings are quite soft which seems strange to
me
Will
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM
SINGLETON
Sent: 17 January, 2011 14:11
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings
First, the (black bolt)pins are undersize, (pip pins are spot on and the
bushes pretty good)
The tightness is cause by miss alignment of the bushes, both linear and
angular. Poor jigging in the factory using the black bolts.
Avoid using a reamer to line them up, if they are bad warm up the redux
and remove the miss aligned ones then rebond using better size pins for
jigging.
Just do this with the two wings, forget the bushes in the seat back,
they really are better with a loose fit because they increase loads on
the wings with G forces. THe glider wing is different isn't it, (not
seen one recently)
Graham
_____
From: JonSmith <jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk>
Sent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 18:51:28
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings
<jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk>
Mine is exactly the same. In fact, I remember before doing the weight
increase mod I put one of the brand new bushes on the brand new spar
pins and was surprised by how much it wobbled about. But when the spars
are rigged together (4 bushes in line) there's no play whatsoever when
the pin(s) are through them all. I think it is normal.
--------
G-TERN
Classic Mono
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327312#327312
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
_ent also available via the Web -Matt Dralle, List
Admin.======
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Main wing bushings |
At least then they will not "fret"
Cheers,
Pete
A239
On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 2:33 PM, William Daniell <wdaniell@etb.net.co>wrote:
> MY perception is that the bushings are quite soft which seems strange to me
>
> Will
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical Question (Basic) |
Jon
I was told not to bring the full alternator current to the panel to any sort
of switch. I have therefore used an engine bay mounted relay rated at 30amps
(I think) which I switch from an alternator switch on the panel.
Diodes I connected using AMP crimp ring terminals
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
On 17/1/11 19:25, "JonSmith" <jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Just a couple of basic questions (my electrics knowledge is very basic)
>
> I'm wiring up my new secondhand Rotax - upgrading my plane from a previously
> installed car engine conversion. 95% of the aircraft wiring aft of the
> firewall is common to both thank goodness but I have a question about the
> alternator switch.
>
> My panel currently has a combined double battery/ alternator switch unit - one
> of the red coloured double rocker type switch units exactly as found in Cessna
> 150's - in fact it has "Cessna" printed on the case. My previous set up had
a
> battery solenoid (still keeping that) but the car-type alternator output was
> controlled by switching the field on/ off via the alternator switch. Thus
> both switches had very low load through them.
>
> My limited understanding is that the Rotax does not have a separate field like
> a conventional alternator and so the output from the regulator must all go
> direct to the positive bus via the alternator switch. My question is - can
> anyone advise if this Cessna switch is man-enough for the job? - it has no
> rating markings on it and I can't find it in any catalogues to check it's
> rating. (It looks pretty chunky but size isn't everthing so to speak). Do
> other people use these or is it best to have separate switch units?
>
> Second quick question - the manual advises to connect a diode across the
> starter solenoid coil. Do people bother to do this? If so, can anyone advise
> a neat and easy way of physically connecting it. I have one and can think of
> several ways of bodging it up but would much prefer a professional looking
> solution.
>
> Thanks in advance - any help appreciated! Jon
>
> --------
> G-TERN
> Classic Mono
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327315#327315
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: www.europaowners.org down? |
Is europaowners.org still down? Perhaps I have a problem on this end?
Still building
Marty
--------
Marty Mason
Europa XS Mono
10%
Norcross, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327323#327323
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: www.europaowners.org down? |
yip, still down.
cheers,
Pete
a239
On Jan 17, 2011, at 3:20 PM, "Martymason" <captainmarty@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> Is europaowners.org still down? Perhaps I have a problem on this end?
> Still building
> Marty
>
> --------
> Marty Mason
> Europa XS Mono
> 10%
> Norcross, GA
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327323#327323
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Main wing bushings |
Good point!
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Zutrauen
Sent: 17 January, 2011 14:48
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings
At least then they will not "fret"
Cheers,
Pete
A239
On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 2:33 PM, William Daniell <wdaniell@etb.net.co>
wrote:
MY perception is that the bushings are quite soft which seems strange to me
Will
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Main wing bushings |
They are, they're aluminium alloy but hard anodized. That's why it's better
not =0Ato ream them=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______________________________
_=0AFrom: William Daniell <wdaniell@etb.net.co>=0ATo: europa-list@matronics
.com=0ASent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 19:33:34=0ASubject: RE: Europa-List:
Re: Main wing bushings=0A=0A=0AMY perception is that the bushings are quite
soft which seems strange to me=0AWill=0A =0AFrom:owner-europa-list-server@
matronics.com =0A[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
Of GRAHAM SINGLETON=0ASent: 17 January, 2011 14:11=0ATo: europa-list@matron
ics.com=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings=0A =0AFirst, the
(black bolt)pins are undersize, (pip pins are spot on and the bushes =0Apr
etty good)=0AThe tightness is cause by miss alignment of the bushes, both l
inear and angular. =0APoor jigging in the factory using the black bolts.
=0A=0AAvoid using a reamer to line them up, if they are bad warm up the red
ux and =0Aremove the miss aligned ones then rebond using better size pins f
or jigging.=0AJust do this with the two wings, forget the bushes in the sea
t back, they really =0Aare better with a loose fit because they increase lo
ads on the wings with G =0Aforces. THe glider wing is different isn't it, (
not seen one recently)=0AGraham=0A=0A________________________________=0A=0A
From:JonSmith <jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk>=0ATo: europa-list@matronics.co
m=0ASent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 18:51:28=0ASubject: Europa-List: Re: Mai
heuropa@tiscali.co.uk>=0A=0AMine is exactly the same. In fact, I remember
before doing the weight increase =0Amod I put one of the brand new bushes o
n the brand new spar pins and was =0Asurprised by how much it wobbled about
. But when the spars are rigged together =0A(4 bushes in line) there's no
play whatsoever when the pin(s) are through them =0Aall. I think it is nor
mal.=0A=0A--------=0AG-TERN=0AClassic Mono=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic on
line here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327312#327312
=0A=0A=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0A_ent also availab
le via the Web -Matt Dralle, List Admin.=======
=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A =0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0Ahttp
============ =0A
Message 18
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| Subject: | Engine preheating |
Kenlowe still make these in the UK (engine pre heaters), a bit pricey
though
at =A3300 or a German company Hot Frog also makes them ' advertised on
Ebay
for about =A390.
I fitted a Kenlowe heater on my car 20 yrs ago ' certainly very
effective in
the cold weather and claimed to halve engine wear (probably true). Pre
heats
the engine block to about 85 degrees C.
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Harrison
Sent: 17 January 2011 13:01
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Engine preheating
ONE of my volvo=92s had a mains heater system plumbed into the coolant
line
complete with circulatory pump and a thermostat. It=92s previous owner
was the
Service Manager for British Leyland which sends a mixed message if ever
there was one !
However it was very effective, quick and light weight,
Bob Harrison
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM
SINGLETON
Sent: 17 January 2011 10:55
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Engine preheating
Might be more effective to heat the oil and the coolant via the
radiators,
then hope for a bit of convection?
Graham
_____
From: Guerner Remi <air.guerner@orange.fr>
Sent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 9:26:54
Subject: Europa-List: Engine preheating
Juergen,
The key to the effectiveness of the described method is to force the hot
air
around the cylinders fins through the Rotax air baffle. Blowing hot air
through the two other holes of the XS Europa cowling would be a lot less
effective to heat the engine. It also would mean a higher temperature
under
the cowling and possibly too much heat on the engine electronic
components.
Remi
<<<<I want also thank you for your very informative article in the
Europa
Flyer.
I wouldn't=B4had expected an simple hairdryer that effective.
What do you think about using two dryers for each hole? >>>>
Juergen
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Main wing bushings |
Will, and others,
The play is because the black pins are undersized about .007 I think.
The main pip pin is about .499 so only a tiny amount of play is
available.
Normally, the oversized bushes allow what appears to be excessive play
when the wings are not rigged. When the plane is rigged, those sloppy
bushes get hard to align unless you were superman during the cockpit
module build up and got the fuselage and wing bushes just perfect. I
only have two aircraft that align so well, the wing pins slide in
easily, but that is only at 85 degrees and with the tips held just
right. Hotter or colder, or with an untrained assistant, it is tougher
to push the pins in. So what to do?
Since none of us is superman, I many times have re-aligned the bushes on
final wing rigging by heating my spare tapered black pin until just too
hot to touch, but not sizzle (180F), and ram it home. Let it set
overnight and the three bushes get aligned. Once in a while, I do have
to put my 1/2 inch reamer into the pilot side hole and knock a
thousandth off for a nice hand fit of the pip pin because of the tighter
tolerances.
Note: There is a good reason for using the pip pin when doing spar
alignment, especially on the glider wing retrofit. Unfortunately we
don't have the luxury of setting our own bushes with the short wings.
If we follow the instructions blindly and use just the bolts, you won't
quite get perfect alignment. So just heat the pin and help the bushes
align.
Please do not overheat your existing wing pin and destroy the heat
treating. At 6 Gs, you would not believe the shear load on that pin.
So don't rip everything out just yet, try a bit of heat and patience.
It's worth it.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: William Daniell<mailto:wdaniell@etb.net.co>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 8:19 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Main wing bushings
For the assembled wisdom
I have a little slop in the main spar pins when I put them into each
bushing separately - "a little slop" means when I wiggle the spar pins
the ends move about 1/32.
There is no slop when the whole thing is assembled and the pins are a
light push fit.
Is this normal?
Will
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avigator?Europa-List>
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Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical Question (Basic) |
Jon,
Note the electrical section in the build manual (Chapter 25) as well as
the Rotax installation manual, brings alternator power to the panel
through a 25 amp switch/switch breaker.
Like you, I am not comfortable with that.
The "Cessna" style split master switch is a low amperage switch.
Normally, no more than 5 amps.
Here are the options.
Wire the C lead of the regulator to the alternator side of the split
master switch and continue the wire to a 5 amp breaker on the main bus.
When the switch is off, the control circuit input of the regulator is
cut and the regulator shuts down. (See the Aeroelectric Connection for
wiring techniques.) Now, Ducatti doesn't like this, as the circuit
diodes still have power coming in from the dynamo. Normally, you fly
with the alternator on all the time, so in a single alternator system,
no problem. If you want the alternator power off, it is probably an
emergency and who cares about the regulator then.
The alternative is to wire the alternator side of the split master
switch from a 2-3 amp circuit breaker to a 30 amp automotive relay
switch. The relay will keep you from having high amps coming to your
finger. I use this method a lot, especially with the dual alternator
setup. See
www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
accessories/techniques section.
Notice that, the split master switch has a trick. Most of us want the
switch to be completely independent, that is, so one can select either
the alternator on or off and the master on or off completely
independent, but there is a small plastic tab that locks the two sides
together. So that both come on, but only one shuts off independently,
and the other shuts both off. I take a sharp Exacto knife and trim off
the small plastic locking tabs off and have mine completely independent.
Just a technique.
As for the diode, I have seen guys operate their planes for years
without it. However, it is a handy device. When the start switch is
disengaged, there is a slight chance that the field around the coil will
collapse and cause a reverse current called a fly back, and the diode
immediately neutralizes the fly back current. This allows the contactor
to separate cleanly and not do a quick open and close during the
disengage or hang-up which eventually will burn the start solenoid
contacts. It is an oldie but goodie that started in the late '50s when
the start solenoid and starter were in close proximity and field
shielding and wires were not as good as they are today. Our solenoid
has a really small coil and is well separated from other components so
the chance of a fly back is diminished, but not eliminated. Use the
diode and you should get a longer life out of your solenoid. Again,
reference an Aeroelectric Connection article
(http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric/articles/spikecatcher.pdf<http://w
ww.matronics.com/aeroelectric/articles/spikecatcher.pdf>)
Use a ohm meter or a low power test light to get the diode direction if
you can't see the markings and figure out which way the power flows.
You can make your own hookups and put a 3/16 inch terminal on the ground
end of the diode and on the other end wire the diode end together with
the start wire into a spade female connector which connects to the
solenoid blade. Cover with heat shrink. Hook the 3/16 inch terminal to
the grounded base of the solenoid (grounded to the battery or negative
terminal of course). If you get it backwards, you'll know real quick.
You'll fry the diode and perhaps see some smoke. My friend Mike says
smoke is when the electric genie is released and the magic disappears.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Europa Tech Assistance
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
(813) 653-4989
----- Original Message -----
From: JonSmith<mailto:jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 2:25 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Electrical Question (Basic)
<jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk<mailto:jonsmitheuropa@tiscali.co.uk>>
Just a couple of basic questions (my electrics knowledge is very
basic)
I'm wiring up my new secondhand Rotax - upgrading my plane from a
previously installed car engine conversion. 95% of the aircraft wiring
aft of the firewall is common to both thank goodness but I have a
question about the alternator switch.
My panel currently has a combined double battery/ alternator switch
unit - one of the red coloured double rocker type switch units exactly
as found in Cessna 150's - in fact it has "Cessna" printed on the case.
My previous set up had a battery solenoid (still keeping that) but the
car-type alternator output was controlled by switching the field on/ off
via the alternator switch. Thus both switches had very low load through
them.
My limited understanding is that the Rotax does not have a separate
field like a conventional alternator and so the output from the
regulator must all go direct to the positive bus via the alternator
switch. My question is - can anyone advise if this Cessna switch is
man-enough for the job? - it has no rating markings on it and I can't
find it in any catalogues to check it's rating. (It looks pretty chunky
but size isn't everthing so to speak). Do other people use these or is
it best to have separate switch units?
Second quick question - the manual advises to connect a diode across
the starter solenoid coil. Do people bother to do this? If so, can
anyone advise a neat and easy way of physically connecting it. I have
one and can think of several ways of bodging it up but would much prefer
a professional looking solution.
Thanks in advance - any help appreciated! Jon
--------
G-TERN
Classic Mono
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