---------------------------------------------------------- Europa-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 01/17/11: 20 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:02 AM - Re: Monowheel speed kit question (Remi Guerner) 2. 01:40 AM - Engine preheating (Guerner Remi) 3. 02:58 AM - Re: Engine preheating (GRAHAM SINGLETON) 4. 05:04 AM - Re: Engine preheating (Bob Harrison) 5. 05:23 AM - Main wing bushings (William Daniell) 6. 08:37 AM - Re: Main wing bushings (GRAHAM SINGLETON) 7. 10:54 AM - Re: Main wing bushings (JonSmith) 8. 11:13 AM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (GRAHAM SINGLETON) 9. 11:25 AM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (William Daniell) 10. 11:27 AM - Electrical Question (Basic) (JonSmith) 11. 11:36 AM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (William Daniell) 12. 11:51 AM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (Peter Zutrauen) 13. 12:07 PM - Re: Electrical Question (Basic) (Europa) 14. 12:23 PM - Re: www.europaowners.org down? (Martymason) 15. 01:14 PM - Re: Re: www.europaowners.org down? (Pete) 16. 02:01 PM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (William Daniell) 17. 02:47 PM - Re: Re: Main wing bushings (GRAHAM SINGLETON) 18. 03:55 PM - Re: Engine preheating (Carl Pattinson) 19. 06:43 PM - Re: Main wing bushings (Bud Yerly) 20. 08:27 PM - Re: Electrical Question (Basic) (Bud Yerly) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:02:25 AM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Re: Monowheel speed kit question From: "Remi Guerner" Bonjour Jean Paul, I had to rework my fairings too: heat with an hair dryer and slightly change the camber of the flange as required. Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327259#327259 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 01:40:04 AM PST US From: Guerner Remi Subject: Europa-List: Engine preheating Juergen, The key to the effectiveness of the described method is to force the hot air around the cylinders fins through the Rotax air baffle. Blowing hot air through the two other holes of the XS Europa cowling would be a lot less effective to heat the engine. It also would mean a higher temperature under the cowling and possibly too much heat on the engine electronic components. Remi <<<>>> Juergen ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 02:58:49 AM PST US From: GRAHAM SINGLETON Subject: Re: Europa-List: Engine preheating Might be more effective to heat the oil and the coolant via the radiators, then =0Ahope for a bit of convection?=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________ __________________=0AFrom: Guerner Remi =0ATo: Europ a-List Digest Server =0ASent: Monday, 17 January , 2011 9:26:54=0ASubject: Europa-List: Engine preheating=0A=0A=0AJuergen, =0A=0AThe key to the effectiveness of the described method is to force the hot air =0Aaround the cylinders fins through the Rotax air baffle. Blowing hot air through =0Athe two other holes of the XS Europa cowling would be a lot less effective to =0Aheat the engine. It also would mean a higher tempe rature under the cowling and =0Apossibly too much heat on the engine electr onic components.=0A=0ARemi=0A=0A=0A=0A<<< Subject: RE: Europa-List: Engine preheating ONE of my volvo=92s had a mains heater system plumbed into the coolant line complete with circulatory pump and a thermostat. It=92s previous owner was the Service Manager for British Leyland which sends a mixed message if ever there was one ! However it was very effective, quick and light weight, Bob Harrison From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM SINGLETON Sent: 17 January 2011 10:55 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Engine preheating Might be more effective to heat the oil and the coolant via the radiators, then hope for a bit of convection? Graham _____ From: Guerner Remi Sent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 9:26:54 Subject: Europa-List: Engine preheating Juergen, The key to the effectiveness of the described method is to force the hot air around the cylinders fins through the Rotax air baffle. Blowing hot air through the two other holes of the XS Europa cowling would be a lot less effective to heat the engine. It also would mean a higher temperature under the cowling and possibly too much heat on the engine electronic components. Remi <<<>>> Juergen http://www.m rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com">ht --> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:23:19 AM PST US From: "William Daniell" Subject: Europa-List: Main wing bushings For the assembled wisdom I have a little slop in the main spar pins when I put them into each bushing separately - "a little slop" means when I wiggle the spar pins the ends move about 1/32. There is no slop when the whole thing is assembled and the pins are a light push fit. Is this normal? Will ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:37:47 AM PST US From: GRAHAM SINGLETON Subject: Re: Europa-List: Main wing bushings Sounds OK to me William=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________________ _______=0AFrom: William Daniell =0ATo: europa-list@mat ronics.com=0ASent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 13:19:05=0ASubject: Europa-List : Main wing bushings=0A=0A=0AFor the assembled wisdom=0A =0AI have a little slop in the main spar pins when I put them into each bushing =0Aseparately =93 =9Ca little slop=9D means when I wiggle the spar pin s the ends move =0Aabout 1/32.=0A =0AThere is no slop when the whole thing is assembled and the pins are a light push =0Afit.=0A =0AIs this normal?=0A ================ =0A ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:54:41 AM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings From: "JonSmith" Mine is exactly the same. In fact, I remember before doing the weight increase mod I put one of the brand new bushes on the brand new spar pins and was surprised by how much it wobbled about. But when the spars are rigged together (4 bushes in line) there's no play whatsoever when the pin(s) are through them all. I think it is normal. -------- G-TERN Classic Mono Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327312#327312 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:13:19 AM PST US From: GRAHAM SINGLETON Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings First, the (black bolt)pins are undersize, (pip pins are spot on and the bu shes =0Apretty good)=0AThe tightness is cause by miss alignment of the bush es, both linear and angular. =0APoor jigging in the factory using the black bolts. =0A=0A=0AAvoid using a reamer to line them up, if they are bad warm up the redux and =0Aremove the miss aligned ones then rebond using better size pins for jigging.=0AJust do this with the two wings, forget the bushes in the seat back, they really =0Aare better with a loose fit because they increase loads on the wings with G =0Aforces. THe glider wing is different isn't it, (not seen one recently)=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A________________________ ________=0AFrom: JonSmith =0ATo: europa-list@ matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 18:51:28=0ASubject: Europa-L th" =0A=0AMine is exactly the same. In fact, I remember before doing the weight increase =0Amod I put one of the brand new bushes on the brand new spar pins and was =0Asurprised by how much it w obbled about. But when the spars are rigged together =0A(4 bushes in line) there's no play whatsoever when the pin(s) are through them =0Aall. I thi nk it is normal.=0A=0A--------=0AG-TERN=0AClassic Mono=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead t his topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3 = ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:25:16 AM PST US From: "William Daniell" Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings Phew J I had visions of yet another rework Will From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM SINGLETON Sent: 17 January, 2011 14:11 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings First, the (black bolt)pins are undersize, (pip pins are spot on and the bushes pretty good) The tightness is cause by miss alignment of the bushes, both linear and angular. Poor jigging in the factory using the black bolts. Avoid using a reamer to line them up, if they are bad warm up the redux and remove the miss aligned ones then rebond using better size pins for jigging. Just do this with the two wings, forget the bushes in the seat back, they really are better with a loose fit because they increase loads on the wings with G forces. THe glider wing is different isn't it, (not seen one recently) Graham _____ From: JonSmith Sent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 18:51:28 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings Mine is exactly the same. In fact, I remember before doing the weight increase mod I put one of the brand new bushes on the brand new spar pins and was surprised by how much it wobbled about. But when the spars are rigged together (4 bushes in line) there's no play whatsoever when the pin(s) are through them all. I think it is normal. -------- G-TERN Classic Mono Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327312#327312 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List _ent also available via the Web -Matt Dralle, List Admin.====== ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 11:27:37 AM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Electrical Question (Basic) From: "JonSmith" Just a couple of basic questions (my electrics knowledge is very basic) I'm wiring up my new secondhand Rotax - upgrading my plane from a previously installed car engine conversion. 95% of the aircraft wiring aft of the firewall is common to both thank goodness but I have a question about the alternator switch. My panel currently has a combined double battery/ alternator switch unit - one of the red coloured double rocker type switch units exactly as found in Cessna 150's - in fact it has "Cessna" printed on the case. My previous set up had a battery solenoid (still keeping that) but the car-type alternator output was controlled by switching the field on/ off via the alternator switch. Thus both switches had very low load through them. My limited understanding is that the Rotax does not have a separate field like a conventional alternator and so the output from the regulator must all go direct to the positive bus via the alternator switch. My question is - can anyone advise if this Cessna switch is man-enough for the job? - it has no rating markings on it and I can't find it in any catalogues to check it's rating. (It looks pretty chunky but size isn't everthing so to speak). Do other people use these or is it best to have separate switch units? Second quick question - the manual advises to connect a diode across the starter solenoid coil. Do people bother to do this? If so, can anyone advise a neat and easy way of physically connecting it. I have one and can think of several ways of bodging it up but would much prefer a professional looking solution. Thanks in advance - any help appreciated! Jon -------- G-TERN Classic Mono Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327315#327315 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 11:36:07 AM PST US From: "William Daniell" Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings MY perception is that the bushings are quite soft which seems strange to me Will From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM SINGLETON Sent: 17 January, 2011 14:11 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings First, the (black bolt)pins are undersize, (pip pins are spot on and the bushes pretty good) The tightness is cause by miss alignment of the bushes, both linear and angular. Poor jigging in the factory using the black bolts. Avoid using a reamer to line them up, if they are bad warm up the redux and remove the miss aligned ones then rebond using better size pins for jigging. Just do this with the two wings, forget the bushes in the seat back, they really are better with a loose fit because they increase loads on the wings with G forces. THe glider wing is different isn't it, (not seen one recently) Graham _____ From: JonSmith Sent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 18:51:28 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings Mine is exactly the same. In fact, I remember before doing the weight increase mod I put one of the brand new bushes on the brand new spar pins and was surprised by how much it wobbled about. But when the spars are rigged together (4 bushes in line) there's no play whatsoever when the pin(s) are through them all. I think it is normal. -------- G-TERN Classic Mono Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327312#327312 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List _ent also available via the Web -Matt Dralle, List Admin.====== ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:51:09 AM PST US From: Peter Zutrauen Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings At least then they will not "fret" Cheers, Pete A239 On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 2:33 PM, William Daniell wrote: > MY perception is that the bushings are quite soft which seems strange to me > > Will > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:07:18 PM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Electrical Question (Basic) From: Europa Jon I was told not to bring the full alternator current to the panel to any sort of switch. I have therefore used an engine bay mounted relay rated at 30amps (I think) which I switch from an alternator switch on the panel. Diodes I connected using AMP crimp ring terminals Regards Paul G-GIDY On 17/1/11 19:25, "JonSmith" wrote: > > Just a couple of basic questions (my electrics knowledge is very basic) > > I'm wiring up my new secondhand Rotax - upgrading my plane from a previously > installed car engine conversion. 95% of the aircraft wiring aft of the > firewall is common to both thank goodness but I have a question about the > alternator switch. > > My panel currently has a combined double battery/ alternator switch unit - one > of the red coloured double rocker type switch units exactly as found in Cessna > 150's - in fact it has "Cessna" printed on the case. My previous set up had a > battery solenoid (still keeping that) but the car-type alternator output was > controlled by switching the field on/ off via the alternator switch. Thus > both switches had very low load through them. > > My limited understanding is that the Rotax does not have a separate field like > a conventional alternator and so the output from the regulator must all go > direct to the positive bus via the alternator switch. My question is - can > anyone advise if this Cessna switch is man-enough for the job? - it has no > rating markings on it and I can't find it in any catalogues to check it's > rating. (It looks pretty chunky but size isn't everthing so to speak). Do > other people use these or is it best to have separate switch units? > > Second quick question - the manual advises to connect a diode across the > starter solenoid coil. Do people bother to do this? If so, can anyone advise > a neat and easy way of physically connecting it. I have one and can think of > several ways of bodging it up but would much prefer a professional looking > solution. > > Thanks in advance - any help appreciated! Jon > > -------- > G-TERN > Classic Mono > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327315#327315 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 12:23:05 PM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Re: www.europaowners.org down? From: "Martymason" Is europaowners.org still down? Perhaps I have a problem on this end? Still building Marty -------- Marty Mason Europa XS Mono 10% Norcross, GA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327323#327323 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 01:14:10 PM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: www.europaowners.org down? From: Pete yip, still down. cheers, Pete a239 On Jan 17, 2011, at 3:20 PM, "Martymason" wrote: > > Is europaowners.org still down? Perhaps I have a problem on this end? > Still building > Marty > > -------- > Marty Mason > Europa XS Mono > 10% > Norcross, GA > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327323#327323 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 02:01:29 PM PST US From: "William Daniell" Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings Good point! From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Zutrauen Sent: 17 January, 2011 14:48 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings At least then they will not "fret" Cheers, Pete A239 On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 2:33 PM, William Daniell wrote: MY perception is that the bushings are quite soft which seems strange to me Will ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 02:47:41 PM PST US From: GRAHAM SINGLETON Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings They are, they're aluminium alloy but hard anodized. That's why it's better not =0Ato ream them=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______________________________ _=0AFrom: William Daniell =0ATo: europa-list@matronics .com=0ASent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 19:33:34=0ASubject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings=0A=0A=0AMY perception is that the bushings are quite soft which seems strange to me=0AWill=0A =0AFrom:owner-europa-list-server@ matronics.com =0A[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM SINGLETON=0ASent: 17 January, 2011 14:11=0ATo: europa-list@matron ics.com=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Main wing bushings=0A =0AFirst, the (black bolt)pins are undersize, (pip pins are spot on and the bushes =0Apr etty good)=0AThe tightness is cause by miss alignment of the bushes, both l inear and angular. =0APoor jigging in the factory using the black bolts. =0A=0AAvoid using a reamer to line them up, if they are bad warm up the red ux and =0Aremove the miss aligned ones then rebond using better size pins f or jigging.=0AJust do this with the two wings, forget the bushes in the sea t back, they really =0Aare better with a loose fit because they increase lo ads on the wings with G =0Aforces. THe glider wing is different isn't it, ( not seen one recently)=0AGraham=0A=0A________________________________=0A=0A From:JonSmith =0ATo: europa-list@matronics.co m=0ASent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 18:51:28=0ASubject: Europa-List: Re: Mai heuropa@tiscali.co.uk>=0A=0AMine is exactly the same. In fact, I remember before doing the weight increase =0Amod I put one of the brand new bushes o n the brand new spar pins and was =0Asurprised by how much it wobbled about . But when the spars are rigged together =0A(4 bushes in line) there's no play whatsoever when the pin(s) are through them =0Aall. I think it is nor mal.=0A=0A--------=0AG-TERN=0AClassic Mono=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic on line here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327312#327312 =0A=0A=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0A_ent also availab le via the Web -Matt Dralle, List Admin.======= =0A=0A=0A=0A =0A =0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0Ahttp ============ =0A ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 03:55:29 PM PST US From: "Carl Pattinson" Subject: RE: Europa-List: Engine preheating Kenlowe still make these in the UK (engine pre heaters), a bit pricey though at =A3300 or a German company Hot Frog also makes them ' advertised on Ebay for about =A390. I fitted a Kenlowe heater on my car 20 yrs ago ' certainly very effective in the cold weather and claimed to halve engine wear (probably true). Pre heats the engine block to about 85 degrees C. From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Harrison Sent: 17 January 2011 13:01 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Engine preheating ONE of my volvo=92s had a mains heater system plumbed into the coolant line complete with circulatory pump and a thermostat. It=92s previous owner was the Service Manager for British Leyland which sends a mixed message if ever there was one ! However it was very effective, quick and light weight, Bob Harrison From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM SINGLETON Sent: 17 January 2011 10:55 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Engine preheating Might be more effective to heat the oil and the coolant via the radiators, then hope for a bit of convection? Graham _____ From: Guerner Remi Sent: Monday, 17 January, 2011 9:26:54 Subject: Europa-List: Engine preheating Juergen, The key to the effectiveness of the described method is to force the hot air around the cylinders fins through the Rotax air baffle. Blowing hot air through the two other holes of the XS Europa cowling would be a lot less effective to heat the engine. It also would mean a higher temperature under the cowling and possibly too much heat on the engine electronic components. Remi <<<>>> Juergen http://www.m rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com">ht --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 06:43:18 PM PST US From: "Bud Yerly" Subject: Re: Europa-List: Main wing bushings Will, and others, The play is because the black pins are undersized about .007 I think. The main pip pin is about .499 so only a tiny amount of play is available. Normally, the oversized bushes allow what appears to be excessive play when the wings are not rigged. When the plane is rigged, those sloppy bushes get hard to align unless you were superman during the cockpit module build up and got the fuselage and wing bushes just perfect. I only have two aircraft that align so well, the wing pins slide in easily, but that is only at 85 degrees and with the tips held just right. Hotter or colder, or with an untrained assistant, it is tougher to push the pins in. So what to do? Since none of us is superman, I many times have re-aligned the bushes on final wing rigging by heating my spare tapered black pin until just too hot to touch, but not sizzle (180F), and ram it home. Let it set overnight and the three bushes get aligned. Once in a while, I do have to put my 1/2 inch reamer into the pilot side hole and knock a thousandth off for a nice hand fit of the pip pin because of the tighter tolerances. Note: There is a good reason for using the pip pin when doing spar alignment, especially on the glider wing retrofit. Unfortunately we don't have the luxury of setting our own bushes with the short wings. If we follow the instructions blindly and use just the bolts, you won't quite get perfect alignment. So just heat the pin and help the bushes align. Please do not overheat your existing wing pin and destroy the heat treating. At 6 Gs, you would not believe the shear load on that pin. So don't rip everything out just yet, try a bit of heat and patience. It's worth it. Regards, Bud Yerly ----- Original Message ----- From: William Daniell To: europa-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 8:19 AM Subject: Europa-List: Main wing bushings For the assembled wisdom I have a little slop in the main spar pins when I put them into each bushing separately - "a little slop" means when I wiggle the spar pins the ends move about 1/32. There is no slop when the whole thing is assembled and the pins are a light push fit. Is this normal? Will http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 08:27:05 PM PST US From: "Bud Yerly" Subject: Re: Europa-List: Electrical Question (Basic) Jon, Note the electrical section in the build manual (Chapter 25) as well as the Rotax installation manual, brings alternator power to the panel through a 25 amp switch/switch breaker. Like you, I am not comfortable with that. The "Cessna" style split master switch is a low amperage switch. Normally, no more than 5 amps. Here are the options. Wire the C lead of the regulator to the alternator side of the split master switch and continue the wire to a 5 amp breaker on the main bus. When the switch is off, the control circuit input of the regulator is cut and the regulator shuts down. (See the Aeroelectric Connection for wiring techniques.) Now, Ducatti doesn't like this, as the circuit diodes still have power coming in from the dynamo. Normally, you fly with the alternator on all the time, so in a single alternator system, no problem. If you want the alternator power off, it is probably an emergency and who cares about the regulator then. The alternative is to wire the alternator side of the split master switch from a 2-3 amp circuit breaker to a 30 amp automotive relay switch. The relay will keep you from having high amps coming to your finger. I use this method a lot, especially with the dual alternator setup. See www.customflightcreations.com accessories/techniques section. Notice that, the split master switch has a trick. Most of us want the switch to be completely independent, that is, so one can select either the alternator on or off and the master on or off completely independent, but there is a small plastic tab that locks the two sides together. So that both come on, but only one shuts off independently, and the other shuts both off. I take a sharp Exacto knife and trim off the small plastic locking tabs off and have mine completely independent. Just a technique. As for the diode, I have seen guys operate their planes for years without it. However, it is a handy device. When the start switch is disengaged, there is a slight chance that the field around the coil will collapse and cause a reverse current called a fly back, and the diode immediately neutralizes the fly back current. This allows the contactor to separate cleanly and not do a quick open and close during the disengage or hang-up which eventually will burn the start solenoid contacts. It is an oldie but goodie that started in the late '50s when the start solenoid and starter were in close proximity and field shielding and wires were not as good as they are today. Our solenoid has a really small coil and is well separated from other components so the chance of a fly back is diminished, but not eliminated. Use the diode and you should get a longer life out of your solenoid. Again, reference an Aeroelectric Connection article (http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric/articles/spikecatcher.pdf) Use a ohm meter or a low power test light to get the diode direction if you can't see the markings and figure out which way the power flows. You can make your own hookups and put a 3/16 inch terminal on the ground end of the diode and on the other end wire the diode end together with the start wire into a spade female connector which connects to the solenoid blade. Cover with heat shrink. Hook the 3/16 inch terminal to the grounded base of the solenoid (grounded to the battery or negative terminal of course). If you get it backwards, you'll know real quick. You'll fry the diode and perhaps see some smoke. My friend Mike says smoke is when the electric genie is released and the magic disappears. Regards, Bud Yerly Europa Tech Assistance Custom Flight Creations, Inc. www.customflightcreations.com (813) 653-4989 ----- Original Message ----- From: JonSmith To: europa-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 2:25 PM Subject: Europa-List: Electrical Question (Basic) > Just a couple of basic questions (my electrics knowledge is very basic) I'm wiring up my new secondhand Rotax - upgrading my plane from a previously installed car engine conversion. 95% of the aircraft wiring aft of the firewall is common to both thank goodness but I have a question about the alternator switch. My panel currently has a combined double battery/ alternator switch unit - one of the red coloured double rocker type switch units exactly as found in Cessna 150's - in fact it has "Cessna" printed on the case. My previous set up had a battery solenoid (still keeping that) but the car-type alternator output was controlled by switching the field on/ off via the alternator switch. Thus both switches had very low load through them. My limited understanding is that the Rotax does not have a separate field like a conventional alternator and so the output from the regulator must all go direct to the positive bus via the alternator switch. My question is - can anyone advise if this Cessna switch is man-enough for the job? - it has no rating markings on it and I can't find it in any catalogues to check it's rating. (It looks pretty chunky but size isn't everthing so to speak). Do other people use these or is it best to have separate switch units? Second quick question - the manual advises to connect a diode across the starter solenoid coil. Do people bother to do this? If so, can anyone advise a neat and easy way of physically connecting it. I have one and can think of several ways of bodging it up but would much prefer a professional looking solution. Thanks in advance - any help appreciated! Jon -------- G-TERN Classic Mono Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327315#327315 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message europa-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Europa-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/europa-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/europa-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.