Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:32 AM - Re: Door Seal (Bob Harrison)
2. 03:09 AM - Re: Door Seal (Brian Davies)
3. 05:21 AM - Re: Door Seal (Paul Atkinson)
4. 12:27 PM - Re: Door Seal (Jeff B)
5. 04:01 PM - Re: flap drive pin engagement (JR Gowing)
6. 05:09 PM - Re: Door Seal (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
7. 08:00 PM - Re: Door Seal (Bud Yerly)
Message 1
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Hi! Jim
Personally there=99s no way I=99d be cutting the thickness
of the door cill surround down to fit the rubber. If you hold the rubber
in the place and use a rubber mallet then it will go on snug and tight,
without any flox or any means of gluing into place. I arranged the joint
to be at the rear part of the door and used a piece of plastic brake
tube to interlock into each of the rubber tubes with some silicone
mastic bridging the joint.
Regards
Bob Harrison \G-\PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jimpuglise@comcast.net
Sent: 09 March 2011 23:55
Subject: Europa-List: Door Seal
I am finally getting close to the end. Today I took out the rubber door
seal and started to look at putting it on. There is a diagram in the
manual that shows how it fits, and it makes sense. The rubber has a
small channel that should fit the edge of the rebate. Where there is
only a single ply, this works fine. Where the door frame is two plies
thick, the rubber is not flexible enough to get on. In this case, it
would seem that the edge should be cut down to a thickness that the
rubber will go over. A Perma-Grit or die grinder would do it. Do I
understand this correctly? Also, they do not mention how to fasten the
rubber in; it would seem to me that a little FLOX would be appropriate.
Is this correct?
END IN SIGHT!
Jim Puglise - A283
Punta Gorda, FL
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
Message 2
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I agree with Bob,
It is just like an old car door seal, with an internal metal clip. It
just needs persuading with a rubber mallet/ hammer. It will go on to an
edge up to 1/4inch thick if you are careful.
Regards
Brian Davies
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Harrison
Sent: 10 March 2011 09:28
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Door Seal
Hi! Jim
Personally there=99s no way I=99d be cutting the thickness
of the door cill surround down to fit the rubber. If you hold the rubber
in the place and use a rubber mallet then it will go on snug and tight,
without any flox or any means of gluing into place. I arranged the joint
to be at the rear part of the door and used a piece of plastic brake
tube to interlock into each of the rubber tubes with some silicone
mastic bridging the joint.
Regards
Bob Harrison \G-\PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jimpuglise@comcast.net
Sent: 09 March 2011 23:55
Subject: Europa-List: Door Seal
I am finally getting close to the end. Today I took out the rubber door
seal and started to look at putting it on. There is a diagram in the
manual that shows how it fits, and it makes sense. The rubber has a
small channel that should fit the edge of the rebate. Where there is
only a single ply, this works fine. Where the door frame is two plies
thick, the rubber is not flexible enough to get on. In this case, it
would seem that the edge should be cut down to a thickness that the
rubber will go over. A Perma-Grit or die grinder would do it. Do I
understand this correctly? Also, they do not mention how to fasten the
rubber in; it would seem to me that a little FLOX would be appropriate.
Is this correct?
END IN SIGHT!
Jim Puglise - A283
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 3
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Jim
It will help to ease it over the thicker parts of the frame if you chamfer
the edges slightly. Also, if you have some interior trim in place put some
thin adhesive tape along the frame edge making sure the tape overlaps onto
the trim and the exterior side of the frame to make sure that the trim isn'
t
pushed out of the way when the seal is pushed on.
Hope that is slightly clearer than mud.
Cheers
Paul Atkinson
On 10 March 2011 11:05, Brian Davies <brian.davies@clara.co.uk> wrote:
> I agree with Bob,
>
>
> It is just like an old car door seal, with an internal metal clip. It ju
st
> needs persuading with a rubber mallet/ hammer. It will go on to an edge
up
> to 1/4inch thick if you are careful.
>
>
> Regards
>
>
> Brian Davies
>
>
> *From:* owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob Harrison
> *Sent:* 10 March 2011 09:28
> *To:* europa-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: Europa-List: Door Seal
>
>
> Hi! Jim
>
> Personally there=92s no way I=92d be cutting the thickness of the door ci
ll
> surround down to fit the rubber. If you hold the rubber in the place and
use
> a rubber mallet then it will go on snug and tight, without any flox or an
y
> means of gluing into place. I arranged the joint to be at the rear part o
f
> the door and used a piece of plastic brake tube to interlock into each of
> the rubber tubes with some silicone mastic bridging the joint.
>
> Regards
>
> Bob Harrison \G-\PTAG
>
>
> *From:* owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *
> jimpuglise@comcast.net
> *Sent:* 09 March 2011 23:55
> *To:* Europa List
> *Subject:* Europa-List: Door Seal
>
>
> I am finally getting close to the end. Today I took out the rubber door
> seal and started to look at putting it on. There is a diagram in the man
ual
> that shows how it fits, and it makes sense. The rubber has a small chann
el
> that should fit the edge of the rebate. Where there is only a single ply
,
> this works fine. Where the door frame is two plies thick, the rubber is
not
> flexible enough to get on. In this case, it would seem that the edge sho
uld
> be cut down to a thickness that the rubber will go over. A Perma-Grit or
> die grinder would do it. Do I understand this correctly? Also, they do
not
> mention how to fasten the rubber in; it would seem to me that a little FL
OX
> would be appropriate. Is this correct?
>
>
> END IN SIGHT!
>
>
> Jim Puglise - A283
>
> Punta Gorda, FL
>
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>
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>
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>
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Message 4
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Jim,
As others have stated... A small rubber or plastic mallet and you're
good to go. Be sure to tap the seal deep into the corners...
Jeff - Baby Blue
On 3/9/2011 5:55 PM, jimpuglise@comcast.net wrote:
> I am finally getting close to the end. Today I took out the rubber door
> seal and started to look at putting it on. There is a diagram in the
> manual that shows how it fits, and it makes sense. The rubber has a
> small channel that should fit the edge of the rebate. Where there is
> only a single ply, this works fine. Where the door frame is two plies
> thick, the rubber is not flexible enough to get on. In this case, it
> would seem that the edge should be cut down to a thickness that the
> rubber will go over. A Perma-Grit or die grinder would do it. Do I
> understand this correctly? Also, they do not mention how to fasten the
> rubber in; it would seem to me that a little FLOX would be appropriate.
> Is this correct?
>
> END IN SIGHT!
>
> Jim Puglise - A283
>
> Punta Gorda, FL
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 5
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| Subject: | flap drive pin engagement |
David Park
Would you please quote what Service Bulletin No refers, and your kit
number so we can see if this concerns other builders?
JR (bob) Gowing Kit no 327 in Oz
Do not archive
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of david park
Sent: Wednesday, 9 March 2011 1:37 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: flap drive pin engagement
Replaced my bearing housings with heat gun, and turned bearing with mole and
levered with screwdriver on edge - no problem.
Dave G-LDVO
> Subject: Europa-List: flap drive pin engagement
> From: keesdebussy@hotmail.com
> Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 05:07:30 -0800
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>
<keesdebussy@hotmail.com>
>
> In my case the flap drive pins engagement comply with the service bulletin
on that matter but at the portside it is at the limit. So I decide the bring
it well within the limits and I purchased the special bearing housing from
Europa Aircraft.
>
> I have now a problem to remove the original housing and bearing from the
x-tube. The x-tube end was heated with a hot air gun (air of 600 degr. C /
1110 degr. F) but I could not get any movement of the bearing housing.
>
> Has anybody experience in removeing the bearing housing from the X-tube ?
Any ideas are welcome.
>
> Kees de Bussy
> PH-SBR
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333147#333147
>
>
>
>
>
>===============
>
>
>
_____
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 6
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if I can add my half cent, use a short straight lump of soft wood and a kno
cking =0Astick of some sort, (hammer, mallet)=0A=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A_________
_______________________=0AFrom: Jeff B <topglock@cox.net>=0ATo: europa-list
@matronics.com=0ASent: Thursday, 10 March, 2011 20:23:23=0ASubject: Re: Eur
k@cox.net>=0A=0AJim,=0A=0AAs others have stated... A small rubber or plast
ic mallet and you're =0Agood to go. Be sure to tap the seal deep into the
corners...=0A=0AJeff - Baby Blue=0A=0AOn 3/9/2011 5:55 PM, jimpuglise@comca
st.net wrote:=0A> I am finally getting close to the end. Today I took out t
he rubber door=0A> seal and started to look at putting it on. There is a di
agram in the=0A> manual that shows how it fits, and it makes sense. The rub
ber has a=0A> small channel that should fit the edge of the rebate. Where t
here is=0A> only a single ply, this works fine. Where the door frame is two
plies=0A> thick, the rubber is not flexible enough to get on. In this case
, it=0A> would seem that the edge should be cut down to a thickness that th
e=0A> rubber will go over. A Perma-Grit or die grinder would do it. Do I=0A
> understand this correctly? Also, they do not mention how to fasten the=0A
> rubber in; it would seem to me that a little FLOX would be appropriate.
=0A> Is this correct?=0A>=0A> END IN SIGHT!=0A>=0A> Jim Puglise - A283=0A>
=========================0A
======
Message 7
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Jim,
Everyone is happy with just whacking it in. Yes, chamfer the edge of
the frame so the bead goes on easier, but don't flox it in or glue it.
If the bead is really hard to get started over the flange, take a wedge,
cold chisel, or big screwdriver and open it up a bit, push it on to
start it spreading, then whack it. I use a black rubber mallet of 2
inch diameter face and tap away.
I'm looking forward to seeing you get airborne. You look like you are
really close.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON<mailto:grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door Seal
if I can add my half cent, use a short straight lump of soft wood and
a knocking stick of some sort, (hammer, mallet)
Graham
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Jeff B <topglock@cox.net<mailto:topglock@cox.net>>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, 10 March, 2011 20:23:23
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door Seal
<topglock@cox.net<mailto:topglock@cox.net>>
Jim,
As others have stated... A small rubber or plastic mallet and you're
good to go. Be sure to tap the seal deep into the corners...
Jeff - Baby Blue
On 3/9/2011 5:55 PM,
jimpuglise@comcast.net<mailto:jimpuglise@comcast.net> wrote:
> I am finally getting close to the end. Today I took out the rubber
door
> seal and started to look at putting it on. There is a diagram in the
> manual that shows how it fits, and it makes sense. The rubber has a
> small channel that should fit the edge of the rebate. Where there is
> only a single ply, this works fine. Where the door frame is two
plies
> thick, the rubber is not flexible enough to get on. In this case, it
> would seem that the edge should be cut down to a thickness that the
> rubber will go over. A Perma-Grit or die grinder would do it. Do I
> understand this correctly? Also, they do not mention how to fasten
the
> rubber in; it would seem to me that a little FLOX would be
appropriate.
> Is this correct?
>
> END IN SIGHT!
>
> Jim Puglise - A283
>
> Punta Gorda, FL
>
> *
>
>
> *
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