---------------------------------------------------------- Europa-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 03/16/11: 4 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:00 AM - SV: Purging a Rotax with an oil thermostat. (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen) 2. 02:27 AM - Re: DOTH Thu.17th Cambridge (Raymond Wren) 3. 10:46 AM - FW: Will Daniell's wing - not as bad as I first though (William Daniell) 4. 04:02 PM - Window Seals (jimpuglise@comcast.net) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:00:08 AM PST US From: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" Subject: SV: Europa-List: Purging a Rotax with an oil thermostat. Alternative to heating the oil to open the thermostat for purging the system after installing the thermostat: My thermostat is mounted on top of the right side footwell. I simply filled the "U" comprising cooler and both tubes with oil before connecting the tubes to the thermostat. Fill slowly through one tube until the oil comes up through the other, wait some minutes to see if topping up is needed before connecting. Hold both tube openings at same level, of course. The thermostat was not mounted in place when connecting the cooler side tubes to it. By holding the tubes vertically and pushing the thermostat pipe ends down into the tubes, air pockets inside the thermostat on the "cooler side" will be avoided or being very small. Best done with oil temperature as on a mild spring day, to assure easy flow through the cooler when filling the "U". Purge as normal after connecting the other tubes and fixing the thermostat in place. This worked fine for me, and was not a messy operation. Regards Svein LN-SKJ ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 02:27:57 AM PST US From: "Raymond Wren" Subject: Re: Europa-List: DOTH Thu.17th Cambridge Paddy, If the forecast morning mist clears and the low cloud base lifts then I will see you there. Just don't wait for me. Regards Ray N518XL (Tri-Gear Europa look alike) -- raymondwren@fastmail.co.uk ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 10:46:37 AM PST US From: "William Daniell" Subject: Europa-List: FW: Will Daniell's wing - not as bad as I first though For those that are interested Phew "things are never as good or as bad as they seem at first sight" - it wasn't as bad as I thought it might be.well not bad at all really. Bud as usual was very helpful. Yours Will From: Bud Yerly [mailto:budyerly@msn.com] Sent: 15 March, 2011 11:12 Subject: Fw: Will Daniell's wing Will, See Dave Goddard's comments below, and sleep well. Putting a wood plug in the existing hole is a bit fiddle and faddle, you may be better off using a bit of Redux in the hole. Mix about 20 grams of Redux. Start by using the raw Redux on a Q tip or small brush to thoroughly saturate the wood. Then flox up the the rest and fill the hole using peel ply and a bit of metal or ply with release tape clamped over the hole to keep it from oozing out. and making a nice flat cured surface. Put a lamp on it for the night to keep the temp around 30C or 100F overnight. Then let's start over. Use that bolt head in the fuselage C section and put a soda straw or tubing that will slide in line to the rigged spar. Use 5 minute or clay or some means of allowing a mark on the spar to show when the bit of straw or tubing slides over to make contact. That marks the spot for the wing mounted QD. Cut the straw if it is glued and drill with a small pilot hole dead square to the spar and progressively open it up. I begin in the shop with an 1/8 inch drill bit. Then leave the bit in the wing and re-rig. Check the alignment and then drill for home using an alignment jig to drill straight.. In your fuzzy photo's it did not look like you had done your spar to root rib layups (Chap 8-6), but I could be wrong. These need to be done before that spar cup and such is on of course. On the side where you are concerned about the bolt head recess or opening, you may use a spade bit of course or I have found that a Forsner bit works well. A Dremel tool with a flat topped carbide tip and a router attachment allows neat work also. Go slow and take your time. The difference in materials will make the spade bit, or any bit want to wobble. Finally, grind down your glass on that head side a layer or two to four with your die grinder. Feather the grinding smoothly at a very gradual angle. Only grind off your spar to root plies you added in chapter 8. Then apply a Bid Cloth patch staggered in layers of at least 1.5-2.0 inch overlap on the first with each layer .5 inches beyond the first for the full six layers and that will re- establish your spar to rib overlap. Of course you could grind more down carefully to the spar and reapply the two longest spar laps overlapping a couple of inches, but it is not necessary. The patch will be fine. Once you have the head of the bolt exactly where you want it, flox it in with Redux as the manual states and you are on your way. Regards, Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: David Goddard Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2011 5:15 AM Subject: Re: Will Daniell's wing Good morning Bud, Yes, I see no problems structurally: the minimum distance from the rovings to a correctly sized hole on a wing on-site here was 9mm and the shear loads which are constant along the tang have plenty of reserve at this section because the tang is widest at this point. Plenty of room to put a wooden plug in place with Redux and drill out to size OR, if you feel the skills to do this are lacking, then Redux would also be fine but a good and full bearing surface would still need to be achieved. It looks like the covering cloth has been damaged and so it would be necessary to make the surface flush and then put staggered patch covering cloths over the area. Hope this helps, but if you want to talk, I will be here all day today and tomorrow. Best regards, Dave G ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:02:08 PM PST US From: jimpuglise@comcast.net Subject: Europa-List: Window Seals Thanks to everyone for their suggestions regarding installing the window se als.=C2- I chamfored the edges as suggested and they went on easily with the help of a small piece of wood and a 16 oz gravitational amplifier.=C2 - It turned out to be a very easy job.=C2- Thanks to all. Jim Puglise A-283 --- FLYING SOON! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message europa-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Europa-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/europa-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/europa-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.