Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:03 AM - Re: Full swivel tail wheel (Pete Lawless)
2. 01:37 AM - Prop Balance (Richard Lamprey)
3. 08:11 AM - Re: MOD 56 Tri gear speed fairing Nose wheel (AirEupora)
4. 10:49 AM - Re: Prop Balance (Fred Klein)
5. 07:11 PM - Best device to ratify the Actual Fuel Flow on a 914 (Tony Renshaw)
6. 07:11 PM - Doors (Tony Renshaw)
7. 09:21 PM - Re: Full swivel tail wheel (Bud Yerly)
Message 1
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Subject: | Full swivel tail wheel |
Hi Erich
Looks good should also improve the handling in the hanger. What is the
difference in weight?
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Erich
Trombley
Sent: 29 April 2011 04:25
Subject: Europa-List: Full swivel tail wheel
Hi All,
Just a quick note to let you all know that I converted the stock Europa
tail
wheel to a full swivel unit. The ground handling has improved
significantly. For those not familiar with a full swivel tail wheel it
works just like the stock tail wheel with the exception that as the tail
wheel moves past +/- 30 degrees a detent is released and the tail wheel
is
free to swivel through 300 degrees. Wonderful! I purchased a Van's
tail
wheel unit sans tail whee and tail spring. Link below.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1290390847-482-22
5&bro
wse=airframe&product=tailwheel-assy
The conversion was pretty straight forward; consisted of cutting off the
end
of the tail spring, having the last 2" turned down to remove the taper,
and
drilled/reamed to secure the tail wheel assembly. Pictures attached and
posted to the forum website.
Erich Trombley
N28ET Classic Mono 914
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Message 2
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Jeff,
Let the spinner float in a tank of water, rotate it, see which side
gravitates down, then compensate on the other side with a weight of some
kind (eg washer) glued or glassed into the inside. Spin again, if it
spins without bias, its balanced, hey presto.
Richard
Europa 168, 5Y-LRY, Kenya
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: MOD 56 Tri gear speed fairing Nose wheel |
I'd like to thank Bob Borger, Ivor and Ian Rickard. I completed the landing gear
part of MOD 56 with their help.
I have attached a picture of the SK20 attached to the nose gear folk.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=338441#338441
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Prop Balance |
On Apr 29, 2011, at 12:27 AM, Richard Lamprey wrote:
> Let the spinner float in a tank of water, rotate it, see which side
> gravitates down, then compensate on the other side with a weight of
> some kind (eg washer) glued or glassed into the inside. Spin again,
> if it spins without bias, its balanced, hey presto.
Richard...excellent...straightforward and simple...
Why am I thinking you must be a technical consultant for the Harry
Potter films? :-)))
Cheers,
Fred
do not archive
Message 5
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Subject: | Best device to ratify the Actual Fuel Flow on a 914 |
Hi,
I am attempting to determine where my fuel lines will go within my tunnel, through
my Singleton Firewall, and then up to my 914, then what path is best for my
fuel return line to take to route fuel back to the tank, without going downhill,
and then back up again. This is hard without having the 914 out of its box,
which is why I'd like advice for where in the firewall I should cut holes for
my fuel hose. I am building a Bob Berube Conventional undercarriage, so I don't
have bungee cord to consider. I also see merit in having the fuel lines supported
within the tunnel, albeit I have 2 bulkheads to transit, the first is
an internal stiffener and dividing panel about 6" back from the firewall, and
another stiffening bulkhead an inch or so forward of the throttle, that links
internally within the tunnel the front vertical face of the thigh supports, where
my maingear is mounted underneath. This is to create a box section stiffener.
So, how high up can I run my fuel lines in the tunnel to exit Grahams firewall,
and then have enough room for no radical bends up to engine inlet positions?
Thanks.......also:
I am aware of Matt Draille's Fuel Flow Controller advertised on his home page,
and historically I recall others being available. I have only 1 Floscan 201B,
and they aint cheap, plus I don't have the said device yet either. If Matts is
the best, well problem solved, but I am wondering if there is a workaround, such
as an EFIS that will do this. How have others with a 914 solved this problem??
Thanks
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Message 6
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Gidday,
I am fitting my doors for the first time. I have NOT "snicked" them, or attempted
to alter their shape before installing the door hardware. It is in ! So, after
some adjustment to the door hinge tangs to get them to fit in the rebates
I notice my door doesn't fit the fuse. It appears to be too long aftwise for the
rebate, and also too long in the vertical, hitting the bottom of the fuse rebate
when pushed home. Has anyone sanded the aft vertical edge of a door to get
it to fit, or the bottom edge? I hesitate to do this as I know I have a history
of taking off stuff that I shouldn't, and its a real bugger to put back!
Is there a strategy to applying heat to the back vertical door stile to bend it
nominally more, and thereby raise it? Any advice on how to fit this up would
be appreciated, and I seem to have created a bit of a problem by installing the
hardware prior to shaping the doors, so most of Buds advice I have already
foolishly ignored, or overlooked. Any other takers??
Reg
Tony R.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Full swivel tail wheel |
Eric,
Have tried the same swivel on both the conventional and mono. Please
keep the lock up mechanism in tune. If the tail wheel breaks loose
unwanted, you're off to the races. In the mono, it is your only control
below 30 of course.
Quick story about my now deceased buddy Bob Knapp, one of the finest
stick and rudder guys I have ever known, but just a bit on the crazy
side. We had the conventional gear of Rich Semintilli's loaded near the
aft CG, which puts more load on the tail wheel of course, and Bob and I
took it out for a test run, and just for grins, I did a tail wheel
breakout test and applied half power with Bob Knapp and myself (about
500lbs with gas) and 25 pound bag in the back. I pulsed the rudder to
check the tail wheel and it was locked initially until I pushed hard
back to correct to the center line... I used the hand brakes to regain
control and lock it back in and Bob said that was a pretty aggressive
rudder pulse and it was normal for that to happen, even on his RV4s. I
handed the plane off to Bob for the takeoff so I could monitor the EIS
and all went well, we flew about 20 minutes checking the oil temps and
verify the oil leak was cured and came back in to land, I came around
and did three touch and goes and Bob did the full stop. Just as Bob was
about to touch the tail wheel first, we picked up a bit of drift from
the crosswind and the tail wheel broke free on the three point touchdown
and we darted off to the boonies. The brakes, rudder and
Rotax/Airmaster drug us off before we hit anything. The post mortem on
the tail wheel indicated the pin chipped off a bit. Figuring a
defective part, we replaced the pin and we tightened the tail wheel
breakout spring by replacing it with a firmer one as suggested by the
folks at Vans, but the extra force soon began to wear after the 20th
flight full of touch and goes (Bob liked lots of touch and goes). One
Sunday morning Bob was flying with a rather busty plussed sized lady to
show her what it was like in a small airplane, the tail wheel broke free
unannounced as he applied full power while still turning on the runway a
bit. She really liked the quick turns the plane would do, and said it
was an E ticket ride. Bob called me up and asked me to change out the
tail wheel back to the original.
If our main wheel was closer to the leading edge of the mean chord, it
wouldn't be as hard on the locking pin of the tail wheel in my opinion.
I like the Graham Singleton limiter better than the roll pin of the
original as it keeps you out of trouble when you get the plane a bit out
of sorts, provided you keep the stick back and pressure on the tail
wheel. However, you can't pull the plane backwards unless you have a
tail wheel caddy. I like the flat square shaped tire you have chosen as
it has more surface area and doesn't skip on those wet tar lines or
painted stripes as bad as our rounded original tire. If we could only
find someone who made a lockable full swivel tail wheel as was used in
the world war two fighters and trainers. Lock the wheel for takeoff and
in some cases landing, and leave it unlocked for ground maneuvering. If
I only had the time.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Erich Trombley<mailto:erichdtrombley@juno.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 11:25 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Full swivel tail wheel
Hi All,
Just a quick note to let you all know that I converted the stock
Europa tail wheel to a full swivel unit. The ground handling has
improved significantly. For those not familiar with a full swivel tail
wheel it works just like the stock tail wheel with the exception that as
the tail wheel moves past +/- 30 degrees a detent is released and the
tail wheel is free to swivel through 300 degrees. Wonderful! I
purchased a Van's tail wheel unit sans tail whee and tail spring. Link
below.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1290390847-482-22
5&browse=airframe&product=tailwheel-assy
The conversion was pretty straight forward; consisted of cutting off
the end of the tail spring, having the last 2" turned down to remove the
taper, and drilled/reamed to secure the tail wheel assembly. Pictures
attached and posted to the forum website.
Erich Trombley
N28ET Classic Mono 914
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