Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:28 AM - Re: Re: Fixing Cooling Ducting to Firewall (Richard Collings)
2. 01:55 AM - Classic Mono Trailer, 912 engine issues (Richard Lamprey)
3. 03:00 AM - Re: Can the Monowheel be suitable for the tarmac (Hans J. Danielsen)
4. 04:14 AM - Attaching Sealing Strips to Cooling Duct (MalcolmH)
5. 05:11 AM - Re: Can the Monowheel be suitable for the tarmac (stephan@scassel.se)
6. 05:19 AM - Re: Classic Mono Trailer, 912 engine issues (Michel AUVRAY)
7. 06:39 AM - Re: CS Prop Controller - manifold pressure. (MalcolmH)
8. 08:06 AM - Re: Attaching Sealing Strips to Cooling Duct (G-IANI)
9. 08:40 AM - Re: Re: CS Prop Controller - manifold pressure. (Frans Veldman)
10. 09:29 AM - Re: Re: CS Prop Controller - manifold pressure. (David Joyce)
11. 09:37 AM - Re: Attaching Sealing Strips to Cooling Duct (MalcolmH)
12. 11:24 AM - Where can I find pre Mod 33 details? (graeme bird)
13. 12:04 PM - Re: Re: urgent: 912S ignition failure (Bud Yerly)
14. 03:25 PM - Re: Where can I find pre Mod 33 details? (G-IANI)
15. 04:21 PM - Re: Where can I find pre Mod 33 details? (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
16. 05:00 PM - Re: Filser Radio problems (Bud Yerly)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fixing Cooling Ducting to Firewall |
Hi, I felt like you that the anchor nut should be mounted on to the inside
of the cooling duct, so that's what I have done. Its not a problem just get
the duct into position and drill right through making sure that centre is
above the rudder pedal floor.
---- Original Message -----
From: "MalcolmH" <mhendra@f2s.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 3:24 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Fixing Cooling Ducting to Firewall
>
> Thank you for all the responses.
>
> I think I understand what is intended now. Rather than reversed, the
> anchor nut is mounted on the outside rather than inside face. The shank on
> the bolts provided would be to large in this case anyway (1/4"). Maybe I
> don't understand?. Wouldn't you also have to use a washer on the inside of
> the footwell for the rivets to pull onto?
>
> I agree with Frans, this puts load on the rivets holding the anchor nut in
> place. Not sure that this is a good solution.
>
> I'll try and carry out Flying Farmers idea of using a bolt from the
> inside.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Malcolm Hendra (Kit 121)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340393#340393
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Classic Mono Trailer, 912 engine issues |
Greetings to all from Kenya.
Does anyone have the design or blueprint for the original classic
monwheel trailer, or similar? I would be grateful if you could send to
me.
Also regarding 912 engine issues, solutions may be not at all obvious.
I put something into the Europe thread a couple of months ago about one
of my carbs pouring fuel out, this coming back through into the plenum
chamber to leak out of the drain hole. I tried everything, carb
overhaul kit, new needle etc, nothing helped. Finally, out of
desperation (and from some windy airfield on the African plains), called
SkyDrive from a windy strip on the African plains. They said, as last
resort, check the carb pressure balancing tube from carb to plenum, is
it clear. I did, it was blocked by a small insect that had crawled down
it from the plenum chamber. Cleared with a piece of locking wire,
engine ran very sweetly, problem solved.
Best,
Richard
Kenya, Europa Classic Monowheel, reg 5Y-LRY
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Can the Monowheel be suitable for the tarmac |
Hi Ted!
Welcome to the Europa family. Your problems in handling your Mono wheel
on the ground must be a result of poor instruction during your
check-out, a problem which have inflickted this beautiful design in the
past - by ignorance or otherwise.
Just remember one thing: During ground handling the tailwheel must be
nailed to the ground at all times, PERIODE! In other words:
controllstick all the way back to enhance positive control. (OK - during
taxiing in windy tailwind conditions it's appropriate to ease forward to
let the wind press tailplane downwards). Stick in your lap goes for
take-off's as well. When at 35 - 40 kts ease forward just a little and
your'e airborne. On landing go for the classic tre-point at ALL TIMES-
easing all the way back after touch down. This goes for x-wind landings
as well.
You have absolutely NO lateral steering capacity as on conventional
tailwheel aircraft - like a Cub where you smartly turn around using your
brakes. Your ONLY positive steering below flying speed is your
tailwheel!!
Above all: Unlearn your tailwheel skills regarding the use of toe/heel
(Cub) brakes, and concentrate on the hand brake in consert with your
tailwheel steering. Taxi slowly until you get the hang of it (in
moderate to high winds always have a feel for where the wind comes from
and move ever so slowly!).
Accept wery little x-wind in the beginning and build up experience
gradually. A grassfield is also much more forgiving than concrete.
The Europa Mono is a marvelous design and a beauty to fly. Once you have
the hang of it you will love it! But be patient, and accept that you
have to be tuned to your learning curve. As always: Practice and
experience is the only way!
Cheers
Hans, LN-HJD #334.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ofanoa
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 9:02 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Can the Monowheel be suitable for the tarmac
Hi
I am a [proud] new owner of a classic Europa Monowheel from Rio Rancho
NM. Since there are no grass strips around here I have been working on
landing the Monowheel on Paved runway and found it very chalanging. This
difficulty planted some doubts in me as to wether the Monowheel can be
ever trusted to be safely, consistently landed on paved runways.
While somewhat rusty I have 200h+ of tailwheel time mostly in
aerobatic biplanes [Acrosport, Pitts] and monoplane [Sokhoi] I was
surprised to realized how chalanging the Europa Monowheel landings were
-[The first day it was with 12 - 15 Knots variable wind but the second
one was with calm wind]
I plan to take some more dual time but are starting to wonder if byond
the learning curve, would the Europa Mono ever be a safe plane for me to
fly around here and in x country [NM is a pretty windy place]
I would truly appreciate hearing the members feedback. I would also
love to find other Europa owners in my relative vicinity.
Thanks a bunch,
Ted I. Weitz
Rio Rancho NM
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| Subject: | Attaching Sealing Strips to Cooling Duct |
I believe there is an error in the 912S installation menu (one of many maybe!!)
As regards to attaching the Sealing Strips onto the cooling duct it states:
"Rivet sealing strip to the bottom sides of the duct using TAPK33BS rivets with
EUR011 load spreading washers to prevent the rivets pulling through the sealing
material."
The TAPK33BS are countersunk rivets and there is no way they will pull through
onto the EURO11 washers.
I think the rivets should be "TAPD46BS rivets". The diameter of these is perfect
for the EURO11 washers. The 914 installation manual has this.
Can someone please confirm this.
Regards
Malcolm Hendra (Kit 121)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341446#341446
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| Subject: | Re: Can the Monowheel be suitable for the tarmac |
Hi Ted,
Yes you can !
With right training and approach there is no problem.
Before I took my first flight in my Europa Mono I had at least 150
takeoff/landings with Cub. Numbers of hours on a trail dragger are not
important. Number of landings are.
Pete Jeffers came over from England and checked me out and that was very
valuable. Without a proper training course I have probably ground looped
at the very first flight.
The best advices, I can think of, are:
1. Have many landing on a conventional trail dragger first (you already have)
2. An experience mono pilot as instructor
3. Always land the mono with both wheel touching the ground at the same
time. Tail wheel slightly first will work if the airspeed is not too
high .
4. Aim for 55 knots on threshold. If you find your speed too high: Go around
5. Pitch attitude is important. Do not pull the stick fully back prior to
landing (as you do with Cub)
Memorize the pitch attitude. Make a reference between cowling and runway
when you are lining up for takeoff.
6. Takeoff: Always keep the tail wheel on ground. 30-35 knots release the
stick pressure slightly but keep tail wheel on ground until airborne
7. #6 is important when taking off in crosswind. Andy Draper told me
this technique and it works great.
8. First 100 landings: max 6-7 knots cross wind
When I approach an airfield that offers both grass and tarmac I always
land on tarmac: tail wheel has much better grip on tarmac then on grass.
Grass fields are often more bumpy then tarmac. But for the very first
flight grass is probably best.
Check that the control cables is tight connected to the rudder horn. Both
springs should be compressed about 8-11 mm.
REMBER: The tail wheel/rudder is the key control.
During my first four years with my mono I have conducted about 400
landings. Many landings that I am trying to forget but also many that I am
happy with. Europa Mono is not the beast many tri gear pilots talks about.
Mono is different and needs training. Just like your first bicycle ride.
Best of luck!
Stephan Cassel
LN-STE
Flying a mono is living. Everything else is waiting
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Classic Mono Trailer, 912 engine issues |
Le 30/05/2011 09:52, Richard Lamprey a crit :
> Greetings to all from Kenya.
> Does anyone have the design or blueprint for the original classic
> monwheel trailer, or similar? I would be grateful if you could send
> to me.
> Also regarding 912 engine issues, solutions may be not at all
> obvious. I put something into the Europe thread a couple of months
> ago about one of my carbs pouring fuel out, this coming back through
> into the plenum chamber to leak out of the drain hole. I tried
> everything, carb overhaul kit, new needle etc, nothing helped.
> Finally, out of desperation (and from some windy airfield on the
> African plains), called SkyDrive from a windy strip on the African
> plains. They said, as last resort, check the carb pressure balancing
> tube from carb to plenum, is it clear. I did, it was blocked by a
> small insect that had crawled down it from the plenum chamber.
> Cleared with a piece of locking wire, engine ran very sweetly, problem
> solved.
> Best,
> Richard
> Kenya, Europa Classic Monowheel, reg 5Y-LRY
> *
>
>
> *
Hi Richard,
I have many pictures details of the first trailer model, if you are
interested I send to you, contact me off this forum.
--
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
mau11@free.fr
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: CS Prop Controller - manifold pressure. |
Hi Carl,
I'm also considering a Woodcomp SR3000 with the Smart Avionics unit for my monowheel.
Can you let me know the specification of your prop/spinner and details of your
MP transducer.
Did you purchase yours from Kevin Dilks of Special Aviation Services
Regards
Malcolm Hendra (Kit 121)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341469#341469
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| Subject: | Attaching Sealing Strips to Cooling Duct |
Malcolm
You are correct in that there is an error on page 5-2 of the 912 manual.
The little insert drawing on page 5-1 is correct (as is the 914 manual).
Use TAPD46BS rivets.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: CS Prop Controller - manifold pressure. |
On 05/30/2011 03:35 PM, MalcolmH wrote:
> I'm also considering a Woodcomp SR3000 with the Smart Avionics unit for my monowheel.
If you go this route, consider buying the SR3000/W version, it has more
twist and matches better the Europa speed.
Also, you might consider to buy the 2 blade instead of the 3 blade,
because the 2 blade offers better speed and economy. You just save 50%
of leading prop edge plowing through the air. I have the 2 blade /W
version for my Rotax 914, and it offers superb performance and seems to
be a perfect match. No vibrations if you keep the carbs balanced.
I control this prop with the Smart Avionics unit which works perfectly
with this prop.
Frans
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: CS Prop Controller - manifold pressure. |
Malcolm, I would echo Frans' sentiments - go for the SR 3000 W! It is a
great blade with some 26 degrees of twist on the blade - which is ideal for
speeds in the 100 to 160 kt range, whereas the commonly seen blades of
Airmaster/Warp Drive, Arplast and ordinary Woodcomp props have only around
12 degrees of twist which leads to the central portion of the prop being in
beta mode as soon as it gets started. Changing from a Woodcomp SR2000 to an
SR 3000W absolutely transformed my cooling (which had always been an issue)
as well as increasing top speed and economy. Could let you have results of
comparative trials if you are interested.
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frans Veldman" <frans@privatepilots.nl>
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: CS Prop Controller - manifold pressure.
>
> On 05/30/2011 03:35 PM, MalcolmH wrote:
>> I'm also considering a Woodcomp SR3000 with the Smart Avionics unit for
>> my monowheel.
>
> If you go this route, consider buying the SR3000/W version, it has more
> twist and matches better the Europa speed.
> Also, you might consider to buy the 2 blade instead of the 3 blade,
> because the 2 blade offers better speed and economy. You just save 50%
> of leading prop edge plowing through the air. I have the 2 blade /W
> version for my Rotax 914, and it offers superb performance and seems to
> be a perfect match. No vibrations if you keep the carbs balanced.
> I control this prop with the Smart Avionics unit which works perfectly
> with this prop.
>
> Frans
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Sealing Strips to Cooling Duct |
Thank you for that Ian,
Of course I did look at that diagram but missed the rivet type!!.
Malcolm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341491#341491
Message 12
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| Subject: | Where can I find pre Mod 33 details? |
I am just filling in my LAA blue form to get the first permit and as I was not
the first builder I need to check that all the mods listed on the TADs have been
incorporated. Can anyone point me to them? I think they are as they would have
been incorporated as it was build between Nov 1994 and dec 1996. Main interests
are 11, 12, 13, 14, 20, 23, 25, 28 & 31.
I have done everything applicable since then.
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP
Build nearing completion
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341501#341501
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: urgent: 912S ignition failure |
Karl,
Education is the key, as I have found out the hard way.
Batteries are great if you like polluting third world countries and
china with heavy metals.
Plants like CO2. Our bodies need it for respiration.
Think of the children Karl.
Just kidding,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl<mailto:kheindl@msn.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 10:47 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: urgent: 912S ignition failure
Bud,
You said it all in a nutshell. I have been lucky I guess in not having
had a serious problem with my 912s, and that probably applies to 95% of
all 9xx users. I am also fortunate in having access to two Rotax experts
within easy driving distance, should I need any help. One is a Rotax
agent and the other is a busy flying school using Rotax powered Katanas.
The Canadian main agent in BC has also been very helpful, and the Rotax
website with many videos (subscription required) explaining how to
balance the carbs etc. etc. is extremely useful.
Maybe some day someone will come up with a breakthrough in battery
technology, and all these inefficient combustion engines will end up in
the garbage overnight.
Have a nice Sunday,
Karl
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: budyerly@msn.com
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: urgent: 912S ignition failure
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 17:41:53 -0400
Gentlemen,
My years are going to show, but we must understand and be consistent
in our opinions.
I have found it necessary to be fair. I hate them all.
Rotax is expensive, and has two carbs, two ignitions so multiple
troubleshooting problems and high prices.
Jabiru has cooling and induction problems, must run at 2700 rpm or
about 85% power to equal a 914 at 75%, and can't swing a prop bigger
than 64 inches, (not a problem for the Europa) but is less expensive but
needs a bigger gas tank.
Lycomings are heavy, leaky, inefficient, in hot cliamates like
Florida, and over temp the cylinder near the valves requiring top
overhauls,
Continentals need a drip pan at 200 hours, have similar problems like
the Lyc. and all one has to do is google lycoming or continental engine
problems to see there is no perfect engine.
Neither the Lyc or Cont make it beyond about 500 hours down here
without cylinders coming off for repair.
Car engines sound great, but airplanes need torque so you need a
reduction unit (duh, another Rotax type problem). You are doing engine
development rather than flying many times. The day they make a car
engine that can start up, idle out of the neighborhood and go full
throttle for 15 minutes then pull a 3000 pound trailer at 80 miles an
hour for 4 hours within 500 rpm of max and do that every day for 80,000
miles, I'll put it in an airplane. because that is what we ask of an
airplane engine.
So I prefer to be consistent, I hate them all equally.
Have a great weekend,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeffrey Roberts<mailto:jeff@rmmm.net>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2011 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: urgent: 912S ignition failure
<jeff@rmmm.net<mailto:jeff@rmmm.net>>
Not jumping on the band wagon but I'm having a similar problem. I
discovered sometime back this vibration that continued to get worse.
After many attempts at balancing the carbs and the sensenich carbon prop
I finally changed back to the warp drive 3 blade. I then had it balanced
but It was perfect. I balanced the carbs again and they we're almost
perfect. Still at 2800 to 3000 static on the ground theres this annoying
vibration. Maybe more than annoying as I don't want to fly with it.
Sitting at an idle static I decided to do a 1800 to 2000 RPM mag check
and noticed a smooth left / A mag but a rough running right B mag. Spent
days checking all the obvious stuff. Plugs, wires with a timing light
and still nothing. At this point I've had two Rotax certified mechanics
and we still have not solved the problem. Trying to isolate the source
we switched the 4 prong plugs going into the mag's and the vibration was
still on the B side. Finally we switched the 6 prong plugs going int!
o the coils and the vibration switched to the A or left mag on
check. Called Lockwood and they believe it's not in the coils but what
else could it be? Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm not only
frustrated but like Remi I wish I had a thirsty Lycoming hanging on the
front. Rotax may be light and yes I know most swear by them but for
me.... I just want to swear at it.
Anyone working on trying the new UL power on the Europa.
Jeff R.
N128LJ Gold Rush
On May 27, 2011, at 3:26 PM, Terry Seaver (terrys) wrote:
<terrys@cisco.com<mailto:terrys@cisco.com>>
>
> Hi Remi,
>
> I am afraid I missed the earlier parts of this thread, but I just
wanted
> to let you know we had loose wires that would normally be
connected (the
> insulation held the broken pieces in contact), and would only
break in
> the presence of vibration, or when we pulled on the wire. We just
ran
> the engine at idle and gently pulled on each wire that came into
the
> ignition bundle until the engine idle stumbled.
>
> If someone already suggested this, sorry for the duplication.
>
> Regards,
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-europa-list-server@ma
tronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Remi
> Guerner
> Sent: Friday, May 27, 2011 1:11 PM
> To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: urgent: 912S ignition failure
>
> <air.guerner@orange.fr<mailto:air.guerner@orange.fr>>
>
> Mike,
>
> I have been working on the problem almost full time for the last
ten
> days. I have not found any broken wire in the ignition system. I
have
> ordered a new ignition module and will test it as soon as I get
it.
> I will let you know what I find.
> Of course I regret the good old Lycoming of my previous plane: it
was
> using a lot more fuel but was a lot more reliable and required a
lot
> less maintenance time and money.
> Cheers
> Remi
> F-PGKL still grounded, courtesy of Rotax
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341222#341222<http://forums
.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341222#341222>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> p; Features Chat, http://www.matronnbsp; via the Web
title=http://forums.matronics.com/
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com<http://w
ww.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
_p; generous bsp;
title=http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
================
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
http://forums.matronics.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
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| Subject: | Where can I find pre Mod 33 details? |
I have attached an index of the Europa mods that I produced. Early mods
only applied to a limited number of aircraft.
I hope this will help.
I have copies of Mods 18 onwards if you need them. If you want to talk
about any of them give me a call on 01483 714096
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
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| Subject: | Re: Where can I find pre Mod 33 details? |
Hi Graeme
Here are some of the mods you are looking for:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=81777
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| Subject: | Re: Filser Radio problems |
Guys,
I guess I really have a dumb SWR meter in comparison to yours. It
allows me to measure if my antenna is tuned to the freq (all our
antennas bought on the market are tuned, only handmade ones aren't and
they are close (probably within 4-5% if you follow the instructions).
Radio systems work best when the antenna system's impedance
matches the transmitter's output impedance as closely as possible.
The meter's standing wave ratio (SWR) function helps you trim your
antenna
to the precise length you need for the maximum transmitted power.
The meter's field strength function helps you position your antenna for
the best coverage and determine the effectiveness of changes you make to
your antenna, antenna cable, and transmitter. We already know the tail
is a superb place in the Europa.
If you have a radio that you suspect a low power or poor transmit but
can receive OK, it seems that one can check with an SWR but you will
still have to get another antenna and compare if the installed antenna
is not working. Plus, you must get to the back of the radio and hook
up a jumper get the meter hooked in anyway. The SWR is not going to
tell me anything other than good or bad on the installed antenna, so get
a good antenna off the shelf and compare is what works fast and easy.
Finally, if you suspect the radio is bad, (you should have bench checked
it, but what the heck=B8 it is a new radio and my experience in 12
panels they all worked), so if you suspect the radio, you have to bench
check it anyway. An Ohm meter will tell you if you have a bad cable and
the quick disconnect com lead at your panel back is your junction to the
spare antenna and you have your quick and dirty check.
Check your dials if you want, but it isn't going to be any faster.
That's why I have the spare antenna and build my panels to pop out fast.
My com 25 pin D sub connection from the panel to the airframe can be
hooked to a jack for a separate com check in minutes right on the bench.
By opening up the firewall access hole, and hooking to the backup
antenna is the quickest way to satisfaction.
Regards,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: David Lewendon<mailto:davidlewendon@me.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 7:29 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Filser Radio problems
<davidlewendon@me.com<mailto:davidlewendon@me.com>>
Thanks for all the tips folks.
I will track down an SWR meter and check out the system.
I will let you know how I get on.
BW
David
On 29 mai 11, at 12:13, Frans Veldman wrote:
<frans@privatepilots.nl<mailto:frans@privatepilots.nl>
> >
>
> On 05/28/2011 11:09 PM, Bud Yerly wrote:
>
>> First check and ohm out your radio connections and coax attachment
to
>> your antenna. Check out the coax that the center wire and outer
>> shield
>> have no continuity.
>
> All too complicated and not necessary. Just borrow an SWR-meter, and
> see
> what it says. Broken wires, shorts, resonance problems, everything
> shows
> up with this simple test.
>
> There are many radio amateurs, find one and he probably loves to
> look at
> the installation of a real airplane.
>
> If there is anything else than the Europa recommended halve wave
> antenna
> in the tail closeout, I would scrap it and arrange such a halve wave
> antenna. Contradictory to common believe fed by marketroids, there
is
> nothing that beats a simple halve wave dipole for this application.
No
> antenna can have any gain over a dipole without introducing losses
in
> some area's. It is just like a light bulb, any gain you derive with
> reflectors and lenses will introduce dark spot in other directions.
A
> half wave is close to omnidirectional and only has two small "dark
> spots" straight up and straight down. Fortunately if you are
> overhead an
> ATC facility the "dark spot" is of no consequence as you are pretty
> close anyway.
> There is another reason to stay with a dipole: A dipole has a
certain
> impedance and it is exactly this impedance (50 ohms) that became the
> standard for the coax and output of the transmitter. Of course this
is
> no coincidence as the manufacturers know that the dipole is the best
> solution. Other antennas might have a different impedance, need a
> matching network (often built in and invisible to the user), and
often
> this matching network (consisting of coils and capacitors) breaks
> down,
> causing all sorts of problems.
>
> Just my 2 cents,
>
> Frans
>
>
>
>
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