Today's Message Index:
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1. 02:49 AM - Re: Fixing Cooling Ducting to Firewall (MalcolmH)
2. 04:14 AM - Re: Re: Fixing Cooling Ducting to Firewall (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
3. 05:03 AM - Re: Re: Flap cross tube (craig)
4. 08:06 AM - Danish KZ Rally this weekend..... (Bob Harrison)
5. 12:04 PM - Re: Re: Flap cross tube (Greg Fuchs)
6. 12:51 PM - Re: Flap cross tube (rparigoris)
7. 02:49 PM - Re: Flap cross tube problem (Troy Maynor)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fixing Cooling Ducting to Firewall |
Hi, I thought I'd update on progress of fixing the ducting to the Firewall.
What I found is that after positioning the ducting assembly onto the firewall according
to the photographs in the manual I indicated the available area for a
bolt using a matker pen. I then put an anchor nut in a suitable position on the
inside of the ducting within this space (similarly to the previous poster).
I then repositioned and drilled pilot holes into the firwall and what I thought
was through into the footwell. Wrong.... I have drilled thorough into the void
between the footwell and bottom of firewall. I cant positon the ducting in order
to secure through to the footwell.
I checked the initial positioning by offering up the lower cowling and it looks
perfect.
I suspect this anomaly is because I have the Classic fuselage and cockpit module/Firweall.
I cant find any documentation to support this. I do have the XS firewall
forward kit.
So in short the ducting will only be supported by the supplied brackets into the
front of the footwell. I suppose I could fabricate some further brackets to
support at the sides of the footwell if needs be.
Regards
Malcolm Hendra (Kit 121)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342391#342391
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fixing Cooling Ducting to Firewall |
Malcolm=0Ayou could put the anchor nut on the outside, (the same side as th
e ducting, =0Adrill the hole slightly larger to accept the boss of the anch
or nut) Not ideal =0Abut it works.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________
__________________=0AFrom: MalcolmH <mhendra@f2s.com>=0ATo: europa-list@mat
ronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, 8 June, 2011 10:46:28=0ASubject: Europa-List:
Re: Fixing Cooling Ducting to Firewall=0A=0A--> Europa-List message posted
by: "MalcolmH" <mhendra@f2s.com>=0A=0AHi, I thought I'd update on progress
of fixing the ducting to the Firewall.=0A=0AWhat I found is that after pos
itioning the ducting assembly onto the firewall =0Aaccording to the photogr
aphs in the manual I indicated the available area for a =0Abolt using a mat
ker pen. I then put an anchor nut in a suitable position on the =0Ainside o
f the ducting within this space (similarly to the previous poster).=0A=0AI
then repositioned and drilled pilot holes into the firwall and what I thoug
ht =0Awas through into the footwell. Wrong.... I have drilled thorough into
the void =0Abetween the footwell and bottom of firewall. I cant positon th
e ducting in order =0Ato secure through to the footwell.=0A=0AI checked the
initial positioning by offering up the lower cowling and it looks =0Aperfe
ct.=0A=0AI suspect this anomaly is because I have the Classic fuselage and
cockpit =0Amodule/Firweall. I cant find any documentation to support this.
I do have the XS =0Afirewall forward kit.=0A=0ASo in short the ducting will
only be supported by the supplied brackets into the =0Afront of the footwe
ll. I suppose I could fabricate some further brackets to =0Asupport at the
sides of the footwell if needs be.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0AMalcolm Hendra (Kit 12
1)=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.
=========
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Flap cross tube |
I used two counter sunk screws through the block with nyloc nuts and washers
underneath
I am heading down to pick up some HDPE right now and am hoping it will work
at least as well as nylon. I think someone else here had good results.
Afraid glue won't stick to either like it does with TUFNOL, though. Might
put them on the top side of the spar hole too. Hopefully, it will help
one-person attempts to align the wing pins so many times. How did you
anchor in the nylon blocks, a number of screws and some glue around the
edges of the block? New thread could be started here...almost (prob too
short).
Greg F
Message 4
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| Subject: | Danish KZ Rally this weekend..... |
Hi! All.
Anyone else intending a visit to this fly in ?
Don't forget the Wckenby (EGNW) event 18th and 19th weekend too.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Flap cross tube |
Ok, thanks for the help
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of craig
I used two counter sunk screws through the block with nyloc nuts and washers
underneath
I am heading down to pick up some HDPE right now and am hoping it will work
at least as well as nylon. I think someone else here had good results.
Afraid glue won't stick to either like it does with TUFNOL, though. Might
put them on the top side of the spar hole too. Hopefully, it will help
one-person attempts to align the wing pins so many times. How did you
anchor in the nylon blocks, a number of screws and some glue around the
edges of the block? New thread could be started here...almost (prob too
short).
Greg F
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Flap cross tube |
Hi Greg
On page two I have details of spar ramp install:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=31838&g2_page=1
Boy some portions were thin on my spar ramps, I liked using Tufnal and Reduxing
it in place. I used a router to get close and then a belt sander to complete
the fitting.
I found that making ramps for wing spar bushings and cowbell entrances really helped
out a lot and will keep the aluminium bushings in good shape in addition
to putting much less loading on the cowbells since the aluminium bushings will
no longer hang up on them.
I had an accelerated cockpit module. After a few trial attempts to rig the wings
the starboard cowbell broke looke. It was only Reduxed in place with less than
stellar scuff sanding. I reinstalled doing a much better scuff sanding job
and installed first ply of fiberglass wet out with Redux, then peel plied. Then
subsequent plies of glass were wet out with Aeropoxy. The aluminium aileron
bracket I used same technique, first ply Redux wet glass and peel ply, subsequent
plies glass wet with Aeropoxy. Heating the Redux with a heat gun once it is
on the glass helps to more easily wet out. Redux wet glass sticks much more
better to steel or aluminium than Aeropoxy wet glass.
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342434#342434
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Flap cross tube problem |
Greg and those interested,
I remember using a trick to line up my flap cross tube hinges so very long ago.
Don't recall every detail but it involved using AN bolts the size that the hinges
pivot on, drilled holes in them lengthwise, the diameter of some twine or
fishing line that was very strong, threading the line through the hinges and
pulling it tight between both the flaps, letting the already reduxed hinges and
spacers align themselves. Pack a good fillet of redux around the hinge mounts
and left it to cure. Maybe you can figure out what else I did or come up with
your own way. The key though was letting the hinges self align on the wet redux
so that the string was absolutely straight.
Troy Maynor
Europa Monowheel Classic #120
96 hours and climbing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342444#342444
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