Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:11 AM - Re: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs (G-IANI)
2. 07:59 AM - WAS Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs NOW Dynon Autopilot (Rob Housman)
3. 07:59 AM - Re: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs (Rob Housman)
4. 10:20 AM - Re: Maximum All Up Weights (petros)
5. 02:17 PM - Re: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs (Bud Yerly)
6. 02:27 PM - Re: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs (Bud Yerly)
Message 1
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Subject: | Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs |
Bud
After I replied to the e-mail last night, I realised that Mod 71 issue 3
is, in fact, sitting on Andy Draper's desk at the LAA. Andy has had it
since May but, despite chasing, has yet to come back with the formal
approval. The same applies to the revised mods 75 & 76.
I think it would be helpful if I added your notes to the Mod 71
documentation. If you are happy with this I will send you a revised draft
in a few day. When you are happy I will pass to LAA for formal approval.
Out of interest, why was the forward, top, inboard corner of the stbd foot
well removed in the attached picture?
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 2
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Subject: | Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs |
NOW Dynon Autopilot
Thanks again Ian.
I am about to install the Dynon servos but lacking your update to the Mod, I
compared the Dynon SV32 to the TruTrak B servo and having concluded that
they are almost identical I came up with the attached mounting scheme. I
would appreciate your comments and a copy of the Mod 75 and Mod 76
revisions. I designed and fabricated all of the mounting hardware to suit
the Dynon servo since the factory did not offer a Mod - if you'd like I will
send you the detailed drawings.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics soon
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of G-IANI
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with
springs
Rob
At this moment I am the only source of issue 3. At Europa's request (David
Goddard said he was too busy) I had it approved by the LAA. I have passed
the factory the master copy but as yet they have not got round to putting it
up. Mod 77 (Push rod rudder drive) and Mod 78 (Glider wing fix) have gone
up recently but the revised versions of 75 and 76 (which include the Dynon
servos) are not up yet.
The opening for the tube to pass into the spring hook is a bit tight. It is
perfectly OK to take off the inside corner to allow the tube in as Jeff B
suggested.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 3
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Subject: | Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs |
Thanks for the detailed reply.
In the May 2006 version of the Mod it looks like the openings face aft but
in the 2011 version the opening is forward. I elected to use the latest
version for guidance. The Landing Gear Frame in my kit has several
additional members so there is not much room for the upper hooks to move in
either direction - they are trapped between two narrowly spaced tubes.
In my case your other suggestions about getting the springs in place don't
apply since I am doing Mod 71 right after Mod 72, so the engine is on the
floor and not in the way. I also eliminated most of the hassle getting the
springs in place by removing the tie wires and the four bolts on the pillow
blocks that are the pivot points for the nose gear arm. With the leg free
to move a bit (still restrained by the safety cable) I could get the lower
hooks in place with minimum fuss.
Of course, with the engine on the floor that leaves me to contemplate how to
load the springs with sufficient force to remove the spacers.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics soon
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud Yerly
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with
springs
Description: cid:image002.jpg@01CC6618.7F05B330Description:
cid:image003.jpg@01CC6618.7F05B330Photo E-mail
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=play&resid=2
161856909618AA7!136&type=5&authkey=KzlAF!wKhQk%24> View slideshow |
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=downloadphot
os&resid=2161856909618AA7!136&type=5&authkey=KzlAF!wKhQk%24> Download images
Rob,
Attached is a drawing of how I round off my springs and a photo of how we
keep the spring from grinding into the steel frame by using small bits of
stainless.
Note that I install the springs with the openning forward. Please note the
left and right hand wind requires you to place the springs so that they do
not rub against the center tube.
The springs can be installed facing aft but the last snap in is a bit
difficult unless the entire wheel well is open or you are very strong.
Forgive me that I do not have my tech article on how to install the springs
any longer as folks were just not having problems and it went to archive
somewhere. Bob Borger and Gary Leinberger may have photo's of us doing
theirs if you ask..
Please round over the spring as per the drawing to make snapping the spring
over the top tube less painful. You may do the lower part as well.
One indispensible tool is a piece of stainless cable with handles on both
ends to snap the spring up and over the top. I have one of the guys
standing on the wheel well and pull it up to snap in the spring over the
upper tube. Then he bounces on the front until the 5/16 and 1/4 inch bolts
fall out.
The other nice to have tool is a set of threaded rods with a couple of
curved ends to help hold the gear up while I install, but rope or a strap
works also...I just like steel to protect me from a rope brake or strap
slip. It takes me with two helpers (for added weight), about 45 minutes to
install the springs.
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=play&resid=2
161856909618AA7!137&parid=2161856909618AA7!136&type=1&authkey=KzlAF!wKhQk%24
> Description: cid:image004.jpg@01CC6618.7F05B330
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=play&resid=2
161856909618AA7!138&parid=2161856909618AA7!136&type=1&authkey=KzlAF!wKhQk%24
> Description: cid:image005.jpg@01CC6618.7F05B330
Small pieces of stainless between the spring and frame glued in or just set
in sealant will keep the spring from scratching up your frame and rusting
later on. Even with an engine on you can see that putting a cable through
the hook on the spring and pulling from above is an easy safe method to snap
the spring in. Technique: I normally put the engine on to add weight when
I am doing this operation alone. I put a strap around the gearbox and nose
gear leg to pull the spring a bit to get the bolts to fall out then repeat.
Please use safety precautions so as not to injure yourself when stretching
and installing the springs and you will find it is an easy install.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Europa Tech Advisor
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
www.customflightcreations.com <http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
(813) 653-4989
----- Original Message -----
From: G-IANI <mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 5:28 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with
springs
Rob
I have attached a copy of Mod 71 issue 3 for information.
The radius of the upper hook should be 38mm to fit the frame tube ( the
lower is 32mm).
I am not aware of any batch of springs which have been out of tolerance. If
yours are please let Europa know.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Housman
Sent: 27 August 2011 21:24
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with
springs
I've encountered another one of those "minor" problems I have come to accept
as normal with the factory's step child, the Tri-Gear.
The diameter of the Landing Gear Frame is 1.55 inch (39.4 mm) and the
opening in the spring that must hook onto it is 1.35 inch (34.3 mm). This
seems to allow for either of two solutions, neither one particularly
elegant. 1) use brute force to deform the hook in the spring, 2) cut off
some of the end of the hook.
Comments and suggestions from those who have perhaps already dealt with
this, or anyone else for that matter, would be greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics soon
These photos will be available on SkyDrive for 30 days. To learn more about
SkyDrive, click <http://g.msn.com/1cl91enus/PMFooter> here.
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E-mail, <http://g.msn.com/0PHenus1/29> join MSN.
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Maximum All Up Weights |
Greetings,
My aircraft is G-DEBR a Trigear, kit 232, 120 hrs. flown, 874.5
lbs. empty, max wt. 1370 lbs, C of G limits 58 to 62.5 inches, max baggage 80lbs.,
typical load 1185 lbs. and max wt. flown occasionally 1365 lbs.
Hope this helps,
Peter
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350927#350927
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs |
Ian,
I am sure they are working as fast as they can.. I do not get into the
loop on the finals of these mods as I am not the only person putting in
changes. I would like to see the final issues sent to Andy if it is not
too much trouble. Different folks are responsible for different mods so
I am not privy to all the final touches until the Gods at the LAA pass
judgment I'm afraid I just am too much of a maverick and "git 'er
done", rather than mother may I.
The clearance was necessary for a Jason Parker Fuel injected Rotax and a
specialized frame for a 50 amp alternator that belt drives off the rear
of the crank shaft and the alternator bracket didn't quite fit... We
measured three times and it just was a little too tight, so I needed
another 1/2 inch. Those little compromises we make for clearances. By
putting the alternator off a belt drive, the maintenance and access in
the engine compartment is superb, but the frame is a proprietary frame,
similar to the Rotax frame, but modified for clearances for the belt...
Regards,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: G-IANI<mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 4:07 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement
with springs
Bud
After I replied to the e-mail last night, I realised that Mod 71
issue 3 is, in fact, sitting on Andy Draper's desk at the LAA. Andy has
had it since May but, despite chasing, has yet to come back with the
formal approval. The same applies to the revised mods 75 & 76.
I think it would be helpful if I added your notes to the Mod 71
documentation. If you are happy with this I will send you a revised
draft in a few day. When you are happy I will pass to LAA for formal
approval.
Out of interest, why was the forward, top, inboard corner of the stbd
foot well removed in the attached picture?
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 6
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|
Subject: | Re: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs |
Rob,
There isn't much room but it is sufficient with the hooks forward in the
2011 (which I still haven't seen final) version which is how I do the
mod. If you don't have the engine, make friends with three 200 lb.
agile guys to spring things into action.
I am surprised that you don't leave the gear leg attached final as it is
quite easy to snap the spring into place even working alone. As Bob
Borger indicated in his email it takes a bit of rounding of the spring
end, and a bit of a pull to get them in. One thing that was not
forwarded though is I use a few 5/16 inch bolts to help lengthen the
spring. Hopefully Bob's photo album shows that we took the time to prep
and make sure the spring was dead straight.
I have an unfair advantage that I have done many of these and frankly
miss what I consider is obvious, which is not.
Apologies for leaving that info out.
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Housman<mailto:rob@hyperion-ef.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 10:55 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement
with springs
Thanks for the detailed reply.
In the May 2006 version of the Mod it looks like the openings face
aft but in the 2011 version the opening is forward. I elected to use
the latest version for guidance. The Landing Gear Frame in my kit has
several additional members so there is not much room for the upper hooks
to move in either direction - they are trapped between two narrowly
spaced tubes.
In my case your other suggestions about getting the springs in place
don't apply since I am doing Mod 71 right after Mod 72, so the engine is
on the floor and not in the way. I also eliminated most of the hassle
getting the springs in place by removing the tie wires and the four
bolts on the pillow blocks that are the pivot points for the nose gear
arm. With the leg free to move a bit (still restrained by the safety
cable) I could get the lower hooks in place with minimum fuss.
Of course, with the engine on the floor that leaves me to contemplate
how to load the springs with sufficient force to remove the spacers.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics soon
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud Yerly
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 3:52 PM
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement
with springs
Photo E-mail
View slideshow
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=play&
resid=2161856909618AA7!136&type=5&authkey=KzlAF!wKhQk%24>|
Download images
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=downl
oadphotos&resid=2161856909618AA7!136&type=5&authkey=KzlAF!wKhQk%24>
Rob,
Attached is a drawing of how I round off my springs and a photo of how
we keep the spring from grinding into the steel frame by using small
bits of stainless.
Note that I install the springs with the openning forward. Please
note the left and right hand wind requires you to place the springs so
that they do not rub against the center tube.
The springs can be installed facing aft but the last snap in is a bit
difficult unless the entire wheel well is open or you are very strong.
Forgive me that I do not have my tech article on how to install the
springs any longer as folks were just not having problems and it went to
archive somewhere. Bob Borger and Gary Leinberger may have photo's of
us doing theirs if you ask..
Please round over the spring as per the drawing to make snapping the
spring over the top tube less painful. You may do the lower part as
well.
One indispensible tool is a piece of stainless cable with handles on
both ends to snap the spring up and over the top. I have one of the
guys standing on the wheel well and pull it up to snap in the spring
over the upper tube. Then he bounces on the front until the 5/16 and
1/4 inch bolts fall out.
The other nice to have tool is a set of threaded rods with a couple of
curved ends to help hold the gear up while I install, but rope or a
strap works also...I just like steel to protect me from a rope brake or
strap slip. It takes me with two helpers (for added weight), about 45
minutes to install the springs.
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=play&
resid=2161856909618AA7!137&parid=2161856909618AA7!136&type=1&authke
y=KzlAF!wKhQk%24>
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=play&
resid=2161856909618AA7!138&parid=2161856909618AA7!136&type=1&authke
y=KzlAF!wKhQk%24>
Small pieces of stainless between the spring and frame glued in
or just set in sealant will keep the spring from scratching up your
frame and rusting later on. Even with an engine on you can see that
putting a cable through the hook on the spring and pulling from above is
an easy safe method to snap the spring in. Technique: I normally put
the engine on to add weight when I am doing this operation alone. I put
a strap around the gearbox and nose gear leg to pull the spring a bit to
get the bolts to fall out then repeat.
Please use safety precautions so as not to injure yourself when
stretching and installing the springs and you will find it is an easy
install.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Europa Tech Advisor
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
(813) 653-4989
----- Original Message -----
From: G-IANI<mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 5:28 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement
with springs
Rob
I have attached a copy of Mod 71 issue 3 for information.
The radius of the upper hook should be 38mm to fit the frame tube (
the lower is 32mm).
I am not aware of any batch of springs which have been out of
tolerance. If yours are please let Europa know.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com<mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com>
From:
owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-europa-list-server@ma
tronics.com>
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]<mailto:[mailto:owner-euro
pa-list-server@matronics.com]> On Behalf Of Rob Housman
Sent: 27 August 2011 21:24
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement
with springs
I've encountered another one of those "minor" problems I have come
to accept as normal with the factory's step child, the Tri-Gear.
The diameter of the Landing Gear Frame is 1.55 inch (39.4 mm) and
the opening in the spring that must hook onto it is 1.35 inch (34.3 mm).
This seems to allow for either of two solutions, neither one
particularly elegant. 1) use brute force to deform the hook in the
spring, 2) cut off some of the end of the hook.
Comments and suggestions from those who have perhaps already dealt
with this, or anyone else for that matter, would be greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics soon
These photos will be available on SkyDrive for 30 days. To learn more
about SkyDrive, click here<http://g.msn.com/1cl91enus/PMFooter>.
To share high quality pictures with your friends and family using MSN
Photo E-mail, join MSN<http://g.msn.com/0PHenus1/29>.
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