Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:36 AM - Spar bolts tight (graeme bird)
2. 10:46 AM - Re: Spar bolts tight (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
3. 12:56 PM - Araldite 420 A (Peter Timm)
4. 01:14 PM - Re: Spar bolts tight (stephen vestuti)
5. 03:29 PM - Re: Spar bolts tight (John Heykoop)
6. 06:49 PM - Re: Araldite 420 A (duanefamly@aol.com)
7. 09:24 PM - Re: Spar bolts tight (Bud Yerly)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Spar bolts tight |
My paperwork is in for flight test approval but I find the spar bolts very hard
to get in particularly now as I have trimmed the starboard one to length and
no longer have a long feathered end to pull it in and also have put the spar strap
on.
It seems to be a job pulling in the last mm and I wondered if anyone has used straps
and a ratchet ?
Also I find the stabilizers hard to get on and off, again its the last half inch
or so - the pins seem tight and there is nothing much to push on.
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP
Build nearing completion
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351902#351902
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Spar bolts tight |
Graem=0Athe T/P pins need to be exactly parallel with the tube, get a lengt
h of 1/4" =0Abore tube and use it carefully to check alignment then bend th
em straight.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AF
rom: graeme bird <graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>=0ATo: europa-list@matronics.com=0ASen
t: Saturday, 10 September, 2011 18:33:02=0ASubject: Europa-List: Spar bolts
co.uk>=0A=0AMy paperwork is in for flight test approval but I find the spar
bolts very hard =0Ato get in particularly now as I have trimmed the starbo
ard one to length and no =0Alonger have a long feathered end to pull it in
and also have put the spar strap =0Aon.=0AIt seems to be a job pulling in t
he last mm and I wondered if anyone has used =0Astraps and a ratchet ? =0A
=0AAlso I find the stabilizers hard to get on and off, again its the last h
alf inch =0Aor so - the pins seem tight and there is nothing much to push o
n.=0A=0A--------=0AGraeme Bird=0AG-UMPY=0AMono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp
drive FP=0ABuild nearing completion=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online he
re:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351902#351902=0A=0A
====================
Message 3
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Hi All,
following my recent twisting of the tail-wheel spring-arm I had to
remove the same from the fuselage, which turned out to be a simple task.
The Araldite 420 could be softened up in stages with a heat-gun and dug
out with an old wood chisel. I then pulled out the spring-arm after
removing the inside bolt, which was bent as well. Straightening out the
twisted
tail-spring required the use of a strong vise as well as a longish piece
of pipe, but was also fairly easy. I then proceeded to re-assemble
everything , after proper sanding and cleaning the area, and finally
used a very small amount of Araldite 420 which I had kept in a small
glass jar, with a bit of hardener in a small bottle, mixed it well with
some flox, and applied it
around the spring where it passes through the hole . Unfortunately,
either the Araldite, or the hardener ( more likely) seems to have
expired , and the glue has not cured and will have to be cleaned out
again.
Can anyone sell a small amount of Araldite and hardener to me, not more
than 50g is needed.
I will, of course, buy a larger amount.
Peter Timm, C-GIET
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Spar bolts tight |
Hi Grahame,
Try pulling the Stb. "Allen" Pin to only go through the first spar,
then push the Port Spar Pin, when it's fully home, repush the Stb. Allen Pin,
Try that sequence and see how you get on,
Steve #630
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351912#351912
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Spar bolts tight |
Graeme
I rig my aircraft single handed, and find that the only way I can get the spar
pins in is to initially use a tapered pin on the starboard side. Then, once the
port pin is fully home I put a support under the starboard wing, pull out the
tapered starboard pin and replace it with the Allen pin. Works every time.
John Heykoop
XS Mono G-JHKP
On 10 Sep 2011, at 18:33, "graeme bird" <graeme@gdbmk.co.uk> wrote:
>
> My paperwork is in for flight test approval but I find the spar bolts very hard
to get in particularly now as I have trimmed the starboard one to length and
no longer have a long feathered end to pull it in and also have put the spar
strap on.
> It seems to be a job pulling in the last mm and I wondered if anyone has used
straps and a ratchet ?
> Also I find the stabilizers hard to get on and off, again its the last half inch
or so - the pins seem tight and there is nothing much to push on.
>
> --------
> Graeme Bird
> G-UMPY
> Mono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP
> Build nearing completion
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351902#351902
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Araldite 420 A |
Where are you located?
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Timm <cptimm@telus.net>
Sent: Sat, Sep 10, 2011 12:57 pm
Subject: Europa-List: Araldite 420 A
Hi All,
following my recent twisting of the tail-wheel spring-arm I had to remove t
he same from the fuselage, which turned out to be a simple task. The Araldi
te 420 could be softened up in stages with a heat-gun and dug out with an o
ld wood chisel. I then pulled out the spring-arm after removing the inside
bolt, which was bent as well. Straightening out the twisted
tail-spring required the use of a strong vise as well as a longish piece of
pipe, but was also fairly easy. I then proceeded to re-assemble everything
, after proper sanding and cleaning the area, and finally used a very smal
l amount of Araldite 420 which I had kept in a small glass jar, with a bit
of hardener in a small bottle, mixed it well with some flox, and applied it
around the spring where it passes through the hole . Unfortunately, either
the Araldite, or the hardener ( more likely) seems to have expired , and t
he glue has not cured and will have to be cleaned out again.
Can anyone sell a small amount of Araldite and hardener to me, not more tha
n 50g is needed.
I will, of course, buy a larger amount.
Peter Timm, C-GIET
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Spar bolts tight |
Graem,
Not to butt in, but, after a long build it is not uncommon that a once
easy to rig aircraft seems a bit sticky.
Graham has hit the nail on the head. Everything, pins and bushes need
to be aligned.
After a long build process and painting, interior work etc., you need to
work very hard to clean and prep everything. It is amazing to me that
all that finish work on the outside seems to allow the plane to develop
a sag sometimes changing alignment. But I submit it is only time
unrigged that is the cause. Like leaving the doors open for a year then
find they don't close. Duh fiberglass moves.
First clean and lube all rigging parts.
Wings,
Clean the root pins flawlessly clean and free from dirt, corrosion, glue
etc. Check for burrs, polish with a buffing wheel and lube them well. A
small amount of excess glue from the root layups can ruin your day.
Wing pins, clean and buff. Note the pip pin is a very close tolerance
(0.499 is what mine measured whereas the Allen head pin is about 0.495
or so) and if you rig with the pip pin first, the Allen will be tough.
Any corrosion or goo in the bushes will make alignment miserably tight.
Ensure the aileron quick disconnects aren=99t too tight.
Clean your sockets out and clean your bushings in the wing.
Rig one wing at a time and note that a bit of wing tip movement can bind
the pin easily or loosen it. I have wing walkers or a good stable wing
rigging platform which sets the wing precisely at the right angle so the
wing bushes are aligned and the pins slide in effortlessly. Check the
port wing first, then rig the other wing.
Each wing should slide in with a clear "thunk" sound. That is the sound
of the spar hitting on one or both of the sockets and the spar cap.
Once the wings are in, then ascertain how the pins fit. Have an
assistant lift one wing until the pin moves easily around.
Normally a single pin will go in when rigging. If you are still having
problems simply look through the holes and use a probe to determine
where the misalignment is. Front spar, aft spar etc. If it is out of
alignment on the side of the bush, the wings aren't in far enough. If
top or bottom the wings are not in at the right dihedral angle.
As a final last straw. Heat the pin until it is just about 250 degrees
F then push it in and let it set. The heat will transfer to the bushes
and align it. I do have a 1/2 inch reamer that I have used to clean up
the inside of the bushes but red scotchbrite is normally all that is
necessary.
I have found the spar strap to be of aid in rigging.
Technique:
I personally set the wings up horizontal using my wing pins. I do not
clamp the wing spars, I just use a bit of a clap on the end of the spar
to keep the bushes in contact with each other but do not pull the center
of the spar together. If you choose to use the bolts, the bolts are a
smaller diameter than the wing pip pin so the alignment will be off a
tiny bit. Use a generous amount of parcel tape and use a stout piece of
card stock (1mm or so) to make the bow on the spar top. I also peel ply
the the tapes but then wrap them in place with parcel tape until cured
as gravity works 24/7. By keeping the wing horizontal, the bottom of
the strap tends to be nicer looking and a slightly looser fit which aids
in rigging.
Stabs.
Clean and buff your tubes. Then lube them.
Check that the pins on the TP12s didn't get bent during painting. I use
a piece of wood held against the tube and check the pin is perfectly
aligned with it. I use a 1/4 inch ID tube to carefully bend the tube
into place.
Clean the TP13s well, as filler likes to get in there.
To clean out the TPs, I use a drill extension and install a 1.5 inch 120
grit flap wheel as a cleaner for the TP5 and 6 bearings.
I then put a piece of paper towel over the end and tape it up. It looks
like a gun cleaner when done. I lube it and I use it as a gun tube
swabber. Then the stabs slide on beautifully. Great for annual
maintenance or pre-rigging cleanup.
Getting the trim bar disconnected first before full pull to remove the
stab makes it a bit easier on everything also.
Personal note on stab installation:
I have found that holding the stab vertical balanced on the leading edge
with one hand, facing the upper side of the stab and holding the root
section with the other allows an installation free of torque or bending
on the TP5 bearing, possibly damaging or cracking it loose. Wiggle it
on by rotating the root section while carefully aligning the stab with
the tube and sliding it on until the inner TP6 is just contacted. Move
to the stab tip then rotate the stab to the near 12 to 13 degrees nose
down from the horizontal to get the TP13s aligned and push part way on,
insert the trim tube and push the stab home.
With all respect to Mod 73 and those clamping their stab tubes, if your
TP14 pins are lose, don't fly, do the larger pin mod and use loctite to
remove any play at the trailing edge of the stab. Any play will result
in eventual flutter which leads to bad things like death so don't accept
any, fix it.
Regards,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON<mailto:grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2011 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Spar bolts tight
Graem
the T/P pins need to be exactly parallel with the tube, get a length
of 1/4" bore tube and use it carefully to check alignment then bend them
straight.
Graham
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: graeme bird <graeme@gdbmk.co.uk<mailto:graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, 10 September, 2011 18:33:02
Subject: Europa-List: Spar bolts tight
<graeme@gdbmk.co.uk<mailto:graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>>
My paperwork is in for flight test approval but I find the spar bolts
very hard to get in particularly now as I have trimmed the starboard one
to length and no longer have a long feathered end to pull it in and also
have put the spar strap on.
It seems to be a job pulling in the last mm and I wondered if anyone
has used straps and a ratchet ?
Also I find the stabilizers hard to get on and off, again its the last
half inch or so - the pins seem tight and there is nothing much to push
on.
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP
Build nearing completion
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351902#351======
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