Today's Message Index:
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1. 01:29 AM - Re: Door closed switches (Gavin and Anne Lee)
2. 09:17 AM - Re: Pitot Static (EMAproducts@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Door closed switches |
Hi Tony
Yes I use a door open light on the instrument panel which is operated by the
rear shoot bolts on the doors, either shoot bolt when it is not in place
will activate the light. I just used common micro switches from Dick Smith
(the lever type) and once I had the doors fitted just bonded them in place
so that the shoot bolt was activating the switch, there are connections on
the switch for either circuit open or closed so connect to suit, obviously
want the circuit open when the door is closed.
Works fine, never had a problem with them.
Cheers
Gavin Lee.....#355 ZK-EPA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Sent: Wednesday, 14 September 2011 12:56 a.m.
Subject: Europa-List: Door closed switches
--> <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
> Well, it's taken a long while but I seem to have my doors on. Ironically I
have a worse outcome on the left door, even though I did it second. I don't
think it is actually my fault that it kicks out at the back, and I am
tempted to either do massage with a hot air gun but feel it might be quite a
hard thing to do properly due to the U shaped internal door section. I'm
actually scared to try, however I have thought when I post cure it all I
might reverse things and lock in the back shoot bolt, and intentionally
distort the door by leaving the front shoot bolt outside of the aircraft.
Fingers crossed at 50+ degrees C it might relax enough so I get a square
outcome. So, that's the grand plan but I have been reading an article Nigel
Charles wrote for the LAAA regarding upgrading a panel, where he talks about
warning lights for doors not closed properly. The majority may not have
these but it is my luck that if I don't fit something I will lose a door. To
this end therefore, I !
am requesting advice on what type of switch, and maybe where they can be
sourced please.
Whilst I am at it, I didn't thank those that offered advice as to what I
should do to preserve my 7 year old Rotax, still in it's original box. So
thanks to them, and same to anyone in advance who can offer learned wisdom
re this next issue.
Reg Tony Renshaw
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Pitot Static |
I am just a lurker on this site, but have considerable experience on
location of pitot/ vanes etc below the wing .
I manufacturer the RiteAngle series of AOA's, and vane location is
extremely important to get a good clean airflow, which also would indicate good
clean stable air into the pitot tube. My aerodynamic engineer with many years
of experience told me to never locate a vane less than 4 inches from an
airfoil. Where we are using a vane we strive to be 13% of the chord below
the wing, which has worked on well over 100 different makes and models of
aircraft with no problem. The only problems were with those who placed the
vane to close to the airflow where the airflow was still "following the curve"
of the airfoil~~I can think of two people who tried to out guess years of
experimenting and experience. I agree 100% that 4" is marginal, especially
where the vane is located on the Europa ( on those I've flown anyway.)
Another factor is the actual airfoil being used and the size of the pitot
tube. During tests for certification of one LSA our system was within 1 mph
from stall to Vne of the aircraft, I feel primairly due to using a larger
diameter pitot tube as the AOA didn't restrict the airflow into the tube,
also the shape of the end of the pitot makes a difference. Put it far enoug
h below the wing & use a proven pitot tube.
A different subject the Static source is as important as the Pitot.
Follow Europa's instructions.
Elbie Mendenhall
In a message dated 9/20/2011 12:07:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
europa-list@matronics.com writes:
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Pitot Static
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil@gmail.com>
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