Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:10 AM - about silicon (Raimo Toivio)
2. 11:59 AM - Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic (zwakie)
3. 02:23 PM - Need an LAA mod for wing tip strobe - really (graeme bird)
4. 03:31 PM - Re: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic (Kingsley)
Message 1
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Hi
Someone was worried about waxing Europa because
those waxes could contain silicon.
Right.
I contacted AutoGlym=B4s Sales Manager Mr. H
Valimaki and he said there is more or less
silicon, like all the waxes usually today have.
If you wanna have absolutely silicon free wax,
your choise is AutoGlym 01B. No silicon,
quaranteed he stated.
I also contacted Patria Aviation and Mr S Taipale
there. He has a long career with composites and
painting. Just now he is a leader of the group
which is finishing NH90 helicopters.
He claimed there should be no problem with silicon
if the painting is first class.
Then after I contacted couple of gliding clubs:
they wax their gliders two - four times per year.
They recommend using AutoGlym or Korrek -products.
They claimed they have never had any problems with
composite /glass repairing tasks (with gliders
little repairs are usual).
They pointed waxing is very useful and important
because it protects the surface against time,
dirt, sun, water, moisture and insects. Plus
giving some speed advantage and great look.
***
I am waxing my plane two times a year. And I am
still going to do so, with some silicon or not.
IMHO.
Three years ago during a hard sidewind landing my
port side wing=B4s and aileron=B4s trailing edge
corner hit ground and they got a small damage.
There was not any problems when fixing it.
Cheers, Raimo Toivio
Europa XS Mono OH-XRT #417
Updated flight hours /landings:
37500 Lempaala
FINLAND
p +358-3-3753 777
f +358-3-3753 100
toivio@fly.to
www.rwm.fi
Message 2
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Subject: | Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic |
On my Classic Europa with 912UL, I am experiencing too high oil temps for comfort.
Full power climb will run the oil temp to the very edge of the red zone after
less than a 1000' climb, settling to well above 120 degrees C in 65% power
cruise. I rarely see oil temps below 120, except in winter.
A while ago Frans made quite a convincing argument that the tandem setup of the
water and oil cooler is far from optimal, ideally I should give the oil cooler
a dedicated inlet.
Before going into such a substantial modification, I decided to close the gaps
between engine cowl and water-cooler, as well as the gap between oil and water
cooler to see what that brings in term of oil-cooling. Attached picture give
you an idea of the significant gaps between cowl and water cooler.
I completed the first part of this little project: putting in a vertical plate
around the water cooler. This plate blocks air from entering the cowling undisturbed,
and will serve as a plate that rubber seals will be sitting against.
I was stunned to see the enormous effect this vertical plate alone has on oil temp:
a drop of about 8 degrees C compared to previous flight with almost identical
OAT. This time even after a 2000' full power climb, the oil temp would not
exceed 130 degrees C. I am now hopeful that closing the gaps on the sides will
bring the oil temps down to an acceptable level.
A long intro from my end, leading up to a couple of questions:
* What type of rubber sealing should I use, is it Silicone because of its resistance
to high/low temps? And: who sells small quantities of whatever type is required?
* What relation, if any, is there between width of gap to seal and thickness of
the seal?
Reasons for this question: on the propellor-side of the inlet I have a gap about
13 mm between cowl and radiator, does this ask for additional measures to prevent
the seal from being pushed to the propellor-side of the radiator by the
high-pressure bubble in front of the cooler? (this would open up the gap again,
allowing air to escape)
* I intend to attach the seal to the inside of both halves of the cowl. Two reasons
for that: (1) on the inside the seals won't disturb the airflow to the radiator,
and (2) aesthetics.
What is the best way to attach them to the glass cowl (ideally without disturbing
airflow by rivnuts or what else sticking out in the flow of incoming air to
the rad)
* A gap exists between water and oil cooler; top and bottom gap is about 1.5-2
mm, gaps on both sides are about 5 mms. These need to be closed up as well, but
until now I have not come up with a good idea for this.
How did you seal this? All suggestions are more than welcome! (with some pics if
not too much trouble please)
* Finally, I need to close a 0.2-0.7mm gap between cooler and installed vertical
plate. How can I best attach silicone rubber to metal, wide-head rivnuts with
supporting strips or will an oversized (say 2mm) sponge-type silicone profile
with adhesive-back suffice?
--------
Marcel
(Europa Classic Tri-Gear PH-MZW)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=353334#353334
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ph_mzw_water_cooler_gap_625.jpg
Message 3
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Subject: | Need an LAA mod for wing tip strobe - really |
The LAA are asking me to put a new mod form in for installing Airworld twin head
wing tip strobes, surely this has already been done several times?
Also someone must have installed a 'Think Automotive' oil thermostat already, or
maybe I should just change it for the Skydrive one.
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP
Build nearing completion
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=353354#353354
Message 4
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Subject: | Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic |
> On my Classic Europa with 912UL, I am experiencing too high oil temps for
comfort.
Marcel,
Ten years or so ago, there was an article in the Europa News (we don't get
them now) about oil temp problems in Kim Prout's Classic in California.
Kim and Ivan Shaw moved the oil cooler to just below the spinner after
cutting a hole there to suit. The article reported the mod was hugely
successful following which they flew to Oshkosh and back with no temperature
problems at all despite very hot conditions on the way.
Cheers
Kingsley in Oz
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