Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:18 AM - Re: Re: Entry to the UK (Alan Burrill)
2. 03:27 AM - Re: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic (zwakie)
3. 03:52 AM - Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle (Justin Kennedy)
4. 09:08 AM - Trailer (Karen Ward)
5. 11:04 AM - Re: Bungee (Bud Yerly)
6. 11:18 AM - Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle (Bud Yerly)
7. 12:45 PM - Re: Can we borrow your tank? (Bud Yerly)
8. 02:34 PM - Fly in at Greenville Tn GCY. October 15 (Bud Yerly)
9. 02:48 PM - Tyres (David Joyce)
10. 03:00 PM - Re: Can we borrow your tank? (William Daniell)
11. 03:04 PM - Re: Tyres (peter.rees01@tiscali.co.uk)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Entry to the UK |
Glad you made it.
Alan
Sent from my iPod
On 4 Oct 2011, at 09:45, "tennant" <barrington.tennant@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks for your support Alan,
>
> The system is such that there is an automatic reply which you have to carry with
you. It was no problem and I had a superb flight to Cardiff direct from EDLM.
Nobody wanted to see it, or even my passport for that matter!
>
> On the way back yesterday we met up with Dave Bosomworth in the air over Goodwood
as he had heared us on Solent Radar frequency.
>
> Best regards
>
> Barry
>
> --------
> Barry Tennant
> D-EHBT
> At EDLM - Germany
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=353987#353987
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic |
Thanks Frans for the explanation, good food for thought! Clearly I need to do more
thinking about this ;)
--------
Marcel
(Europa Classic Tri-Gear PH-MZW)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=354075#354075
Message 3
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Subject: | Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle |
My daughter ;-) says that the little tube from carburettor to plenum chambe
r has disconnected on one side.
Justin
G-ZTED Classic Monowheel.
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Does anyone have, or know of a second-hand Tri-gear trailer for sale?
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Bryan,
Sorry that Europa did not forward your request for information to me.
10mm or 3/8 inch is for the mono undercarriage.
12mm or 1/2 inch is for the trigear shock absorber.
Please use and ask for the 10mm as that is what you originally had and I
am sure that your gap will accommodate that with a bit of a squeeze.
I cannot understand the delay except perhaps your request fell through
the crack. My apologies.
Another note: If you need to replace the bungee now is the time to
completely look at the gear mechanism for wear and tear and update your
other rubber components. Just a thought.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Europa Tech Support
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Allsop<mailto:bryanallsop@hotmail.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2011 11:51 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Bungee
Having waited for two weeks for Europa to supply me with replacement
bungee (shock) cord for the monowheel undercarriage, they have supplied
a length of 12mm diameter chord. The bungee I took out was 10mm, and
that was a squeeze. Anyone who has tried it knows that the bungee has to
fit through two narrow gaps, and fitting it is difficult.
Clearly 10 mm bungee is easily available on line, but before I go
ahead, can anyone confirm that 10 mm is the correct size? I am not
convinced that the staff at Europa would know the answer.
My regards to those who may think that I no longer exist.
Bryan Allsop
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle |
Many things to check.
Carbs:
Check for a vacuum leak or a carb intake or carb to manifold leak.
Especially since it seems to have just started and abates at low power
setting.
Check carb balance.
Engine Electrics:
First check ignition A and B separate.
Second check plugs, check coil. (one bad coil really shakes also)
Pull plugs and look for differences.
Fuel :
Check carb float bowls for dirt.
Check fuel pressure regulator for 914
Finally your fuel pump delivery pressure.
Exhaust:
Check no exhaust failure. Look at the entire exhaust for soot,
looseness or failures.
Regards,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Raimo Toivio<mailto:raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2011 3:44 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle
All
I have hope-so a nice riddle for you.
Maybe all the answers are useful =93 let=C2=B4s collect them
all:
***
Yesterday I took off from a very remote /small /windy (90 degrees 12
knots and gusting MUCH) grass strip. Soon until well over the ground at
altitude +500 feet with full power and 2nd fuel pump still on and gears
up I felt suddenly let us say medium or more shake and vibration. My
immediate reaction was to go around and land immediately but abandoned
because wind was so furious and I felt I cannot do that (a succesful
landing).
I decided to try to fly to the next possible sensible airfield EFHV
which was 10 minutes apart.
Those minutes were long: I put my prob (Airmaster CS) to manual and
drived it from fine to coarse, tried all the power settings and also a
2nd fuel filter. Finally I noticed that when prop was in a climb mode
(in my case 5400 rpm /Rotax 912S) and MAP around 20 inches I got quite a
comfortable flying mode and I headed straight home. My airspeed was w
that selection about 110 knots but because of a strong headwind GS was
only about 70 knots (wanted to be clearly over the ground at 3000 ft
because it was well over sunset and totally dark, yesterday we got
sunset around 1600 Zulutime and time was well over 1630 when flying).
So, I pushed home one looooong hour. All the aerodynamics were well. I
was a bit worried my engine will separate or so. When trying to push
more pwr it was more vibra and when trying to pull less pwr same. I
Followed a main highway and decided to land there if feeling so. Cars
there with lights are almost like a lighted runway...
Finally landing to the EFTP flawlesly.
***
Today we had a FHGP (Family Hangar Grill Party). I tried to check my
plane as well as I can. I found something. Very small evidence but
something anyway. I tried to fix it and had a test run. I elected to go
to fly =93 hey I am a test pilot who else =93 and She was
better than ever!
I managed to do 2 touches and goes when C172 did one with same runway.
140 knots during downwind makes me always happy.
***
So =93 dear Ladies and Gentlemen =93 what was wrong?
It would be nice and very life-useful to hear your opinions or guesses
what was wrong.
***
The Rules: one single guess per person, please.
The Prize: The Best Guess will get a Very Special Xmas Present from
Finland!
***
I will let you know a solution after a week =93 be patient.
Have a nice weekend and
Cheers, Raimo Toivio
Europa XS Mono OH-XRT #417
Updated flight hours /landings: 258,3
37500 Lempaala
FINLAND
p +358-3-3753 777
f +358-3-3753 100
toivio@fly.to<mailto:toivio@fly.to>
www.rwm.fi<http://www.rwm.fi/>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Can we borrow your tank? |
Will,
Sorry it has taken too long. Much to do and too little time. I have
had an email of mine cut and pasted by the editor into the Europa flier.
This is a hot issue and I have been looking for my more detailed
instructions but can't find it right now since my house flooded. I have
attached two adobe files with some incomplete info on removal and
installation (read that as shorter than my normal tome).
Look at the attached pdf files for a quick and dirty explanation.
Tools you'll most probably like to have.
A fine tooth hand saw,
Dremel type rotary tool and a very thin diamond blade.
Hack saw (metal cutting saw) blades for hand use.
Hole saw of 2 inches diameter or so.
Fein saw (an electric or air saw with a long thin blade)
patience, precision and about 24 hours of pure enjoyment.
Regards
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: William Daniell<mailto:wdaniell@etb.net.co>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 12:02 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Can we borrow your tank?
Bud
Can you give an overview of the tank replacement surgery.
My tank has been sitting around empty during my (glacial-paced) build
and has been glassed in per the manual since 2008 and not per your post.
I am wondering whether it would be wise to bite the bullet and change
the tank before putting the top on.
What do you suggest?
Yours
Will
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud Yerly
Sent: 25 September, 2011 10:45
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Can we borrow your tank?
To all fuel tank concerns
Europa has 25 tanks on order, however, the mold was damaged /
discarded by the manufacturer. The new tank, made by Roger and John
that I have from 2009, holds a bit more fuel (I have 20 gallons useable
in my trigear filled to the brim) and has reinforcements in addition to
the normal support tabs. I am not privy to the new tank manufacturers
mold to see that it is exactly the same. Karen expects delivery in a
couple weeks, but it will have to undergo QC first. I am watching and
waiting for a tank also for a new customer.
For those attempting to build a fiberglass composite tank using the
old tank as a mold, I believe the molding in place to be more time
consuming than just pulling the old tank and replacing it with the new
tank and properly supporting it.
Fiberglass tanks, as pointed out by Graham, have problems with auto
fuel.
No fiberglass tank (epoxy, vinylester, or polyester) holds up with
Auto Fuel with Ethanol. The marine industry coats the inside of
fiberglass tanks with specialized coatings to protect the fiberglass
from auto fuel additives and ethanol. It appears AV Gas is safe with
all fiberglass tanks. However, the AV Gas formula is under review by
the FAA for changes, so no guarantees.
Repairs to the current tank is difficult. Epoxy and glass stick very
well to the PTFE tank material. Jeff Roberts has successfully repaired
his tank, but it depends where your crack is. I have repaired the top
of the tank with glass and pro seal. Note, that proseal softens with
time when exposed to ethanol, but has not failed so far. The problem
with glass repairs to the tank, in my opinion, is that the bond has less
peel strength than ideal and under flexing and pressure will eventually
fail.
I believe, and have put my money where my mouth is, that the solution
to the tank cracking is the support structure used for the tank.
For those of you who haven't seen my previous posts, I have attached
one of my drawings to show what I mean. The front of the tank is
totally unsupported from the area above the spars (the ledge) to the
bottom rear of the tank. Tank flexing of the older and thinner tank
will force the tank to eventually crack at the areas that are glassed
hard and not allowed to move. Whether the tank gets brittle with age,
from the fiberglass interface, gets brittle with being left empty during
long repairs, or what, I really don't care, as all poly tanks will flex,
and going from empty to full will cause a flex of a tank and eventually,
if forced back and forth, will fail.
Metal cracks also unless properly supported, has condensation problems
, and it is expensive for odd shaped tanks to build, fiberglass has its
fuel compatibility problems, molding issues, etc., and PTFE or poly
tanks have their long term problems unless properly supported.
What has my company done?
Defined how to support the tank. We do not glass the tank directly to
the cockpit module structure per the instruction manual. We put release
plastic between the required build manual supports and tank to prevent
the required supports from sticking permanently and creating a stress
riser. We use glass tabs to secure it at the top, for fore/aft and side
to side movement. Polyurethane foam is used to secure the tank from
shifting, and we carefully build lower tank supports. (On a new build
it means fitting the module a couple more times to fit an expand cell
pad laid along the bottom of the tank perimeter covered with 2 mil
plastic to define where the tank sits and requires support. The expand
cell is then sanded to final shape and glassed over making a very good
support.) The tank also sits on a cork support for padding (kind of
overkill) to prevent wear, but plastic works OK also. This means the
tank is supported vertically and horizontally by the saddle, the bottom,
the front ledge, and foam wedged with urethane foam to prevent movement
fore, aft , up , or down. All weight is carried by a combination of the
floor and the bulkheads.
Existing tanks have added non expanding polyurethane foam sprayed
under the tank to support the bottom, but this is not ideal as I prefer
a longeron and ribs be glassed to the floor for the tunnel area and
across the front of the tank for vertical support. This adds support
for the tank bottom, back and sides as opposed to the previous supports
which hung the tank solely off the bulkheads...
Other bandaids:
We have a plastic welder and have tried it recently on PTFE tanks used
in commercial lawn equipment (which are poorly supported fuel tanks and
prone to cracking with age) and have had success so far. Not an exact
science but we have also done an auto radiator, and a auto overflow
coolant tank to see what the long term effects are. We are concerned
that the heat stress near the weld may be brittle and fail, so time will
tell. Pulling the tank and welding is not cost effective as one may as
well drop in another tank.
In the mean time, I am waiting for a new tank to drop in as that is
the easiest of all solutions, as the tank supports can be put in quite
easily through the hole in the top of the module. This I believe will
solve the problems of stress risers and tank failures. Anyone can
replace a tank in less than a week.
Regards,
Bud
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 8
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Subject: | Fly in at Greenville Tn GCY. October 15 |
The colors of the leaves are changing and Greenville TN Airport KGCY is
having a fly-in / open house.
Our friend Jerry Hope is stationed there and all Europa Owners are
invited to fly, drive or walk on in.
Troy is thinking of going as am I as I have a plane to deliver, weather
and client permitting.
Jerry says the times are 0900 to 1400 and there are venders for lunch.
Just another great way to turn fuel into fun.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Message 9
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Can anyone give me details of best place to get new gyres for my tri gear please
in the uk?
Rgds
David
Sent from the iPad of David Joyce
www.eastmidsspas.com
Message 10
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Subject: | Can we borrow your tank? |
Bud
Thanks.always love the asides in your mails.
Will
PS sorry to hear flooded - it seems to have been a bad 6 months form the
elements for you.
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud Yerly
Sent: 05 October, 2011 14:40
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Can we borrow your tank?
Will,
Sorry it has taken too long. Much to do and too little time. I have had an
email of mine cut and pasted by the editor into the Europa flier. This is a
hot issue and I have been looking for my more detailed instructions but
can't find it right now since my house flooded. I have attached two adobe
files with some incomplete info on removal and installation (read that as
shorter than my normal tome).
Look at the attached pdf files for a quick and dirty explanation.
Tools you'll most probably like to have.
A fine tooth hand saw,
Dremel type rotary tool and a very thin diamond blade.
Hack saw (metal cutting saw) blades for hand use.
Hole saw of 2 inches diameter or so.
Fein saw (an electric or air saw with a long thin blade)
patience, precision and about 24 hours of pure enjoyment.
Regards
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: William Daniell <mailto:wdaniell@etb.net.co>
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 12:02 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Can we borrow your tank?
Bud
Can you give an overview of the tank replacement surgery.
My tank has been sitting around empty during my (glacial-paced) build and
has been glassed in per the manual since 2008 and not per your post.
I am wondering whether it would be wise to bite the bullet and change the
tank before putting the top on.
What do you suggest?
Yours
Will
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud Yerly
Sent: 25 September, 2011 10:45
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Can we borrow your tank?
To all fuel tank concerns
Europa has 25 tanks on order, however, the mold was damaged / discarded by
the manufacturer. The new tank, made by Roger and John that I have from
2009, holds a bit more fuel (I have 20 gallons useable in my trigear filled
to the brim) and has reinforcements in addition to the normal support tabs.
I am not privy to the new tank manufacturers mold to see that it is exactly
the same. Karen expects delivery in a couple weeks, but it will have to
undergo QC first. I am watching and waiting for a tank also for a new
customer.
For those attempting to build a fiberglass composite tank using the old tank
as a mold, I believe the molding in place to be more time consuming than
just pulling the old tank and replacing it with the new tank and properly
supporting it.
Fiberglass tanks, as pointed out by Graham, have problems with auto fuel.
No fiberglass tank (epoxy, vinylester, or polyester) holds up with Auto Fuel
with Ethanol. The marine industry coats the inside of fiberglass tanks with
specialized coatings to protect the fiberglass from auto fuel additives and
ethanol. It appears AV Gas is safe with all fiberglass tanks. However, the
AV Gas formula is under review by the FAA for changes, so no guarantees.
Repairs to the current tank is difficult. Epoxy and glass stick very well
to the PTFE tank material. Jeff Roberts has successfully repaired his tank,
but it depends where your crack is. I have repaired the top of the tank
with glass and pro seal. Note, that proseal softens with time when exposed
to ethanol, but has not failed so far. The problem with glass repairs to
the tank, in my opinion, is that the bond has less peel strength than ideal
and under flexing and pressure will eventually fail.
I believe, and have put my money where my mouth is, that the solution to the
tank cracking is the support structure used for the tank.
For those of you who haven't seen my previous posts, I have attached one of
my drawings to show what I mean. The front of the tank is totally
unsupported from the area above the spars (the ledge) to the bottom rear of
the tank. Tank flexing of the older and thinner tank will force the tank to
eventually crack at the areas that are glassed hard and not allowed to move.
Whether the tank gets brittle with age, from the fiberglass interface, gets
brittle with being left empty during long repairs, or what, I really don't
care, as all poly tanks will flex, and going from empty to full will cause a
flex of a tank and eventually, if forced back and forth, will fail.
Metal cracks also unless properly supported, has condensation problems , and
it is expensive for odd shaped tanks to build, fiberglass has its fuel
compatibility problems, molding issues, etc., and PTFE or poly tanks have
their long term problems unless properly supported.
What has my company done?
Defined how to support the tank. We do not glass the tank directly to the
cockpit module structure per the instruction manual. We put release plastic
between the required build manual supports and tank to prevent the required
supports from sticking permanently and creating a stress riser. We use
glass tabs to secure it at the top, for fore/aft and side to side movement.
Polyurethane foam is used to secure the tank from shifting, and we carefully
build lower tank supports. (On a new build it means fitting the module a
couple more times to fit an expand cell pad laid along the bottom of the
tank perimeter covered with 2 mil plastic to define where the tank sits and
requires support. The expand cell is then sanded to final shape and glassed
over making a very good support.) The tank also sits on a cork support for
padding (kind of overkill) to prevent wear, but plastic works OK also. This
means the tank is supported vertically and horizontally by the saddle, the
bottom, the front ledge, and foam wedged with urethane foam to prevent
movement fore, aft , up , or down. All weight is carried by a combination
of the floor and the bulkheads.
Existing tanks have added non expanding polyurethane foam sprayed under the
tank to support the bottom, but this is not ideal as I prefer a longeron and
ribs be glassed to the floor for the tunnel area and across the front of the
tank for vertical support. This adds support for the tank bottom, back and
sides as opposed to the previous supports which hung the tank solely off the
bulkheads...
Other bandaids:
We have a plastic welder and have tried it recently on PTFE tanks used in
commercial lawn equipment (which are poorly supported fuel tanks and prone
to cracking with age) and have had success so far. Not an exact science but
we have also done an auto radiator, and a auto overflow coolant tank to see
what the long term effects are. We are concerned that the heat stress near
the weld may be brittle and fail, so time will tell. Pulling the tank and
welding is not cost effective as one may as well drop in another tank.
In the mean time, I am waiting for a new tank to drop in as that is the
easiest of all solutions, as the tank supports can be put in quite easily
through the hole in the top of the module. This I believe will solve the
problems of stress risers and tank failures. Anyone can replace a tank in
less than a week.
Regards,
Bud
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhref
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 11
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Got ours from Watts - we were very pleased with the quality, price and
delivery.
Peter
G-MFHI
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