Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:50 AM - Re: Re: Toe vs Finger Brakes (Max Cointe)
2. 02:05 AM - Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle /The Solution /The Winner( (Remi Guerner)
3. 02:32 AM - Re: Re: Toe vs Finger Brakes (G-IANI)
4. 04:24 AM - Re: Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle /The Solution /The Winner( (Brian Davies)
5. 01:55 PM - Re: Aluminium Fuel Tube (Tony Renshaw)
6. 04:53 PM - Re: Aluminium Fuel Tube (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Toe vs Finger Brakes |
Hi Jurgen,
We probably have the same configuration: our cylinders are the toe's one
moved up and arranged to be used by fingers (by the previous owner and
builder). They are the Matco ones described in the chapter CBM 33T of the
manual. The discrepancy between both are probably due to a lack of liquid in
one circuit. You must use MilH5606 liquid (the best way to get it is from a
JAR 145 maintenance workshop) to refuel but before you should verify first
that it is what you have into (the color red/pink is significant I think).
We've done that, not an easy task but we have now quite efficient breaking
equilibrated on both wheels.
To do it : remove the stopper of the cylinder visible on fig 1 of the CBM
33T of the manuals and replace it by a transparent pipe attached to a bleed
nipple and push the liquid from a syringe via the bleed nipple on the brake
caliper (visible on page 16 of the CBM 29T of the manuals). You're done when
you see the liquid run on the pipe without bubbles.
We also consider replacing the cylinders but there is a cost (in the Europa
catalog the conversion kit is 1000+) and probably a bit a time to spend. So
far we will stay with the actual configuration.
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400 hours
-----Message d'origine-----
De: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] De la part de europapa
Envoy: mardi 18 octobre 2011 21:39
: europa-list@matronics.com
Objet: Europa-List: Re: Toe vs Finger Brakes
So, I am not so pleased with my finger brakes.
But I am not sure that I have the right braking cylinders.
My classic is a trigear conversion. I have seen in the builders manual there
are two types of cylinders used. Both have got an external brake fluid
reservoir. My cylinders haven't got one. The right cylinder begins braking
much earlier but I'm getting used to it. Even the brakes are very weak.
Maybe I should bleed them but have got no idea what kind of brake fluid the
builders used.
I jealously looked at the breaking cylinders of an race kart, they seemed to
have the same size.
Any suggestions?
Regards Juergen
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355453#355453
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Subject: | Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle /The Solution /The Winner( |
Hi Raimo,
As an engineer who has been working two decades for a spark plug company, I want
to add a few thoughts about your engine problem:
A misfiring spark plug, cannot cause detonation.
A single misfiring spark plug on one cylinder cannot cause the high level of vibration
you have experienced.
There are only two cases where a spark plug can cause detonation: the first one
is if you are using a spark plug with a too hot heat rating. In this case, the
nose core and the center electrode of the spark plug becomes red hot and ignite
the fuel mixture even without a spark. The second case is when the spark plug
is not torqued enough, becomes loose so that the heat transfer from the shell
to the cylinder head is limited, causing the spark plug to become very hot.
Both cases will cause preignition and possible detonation.
I assume you were using the right spark plug type and that your blue spark plug
was found to be tighten correctly. So in my opinion, the very hot blue spark
plug you got was not the cause but the consequence of another phenomenon, probably
preignition and/or detonation, caused by something else.
The two main causes of detonation are: a too lean mixture and a too low octane
fuel. This is were I would direct my investigation.
Preignition and detonation may seriously damage all combustion chamber parts such
as piston, rings, and valves.
After such a problem I would ground the aircraft until the root cause is found,
and I would carefully check the above parts for damage. Before removing the cylinder,
I would perform a compression check and a boroscope inspection of the
combustion chamber.
Hope that helps.
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355494#355494
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Toe vs Finger Brakes |
Jurgen
As far as I can tell the advise from Max is correct.
You almost certainly have a finger brake conversion which consists of moving
the original foot cylinders. So filling is as Max describes. This was an
early "fix" to get finger brakes and not supported by Europa. If filled and
bleed correctly they work but early versions had short levers (not enough
leverage) so breaking was limited. The simple solution (longer levers)
works better but puts the handles very high (and they look unsightly).
The Europa design improved the position and leverage but unfortunately the
first master cylinder (Jama) proved to be very poor quality. The final
redesign using Matco cylinders is much better.
A large part of the cost of the Europa kit is for the moulding etc used to
mount the master cylinder. The Matco cylinders are reasonably priced at
about $90 each from Matco (but make sure you get the correct cylinders). If
you are prepared to make you own mount and levers then you can convert at a
reasonable cost.
The documentation of Mod 65 shows the Jama setup and has not been updated.
The main manual CBM 33T (3) does give details of the Matco setup (but it
does contain some detailed error which have yet to be corrected).
I suggest you get your existing setup working properly before you decide on
an upgrade. If you decide to upgrade I will be happy to supply details of
what others have done and the corrections for the Matco setup.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle /The Solution /The |
Winner(
Following on from Remi's post, it might be worth following the recent blog
on the Rotax Owners website. A Rotax 912 owner suffered a partial fuel
blockage to one carb that only showed itself under high power conditions-
and then only intermittently. In your case, if you have a partial fuel flow
problem to one carb, reducing fuel flow by changing power settings could
make the symptoms disappear.
Worth checking?
Regards
Brian Davies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Remi Guerner
Sent: 19 October 2011 10:02
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle /The Solution
/The Winner(
--> <air.guerner@orange.fr>
Hi Raimo,
As an engineer who has been working two decades for a spark plug company, I
want to add a few thoughts about your engine problem:
A misfiring spark plug, cannot cause detonation.
A single misfiring spark plug on one cylinder cannot cause the high level of
vibration you have experienced.
There are only two cases where a spark plug can cause detonation: the first
one is if you are using a spark plug with a too hot heat rating. In this
case, the nose core and the center electrode of the spark plug becomes red
hot and ignite the fuel mixture even without a spark. The second case is
when the spark plug is not torqued enough, becomes loose so that the heat
transfer from the shell to the cylinder head is limited, causing the spark
plug to become very hot. Both cases will cause preignition and possible
detonation.
I assume you were using the right spark plug type and that your blue spark
plug was found to be tighten correctly. So in my opinion, the very hot blue
spark plug you got was not the cause but the consequence of another
phenomenon, probably preignition and/or detonation, caused by something
else.
The two main causes of detonation are: a too lean mixture and a too low
octane fuel. This is were I would direct my investigation.
Preignition and detonation may seriously damage all combustion chamber parts
such as piston, rings, and valves.
After such a problem I would ground the aircraft until the root cause is
found, and I would carefully check the above parts for damage. Before
removing the cylinder, I would perform a compression check and a boroscope
inspection of the combustion chamber.
Hope that helps.
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355494#355494
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Aluminium Fuel Tube |
Hey Graham, I'm well underway with my cobra attachment but need to sort out t
he venting before I bond it in. I have a sight gauge and the normal vent to p
lumb into the cobra. I have the black grommets fittings, the ones you instal
l in a hole in the cobra wall and then push a barb through with an elbow fit
ting. Pity it doesnt come with a T piece, which would stop me having to inst
all two, have you any specific suggestions as others have said you have a mo
d, I havent heard of it unless it is the new standard up and over one, hope a
lls well with you two,
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
On 21/09/2011, at 8:52 PM, GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
wrote:
> Tony
> Tim's aluminium elbow is highly recommended, it stops a lot of the fuel sm
ell in the cockpit, but make sure all the molding flash is carefully cut off
the Cobra so that the rubber tube jopints sit snuggly and seal to the Cobra
, and the tank stub
> Graham
>
>
> From: Tim Ward <ward.t@xtra.co.nz>
> To: tonyrenshaw268@optusnet.com.au; europa-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, 21 September, 2011 10:56:45
> Subject: Europa-List: Aluminium Fuel Tube
>
> Tony,
> See attachment in fixing the aluminium pipe supplied by me.
> It is purposely too long to allow for different fittings.
> Position the =9Ccobra=9D first with your splash moulding.
> Don=99t forget to reinforce the skin behind the cobra moulding with 3
layers of Bid to prevent deforming skin in hot temperatures (Aussie)
> Cut it, the pipe, gradually back , a little at a time until you have the c
orrect fit.
> The rubber piping at each end allows for mistakes.
> Once it is joined up then do the lay ups to the wall for the cobra.
> Puts some blue foam at the back of the cobra to allow for the shape and ex
pansion.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tim
>
>
> Tim Ward,
> 12 Waiwetu Street,
> Fendalton,
> Christchurch 8052
> New Zealand
>
> Ph; 03 3515166
> Mob; 0210640221
>
> email; ward.t@xtra.co.nz
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Aluminium Fuel Tube |
I use AN fittings, not sure about rubber gromets. Wikk they degrade in Moga
s?=0AWe're fine thanks, off to Turkey for a week 31st. Hope the Palestinian
s aren't =0Anear where we're going!=0AGraham=0AGRaham=0A=0A=0A=0A__________
______________________=0AFrom: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>=0ATo
: "europa-list@matronics.com" <europa-list@matronics.com>=0ASent: Wednesday
, 19 October, 2011 21:51:40=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Aluminium Fuel Tube
=0A=0A=0AHey Graham, I'm well underway with my cobra attachment but need to
sort out the =0Aventing before I bond it in. I have a sight gauge and the
normal vent to plumb =0Ainto the cobra. I have the black grommets fittings,
the ones you install in a =0Ahole in the cobra wall and then push a barb t
hrough with an elbow fitting. Pity =0Ait doesnt come with a T piece, which
would stop me having to install two, have =0Ayou any specific suggestions a
s others have said you have a mod, I havent heard =0Aof it unless it is the
new standard up and over one, hope alls well with you =0Atwo, =0AReg=0ATon
y Renshaw =0A=0ASent from my iPad=0A=0AOn 21/09/2011, at 8:52 PM, GRAHAM SI
NGLETON <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com> =0Awrote:=0A=0A=0ATony=0A>Tim's al
uminium elbow is highly recommended, it stops a lot of the fuel smell in
=0A>the cockpit, but make sure all the molding flash is carefully cut off t
he Cobra =0A>so that the rubber tube jopints sit snuggly and seal to the Co
bra, and the tank =0A>stub=0A>Graham=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A____________
____________________=0AFrom: Tim Ward <ward.t@xtra.co.nz>=0A>To: tonyrensha
w268@optusnet.com.au; europa-list@matronics.com=0A>Sent: Wednesday, 21 Sept
ember, 2011 10:56:45=0A>Subject: Europa-List: Aluminium Fuel Tube=0A>=0A>
=0A>Tony,=0A>See attachment in fixing the aluminium pipe supplied by me.=0A
>It is purposely too long to allow for different fittings.=0A>Position the
=9Ccobra=9D first with your splash moulding.=0A>Don=99t f
orget to reinforce the skin behind the cobra moulding with 3 layers of =0A
>Bid to prevent deforming skin in hot temperatures (Aussie)=0A>Cut it, the
pipe, gradually back , a little at a time until you have the =0A>correct f
it.=0A>The rubber piping at each end allows for mistakes.=0A>Once it is joi
ned up then do the lay ups to the wall for the cobra.=0A>Puts some blue foa
m at the back of the cobra to allow for the shape and =0A>expansion.=0A>
=0A> =0A>Cheers,=0A> =0A>Tim=0A> =0A> =0A>Tim Ward,=0A>12 Waiwetu Street,
=0A>Fendalton,=0A>Christchurch 8052=0A>New Zealand=0A>=0A>Ph; 03 3515166
=0A>Mob; 0210640221=0A>=0A>email; ward.t@xtra.co.nz=0A>=0A> ====
====== =0A>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-L
ist">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0A> ======
==== =0A>ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com =0A>==
======== =0A>http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
www.matronics.com/contribution =0A>=============
====================== =0A>=0A
============== =0A
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