Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:24 AM - Re: Re: door warp (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
2. 10:20 AM - Re: Fw: Mod 78 (Bud Yerly)
3. 10:21 AM - Re: Re: Motor glider Wings (Bud Yerly)
4. 11:04 AM - Re: door warp (Bud Yerly)
5. 03:38 PM - Re: Re: Motor glider Wings (Bud Yerly)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: RE: door warp |
Bikk=0Aimho this is the best way to do it. As you say, there is no l;oad on
the door or =0Athe fuselage. All loads are absorbed by the strut linkage.
=0AVery clever but a lot of work. Be nice if someone produced the parts. ho
w about =0Ait Justin Kennedy?=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________________
_______=0AFrom: William McClellan <wilwood@earthlink.net>=0ATo: "Europa-Lis
t@matronics.com" <Europa-List@matronics.com>=0ASent: Friday, 28 October, 20
11 15:21:25=0ASubject: Europa-List: RE: door warp=0A=0AThere is a mod I bel
ieve first conceived by Ted Gladstone and Justin Kennedy. =0AKingsley Hurs
t adapted it further and I took Kingsley's method and modified it =0Afor my
installation. The bracket hinge system removes essentially all load the
=0Astrut puts on the door and frame, whether the original or subsequent doo
r strut =0Amod is used. Attached is a picture of the Gladstone door hinge.
=0A=0A=0ABill McClellan=0AA164 XS
Message 2
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Yes, you may order only one kit from Karen and share. I do not believe
there is a significant discount though. And the tool gets a bit messy.
Regards,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Zutrauen<mailto:peterz@zutrasoft.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fw: Mod 78
Hi Bud,
Will there be opportunity to share the jig/tooling to reduce our
costs? (there are three sets of long wings up here in eastern Canada).
Cheers & thx,
Pete
A239
Ottawa
On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 9:33 AM, Bud Yerly
<budyerly@msn.com<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>> wrote:
Resent from Laptop as original did not send.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bud Yerly<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
To: europa-list<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> ; Dave
Anderson<mailto:djaflyact@gmail.com> ; Jim and Heather
Butcher<mailto:butcher43@att.net> ; Karen
Ward<mailto:karen.ward@swiftaircraft.co.uk> ; Kim
Prout<mailto:KPAVIAT@gmail.com> ; Laurie
Ryan<mailto:larrypad@bigpond.net.au> ; Ronald
Parigoris<mailto:rparigor@hotmail.com> ; Homer
Baker<mailto:bakersc@embarqmail.com> ; George
Reed<mailto:gtr2btr@bellsouth.net> ; Gary
Leinberger<mailto:gleinberger@millersville.edu> ; Karl
Heindl<mailto:kheindl@msn.com> ; william
maher<mailto:wmtruebrit@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 10:27 AM
Subject: Mod 78
Motor Glider Owners
We are pleased to advise that Mod 78 is now available, and will be
ready to ship.
To help with the cost of shipping we will dispatch the kits from the
Factory direct, as packaging and shipping will include the tooling.
Payment will be via credit card or wire transfer to Europa Aircraft
only.
Our current prices for the Mods are:
Option 1 - Parts & Tooling : GBP =A3869.14
Option 2 - Parts, Tooling & Resin Kit : GBP =A31163.74
Option 3 - Additional 2 off Wing Forward Pins (W25M78) for XS wings
: GBP =A396.74
Please note that delivery charges are not included in the above
quoted prices. If Option 2 is taken, 'Hazardous Goods' carriage charges
will apply. For those choosing Option 1 in our USA Agent Custom Flight
Creations has secured a glue supplier for the Ampreg 21 which will
greatly reduce the Hazardous Goods charges verses shipping from the UK
via air. Approximate costs for the Ampreg via Custom Flight Creations
are below:
F121-034 AMPREG21 RESIN 10KG ea. $160
F121-036 AMPREG21 HARD STD 3.33KG ea. $ 110
The Factory will require a 50% deposit at the time of order from
your credit card for the Mod, with the balance settled prior to shipping
the kits.
I attach for your information the Bill of Materials for Mod 78 and
Option 1 and 2 for your review.
We look forward to your orders via phone or email.
Many thanks and best regards,
Karen Ward, Europa Center: +44 (0)1751
431773<tel:%2B44%20%280%291751%C2%A0431773> email:
enquiries@europa-aircraft.com<mailto:enquiries@europa-aircraft.com>
Bud Yerly, Custom Flight Creations: 813-653-4989<tel:813-653-4989>
email: budyerly@msn.com<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
Europa Tech support.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
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on>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Motor glider Wings |
Frans,
Allowances have been made and the new socket lines up with the old. New
pins for the short wings are necessary. Spar cup concerns are not a
problem. I'll do a group email and show the "How I did it" drawings.
Regards,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Frans Veldman<mailto:frans@privatepilots.nl>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Motor glider Wings
<frans@privatepilots.nl<mailto:frans@privatepilots.nl>>
On 10/27/2011 11:58 PM, Neville Eyre wrote:
> The XS lift pins are [ from memory ] 1/2'' lower than the Classic.
When I was building my Europa I understood that it is possible to have
both sets of wings and swap them as desired, and I anticipated for
doing
that in the future.
Is this still possible? From your description it looks like you have
to
relocate the lift sockets???? So you can't have both sets of wings and
interchange them?
Frans
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Message 4
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Please refer to
www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/> and
select accessories and tips. The information on alternate Mod 66 on the
website is years old and I have preferred doing the installation using
this method over the Mod 66 in the past as the hump of additional
structure on the door makes the seal fitting more trying, and the work
required to install it is significantly easier. If you have any
concerns with your skills, ability to fabricate, or have a desire to
stiffen your door, buy the Mod 66 kit and install it per the
instructions. Just make sure the shape of the door is where you want it
or the Mod 66 overlay will set your door permanently in the shape it was
when attached.
Notes:
Follow the guidance of Nev and others and get the doors to set properly.
It is a must to get the doors to fit right! The doors should close
with only light pressure to the door handle top to compress the seal and
the door handle will close on its own. Don't stop until it does. Then
fit the door strut using the Mod 66 or my Alternate Mod 66.
I have a jig in my shop made from a thin piece of metal with holes
spaced at 8 inches that is the door strut compressed length. Simply
install a bolt or drill bit through the upper stud hole and attach the
angle bracket with stud and plastic clip, then set the door closed.
Prep the area where the bracket will set. Note a small shim of metal or
clay can be used to set the fore and aft position from scratching
against the rear door jamb. Use some foam or clay to hold the jig in
place until the 5 minute or super glue dries which will temporarily hold
the angle bracket in place. To open the door, from the other side pull
the bolt or bit out of the fuselage rebate, open the door and then affix
the bracket with a small screw such as a #4 wood screw. Attach the
extended strut and check the extended door opening and then do the other
side. Check the doors are even (onlookers would be upset if the doors
weren't exactly the same( use the screw feature to adjust a bit). Then
remove the jig and strut attach brackets. Remove the parts, clean off
the temporary glue and secure in place with Redux. Check the
installation the next day and if all is well, add two layers of glass
over the bracket base with flox and fill, sand, prime and paint. Lasts
forever. No more humpy door tops any longer. The struts do not need
extra pressure either as this is very light construction verses the
actual Mod 66.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Europa Tech Support
----- Original Message -----
From: Max Cointe<mailto:mcointe@free.fr>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 3:46 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: door warp
Hi Skip,
I think that the elevation of the corners of the doors comes from the
original struts positioning. Just applying the mod and change the way
the struts push on the doors when closed will solve for a large part.
You can effectively accelerate the process by placing heavy weights, but
this will be efficient on long term only if you apply the mod. Few hours
of job during winter's bad MTO J
Cheers,
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400 hours
De : owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] De la part de Neville
Eyre
Envoy=E9 : jeudi 27 octobre 2011 22:53
=C0 : europa-list@matronics.com
Objet : Re: Europa-List: door warp
Hi Skip,
Weights [ shot or sand bag] on the door corners will in time recover
the doors to original shape, I have also used a luggage strap around the
fuselage with local wood [ 3'' long 1'' x 2''] intensifiers to do the
same job.
Taking the gas struts off will speed up the recovery, but take care if
you have the plastic ball joint sockets as they can only be sprung off a
few times before they come too loose.
Leave the plane out in the sun, let it come back slowly, could take
weeks !
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: egp8111 <egp8111@aol.com>
To: europa-list <europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 15:55
Subject: Europa-List: door warp
<egp8111@aol.com<mailto:egp8111@aol.com>> My mono wheel has been sitting
up for an extended period in a warm climate and the top rear corners of
the doors have warped up slightly from where the gas struts pushed on
them. (orginal strut position). Anyone have any suggestions on how I
might get the corners back down to the orginal shape ? thanksSkip
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Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Motor glider Wings |
Frans and others,
Attached above is a drawing of how to install a wing rigging alignment
device to replace the spar cups. It just attaches to the back of the
fuselage.
Here is an excerpt from an email I sent to another Classic Owner (mono
wheel) from my tech support file from a while ago:
There are a couple of things to look at with adapting the MG Wings to
the Classic.
First, The Classic has the wing lift points set by the owner.
Measurements vary somewhat from plane to plane as we have differences in
builder abilities. The leading edge of the glider wing is narrow and
the molded in attach point is smaller so the forward and aft sockets may
not line up acceptably with the glider wing lift pin attach points.
Second, the fuselage must have Mod 52 to structurally take the stress
of the motor glider wing loads. (If the Classic wings do not have Mod
74 then that must be done also for your own safety.) Your task is
easier if the Mod 52 is not done. If the mod 52 is in, just try the
wing rig first and see if the attach points will align, see below.
Third, should the glider wing fore or aft attachment points not line up
with the glider wing, don't fret:
I have found it very easy to just move the attach points of the Classic
fuselage to the glider wing position and simply remove and replace the
pins in the Classic wing. The reason it is easier, as it seems to mean
changing 8 hard points, is that it is technically easy, it will make
rigging and de-rigging of the plane a snap and assure structural
strength. The Classic wing is very easy to remove the pin attach
points, and frankly I replace the aluminum one inch strips with two inch
strips making a stiffer attach point as in the XS model. The socket
attachments are quick to change also. Just unbolt and gently heat and
remove, then grind the glass down. I pull out the aluminum wing root
plates and replace them, as it only takes a few minutes with a dust mask
and a grinder to remove. Total time with a die grinder and 40 grit
paper is about 2 hours to remove the wing attachments and 2 hours to
completely replace the aluminum plates with all the parts made up and on
hand. It takes me 8 hours to remove the fuselage sockets and the glass
and wood spacers on the fuselage side and replace them to new. Like I
said, I remove the aluminum plates imbedded in the fuselage if the holes
are just too far off. Hopefully you don't have to. If I have to, I
grind away at the skin over the aluminum plates in the side after the
glass is removed and allowing the now warm metal from grinding to detach
from the inside skin, or by using a bit of heat from a soldering gun and
I apply a prying force to the edge of the plate. I make another
aluminum plate and install. 8-12 hours to remove and replace plus cure
time. So a couple of days and you have a pristine fuselage side ready
for a perfect alignment of both wings.
This is not a daunting task for me, but I am more familiar than the
average guy. If your original builder did a precise job of aligning the
pins on the Classic, you may have no problem or only a problem with
aligning the front or the rear glider lift pin. I have found one of
them to be just a bit high leaving the upper skin very close to the pin
attach point with the glider wing perfectly aligned. We just did a
Classic and I am uncomfortably close to the top of the attachment area
on the rear pin support, instead of centered in the pin area. If it
were my plane I would have centered the pins and moved the fuselage
sockets, but I tend to prefer to shoot for the optimum, and my clients
are wanting the quick solution.
Don't let a bit of glass work over a few days or a week keep you from
having the joy of a soaring airplane. I can't tell you how enjoyable
the motor glider is. I hope you saw my article in the Europa flyer on
cross country in the MG. If not send me an email and I will send a .pdf
copy. The mono with motor glider wing is carrying a hundred pounds of
extra wing weight so make sure your rubber block is new as your normal
touchdowns will need to absorb the extra mass.
----- Original Message -----
From: Frans Veldman<mailto:frans@privatepilots.nl>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Motor glider Wings
<frans@privatepilots.nl<mailto:frans@privatepilots.nl>>
On 10/27/2011 11:58 PM, Neville Eyre wrote:
> The XS lift pins are [ from memory ] 1/2'' lower than the Classic.
When I was building my Europa I understood that it is possible to have
both sets of wings and swap them as desired, and I anticipated for
doing
that in the future.
Is this still possible? From your description it looks like you have
to
relocate the lift sockets???? So you can't have both sets of wings and
interchange them?
Frans
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avigator?Europa-List>
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